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I have the manual but I cant get a download on this forum. So here goes the narrative.
Id ignore the two marks on the back of the cam gears as mention in previous post. That is for cam replacement.
There's a small hole on the front cam timing belt gear. Line this hole up with a mark visible through the hole That is when the cams are TDC. A hint the mark is at the 12 o'clock position if your looking straight at the timing cam gear.
Next turn pistons over till the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Your done!
Its easier to remove all plugs and spin engine over by hand. I also slide the crank pulley on to do this. You have to slid it back off to put the timing belt covers on when finished putting belt on. You could put the cover on to to use the TDC mark that is on this cover and align it to the crank pulley. But I dont, I just put a PLASTIC STRAW in the #1 cylinder and watch it come up as I turn engine over by hand. When it stop going up its at TDC.
Your working on a 5S-FE? A 2.2 liter?
Keep all slack out of the right side of belt when installing timing belt on water pump gear and cam gear. Another trick is to purposely set the crank gear off one tooth backwards, this will give you some slack to get the belt on. Then turn crank one tooth forward to TDC it should tighten the belt enough before the cam gear moves off of TDC.
The best way is to put the coolant in real slow making sure the electric fans come on before you slam the hood shut and test drive. The temp gauge should be normal. Keep adding fluid as it warms up, it usually takes 5-7min to open the thermostat.
The problem comes from the air trapped in the lower hose of radiator. The thermostat does not open and let the water enter the engine. The hot coolant temps are not hitting the thermostat, only the air is. The coolant wont circulate. It will just boil over and out the fill hole on the top of the engine.
Anyway, here's the update. I haven't had my car for 9 days now. Apparently, new problems came up. First they found a "leaky water pump" after 5 days, then 2 days later, they added a "bad alternator" to the list. Just can't imagine what the total will be, IF I ever get my car back.
Still, all I want to know is what would cause the bolts to break? I bought this car used in October 2007. It is driven to & from work 4 days a week and a trip or 2 out for groceries. It is not driver over the speed limit, on bad roads or abused in any manor. Did I get a "lemon"? If I did, it's too late now. Does anyone know if Toyota has a web site for questions? Like I said, I just need to know "Why it broke".
Again, Thank you for any information anyone can shine on this subject. jodi4
Those things like water pump and alternator must be removed anyways to get to the broken bolts. And your battery wasnt dead when you broke down in the middle of the street was it?
The warranty wont cover negligent repairs, someone probably tightened the steering pump bolts to tight or left them loose..Ask for the broken bolts back.and start from there.
I would check the duct going into the engine from air filter. Small leaks can throw off mixture settings. They crack and can be found by squeezing the duct while its running.
Dropping down to low is an indication of a vacumm leak too. The size of the leak would be large though, like the hose that goes to the PCV system. The air leaking into this line will cause it to run fast in park. Then when its in gear the added load of the gears and the too lean mixture will cause it to run at a low idle.
I think the 1996 has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) at the end of the valve cover on the back of the engine on a V6. On the 4 cylinder it is somewhere on the valve cover too.
You replaced the throttle switch and fixed vacuum leak.. And the duct has no cracks. That's good.
What is the throttle switch getting in regards to voltage? A small continuity tester will verify it is getting something. Id also disconnect the oxygen sensor connector and run the car at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes. It could have an effect on idle speed too.
Best of luck to you too!
Now another noise since I picked it up from repair place: clunking (popping) sound on cold start when I mildly apply brakes.
After the first braking, I can drive and stop and it never is heard again... until I turn off the car and start it again.
Car is only under warrantly next week. Help!!! Note: The repair folks are not Toyoto dealership -- just a more convenient dealership nearby. Thank you very much. J.
I am presuming because the lights come on with the headlights that it is not the bulbs. I am thinking it might be a fuse. How can I check this pls?
Take the bulb out, and look closely at the filament, you'll most likely find one broken.
Pay particular attention to the way the bulb goes into the socket, it matters which way it goes in.....you don't want to get it turned 180 degrees. You'll notice two nibs on the side brass of the bulb base, one is closer to the end than the other, and if you look at the socket you'll see that one of the nib slots is deeper than the other.
I think back to someone with an earlier post. They wanted the car but the insurance company wanted to total it. So the insurance company sold them the car along with the settlement. The people got to keep their car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It only intermittently, usually on initial startup, makes a clunk sound and it's hard to tell if it is from the front passenger area near the wheel or perhaps more under the center of the car.
I left it at a Toyoto dealership repair place for three days so they could test drive it, let it set for a while, and repeat the process. They checked it over and can't find anything and say it's safe to drive.
Anyone heard of something similar -- or have an idea what this MIGHT be?
Have new tires. Have new rear brakes.
I've personally never heard it in any of my previous or current Camrys, but my '90 Sable with ABS made that sound.
1. battery light
2. Low Oil Pressure Warning Light
3. Check engine light.
The ABS light is on for a few seconds and then goes off.
Now when I crank the engine only the check engine light is still on and the other two lights are off. Does this indicate problem with the oil pressure and battery? Also since the engine check light is on.. what is the likely reason for it?
You will need to find out why your check engine light is on. Go to an autoparts chain and have them read the error numbers from the computer for you. They'll normally do this free of charge.
Take those error codes, and write them down. You'll then search the internet with your model/make/yr, and let's see what the error messages are.
Thanks
Tim
Could be bad gasket, or something cracked....but you can't tell till you take it apart.
You don't say what kind of shape the vehicle is in other than this problem, but I wouldn't assume at all that you have to replace the engine.
The pump originally caused the engine to overheat. It also could have compromised the head gasket depending what you did when it overheated. He clearly missed the the problem.
The radiator has no moving parts so unless its leaking there is nothing wrong with it. A clogged radiator will overheat at highway speeds if your fluid is always leaking. A leak lets air in and then it rust shut not allowing water to past through
I would sue him for his incompetence. I would go to court and ask for compression readings in court. Why didnt he check to see if the fans come on when he changed the radiator. If the pump was good when it first overheated it would not overheat again A water pump slowly leaks water out the seal on its shaft, and can only be detected if you get under the car and look for a small trail of water coming from under the timing belt cover. If the overheat broke the pump too, he should have caught it then.He clearly missed the problem.
Get a compression test at a lube place and document it. A compression test gives you the condition of the engine.
When you get the compression results back it will show a clyinder with a 100PSI -125 PSI . It is a indicator of a leaking head gasket. The water is getting sucked out the exhaust while you drive, causing it to overheat every time your finish a 30- 40 mile trip. This should have been done on the first overheat. A car should not overheat again when you have the car in for the problem in the first place, He owes you a new engine if hes says its bad. Unless he can document the good compression readings on the original receipt.
Also the radiator will produce small air bubbles from the bad cylinder if you remove the cap and look inside. Do it while its warming up or your gonna get a face full of hot scolding water.Tell us what the results are.Good Luck!
The brake hose on my 94 Camry burst. After I replaced it the fitting leaks where the steel line meets the hose. It's not cross threaded and once it began leaking I tightened it more than I felt comfortable with and it still leaks. I've not run into this before where the fitting screws in properly and the junction leaks.
Here are pictures of the fitting/junction
http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leakingfittingkp5.jpg
Anybody have suggestions/explanations/ideas?
Thanks