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It will vary by geography and labor rates, but I would suspect it would be about an hour of time. I would expect to be quoted 75 to 150 bucks or so, if you drive it out the door without them fixing what was wrong. Would obviously vary by whether an independent garage, a chain, dealership, specialty shop, etc.
the hose has three holes one that goes in this black box, one goes into the throttle body and the bottom hole, im not sure what it is but its this small black box that looks like a coolant box. does anyone know what that small box is?
- 15A EFI fuse
- 5 A Ign fuse
In order for the fuel pump to get power, both the CIR OPN Relay must be energized, and the EFI Relay must be energized. They get turned on by the ECM engine computer.
Check with a voltmeter, to see if you have power at the fuel pump connector. If power, then your fuel pump should be pumping. If not, check the relays.
Both the relays are similarly wired internally, but are slight different. Pin 1 and 2 are the primary, Pin 3 and 5 are the secondary. When measured with an OHM meter, there should be some resistance between 1 and 2, which is the coil winding. If it is infinite resistance, the coil is bad.
When the primary is NOT energized, there should be infinite resistance between pin 3 and 5.
Now energize the primary by grounding pin 2, and applying 12 volts to pin 1. This applies voltage to the coil, which energizes the magnet, and now pin 3 should be connected to pin 5, and you should have zero resistance between 3 and 5. If the relay is not working correctly, replace it.
If the relays check out as okay, but are not being turned on by the computer, then you need to figure out why that is the case. Could be the computer is bad, or could be that there is some other error condition that the computer is seeing which is causing it to WANT to turn off the fuel pump.
Let me know what you find with your testing.
In my case, the dash light always comes on, but when you try to engage, it may or may not do so. If it's not going to, the light blinks 5 times and shuts off. Turning off the car resets it, and it may or may not work next time.
This problem has been getting more frequent over the past few years, to the point that where it used to fail infrequently, it now only works infrequently. The Toyota garage has looked at it but has no clue, they say I would have to "come it with it not working" -- and how likely is THAT to happen? Intermittent stuff never goes wrong when you're near the dealership!
If this were a simpler vehicle, I'd say it sounds like it might be some weak relay that could be replaced, or maybe even a leaky vacuum hose. It seems to be more likely to work, for instance, if I'm already at speed and on level ground... as opposed to accelerating or climbing a hill. But this isn't a simple vehicle, it's a Camry. How is it that all of those peripheral lights and switches can possibly be suspected in something like this??
Just to verify, is the voltage change 0 to 1.1, or 0 to 11? It appeared that you meant 1.1V, but there was no decimal, just a space between the 1s.
And as I read the diagrams (I've downloaded a repair manual), it looks like the Speed Sensor is located behind the speedometer. Is that correct?
You have a cruise control computer, that takes a number of inputs (speed sensor, parking brake switch, brake switch, park/neutral switch, clutch switch, switches on the cruise control, etc). Any one of them not working correctly, could cause your cruise control to know that it shouldn't be on. If you can prove that all of the input sensors are working and eliminated as the possible cause of the problem, then you may end up with the cruise control computer itself is bad. I'd suspect any number of the sensors/switches first, though.
Start anywhere you want with any of the switches or sensors.
It should initially be closed, prohibiting the radiator from cooling down the engine, until the engine gets up to the correct operating temperature. Then it begins to open, allowing the hot water out to the radiator to get cooled down, and some of the cooler water back into the engine, thereby keeping the engine from overheating.
The thermostat should open only when it gets to temperature, and then only enough to keep the engine at temperature. Open too much, and engine runs cold.
How many pounds lower than the other cylinders?
If you're very handy, buy a plug compatible replacement online and swap it out yourself.
Is there an adhesive I can use to fix the radio buttons, 3 of them are falling off.
The battery is 3 months new. I took my car to Advance Auto parts to do the electrical check. The battery condition is good. The alternator has no problem. The starter is creaking normal. The drain is about 0.12A which shows "pass".
The problem is still there.
I changed all four spark plugs and the wires for spark plugs. Also, I clean the fuel injector.
The problem is still there.
I checked the voltage of the battery in the morning before I started my engine, and it shows 12.7. However, I still have the problem to start the engine.
It engine will start, but I have to turn my key 3~6 times.
What is the problem with my car?
Hang your voltmeter on the main battery connectors to the starter, at the starter. See what voltage you actually get at the starter, when you are trying to start it.
Is it the integration relay?
If you turn the switch to the SWITCHED position, then it is controlled by the integration relay. One of the inputs to the integration relay, is a wire that comes from all of the 4 door switches.
I'd suggest you focus first on the dome light. Get a voltmeter, and verify that you have +12v (actually it would be more like 13-14 volts), on one side of the bulb. Measure with one probe of your voltmeter on metal ground somewhere like underneath the dash, and the other probe on the end of the bulb that is connected to the fuse.
Assuming proper voltage, then verify that when you flip to the ON position, that the bulb lights. If it doesn't, then either the bulb is bad, or the grounding wire for dome lights isn't connecting real good to metal.
mechanic told me its not airflow censer
646 721 8900
Braking and then engine stalling, could be less vacuum going to the engine. The brakes have a vacuum booster. Its stores engine vacuum while the engine runs to help ease the brakes pressure required to apply the brakes. I guess this could cause the engine to stall too if defective.
A test of booster is to start the car with the brakes applied. The pedal should move if it is working right.I think you have to push the brakes about 10 times first to bleed off the old vacuum before you start the car.
relays run in or about 35$ $45.
module about 120$
Things I have done to try to fix this. Taken off the EGR and try to clean it. It was so dirty I replaced with new EGR. After replacing the EGR it has only done the same problem 2 times again but not as bad as before replacement of EGR. However it still did it 2 times after replacing EGR which indicates to me there is another problem at hand here. The car also has a new radiator, starter, battery, alternator, thermostat, air filter, belts all, and a new radiator cap. Please advise and help me as to if someone out there on the forums knows what this problem is or has experienced a similar problem and what can be done to fix this problem. Thanks very much for you help.
Dave