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Comments
In a nutshell: Days prior to taking the vehicle into the dealership to find out the source of the rattling noise, they (the dealership) had changed the oil and completed a routine general inspection of the vehicle without any issues. Two weeks later the rattling noise appeared. I took it into the dealership immediately to have the issue inspected. When I picked it up, they said they weren't sure what the source of the problem was. They told me they replaced a piece and that the warranty covered it. The problem seemed to dissapear, until somewhere between 3-5 thousand miles later the rattling noise came back. Ironically enough, a couple of days after the noise came back and I was on my way to the dealership to get an oil change and get the rattling noise looked into, the engine busted in the middle of the freeway! After it was towed away and inspected by a dealership, they told me it was missing oil. The service dept. said it was my fault, not theirs and that they would not cover the cost for an engine replacement. Mazda also disclaimed any fault.
I am becoming aware of several other Mazda 6 owners who have had the same experience. Racefan, what are you currently doing to resolve your situation?
In a nutshell: Days prior to taking the vehicle into the dealership to find out the source of the rattling noise, they (the dealership) had changed the oil and completed a routine general inspection of the vehicle without any issues. Two weeks later the rattling noise appeared. I took it into the dealership immediately to have the issue inspected. When I picked it up, they said they weren't sure what the source of the problem was. They told me they replaced a piece and that the warranty covered it. The problem seemed to dissapear, until somewhere between 3-5 thousand miles later the rattling noise came back. Ironically enough, a couple of days after the noise came back and I was on my way to the dealership to get an oil change and get the rattling noise looked into, the engine busted in the middle of the freeway! After it was towed away and inspected by a dealership, they told me it was missing oil. The service dept. said it was my fault, not theirs and that they would not cover the cost for an engine replacement. Mazda also disclaimed any fault.
I am becoming aware of several other Mazda 6 owners who have had the same experience. What are you currently doing to resolve your situation?
Make sure you keep detailed notes and dates of everything you did, who u spoke with, and what was done. I do every time I go into the dealership. I keep a log/diary on my computer, how many miles I drove between problems (as I had to bring mine back after the new engine was installed as they did a bad install, oil was leaking everywhere the next day) and keep every piece of paper the dealership gives me because if you go to court you can use it to refresh your memory.
My guess that it's a bad PCV valve. It's a common issue with the 3.0L V6.
Try and start the car with the headlights on, if they dim considerably (or go out completely), then it's the battery. You can also take the battery to an auto parts store that can test it to see if it's the problem.
I doubt it's the alternator, since the engine actually has to be running for it to affect the electrical system. My next guess, after the battery, would be the starter.
price. plus i have to have it installed i live by howard city
thanx
I hope your problem has been fixed.
I started hearing a noise in my Marza6i as yours. In my case, the problem was related to the speed and it started knocking when reach 60m/h.
My problem has been fixed. It was the plastic tray, under the engine that was loose and tapped to the road, making a really weird noise.
Good luck,
Andcal
how is it going for your car?
You gotta check out this great website to find a good engine. My Mazda6 engine blew because of a stuck PCV valve, and I found a great engine on this site. I'm from Michigan also, but I found my low mileage 3.0L engine in South Dakota for only $900 + $250 shipping.
Oh, here is the website: www.car-part.com. It has a great search engine for salvage parts for any year and model of car...and shows results by price or distance, whichever you choose. Contact numbers (usually toll-free) and websites for the yards are right there for your convenience. A lot of yards are connected to this, so you'll get plenty of results! Good luck!
Thankssss!!
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/collgd/mz6_0304_cg.pdf
So..., I see there are 4 (four) individual part numbers for the sensors. Which P/N is for the one NOT mounted on the engine, but actually in the exhaust on the driver's side pipe. I've got the engine out and it's staring me in the face!
ALSO, can I use a universal four-wire sensor for this application?
Thanks to any who can help
Have rather a large issue I was after some help with...
Last week, engine started to rattle then smoke, so I stopped and pulled over to find it was out of oil (I check it fortnightly).I filled it up and then drove it home.The next day on the way to the garage it just stopped.
Since then the RAC and mechanics have looked at it and say the engine is irreparable.
I have had it for 3 months and 1 week - the used car warranty? 3 months...
Any suggestions about how to go about headhunting for my money? Anyone else heard of these issues at 50,000miles, so I have more ammunition when I go in?
Cheers.
Nick (Britain)
Hmmmm....you're a race car driver...own a sporty car....engineer ...and yet you claim you are smarter then the manufacturer who built it....yeah, I can see why they didn't want to cover it. So, since the mfgr proved you abused it, that makes the dealer "dirt bag's" Yeah, ok, that makes total sense.
If abuse was proved, you lose. Apparently that's what happened. If you can prove you did not abuse it, which since you are sooo smart, you should have done.
Thanks :confuse:
problem #1...if you had the Mazda dealer fix it, they would have used the corrected part. A local mechanic would have used a replacement part....
And it now a year later same thing is happing again took it autozone
Autozone does not have the correct engine codes all the time....
What ever car you buy, or own, always bring it to the manufacturers dealer to resolve issues, especially because of the complex nature of the computer systems....
I tried reproducing when at idle, I can hear it if I rev up slightly to 1000 rpm. if I increase the rpm, the tapping sound is gone. Is this normal of this engine, or should I be worried and take it in for service? I did notice on my oil change receipt from the dealer that they are using bulk 5w30 oil. The manual recommends 5w20 oil. Could the
thicker 5w30 oil be causing this issue?
A simpler solution is to just get the oil changes done at a dealer, at least during the warranty. I am not saying that what Mazda has done is right or fair, but getting the oil changes at the dealer (and on time, of course) would avoid all these sort of hassles. The cost of doing this is minimal...maybe $10-20 extra per oil change over doing it yourself.
I don't agree with the Mazda schedule that has me changing oil every 4 months (which is generally about 3000 miles), but during the warranty period I am following this, just to avoid any potential hassles. After the warranty is over, I'll go to a 6 mo. schedule or go to synthetic and change once per year.
Not sure what they consider to be adequate evidence, though.
You said: I had done my own oil cahnges and they said they was the problem and refused service.
Did they say this because they felt you did not have the evidence to show that the oil changes were done or because they thought the oil changes had not been performed correctly?
What exactly was the problem that you had with the engine, anyway?