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2009 Toyota Camry

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Comments

  • kevlightkevlight Member Posts: 1
    If you can get a Japanese made Camry maybe you should, my 2009 Camry SE ([non-permissible content removed] Experience) was built in Kentucky and it has a persistent rattle in the dashboard on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. I've taken it in twice to be fixed and the best they can offer is that plastic on plastic. I expect more from a $30,000 car. If I could have done it over again I wouldn't have purchased the car. Other things that I don't like about it: the "heated" seats only stay on for a minute at a time, the car shuts itself off after a couple minutes when started with the remote starter, the radio shuts off immediately after the car is shut off, the charger does not work when the car is off. If Toyota wants to buy this vehicle from back me, I would dump it in a heart beat.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Try a different dealer re the dash rattle. There are TSBs out that the service dept. can use to fix the problem.

    By the way, I have had a Japan-built Rav that had rattles. I got it fixed under warranty (there was a TSB out for it). Just saying that you can't say that Japan built = perfection. It is mainly in the original design.
  • exlerexler Member Posts: 129
    Any opinion on the Yokahoma Avid Touring S--dealer here sells for $90 with balancing and all? I think they are UTOG 600 rated. It looks like TIRE-RACK had good reports.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Your answer may be the last words in your last sentence. In a heart beat =Chevy. Seriously, on all the cars I have owned with heated seats they all stay on until I shut it off. Most were either 2 or 3 settings for heat so yours shouldn't shut off after a minute. Also same on remote starters. They all stayed on about 10 min. before shutting off with the option of 2nd start either after the 10 min for another 10 min. or if used during the orginal 10 min. whatever time was left would reset to 10 min. As far as radio goes that may have been an option that you don't have. Don't know what you are refering to by charger. Sounds like you have some problems with your car that a good dealer should be able to fix as they sound like they are all repeatable problems that can be duplicated everytime. The problem is finding a good dealer. I think Toyota is going down the road GM traveled in the 80's where they sold so many cars they couldn't keep up with them and sent them out the door hoping the dealer would find and fix any problems before the customers found them. I think GM has fixed their old problems and now build some of the best cars out there and Toyota may or may not wake up before they aquire the reputation of building shoddy cars. Even in these down times of most car companies sales being down 40% or more I see GM outsold Toyota by 20,000 cars in March. Its to bad all car companies are suffering from the greed of Wall Street and the Insurance companies. I sure hope GM doesn't have to resort to filing Bankrupsy as I'm afraid we will all end up in a depression from our current recession and millions more end up on welfare or unemployed.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electric seats on my Camry, but my other vehicles with electric seats stay on until they are turned off. Did you have the dealer look at the seats, I'm betting something is defective with them.

    I just pulled out the electrical schematics for the heated seats. There is no timer circuitry or anything like that, which would turn them off. The regular illuminated seat heater switch is to turn them on and off. There are two little unmarked things that look like a mini-switch which is in the seat cushion (two on the passenger seat, two on the drivers seat), which aren't clear what they are. They may be pressure switches, or thermal switches. For instance if it was a pressure switch, perhaps it won't turn on unless someone is sitting in the seat. If it was a thermal switch, it could make connection only when it's cold, and when it heats up it opens up to keep the seat from overheating.

    I'd take it back to the dealership, they'll fix it for you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    These days EVERYTHING gets counted insofar as fuel conservation is considered.

    These days most seat heaters either have a thermistor for controlling the seat heating level or they have two thermostatic switches. The heating elements get MAXIMUM power only until the desired/designed surface temperature is reached. In the case of the thermostatic switches once the design temperature is reached the system goes into 1/4 power mode and even that will be shut off if the seat surface temperature rises above the temperature setpoint of the second switch.

    With the thermistor once the design temperature is reached the power is simply switched on and off electronically to hold the seat at the design temperature.

    The remote starter "feature" is perfectly understandable.

    I've never owner a car wherein the radio didn't shut off when I turned the ignition completely off, didn't leave it in the accessory position.

    Charger = power to the cigarette lighter plug...SOP.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..or thermal switches..."

    Thermostatic switches, when the design temperature is reached one of these opens to put the heating element into 1/4 power mode. The second switch has an "overtemp" (discomforting) setpoint and therefore depowers the heater altogether. If/as the seat cools the switch will turn the power will come back on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I've never owner a car wherein the radio didn't shut off when I turned the ignition completely off, didn't leave it in the accessory position.
    Lots of cars have this feature where a lot of the power is available for up to about 10 min. after turning the car off and goes off when a door is opened. You need to brooden your horizens as I had a number of cars with this feature.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Yes, for some 20 years now windows and headlights remain powered until the driver's door is opened, but I have never known (noticed??) that the radio did/does.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    If windows remained powered you can bet the radio does too and I have had a couple cars where even the wipers work too. Headlights on all cars work even if key isn't in the ign. Hence, why so many car batteries run down. :cry:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Yes, if I turn the headlights right back on then they definitely come on.

    The point is that the window power delay and the headlight delay seem to be the same, turn the ignition off, the power stays on...open the driver's door, power off.

    Some vehicles have a "like" system but if you open the driver's door first and then turn off the ignition the headlights remain on.
  • bourne1bourne1 Member Posts: 20
    i've got some deep scratches on my windshield due to my wiper blade not in place. it was raining heavily and i had no choice but to keep it on throughout the night.
    i haven't talked to my dealership yet. i just wanted to know if there's any reliable DIY scratch removal stuff that anyone ever used?
    :cry::cry::cry:
    thanks in advance
  • jbhansenjbhansen Member Posts: 20
    I'm hoping someone here can help. Toyota customer service is tracking this down too.

    I can't seem to program the door lock/unlock using instructions on page 45 of the owners manual. I wanted to set the doors to lock at 12+ mph and couldn't do it. Neither could my sales rep or the service consultant. The guys in the garage had to use "Scan Tool" to set the option. Now, the doors still lock when I shift out of park, and again at 12+ mph (if I unlock the door manually). How do I turn off the "shift out of park" option? Are the instructions in the owners manual wrong?
  • jbhansenjbhansen Member Posts: 20
    I found the answer to my own question over at Toyota Nation...
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    That's great! Can you share with us for others who may have the same questions?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I'm afraid you're out of luck. Sounds like replacement windshield time.
  • charliehccharliehc Member Posts: 1
    There are shops that fix SMALL cracks and dents, but yours would result in a large distortion of the windshield. You are in for a new windshield. I had the same problem and found that, living in Florida, the rubber in the blades just doesn't last. Couple that with tree sap and bird droppings, and a brutal sun, I now change them every year or so before the glass gets scratched. I have a 2009 Camry and a 2002 Tundra, both with the same problem.

    Hope this helps.
  • bourne1bourne1 Member Posts: 20
    thanks guys
    how much does a new windshield cost ? i know my insurance covers windshield but i don't know if that increases my premium
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Most policies don't raise the cost due to a windshield and I believe states like Florida require the insurance company to replace them without any cost to the owner.
  • exlerexler Member Posts: 129
    Let us know if insurance covers that type of damage--I do not know-- it will be interesting to find out.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Replacing a windshield can cost anywhere from $300 to $700 on your car depending on who does it and what windshield you use. (factory supplied vs aftermarket, tinting, etc all come into play.)

    As for affecting your premiums.......probably not......unless you did this once already in the past three years.

    Here's what to do: phone three autoglass guys in the yellowpages; tell them you're shopping for a glass replacement guy who'll pay the biggest portion of your deductible on your insurance (that's the 3-500 YOU pay out of pocket, no matter WHAT the total is.)

    You MAY find a guy who'll pay the whole thing, in which case your new windshield costs you nothing.

    Good luck!
    Mike
  • santocssantocs Member Posts: 54
    I just came back from a long vacation and somebody has put 3 to 4 long scratches on my car :(. Any idea how much paint work costs? I have it covered under my insurance but will my insurance premium go up after this?
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hey, Santocs....sorry about your luck.
    "How much does it cost to paint a car" is another one of those "How long is a piece of string"-type questions.
    Depends who you ask....and who does the job. You could probably get quotes from$100 to $1000 depending on whether they a) are good, b) are hungry, c) "see you coming".

    Ask a couple of local car dealers (any brand) "Who does your touch-up work?"

    Drive the car to three local paint shops and let them have a look at it. Get quotes....pick the one that fits your budget.....AND the one that makes you comfortable about their work. (Ask to see some samples while you're at their shop.)

    You probably DON'T want to put this through your insurance, since the cost will probably be about equal to your deductible anyway.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    In my area MAACO does great work at 1/2 the cost of a dealer. I have found on 2 cars that I had paint extimates done on all the body shops were within 50 bucks of each other but MAACO was 1/2 and I took the chance and it turned out great. Not to say that will be true in every local.
  • santocssantocs Member Posts: 54
    Hi,

    I was on vacation and somebody has deliberately scratched my car on one side. Has anybody put the side moldings to avoid scratches on the car? is it necessary to go to a dealership itself?

    And the scratches are around 1 feet long. any idea how much would be the cost to get it repaired? they just repaint it or do a lot of stuff? there is not dent.. just scratches.
  • msbr743msbr743 Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know what the clips are that hold the bottom bumper on the '09 SE? Apparently mine have popped out on one side & I'm not sure where to get replacements. I'm sure if I went to the dealership they would charge an arm & leg to replace them. Just wondering if it's something I can p-up at an Auto Zone or something.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd just go to the dealership, they may replace them for free under warranty....unless it's obvious you hit a curb or something.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I agree with kiawah. You can go crazy trying to find the right size aftermarket clips that will fit exactly.

    The clips may cost a dollar or so each (at most), so it's still pocket change. (Granted, Toyota probably paid 2 cents each for their manufacture.)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
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    See you there!
  • megaklfmegaklf Member Posts: 2
    I have a 09 Camry and have been having problems with the molded plastic panels throughout the car. There is light spots showing up every where on the panels. (door, plastic cover below the sides of the seats, etc.)
    The car has been to the dealership 2 other times getting these panels replaced. We are now going back the third time for more spots appearing.
    Has anyone else had a problem with the interior plastic pieces?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What color is your interior?
  • megaklfmegaklf Member Posts: 2
    It has the tan interior.
  • chris789chris789 Member Posts: 37
    I have a 1996 camry with hubcaps and the paint is flaking off them and am planning on getting a new camry and am deciding if the alloy wheels would be easier to take care of. I've been reading that the alloy needs to be cleaned often otherwise the break dust collects on them and is hard to remove. Anybody that has alloy wheels how often or after how many miles do they need to be cleaned? I'm leaning towards the hubcaps as they hold up pretty well and other than running it through the car wash every couple of months still look pretty good.

    ~Chris
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I have alloy wheels on my 2004 Camry (also on my '98 Nissan Frontier) and have found that regular washing, at least every month or two, with regular car soap will keep the wheels looking great. But you do have to wash them manually, a "touch-free" car wash (the only kind I use) won't do the job completely.

    With alloys, though, you have to be extra-careful when parallel parking -- you don't want to scrape those expensive wheels against a curb. Replacing hub caps is much cheaper.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    hubcaps? I thought those went out with the Model T. Seriously, buy 30K car and put $10 hubcaps on it. :sick:
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hi, Chris.

    There's very little extra maintenance involved with "mags", compared to the beauty you'll add and the pride and enjoyment you'll feel by having a great looking set of wheels on your car.

    The main advice I have for you today, is to check around with a few car accessory shops to see what is available from sources other than Toyota, or your dealer. You might be pleasantly surprised at the great variety of terrific looking wheels that are available from "aftermarket" manufacturers.

    A commonly used strategy is to order the car with the crappy stock wheels, then have a "wheel shop" put on the new wheels (and possibly even a new/different) set of tires.....and put the stock wheels back on in Winter (if you HAVE Winter where you are)....and/or when you sell the car eventually.

    Also, think about putting a larger diameter wheel on the car which, when combined with a lower profile tire, will really make your new car look sexy. Talk to the wheel/tire specialty guys about this. They'll know exactly what will 'clear' your fenders/wheel wells.

    Have fun shopping.......enjoy your new wheels (both kinds!).....and don't sweat the cleaning chores; you'll love fondling your new, sexy wheels!

    Cheers,
    Michael
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Alloy wheels are a little more work. Also, as the car gets older, an alloy wheel in the cold weather climates will develop a small leak were the wheel and the tire meet, causing you to loose tire pressure. Then, you have to have a tire place pull the wheel off, clean off the alloy, and remount it. I have experienced this many times after the cars is about 5-6 years old, and every time it costs $25. The tire shop confirmed that alloys tend to do this frequently compared to regular steel wheels with hubcaps. If I had it to do over again, I'd get steel with hubcaps.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Remember, Chris, stylish wheels don't always have to be alloy. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of very attractive styled STEEL wheels on the market. Some are chrome plated, others are anodized, lots of them are powder-coated.

    All of these finishes are no more maintenance-intensive than your box-stock Camry wheels.

    Even if you did go with uncoated alloys, the fact that you might have to take them off and get the tire/wheel contact portion buffed and lubed or siliconed would not be a bad thing. Can't imagine too many tires lasting more than five years under many conditions anyway, so you'd have the wheels and tires off the car for this process in any event........therefore, no real increase in "maintenance costs".

    Mike
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Even if you did go with uncoated alloys, the fact that you might have to take them off and get the tire/wheel contact portion buffed and lubed or siliconed would not be a bad thing. Can't imagine too many tires lasting more than five years under many conditions anyway, so you'd have the wheels and tires off the car for this process in any event........therefore, no real increase in "maintenance costs". \

    I respectfully disagree. About 2 years after I had new tires put on, one of the alloys had corrosion again and needed to be removed, cleaned, and remounted. It happened again around a year later - not sure if it was the same wheel or not. My tire guy said this is common with older alloys in the north (salted roads in the winter). This is a 10 year old car. It definitely is more maintenance cost vs. my steel wheels that have never had to be remounted. One of these was 12 years old, the other 9. Granted, it is not much more, but it is more.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Since about 1984 I have used nothing but alloy wheels, most often BBS, and I have NEVER had a case as you describe.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Consider yourself lucky! :)
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    In the case of GM I believe they clear coat all their specialized wheels which does away with most problems. You may want to check the manufacturer or maybe the body shop at the dealer.
  • carlandcarland Member Posts: 2
    Just like to add that my wife just bought a 2009 Camry LE 2 days ago and has eexperience the back and leg pains. She had no such issues with the 2008 Sienna.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Get yourself a good cushion to put behind your back or you'll go lame.

    I use one of those foam "horse collar" cushions designed to go around your neck while riding in planes (or cars) and just put the whole thing behind the lower half of my back while driving our 07 SE.

    Works great!

    Mike
  • carlandcarland Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip Mike. She tried the cushion idea today and much improved. Thanks.
  • meekawalmeekawal Member Posts: 1
    Hi! just bought a 2009 toyota camry in feb. I like the car but what a bear to park in certain parking spots!....Is it me or what? I noticed that there is no way to see the center of the hood and you have to "wing it" to park so i am assuming that this is why i am having such a problem. does anyone else notice this?
  • lavelilaveli Member Posts: 12
    Hi guys I’m new here so please take it easy on me.

    I'm trying to buy 2009 Toyota Camary LE 6cyl it gives me a MSRP of $24,215 and an Invoice price of $21,793. Now I know I qualify for two of their incentive programs which are the $1,500 and a $1,000 for new graduate.

    Can anyone please tell me how would I start the negotiations? Can I start from the Invoice price and ask for them to give me both of the Incentives (21,793 - 2500) would that be possible?

    I live in Los Angeles

    Thanks in advance
  • exlerexler Member Posts: 129
    KIAWAH--I am trying to find out when the Camrys went to a timing chain rather than a belt. I understand the chain does not need need to be replaced at a certain amount of miles. Also if you have any data on this subject about Corollas I would appreciate it. I am looking to buy a used Camry or Corolla for my son . Just trying to get an idea so I do not have to buy a belt on a used vehicle. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    For the 4 cylinder Camry's, the shift from belt to chain occurred w/Generation 5, which is beginning with the 2002 model year.

    I don't know about Corolla's.
  • exlerexler Member Posts: 129
    Thanks for the info Kiawah---Anyone have any info on the Corollas?
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