Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Problems with Chevy Venture Gauges
We purchased a 2004 Chevy Venture 2 years
ago. I started experiencing problems with the temperature gauge about 5-6 mos. ago.
After replacing the thermostat,
we discovered that the gauge was sticking.
What I ended up doing was turning the ignition (not to fully turn over the
engine) but half way, then off.
I did this a few times and it dropped
the gauge to zero - problem solved. Now the speedometer is not working. I
was driving today and noticed that, while I know I
was doing at least 40 mph, the speedometer
showed 10 mph. Once I stopped and turned off
the engine and then turned it over and started
driving again, it somewhat fixed it, but it doesn't
seem to be working like it should. Anyone else having the same problems?
ago. I started experiencing problems with the temperature gauge about 5-6 mos. ago.
After replacing the thermostat,
we discovered that the gauge was sticking.
What I ended up doing was turning the ignition (not to fully turn over the
engine) but half way, then off.
I did this a few times and it dropped
the gauge to zero - problem solved. Now the speedometer is not working. I
was driving today and noticed that, while I know I
was doing at least 40 mph, the speedometer
showed 10 mph. Once I stopped and turned off
the engine and then turned it over and started
driving again, it somewhat fixed it, but it doesn't
seem to be working like it should. Anyone else having the same problems?
0
Comments
I was told the fuel pump and sending unit was about $500......
I've heard that sometimes you can "fix" it by running Techron fuel additive in a few tankfuls in a row...I can't personally say yes or no, maybe I should try it and post back since mine does the same thing...that Techron stuff isn't cheap though...I'm just as content to reset the trip odometer and fill it up every 300 miles...
FIRST........ Check the harness plug that goes to the fuel pump/sender unit. The plug you want to check is located under the van about where the drivers seat is. The plug is a 9 or 10 pin plug. What went bad on mine was a couple terminals start shorting out and arcing giving you a bad connection.
Un-plug the plug and clean the terminals as best as you can with electric cleaner, rough up the terminal surface with a very small wire brush and clean again. Before you plug it back together put some eletric greese on each terminal.
I put in 4 fuel pumps/senders before I found this little gremlin.
Thanks to the poster for the great suggestion about the harness...I know enough about the Venture to help others with their problems and its so great to learn new stuff!!!!! :shades:
As I understand it...the science behind it is that the fuel causes "varnish" on the level sensor and the Techron dissolves it...It was my post and I've never even tried it, only read about it.....headed to the auto parts store tomorrow....lets keep the rest of the world posted as to how we do !!! :shades: :shades:
GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, Fuel Sending Unit Corrosion and Fuel System Deposits #05-00-89-078 - (Nov 9, 2005)
2006 and Prior All GM Cars and Trucks
2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
2006 and Prior Saturn (Canada Only)
2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS
GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco�, use 88861013) (in Canada, 88861012), is now available.
Added Benefits and Uses
The PLUS portion of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the addition of a filmer additive that, when used regularly, can protect fuel system sending units from the corrosive effects of certain sulfur contaminants found in some of today's gasoline.
Sulfur contamination can disrupt electrical continuity of certain fuel sending units and lead to erratic or false fuel gauge readings. With scheduled usage, GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS protects against the effects of harmful sulfurs in gasoline.
You Get Four Benefits
One bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS added to the fuel tank at each oil change:
� Cleans -- Sulfur corrosion from fuel gauge sending units.
� Prevents -- Harmful sulfur components from attacking sensitive fuel system electronics.
� Protects -- By coating metallic surfaces of the fuel system.
� Removes -- Engine deposits left from use of poor quality fuels.
GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS will replace the original GM Fuel System Treatment, P/N 12345104 (in Canada, 89020804). The original formula may still be available for a limited time, and provides the excellent Fuel System Cleaning aspects of the new product without the filmer.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco, use 88861013)
(in Canada, 88861012)
you are right, pump either works or it doesn't.....
Even on Chevron's website, one of the benefits of Techron that they list is that it frees stuck fuel level sensors....we'll see how we do...
Your sensor could still be fouled even though its been replaced...I don't think changing the pump will make any difference...I'm gonna do the 3 bottles in a row before I give up...for the 2ns bottle, I'm gonna let the tank run down a little first so the concentration is a little higher...I'll keep in touch!
John
Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Regular Method)
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
Position the center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) from the forward radius and that the cable tension slot is accessible in the window located on the Power Sliding Door (PSD) motor clutch assembly.
Important: Use only a 6-point 14 mm socket on the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut requires very little torque to achieve proper cable tension. DO NOT exceed 20 N·m of torque on the adjuster nut. Use of additional torque beyond 20 N·m may damage the adjuster nut. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .
Insert a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tension slot on the actuator motor.
Push in and turn the 14 mm cable adjuster nut (1) counterclockwise until the tensioner pins are located between both the front and rear double blocks. The blocks are marked on the PSD module housing. This action adjust the cable tension. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .
Remove the 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit from the cable tension slot.
Operate the sliding door manually.
Verify that the tension is correct.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization .
Place the jack in the storage compartment.
Close the storage compartment door.
Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Alternate Method)
Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Position the sliding door center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) away from the forward radius and that the cable tension adjuster nut is accessible in the adjuster window located on the Power Sliding Door motor clutch assembly.
Use 2 medium Phillips head screwdrivers in order to move the cable tension indicators to the uppermost portion of the tension indicating windows. Hold the tension indicators in place in order to reduce the amount of force that is required to turn the adjuster nut.
Insert the chuck end of a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tensioning slot in the actuator motor.
Complete the following steps simultaneously until you feel resistance in the cable. Resistance indicates that the cable is taut:
• Grasp the tension adjusting nut with pliers.
• Push the nut inward.
• Turn the nut counterclockwise.
Release the inward pressure on the nut and allow the nut to lock into place.
Release the cable tension indicators.
Verify that the cable tension indicators are located between both the front and rear double blocks marked on the PSD module housing. The tension is acceptable if the indicators are slightly high but are touching the indicator marks. If the indicators are below the indicator marks, repeat step 6 through step 11 until you obtain enough tension. If the tension is too high, push in on the adjuster nut in order to release the tension, then repeat step 6 through step 11.
Operate the sliding door manually.
Position the door as described in step 5. Verify that the tension is correct. If the tension is incorrect , repeat Step 6 through step 11 until you obtain the correct tension.
Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization in Owner's Manual.
Here's pics:
good luck
John
link title
Thanks
I've read that if you catch it early enough, you can cure it with a bottle of Techron in the fuel tank as it cleans the sulfur off of the sending unit - for 15 bucks it might be worth a try but I wouldn't count on it.
You can also check the pass through connector - its a bundle of wires underneath the car approximately under the drivers seat - disconnect and check that the contacts are all clean. Some of those wires go to the level sending unit as well as the fuel pump.
Its more than likely that the problem is the sending unit though - its not a cheap repair as they have to drop the fuel tank to fix it...Good luck
the tank should be fairly empty. support the tank with blocks or jack stands. The tank is only held up with two strapes and four bolts. being plastic and fairly empty, the tank should be managable to slide out from under the van. The float/sending unit is very easy to replace from there.
Check all of your wire connections, clean and put eletric grease on them before re-installing.
I also have a problem with my oil pressure gauge, in that while driving, the oil pressure gauge remains around 45-55. When I begin to slow down below 30 mph, the oil pressure gauge slowly begins to drop. At idle, it drops to about 20. It immediately goes back up to 45-55 as soon as I press the accelerator.
Good luck to all! I am sending my unit off in the next couple days. I will repost when I know if this is a valid fix.
I have a 2004 Venture and I am contemplating sending it to Mr. Whizard in the next couple weeks. The gas & temp gauge are always off and the speedo now 'ticking' up the mph, so I think that's going next. After all the research I came to the same result as you.
I was just looking for some feedback if Mr. Whizard's $189 fix is not worth it. Thanks!
This has happened to pretty much all the gauges on my wife's 2004 Chevrolet Venture! I won't speak for everyone, but it sounds to me like the gauge stepper motors are shot. In the case that they are your stepper motors. You will need to have the gauge cluster rebuilt / refurbished. You can also replace the stepper motors yourself.
To rebuild the gauge cluster yourself is really not that hard. A rebuilt or refurbished gauge cluster will cost you anywhere from $200.00 to $400.00 depending on who does it. Also you will be without your gauges for a period of time. I refurbished the gauge cluster in my wife's van and my pickup in approximately an hour and a half. The kit cost me $50.00 bucks. Now the gauges on my wife's Venture and on my Silverado are working just like new again.
In case your thinking, I can't do that kind of repair. Keep in mind, I myself am no big shot mechanic. I have the ability to screw up anything I touch and I did this myself in my garage with a screwdriver and a kitchen fork! Some kits contain the tools needed such as a soldering iron and solder sucker.
So I bought a 2000 Venture Van last Saturday. My mechanic was selling it from the previous owner who owned it since new. The owner pretty much ran the tank to empty. I was driving it to the gas station and the gauge went from empty to full. I was thinking "okay, that's odd." I went to go the gas station and filled up the tank. Started the van after filling and the gauge went to full, back to empty and then back to full. There was a near by parking lot and I waited 15 minutes sitting to make sure everything was fine. The gauge had been working normal since then. I figured it was a safety to tell the driver it's empty, even though there is a light that says 'low fuel." I phoned my mechanic to let him know and he said "to let him know if it goes to empty again where there is gas in the tank." Drove it for a few days after and never had any issues with it.
Reading the messages from other members at least lets me know that this is a common issue. It's a common issue that can repaired easily enough. I have a Pick N' Pull not too far from my house so I can get parts for cheap since i don't want to pay for dealer prices. Plus, if I can do it myself, the better.