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On the other hand the lockup clutch should NEVER be engaged during most times of AWD engagement....during low speed acceleration. Which leaves us with AWD and lockup clutch engagement only in turns, while turning.
Your term "4WD", at least for me, implies having the ability to put the system in/out of 4WD manually, PB or otherwise. In that case any "issues" would generally be the driver's responsibility, failure to properly manage the system.
What everyone today seems to be selling, trying to sell, are "automatic" AWD systems that require no driver intervention, thoughfulness, or knowledge.
These fall into 2 categories, Pre-emptive or passive.
Most passive systems, after the fact systems, rely on TC braking, along with INSTANTANEOUS engine dethrottling, to "re"-allocate engine torque but only after driven wheelslip/spin is already present. Since this TC function eliminates, totally, the driver's ability to use the old tried and true method of "feathering" the throttle to get up and going initially, most now have a TC "off" capability.
The HL, WRX, and RX, RX prior to 2010, fall into the above category.
Then we have the PRE-EMPTIVE systems such as the WRX-Sti, MDX, RX (2010+), and the RDX (both "flavors, the prior RDX, and the new one using the same system as the newer RX).
We all know, are most certainly SHOULD know, that leaving a true 4WD system engaged on a tractive surface, even for a very short distance, will ALWAYS result in driveline component failure due to the HEAT from the resulting over-stressing.
So, what these new PRE-EMPTIVE "AWD" systems do is they automatically LOCK ("effectively") the center differential TEMPORARILY but only at/during the specific times, situations, wherein wheelspin/slip would otherwise be most likely to result.
Those times are:
1.) During low speed acceleration wherein it could be, were one on a marginally tractive roadbed surface, of great benefit to NOT have the primary drive wheels subject to the full level of drive torque.
2.) During low speed turns, "tight" turns, or even moreso accelerating during into/during a low speed turn. In turns wherein the lateral forces on the front tires build up substantially one can see it would be wise/best, to not have the front wheels remain the primary "drive" force.
If these vehicles are primarily driven on low traction surfaces, no harm, no foul. But drive them primarily on highly tractive surfaces or with a leadfoot and you are likely to endure some type of driveline component faillure post-warranty.
Were I in the market currently I would be seriously considering the base Porsche Cayenne or the VW Toureg. Both make use of the same electromagnetic clutch system as the newer RX and RDX, but in the front driveline vs the rear, R/awd.
R/awd biased AWD.
With either of these, F/awd or R/awd, using the electromagnetically controlled clutch, I would add a switch function....OFF/AUTO/ON. The latter state, locked on, would expire automatically, switching back in "AUTO" mode after the initial 30-60 period, or if the vehicle reached 20-25 MPH.
"OFF"...Extension of driveline component "life" well beyong the warranty period. IMMHO there is no need (Leadfoot = Exception) for any "AWD" functionality except upon driver recognition of adverse roadbed conditions, or the probability, <32F OAT, thereof.
I hope ypou've been changing the transmission, transaxle and rear differential fluids every 60k miles too.
It only has ~252,000 miles running on the factory fill......
The only real complaint I have is how hard it pulls against the brakes when stopped with the engine IDLING at ~700RPM, really bad before the engine falls off the high idle mode, ~1100 RPM.
I often slip it into neutral if the stop appears to be prolonged.
I did put in new sparkplugs/caps/rotors recently just because....
I was out of town driving & after stopping at a stoplight - my MDX would not go into gear. I turned off the vehicle & then turned it on. I was able to drive home the 35 miles & now it is at my mechanics. 127,000 miles a little disappointing but cheaper than purchasing a new car.
In Feb had the timing belt, etc replaced.
It sure seems that transmissions are a big issue with the Acura MDX with following these postings!
Thanks,
04 MDX owner
BANG
At 110k miles you will need a timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and valve adjustment. Two motor mounts will also fail by then. At 150k miles, you may need new front ball joints and rear control arms. Except for the transmission problem, this is all normal wear and tear. Except for what we've read about Acura putting the screws to many people over this transmission problem, we loved the car. Gas mileage isn't very good considering what the new cars are getting. However, I won't buy a new Acura. I think there are better cars out there now.
You'll have to make your own decision. 85k miles is a little low for the average vehicle. It all depends on how well the '04 has been maintained. I wouldn't pay more then the "trade-in" value based on the "Blue Book". You should be able to buy an extended warranty because it's under 100k miles. Check with your local Acura regarding a reliable company to by the warantee from.
So driving style, or even geographic region, might have an adverse impact on how soon one of those components fails. Note that the MDX was switched from the VTM-4 system to the SH-AWD system at some point which seems to have helped alleviate the failures.
Friction is not the problem but the fast heat build-up due to a HIGH friction coefficient and abrasive properties will cause the performance of the torque converter to become poor and shorten the durability of those components with continued operation once the HIGH friction condition is experienced.
The problem is one of design. The torque converter is not receiving adequate lubrication with long term use or, is subject to be easily fouled, resulting in insufficient lubrication causing HIGH heat buildup and component failure.
More frequent maintenance can prevent this.
It is my understanding that it is the lock-up clutch portion, integral portion, of the torque converter that is/has failed, not the torque converter itself.
In order to provide the best FE most modern day automatic transmissions made use of the lock-up aspect of the torque converter as close to 100% of the time that is possible, bypassing the function, functionality, of the LOSSY torque converter as often as is feasible.
Then you throw in the extra stresses of having the rear drive system engaged a goodly portion of the time and you have a recipe for failure.
Jumping from the frying pan directly into the FIRE!!
I have been reading many of the other reports from others about their torque converter. I have a 2001 which we dearly love but it has been shuttering for the last 10k miles and I was not smart enough to realize what it was. I now have only 107K miles and I am wondering what to do. The dealership said it would be about $2,800 to replace the converter if that is all that needs to be done. However, when I was riding with the mechanic to show him the issue, I asked how many TCs he had replaced and I think he had done one. I also noted in some of the previous notes that some owners had gotten theirs replaced under warranty. Any chance here for me? Should I take it to a transmission specialist or a different dealership where they have more experience replacing the TC? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
If that won't work, find an independant transmission specialist who has experience with these Acura transmissions. You will need a new torque converter and a transmission overhaul. An independant specialist will be $1,500 to $2000 cheaper then Acura. A factory rebuilt transmision from Acura will cost $4500 to $5000 installed. An experienced independant transmission shop will replace the parts with better quality and should know how to do modifications and upgrades to make your transmission last longer. Check their record with Better Business before commiting.
Good Luck
FWIW I recently had the fluid changed at a Honda dealer and the shutter was noticeably less.
I am done with Acura I have spent all kinds of money on a vehicle I mistakenly thought was a quality product.
Have the trans fixed at that price and you should be able to run it into the ground for another 100k miles. Put $100 or $200 in the bank every month it doesn't break and you'll be able to buy a nice car.
ps...Don't belive them about the cat. converter, they tried that trick on us too.
Recently purchased a 2009 MDX w 34000 mi. It has a transmission whine. It also is hard to steer at a dead stop.
Recently received a recall for both a torque converter problem and he steering problem on this model. Warranted for 108000miles.
They haven't solved the tranny problem based upon what I read from here
Not sure what this service bulletin means to me.... any thoughts ?
Thanks
I also received both letters from Acura regarding the torque converter and steering problem, but this dealership declines to work on it. They said, "I see it, but don't know how to fix it!"
Have you had any luck getting your MDX fixed?