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that's why we all got a partition going for a lawyer. :confuse:
We also did not have that kind of money to shell out. We went with a rebuilt transmission and they did the "bypass" thing for the radiator. It ended up about 1/2 the price. It still is not running like it was ~ but I think it will get us through until something with the lawsuit happens.
Details: Daughter came back from school and had to drive around 30mph for over because the engine was racing (of course she didn't call). I get in and it seemed fine though I noticed once warm it wouldn't take off like it used to. Mechanic drove it and said tranny so we got a rebuilt for around $2600. I get it back, take it to work on Friday and after stalling twice in the driveway, its running fine for ten minutes. But then really slow off a standing start. It seems to have issues switching gears so I think it was actually in second or third on the highway. Maybe that was the issue with my daughter? Also seems to jump to a lower gear at the wrong time. First thought was we were had as the tranny is not the problem but now I don't know as I see postings in regards to the radiator?. Have I caused damage to the rebuilt transmission by driving it 30 miles at local and highway speeds?
Hopefully someone can help. I've read through some posts and searched but I have a 2003 with the following issues.
I have a 2006 Pathfinder with 45k miles which I recently purchased used from a dealership. If the trans fluid turns out to be soured I'm going to ask them how this passed their ten million point inspection that is such a huge selling point.
I've recently experienced some symptoms similar to others on this thread. It started with a vibration around 75-80mph. Within the past few weeks I started feeling the vibration around 60 and now anything over 40. At the same time I started to hear a slight clicking when I would come to a stop (similar to a CV joint going bad). This clicking has become louder and I now hear it at any very low speed (< 10mph). I suspected a U joint on the front drive shaft (that’s where the noise seems to be coming from) so I crawled under to check. I'm in no way a mechanic but I was able to grab the two parts of the shaft around one of the ujoints and twist back and forth. I got a tiny bit of movement with the same clicking noise that I've been hearing. I have an appointment with my mechanic today to confirm what I found to be a problem. It doesn’t at all seem normal to me.
After doing some online research I've found that the vibrations at higher speeds could also be caused by a bad ujoint. I was wondering if anyone could confirm that they've had similar symptoms in this thread but found it was a ujoint issue. I also checked my coolant and it looked very clean. I'm having my mechanic check the trans fluid today also. As a precaution, no matter what outcome is with the fluid checks, I'm having the radiator replaced and the trans fluid flushed (not just drained and filled!). I ordered a Koyo A2807 rad for $210 and figure with labor and the way overpriced Nissan fluid I should be around $500. It's been suggested that bypassing the rad and installing an external cooler is a solution but I read that this may actually cause a problems in cold climates? Can anyone confirm or deny that?
I'm still under power train warranty for another year / 15k miles but I'm picturing the worst case scenario here where the tranny lasts until after that. I don't really want to spend this money now but it will hopefully give me some peace of mind. When I first purchased this car 7 months ago I felt like I finally had a rock solid vehicle (especially with the winter we had here in PA) and now I feel like it's going to bomb out on me at any moment. I'll post a follow-up once I find out about my ujoints / fluid and any other diagnosis.
I also went ahead with a proactive fix for the radiator/transmission issue. I wasn't having any problems but wanted to take care of it before it cost me a fortune. I bought an aftermarket radiator (Sherman) from Rock Auto and replaced it myself for a total cost of only $175. It was a bit of work but hopefully I will be set.
You can bypass the radiator and run an external tranny cooler, however the radiator also is used to heat up the tranny fluid in cold weather. It is possible to cause damage to the tranny if you live in a cold weather climate as the tranny fluid will not get up to temp fast enough with out the assistance of the radiator heat. A better solution would be an after market radiator. The failure point on the OEM radiator is the connector tube.
The issue you described is most likely a bad u-joint. Premature failure of the u-joints is a common problem on the pathfinders.
Nissan Customer Service called last week and referred our claim to the Regional Specialist. We are now waiting for the "Regional Specialist" to call to review our claim.
Anyway, Maryland guy, bring it to Pa, Selingsgrove, Pa, its the cheapest replacement Nissan I found. Youll end up replacing all of it. And I had a new U joint put on at the same time as well, about $100.
Our issue ended up being the U-joints which out mechanic replaced and everything runs fine now, BUT, I will definitely keep an eye on the radiator.
BTW - our gas gauge went out ages ago and our mechanic said it would over $500 to replace. We passed and have just tracked mileage, glad to see we're not the only ones in that boat either.
I did not perform the "flush" on the coolant system. I simply drained the radiator and added fresh coolant. The coolant I drained looked good, no sign of tranny fluid, so I think I'm fine.
I am so...... confused and frustrated you have no idea !!!
I am equally as disgusted with Nissan. I wrote our Congressman and Senators and they received a response from Nissan simply saying the vehicle was out of warrantly and our problem.
http://www.lieffcabraser.com/contact/thankyou.htm. and report to:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/
About 2 months ago with 78,000 miles I replaced the radiator ($200 for aftermarket, WAS NOT going to get another defective Nissan radiator), $200 for 18 quarts of Matic S and $20 for new nissan coolant. Vibration cleared up immediately. It now has gone about 3,000 miles and seems none worse for the wear. I will be towing our camper with it soon, which should be a good test.
Moral of the story is to change the radiator and flush the hell out of the transmission, then see what happens before spending $$$$ for a new transmission. I will update this in a few weeks after towing and road trip, but have my fingers crossed.
Now the local Nissan dealer says transmission fluid is "burnt" and two gears are suspect. So the rebuilt transmission has 12 month warranty, but is there some other issue such as coolant that might be causing the tranny to fail? I'm concerned the transmission shop will say its not their fault the transmission failed if the cooling is no good and won't cover under the warranty. Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks,
KMON.
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