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What's odd is that, even though AAA told me not to start the car again just in case, I did have an instinct to try starting it once more, to see if it would start normally (which it has, ever since). I agree with you that there might be a problem with the starter, but I don't think this mechanic put a great deal of effort into looking into the problem. He just kept test-driving the car, which was stupid, because nothing unusual happened while I was driving--just when I started the car. That's why I want someone else to look at the car, and with luck, your post might help them pinpoint the problem.
Thanks very much for your input, and if/when a local mechanic does find out exactly what happened, I'll post an update to help anybody else who might someday search this forum about a similar issue.
Any ideas? I have read that it could be the vent or air door actuator....but could also be a vacuum leak somewhere (although that may make less sense)
Thanks!
Try reading in that thread. I'll see if I can find a Bonneville topic where this has been discussed.
You've either lost vacuum to the programmer box from the motor side or the little distributor plastic connector on the corner of the programmer box is collapsing. Usually they collapse as the car runs longer instead of what you are getting.
When you turn off the motor and leave key ON, can you hear the vacuum motors move under the dash with the left over vacuum when you press different air flow buttons on the dash control?
Here is a link to Bonneville topic with same problem:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f12214a/199#MSG199
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Very strange indeed because there is no discernible loss of power (engine not running rough...like you sometimes see in a vacuum leak), and the problem seems to get better (i.e., air comes out of the mid level) if I run the engine long enough.
Back with you shortly.
Thanks.
If you don't have much vacuum, check at engine end next to large brake booster hose for rotted rubber end for the plastic vacuum line. Check under Relay Center cover down in bundle of wires for the T connection and ahead where there's a vacuum one-way valve. Check the storage tank under the right front fender behind headlight.
This is the piece on the corner of programmer box that needs to be bypassed--at least the blue line to the diaphragm for the door for the defroster to make the air come out the dash vents.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Stick something up into the tube and be sure you're not under the tube while you do that. Usually a lot of water will come out.
When the AC has been running on humid days and the car is parked, is there a drip of condensation that comes out the bottom of the firewall? If not, then the AC drain is stopped up.
Rarely someone found a leak around another part letting water into the passenger compartment onto the floor. Has there been lots of rain? Does the car have a sunroof?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1997 Buick LeSabre, 168,000 miles......
...I had spark plugs replaced one month before having trouble (did not replace wires)...
The LeSabre has been having a very small water loss some where but I always kept the water reservoir filled.
The day of having car trouble,here's what happened...
I checked the water before starting on small trip...drove about 15 miles and the LeSabre was running real good....
"NOT ONE TIME did the heat gauge go over to red"...then we came up to an intersection and it stared missing a little...we pulled into Mac D's to eat....
About 30 min. later, we went out to start it...and all the engine would do is turn over real good.
Had it towed to my Nephew about 15 miles away...he was able to start it and move it...but it was missing while moving it ...he said it was a head gasket...because it had water coming out the tail pipe...he also said it "DIDN'T HAVE OIL IN THE WATER" which was good.
I went up yesterday after it has been sitting for over a week and checked it out...it started and ran rough for about 5 min. and moisture or vapors was coming out the back exhaust pipe.
after the moisture or vapors disappeared...it started running "REAL GOOD SMOOTH"...no missing...after about 5 min it then started running rough again...I cut it off and checked the exhaust pipe...
..."it was DRY AND HAD NO SIGN OF WATER" at all.
Please help me...please email me at [email protected]
Thank you!
GOD Bless!
Dana
The lower intake gaskets, under the metal lower, also can leak. This water goes into the cylinder intake more directly. Often when the car isparked under pressure, the water leaks into one cylinder causing hydrolock and the engine won't turn over.
Head gasket problems are very rare short of overheating the engine to a degree you couldn't miss it happening.
The coolant from either leak is getting into the oil. This will acidify and detriorate the bearings on the crankshaft causing failure.
If your upper intake has been replaced, it will either have no circles on top or the circles will be marked for date later than 1996/1997. One of the circles is the year. Aftermarket brands don't have the circles like GM.
The current oil needs to be drained quickly and replaced, even with cheapest generic oil while the engine is getting in to be worked on. Then drain and replace again after 50-100 miles even the fresh oil put in when the intake parts are replaced.
Be sure to use metal framed gaskets for the lower intake. ineedparts.com is a source for a good upper intake. Rockauto.com. If you are doing it yourself.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Here is the end of the story. I traced the lines back to the connector for the programmer. When I too the connector out, the nipples were not cracked, etc. However, when I plugged it back in, the air conditioner started to function properly. Go figure. So, I took it out again and looked more closely. The nipples were soft, and I have come to the conclusion that one or more of them were collapsing. So, I cut all of the lines, spliced them, and bypassed the connector altogether. The a/c vents work beautifully now...no problems.
Thanks again for your help. The photo was very helpful as well.
Best, E
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
In this post
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f178c2c/157
imidazol97 says that it is most likely the EGR tube inside the upper intake leaking. Can anyone point me to a thread on repairing or replacing the EGR tube or does the whole upper have to be replaced?
Getting parts down here is a PIA so I need any info you can give me as each time I guess it costs me 2 weeks waiting.
Also is there anyway to bypass this as it is never under 80 deg F down here!
Thanks for the help.
Mac
The upper intake does fail with leaks where the EGR gas goes through the plastic upper to be mixed with the incoming air. The plastic deteriorates into granules and seeping begins losing coolant from the passages that go through the upper intake manifold (UIM) to the throttle body.
The lower gaskets between the metal lower and the cylinder heads also need to be replaced to be sure they don't start leaking directly into the cylinders while coolant is under pressure. Sometimes this fills a cylinder and hydrolock occurs.
http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts/intake-manifolds/96-08-lower-intake-gasket-- - - - set-3800-v-6-permadryplus.html
Is a source for the GM metal framed lower intake gaskets.
Here is APN's version of the upper fixed to prevent a repeat failure in the EGR area. Notice they use a metal sleeve to help spread the heat from the gases.
http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts/intake-manifolds/gm-intake-manifold-kit-178- - - - 06.html
All versions of the upper from Dorman and APN have a reduced size stovepipe on the metal lower that carries the EGR gases through the upper. That's even if the part does NOT have a metal sleeve.
Note at the bottom of that page they offer a combined price for the metal framed lower and the upper.
I don't know how shipping is handled outside US. They give a price for US 48 states shipping. That implies they do ship outside the 48.
Is the oil a milky color instead of a clear oil. If so, that oil needs to be drained and replaced, even using cheap oil until the source of coolant can be fixed. The coolant turns acidic and affects the bearings and surfaces.
I think I can link you to some how-to-do-it repair sites about repairiing the upper and lowers. Send email to address that shows when you double click on my name at top of this post.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
To follow up on this for anyone else who might be having this problem, the starter needed to be replaced. I was lucky to get stranded in my own garage, but that was sheer luck...I drive to other towns a lot, and I could have been stranded far from home.
So if your car has these problems, look into replacing the starter, even if it seems to be working.
Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
My mother-in-law's 02 LeSabre has these three lights on. The local shop told her that it's the "Electronic Brake Control Module" and that they can replace it with a used one but she'd have to go to the dealer to have it programmed.
I haven't had a chance to clean the battery terminals.
Looks like you can get these EBCMs repaired and not lose the programming; not sure how easy getting the module off her car would be (remember, we get a lot of rust from the salty roads up here...well, you do too). The screws may be toast. Looks like a pain just to get to it.
Since I'm not paying for it, I'm tempted just to let her go used for $210 installed, and pay the dealer programming fee. One reputable sounding online repair place will fix it for $150 plus shipping, but I'd have to crawl around under the car.
Since it's only (barely) driven in town and not in lousy weather, maybe I should just figure out how to turn the idiot lights off. :-) Especially if the module isn't the real problem.
TIA to you and anyone else for any other suggestions.
Steve, visiting Host
Do the replacement brake modules need to be cycled to bleed them? That requires a Tech II or equivalent tool to make them pulse to clear the air out.
Then there's the dealer programming--can't the local mechanic do that also with the TEch II?
The one thing good about sending off my unit and having it rebuilt is then it's a good unit and doesn't require programming. A used module might, might be a problem.
I've read only a few people who have had problems with these in the H-body cars. But there are a few.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I took the two replacement pumps in to return them and when the guy in the store tested them they both worked!
Has anybody ever had something like this have happen before?
What do I check?
The replacement pumps were Airtex if that makes a difference.
Thanks in advance.
This pay site supposedly has build sheets and you may be able to do a free trial and then cancel. No experience with them though.
I also have an error code P0107 that I think is vacuum related but has nothing to do with the cruise not working. Any thoughts? I have been experimenting for over a year and have not solved either of these issues. ( I replaced the PCV valve but that did not solve the P0107. )