Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Buick LeSabre Maintenance and Repair

24

Comments

  • helpmeplease3helpmeplease3 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much for your help. So this would cause this sound when giving the car gas. Could it cause more damage if it not corrected soon.
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    I'd also have someone check the motor mounts.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The hot gases escaping around the seal may, may heat up the wall between the passenger compartment and the engine if the leakage is toward that and is great enough. You can feel the leakage with you hand when you move it closer to the connection while motor is running--but it is hot back in there. It's a fairly easy repair for a good mechanic--two bolts that hold the two parts together. Put in the donut which is probably $15-25 at most and maybe less, and bolt it back together.

    The donut is $7.95 at autozone. It's the exhaust flange seal, if I have my parts straight. You could also have leakage at a crack in the manifold that's bolted onto the motor if it's been damaged. Listening while the motor is running under load will let you locate the source of the sound while the hood's up and someone gently brakes and gives the motor some gas.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • helpmeplease3helpmeplease3 Member Posts: 5
  • oldsdadoldsdad Member Posts: 4
    '93' Buick LeSabre) New rotors, pads,on all 4, calipers on rear, still doesnt stop. Mechanic says master cylinder is dripping fluid into pwer assist. replaced both to no avail. still almost went through light. any advise ??
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Proportioning valve?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    First, the rear has drum brakes; there is no caliper. What did they replace on the rear? They may have needed to replace the front rotors if you were getting pedal vibration because they were warped or deteriorated.

    I'm not sure why the vacuum brake booster that helps the pedal push the master cylinder needed to be replaced. I can accept that the master cylinder needed replacement.

    The proportioning valve might keep the rear from getting enough brake fluid pressure
    to operate the drums, but those help only very little in most stopping conditions. The fronts do most of the work because of the weight on the front wheels.

    The ABS unit might be doing something wrong or not allowing pressure to flow. But I'd give that a very low possibility.

    My thinking is about the recent stoplight incident. Did the pedal become hard and high like when you get in the car in the morning before you start it. Or in an open area with no other cars turn off the key to the OFF but no lock position while driving slowly and then press the brake pedal, then let up and press again. As you repeat this you'll use up the vacuum in the reservoir that was supposed to have been replaced. The brakes still work, but require lots more force to stop (like in the 40s and 50s without brake assist). See if the pedal begins to feel like during the stop attempt at the light. There might be a vacuum problem with your motor operating at lower vacuum because it's mechanically worn or with a leak in a hose to the booster from the manifold.

    And a personal opinion of mine, I'd find another mechanic from a recommendation of a friend to check the car for you. I recall recently I took my newer car to have the tires rebalanced and rotated all paid for when I purchased my replacement Michelin tires. The mechanic instead took it on a test drive without permission. thendoing the the checks for other work they might do presented me an estimate for $700 to replace front rotors and pads and do rear pads all of which he showed me were supposed to be "thin as cardboard."

    I replaced the front pads with quality GM ceramic and bought new rotors for the rear. His estimate for replacing parts not needed was about 3 times what it should cost. I go to another store in the chain of tire/repair stores and drive by 2 stores on the way where I'd had poor service. Some guys don't get about honesty and knowing what to do or suggesting going to the dealer and paying for analysis even if you don't get the work done.

    Stopping the car is critical.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    OK I'll try again, Check the front Brake HOSES.they get blocked up, have someone watch the calipers for movement while someone depresses the pedal, if there is no movement, then there is the problem, only the rear brakes are working, that is why it is hard to stop, the only problem here is the bleeders, if they are not frozen, then this is an inexpesive fix. If the master cyl has a bad bypass holding the pedal with pressure and it will drop to the floor, then you will need to replace it, (master cyl.) as for the leaking, well remove the bolts on the master and carefully pull it out to see if there is wetness, you do not have to completely remove it, but usually there is a loss of fluid with no other observed leaks..so go from there, Hope this helps.
  • oldsdadoldsdad Member Posts: 4
    Sorry about the confusion. this is my fault! Although I consider myself an honest man, I thougt it would be less confusing to present my 93 Olds as a Buick as I cant seem to find any Olds Mechanics anymore. Big mistake huh? I apologize again. Yes there are discs on ther rear.The reason that the power assist had to be replaced was because the cylander was leaking into it. (as it was explained to me). The pedal can be layed into hard but bottoms out. like the peddal hits a wall and goes no more then slowly stops. I can see where this could be a problem if I ever have to lockem up or,, just stop for a reason fast. Thanks so much,,, John
  • oldsdadoldsdad Member Posts: 4
  • oldsdadoldsdad Member Posts: 4
    Replaced the Mater and pwer assist as well as the pads and calipewrs. haed two power flushes. mechanics dont know where to go. Thought about vaccum leaks but the car dosnt stop well even if you lay into it hard. the pedal hits a brick wall and can go no farther.seems to be a hydraulic problem to me but im no mechanic. If you lay into the peddal that hard then the power assist is no longer in play ... right? Thanks so mmuch,,, John
  • wahortonwahorton Member Posts: 3
    Specs say the top speed of a 740iL is 125. What options are available that would allow me to achieve 155 - 160. Talks of "Turbo Charger" indicated major piston work-not! Wouldn't dream of adding Nitrous. So, next step, talk to the SMEs (Subject Matter Experts) on the subject.
  • wahortonwahorton Member Posts: 3
    My cruise control has a mind of it's own and that very dangerous. Sometimes when I try to activate it the speed increases by 10 mph for about 5 sec then the system disables, and will not activate again until the car is restarted. Other times the system will not activate at all, any suggestions?
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Specs say the top speed of a 740iL is 125. What options are available that would allow me to achieve 155 - 160. Talks of "Turbo Charger" indicated major piston work-not! Wouldn't dream of adding Nitrous. So, next step, talk to the SMEs (Subject Matter Experts) on the subject.

    May I ask: what does that have to do with the subject matter of this particular forum?
  • art27art27 Member Posts: 2
  • wahortonwahorton Member Posts: 3
    New to this setup, thought I was asking questions in the right place, understand if you can't answer. Thanks :shades:
  • bdoerrbdoerr Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Buick LeSabre custom which I bought used last week on 4/29/09, and I have had to go back 2x this week because the service engine light came on, and this time the tech told me the gas cap was defective. Car has 68,500 miles was a rental car before I bought it. Is this a common problem
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    What code was showing on the code reader? There's on that indicates the system can't keep pressure and that would indicate the gas cap or other hoses or switches.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bdoerrbdoerr Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for asking, the tech didnt give me that info, but said he is ordering a new gas cap, they checked it 2x the last time, yesterday is when they said it was the gas cap, hopefully this fixes it
    Thbaks agaib
  • whozleftwhozleft Member Posts: 2
    I need your help trying to track down the source of my problem.
    When my LeSabre shifts into overdrive at about 50mph, it starts missing. Now, if I downshift it manually into the next lower gear to bring up the RPM's it runs fine. Or if I gas it and get the RPM's up it's ok. Another thing I have noticed is that it does not do this when I first start driving in the morning when the engine is not up to temp yet.

    Now the short answer is to never put the car in overdrive until I'm on the highway running 65mph, but that still doesn't make the car right.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on what to start looking for? It's had a tuneup, the tranny has been checked, my check engine light does not come on, and there are no codes on my code reader coming up. I am at a loss.

    Thanks for any ideas you can give me.

    Gary
    Pataskala, OH
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    DISCLAIMER: I don't own a LeSabre. My comments are based on experience with a different GM transmission in a Monte Carlo.

    What you're feeling may not be an engine misfire but a failed torque converter solenoid. The solenoid is supposed to lock up the torque converter, to eliminate slip and improve fuel economy. If the transmission is shifting into OD at low speed (below about 45 mph) then the engine will "lug" (run too slowly to run smoothly under load).

    If the solenoid fails, it may only partially engage the lockup function, or it may engage and disengage repeatedly, creating a nasty surge and possibly a clunking noise.

    Either that, or you may have a failed speed sensor in the transmission (assuming the trans is electronically controlled). If the trans isn't electronically controlled, then a vacuum leak could cause the behavior you describe.

    I ran my Monte Carlo with no problems for 65k miles after the symptom first appeared, just by waiting till I was up to freeway speed to engage the overdrive. It's not an ideal solution, but it didn't create any additional problems.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I am not sure about your transmission. I believe you have the 4T60E rather than the 4T65E which started in 1998. In the 4T65E there was a solenoid that adjusted the torque converter lockup slip amounts and something like 98% was the max lockup. That moving valve would wear the channel and have trouble controlling the lockup amount. So the engine speed would vary a hundred or more RPMs driving along with minimal load on it. Typically this was more of a problem with a hot transmission after being driven a long time. I believe it was called a throttle valve.

    But I believe you'll find your problem in spark plugs and wires. If not replaced in 4 years or 50,000 miles or so, replace with the proper AC Delco plug per the books at PepBoys, e.g, and replace the wires with a Delco AC replacement or Belden from NAPA. Don't go for fancy or sporty or racing wires in nice colors. You want OEM resistance wires.

    You might make sure the wire in back isn't close to the wire for the Oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe. Some people think the electromagnetic induction can affect the O2 readings.

    Then check your coils. Use a resistance meter between coil terminals. Compare all three. Then take off each coil one at a time, put in a paper clip or pin to measure the resistance of the terminals on the primary side underneath. Compare all three. While they're off check the prongs on the contacts that stick into the coil and make sure they're clean and lube with dielectric grease just like you use on the plugs to prevent the wires from sticking to the porcelain.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • whozleftwhozleft Member Posts: 2
  • dfrankenfielddfrankenfield Member Posts: 3
    This problem started about a week ago and i cant seem to figure it out and i havent had much time to really dig into it.

    My rpm metter free floats from 0-7000rpms and above, the car itself never stops running at normal rmps, never revs, nothing, but the meter is all over the charts. if i rev the engine, it will take off from where ever it happens to be and begin to read and then fall to normal areas, for instance if i rev the car and its already floated to 4000, it will jump to 6000 cause i reved it, then fall back down to 800 or so for idling. Happens while driving, while idling, anytime the car is on.

    Any ideas? My one friend said its probably one or 2 of my sensors that went bad.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thank u
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >My one friend said its probably one or 2 of my sensors that went bad

    I thought the RPM gauge got its reading from the PCM (computer). I'd look for a dirty connector but first I'd suspect it's in the actual cluster assembly. I'd look for contacts there that have corroded where the cluster connects to the wiring harness. Bonneville people have some trouble with corrosion there. You might try the vibration method-hitting the cluster to try to break through any corrosion with movement enabling a fresh connection metal-to-metal. And there may be a module that interprets the signals from the PCM that's a part of the cluster. That may be failing. But I'd suspect connections first.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dfrankenfielddfrankenfield Member Posts: 3
    alright, yea i didnt think it was a sensor either cuase i didnt see how that really related to the rpm meter but at this point im lookin at all options haha, thanks for the help!
  • dfrankenfielddfrankenfield Member Posts: 3
  • keso151keso151 Member Posts: 3
    Having trouble with a new vcar we purchased. The car has 47,000 miles and the passenger side a/c blows warm. We charged the system to 35 lbs with no help.Moving the actuator under the glovebox was no help.There are 3 actuators in the back of the glovebox...has anyone fixed this problem before?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    There is an electrical actuator motor on top of the heater box above the programmer. It's connected by a short set of wires. I think, think, that is the one for the passenger side. See if it's working. The motors can have gears crack and they slip on the axle.

    The other actuator is inside the programmer and extends its rod along the bottom of the box to a white plastic arm that moves a door inside for the driver air temp.

    the other actuators are vacuum and they are on the driver's side of the HVAC box.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • keso151keso151 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply..do I access the passenger actuator thru the glovebox?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Take off the passenger hush panel.

    Take off the 7 screws along the bottom hinge of the glovebox. With those both out of the way you'll be able to see both and watch their actions with the key ON and when changing the settings on the dash or on passenger door.. One does passenger, one does driver. And I believe it's the bottom is driver.

    image

    image

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • keso151keso151 Member Posts: 3
  • xfilesalanxfilesalan Member Posts: 1
    HI, I had the same problem on my 2002 blower motor. I would beat on the dash and it would start up. Got tired of that so I took the blower motor out and took it apart and found black soot pluging up the works. Cleaned it out put back together now works great........Alan................Note the blower motor was made in Korea !!
  • danylledanylle Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 buick lesabre custom. It is leaking gas and i need an engine diagram or something to figure out what the part i need is called so i can get it fixed can anyone help?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Why do you believe it's leaking gas? What are the symptoms?

    There are places on an engine where gas can leak. There are connections on the flexible fuel lines at the fuel rails that holds the injectors.

    There is a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) which controls the fuel pressure based on engine vacuum, sensing the demand for power from the engine. These in some cases were recalled because they could leak into the vacuum tube connected to them and let raw fuel get into the intake manifold where there usually is only air; occasionally a spark would ignite that mixture and the upper intake manifold would crack from the pressure inside.

    There is raw fuel at each injector. There are o-rings around each injector (two) and these might leak with age allowing raw fuel to seep out.

    Your brief description sounds like you are smelling gasoline and believe it's in the engine compartment.

    You also can have fuel leak at the metal line from the gas tank which is under pressure by the right rear tire.

    You also can have a fuel leak at the fuel filter in that line from the tank. The fuel filter is under the rear passenger's right foot. It's about the size of a caffeine drink can (Red Bull?). the connections there might be leaking.

    At the back of the car rust is a major problem if the car doesn't get sprayed off regularly when the car gets salt underneath in the winter in the northern parts.
    There

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dake55y57dake55y57 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 LeSabre, a strange thing happened! It was running fine, took the car in for a oil change and it died. They had to push it out of the garage bay. It has battery power but will not start. I turn the key and NOT A SOUND...Garage is baffled now they think the security system is messed up. Can not find security code to reset. Does this sound right or am I getting ripped off, they been working on it 3 days and that's 3 days I have not been able to go to work, so time is money. Can anyone give me the code to pass along to the garage ? Thanks for any help.
  • danylledanylle Member Posts: 3
    i saw the gas coming out thats how i know its in the engine compartment. I got the leak fixed today turns out it was just a small clip that was broken instead of the whole piece which i also figured out what that was by searching through catalogs at my work (schucks). now I just need to figure out why my car is "sputtering" when you accelerate from a stop. since there are quite a few things that can cause it im starting small and working my way from there. If anyone has suggestions that could cause that, that I may have not thought of yet that would be helpful also. I just bought the car so im not really sure what has been done recently, I just changed the plugs and that is all I have done so far.
  • danylledanylle Member Posts: 3
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    If you turn the key to ON and the security light comes on, it should go off after 5 seconds or less if the VATS reads the right key resistance in the chip. If the wrong resistance is read, the security light flashes for 3 minutes and prevents the fuel injectors and the starter from operating. After 3 minutes it's ready to read a resistance on another key. When you turn the key to ON all the lights and indicators operate, but no crank.

    Wrong resistance is because of breaking wires in the tilt region of the steering wheel or wear on the two metal sensors that touch the contacts on the key in the lock cylinder.

    If the VATS is not flashing, it might be battery connections at the double positive cables. Sometimes corrosion between them causes funny things to happen.

    Had the security light been on or off at times while driving? Is it flashing now?

    http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dake55y57dake55y57 Member Posts: 3
  • dake55y57dake55y57 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I have forwarded it to my mechanic. Hope it works !!
  • niceride3niceride3 Member Posts: 17
    Apparently, YES it's a problem!! I have a 2003 with 78K and the cap needs to have special attention to make sure it's secure OR you WILL get a check engine light. Once the cap is secure, the warning will go away after a few start-ups. And unfortunately if the gas cap needs replaced, your Auto-Zone replacement won't work....it MUST be a GM cap.

    Fred
  • bdoerrbdoerr Member Posts: 3
  • fletch14fletch14 Member Posts: 2
    2001 LeSabre limited with 109000 miles. The oil level is full and the engine runs smooth. But.... the digital readout indicates an oil pressure of 129 psi. (it also indicates "Pressure Normal", boy is it confused) The oil pres. light dosen't light up. I believe this to be the sender. Any ideas, also where is the sender?

    Another issue, with a quarter tank of fuel the guage moves back and forth from full to empty to half to a quarter after we get under way then finally settles down. Another sensor??
    Thanks for any help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Some people have had a failure of the pressure sensor and get that high reading. You would need to verify that the reading changes when removing the wire from the sensor and/or making a direct connection. You would need to check a factory service manual to verify proper tests.

    The pressure sensor is above the oil filter (remove oil filter). People with some undercar ability have replaced their own sensor.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • niceride3niceride3 Member Posts: 17
    The wandering gas gauge is a typical problem that plagues Buicks.

    The high pressure might just be when the engine is cold. Look at your pressure reading again after the engine is at operating temp.
    I get a similar "high" reading when engine is cold.

    Fred
  • fletch14fletch14 Member Posts: 2
  • cockneyrebelcockneyrebel Member Posts: 2
    hi,i'm in cambridge in the united kingdom,been left a 1992 le sabre by a uncle previously in the usaf based at raf mildenhall since passed away.car in garage for 10 years not started.tried jump starting with another car but wont start.while checking diagnostic connector near steering column jumper link fell out,need to know which pins it connects to.I need to put it back.second problem,cut battery restraining bracket with angle grinder to fit new battery but cut through black plastic hose under battery tray,whats this tubing for?anyone help thanks Steve..in the uk and no buick mechanics here..
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    edited March 2010
    I do not know about a jumper in the assembly line diagnostic connector.
    I remember a black tube near the battery but don't recall what it was.

    What you really need is a Helm service manual for that year Buick LeSabre.

    The cover will be like this.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-92-Buick-LeSabre-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual_- - W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255967efacQQitemZ160413773740QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5f- - Literature

    I am not recommending any particular auction. I believe the manual actually is a two part set for 1993. But you are in need of a 1992. I did see one offer for an electrical manual for 1992 and that may be the other part.

    Helminc.com is the official supplier and the cost will probably be $120-$135 there exclusive of shipping to UK.

    Click on my user name for this post and you will see a box with my email in it. Send me a note and I'll suggest a couple of other help ideas for you.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dennisinnhdennisinnh Member Posts: 1
    I had trouble with an intermittent blower motor. When it wasn't working I could either hit the dashboard on the passenger side or kick the panel underneath and the motor would start off slow and then pick up speed. A similar report by ,xfilesalan on 9-25-09, report he took the motor apart and found soot. I removed my motor and notice black soot falling out. There are two screws on the bottom. I removed these screws and pried the motor assembly off about a half inch but not all the way off. The I tapped, rotated and clean as best I could with a can of air. Put the motor back and it now works as it should. Removing the motor is fairly easy. Remove the panel underneath the glovebox
    (mine had two screws holding it). With that panel removed you can see the motor. Mine had an air hose which slips onto a pipe. Remove the back screws of the motor first as the front screw will hold the motor in place. Clean the motor as described above. When installing the motor put the rubber hose on first and the front screw, then the back two screws. Took me less than one hour.
Sign In or Register to comment.