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Comments
vbspeedo
It would be on for a couple days, then go away for a few more (this has been going on for a few weeks now).
Now, today, pulled into the driveway (kinda gunned it to pull up the drive way--just screwin around with my truck), and it would not start again. No distinct whine from the fuel pump, no nothing.
The only reason I'm posting something here instead of replacing the sensor is to see if there's a common problem with blazers....
Mine is a 2000 Zr2, and has had a bit of an issue with a quick goose of the accelerator right before shutting the vehicle down. This is the third time it has happened (and yes, I've learned my lesson about hittin the gas right before I turn it off), but this is the first time I have not heard the fuel pump engage. The fuel pump is just over a year old (and I will NOT do that job again), and previously with persistence it would be up and running again. Any ideas/feedback?
Then see if the fuel pump primes up.
I really cannot think of a reason why gunning it before shut down would keep it from starting. It might make it turn over a few extra turns to clear the excess fuel, if any, but the ignition should be generating more than enough spark to overcome the small amount of extra fuel left.
i even bought the sensor just to see what it looks like
If your oil pressure sending unit is not registering, the fuel pump will prime, but not run. Safety feature to protect the engine in event of oil pressure loss.
TIA
Every morning I have to wait and turn it over 4 to 7 times to build enough pressure to start it. A mech looked at it and said there is a check valve in the fuel pump that is not holding the pressure in the line over night and I should replace the fuel pump. My question is when I look in the floor of the rear compartment there are 4 lg screws in the floor for tie downs. I am not sure if I remove the cover if there id an access panel to get at the top of the tank. Does anyone know this? or does the tank have to be removed to replace this pump.
Did the mechanic check the pressure in the fuel line to confirm that the line does indeed pressure up when the engine is running? One other issue that causes the symptoms you describe is a leaking fuel regulator or spider assembly in the manifold. In this case, you actually have excess fuel that has leaked into the intake and "flooded" the engine. Cranking will clear this fuel and allow the engine to start. It will usually only do this when the car has been sitting over night. If you start the car and drive it several times during the day, the leakdown will not be enough to notice when you start the engine. It will just run rich for a few seconds until the excess fuel is burned off.
I mention the other issues because changing the fuel pump is expensive, both in parts and labor.
And I will assume in your title that you have a 1997 Blazer? :P
OK he thought like you it may be fuel leaking thru the night into the cyl. I believe this is the first thing he checked. He did change the plugs rotor and cap stating that they were very old but never mentioned the cyl being fouled by excess gas.He said that when he pressure tested the gas line it did have enough pressure but when the truck was off it lost that pressure. His explanation was the fuel pump. If I turn it over I can hear the pump. I have to turn it over quickley about 4 to 7 times then she fires up and runs fine. It seems to be getting worse as now I amy have to use this proceedure even after a half hour of the truck being off. Please advise
Thank You
Steve
So now do I have to drop the tank to replace it. and if I do should I replace the sending unit as well. My gas gauge doesnt work but that could be almost anything. I will tell you why. I can find a replacement pump for approx $75.00 but both costs approx $135.00 to $400.00.
Also I did pour gas into it one time and that did work although it raced like crazy for a moment. but the next time I tried that it still wouldnt start
Fuel pumps from the 96-98 era in the Blazers seem to be troublesome. See a lot of posts on these. Had one fail in a '96 Sierra as well as a '04 Yukon, though both of these were a hard no-pump failure.
The sending unit for the fuel gauge is part of the pump assembly. It can be purchased separately, or together as one unit. Be sure you get the correct pump assembly. The 2door and 4door have different tanks and use different pump assemblies.
My 1997 Blazer when tested at the fuel pressure regulator valve shows pressure of only 31 psi. Once I get it started it seems to run fine. but when I let it sit overnight I have to try to get it started about 8 -15 times. My mech says its the fuel pump. couldnt it be the fuel pressure regulator? Is this where the pump pressure shoiuld be tested
Thanks
Steve
No I have not changed the fuel filter . I would of thought that the mech would of checked that first. Could it be the fuel filter?
Thanks
Steve
I can buy a after market pump only however I havent heard alot of good about them.
The truck runs oddly enough great. no loss of power and once I get it started in the am its starts all day. Thats why I was confused
I am sure you will be hearing more from me as this has really become a problem truck. Now it seems the computer will not read It will only say "not ready" I hope it just needs more miles on it to reset. If I cant get it inspected I am sure not going to put a fuel pump in it. I have already replaced the battery,starter,rear u-joints and had 3 electric shorts fixed.
Thanks for all your help and time
Steve
Well I knew I would have more questions. This is a 1997 2 dr blazer.
Instaed of droping the tank to replace the fuel pump can my mech cut an acess hole in the back deck to get at it? He says he has done this on other trucks? I believe the sending unit and pump cover are in the middle of the tank.
Thanks
Steve
Not to mention how easy it would be to damage the top of the tank while cutting the hole.
That is a evaporative vapor canister. Needs to stay connected, and no pressure or fluid is going through there. It is for "scrubbing" fuel vapors, emissions item.
I did pour gas into it but it wont even start to burn the gas off. Can A fuel pump be bad if you hear it prime? I looked at the gas reg valve and my problem is there is no rubber hose on mine. There are 2 chrome lines coming into the top of my manifold ...no rubber lines to remove and check for gas in them. Does the fuel pump have a check valve to stop gas from returning into the tank? where can I get a gas reg valve tester to check the pressure there. One last thing. When I turn the key on I hear the pump but it will continue to run for a few seconds after I turn the key off.
Could it be the brushes in the pump, and by me messing with it, jarred it enough to make it work, or could it be a wiring issue somewhere?
Hate to tell you this, but there is a new fuel pump in your (very) near future.
NEVER use dieletric silicone grease....dielectric silicone grease is a insulator. "Dielectric" means insulation. Dielectic grease will reduce the conductivity of heat sink connection and electronic connectors of all types. Silicone dielectric grease should only to be used as a sealer in the Weather tite electrical connectors and not on the metal parts of the connectors. ..
I have a '98 Blazer with about 140k on it. While I suspect a fuel prob, not sure it's a pressure issue. The pump runs the prime cycle fine, and it starts and idles with no problems, hot or cold. It has however, gotten increasingly bad with loss of power at more than about 1/2 throttle. It ran and accelerated fine as long as you stayed about 1/2 throttle or less, any more, and it would just fall on it's face. No, sputtering, no misses, just make more noise, and power would drop off dramatically. SES light was silent, though I know the fuel pump will not normally throw a code.
So, last night, I started it and let it run for a while to warm up while getting ready to go somewhere. Got in and took off, and now if you do much more than barely crack the throttle, it spits and sputters, and has no power at all. I limped it home at about 15 mph. SES did come on, though I have not been able to pull a code, since I am afraid to try to drive it anywhere which can scan it. If I had to guess, it's going to come up as a rich condition. Also have not been able to check the fuel pressure.
My thoughts are leaking CPI, MAF, TPS, or CPS/module. Throwing parts at it is not practical, nor viable with my current cash flow. Anyone have any other thoughts?
Also, I did replace intake gaskets about 2-3 months ago, during which I cleaned the throttle body, MAF, MAP, etc. The CPI did not show signs of leaking at that time.
Thanks