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Chevy Blazer Fuel Pump and Pressure Regulator Problems

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Comments

  • I had the same problem. check the ignition switch. This throws everything off when it is malfunctioned.
  • gwlanegwlane Posts: 2
    I had a mecanic install a fuel pump it lasted 1 month ,now the car dies but it will start for a short time if I pour gas down the intake , if I let the car set for 2-3 hrs it runs again for 30-50 miles, :confuse: this was an aftermarket pump ,I have changed the relay under the hood on the drivers side
  • gwlanegwlane Posts: 2
    Iam still having the same problem after changing the relay I am going to check the conection at the tank does anyone have any suggestion
  • My son has a 97 blazer that started to intermittantly die and fail to restart. The next morning, all would be fine. After 30 days, finally quit at the shop, they said to replace the fuel pump. All good for 60 days, then same problem over again. Once again, the shop said the pump was bad. Again,new fuel pump, all connections at the pump looked "like new", it ran a week, and now, the problem is back. Sometimes it will start and idle, but put it in gear (auto tranny), and it will die. Great car when it runs. Ideas?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Replace the fuel filter located on the driver's side frame. That is usually done routinely as part of a major tune up. When a in-tank fuel pump is replaced, the in-tank wiring harness and screen should also be replaced or the new fuel pump will fail just like the previous fuel pump and for the same reasons. The wiring harness is included with the better quality fuel pump kits. Otherwise you must by the harness and screen separately. Sometimes, the fuel tank must be cleaned inside or replaced.

    Has your Blazer ever run out of gas? Never run a Blazer fuel tank extremely low on fuel or run out of fuel. That unloads the fuel pump and it has been known to ruin them..
  • Both fuel pumps have had a new harness and screen. The tank appeared clean when changing the second pump, but we drained and wiped out the tank anyway. Fuel filter was changed prior to the first pump change, although gas would run freely through it. I just went out and started the Blazer and drove it around our one acre, now it seems to work fine, could the fuel pressure regulator be intermittantly faulty? My son and I appreciate your help.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Yes, the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. However, you better hope it isn't because a 1992 and later S/T-10 Blazer equipped with CPI (Central Port Injection), the fuel pressure regulator costs more than $500.00 because you cannot purchase it separately from the fuel injection spider assembly.

    Unlike a 1992 and later model, a 1987-1991 S/T-10 Blazer with TBI (Throttle Body Injection) the fuel pressure regulator costs $90.00 and can be replaced without replacing the throttle body.
  • the messages i'm replying to were posted a few months ago but i'd bet anything it's your fuel injectors. i was moving from minnesota to oklahoma. half way there in iowa my blazer started messing up. my boyfriend who was in his truck in front of me, said it was the fuel pump or injectors. i was able to make it to the next town where the mechanic replaced mine for me. good luck.
  • 1989 S-10 Blazer 2.8. Replaced spark plugs and wires. Replaced fuel pump relay (both of them). Replaced fuel filter. Car will crank but will not start. If I spray in some carb cleaner, car will "run" until carb cleaner burns off.

    How do I know if the fuel pump is bad? What do I listen for? Can I remove the line to the fuel filter and see if gas is moving through the line? A mechanic told me to hit its location with a hammer, but how is this done since it is in gas tank? And, I don't know where in the tank it is to hit the location properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The so-called mechanic who told you to "hit it with a hammer" was joking. Mechanics are not going to tell you how to fix something because finding the problem and fixing it is what they do for a living.

    A good ASE trained mechanic will know how to use fuel pressure guages and will use them to guage to test the out-put pressure of an electric fuel pump. They also can use a TBI fuel injection solenoid harness tester to find electrical or fuel system malfunctions. If the fuel pump tests good, the TBI pressure regulator may be bad. The part that may be bad is a AC Delco TBI pressure regulator...Part no. 217-2903, and costs $54.00.

    Find a ASE trained mechanic with the proper equipment. That will be expensive but not as expensive as replacing parts until you find the problem. Local independently owned mechanics cannot afford expensive test equipment, even if they knew how to use it. All those guys can do is keep replacing parts untill they finally find the problem ....at your expense. A good mechanic with the proper tools can go directly to the problem and fix it.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Excessive parts and labor cost is usually the reason we do thing ourselves. The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and it is at least a 4 hour job if you have all the parts and the tools. No special tools are required. A independent auto repair shop would charge about $260 labor plus $150 for the parts, for a total of $410 to do the job plus guarantee it for 90 days, whatever a guarantee is worth.

    If you buy the parts and do the work yourself, it will cost:
    Pump.....................$95.00
    Strainer..................$8.00
    Wiring harness.......$10.00
    Total......................$113.00

    If you do the work yourself and buy the parts, there is no guarantee, but the pay is pretty good.
  • I would assume you are just going to buy a new pump. You will need a siphon pump, you can buy a cheap orange one with 2 hoses about 5 feet long at wal mart for $10. You will also need fuel line removal sleeves and you can get those from your local auto parts store for about $10 and come in a multi size/color pack.
    The first thing you will need to do is get the fuel out of your tank, but you cant do it from the fill cap alone. under the blazer is 2 bands that wrap around the fuel tank. Drop them down as far as you can go without taking them off. Next, access your tank through the rear wheel well, remove the fill hose from the fuel tank and open up your nifty walmart siphon pump. Depending upon your level of gas, you might need a couple 5 gal cans. Remove the gas from your tank.
    Next,while your tank is lowered, remove the breather tube from the top front of the tank, its a tight squeeze and theres a spring clamp around it but you can usually just pullit off with a good tug by hand. After you do that, you will need to remove the fuel lines from your pump. Break open those new fuel line remover sleeves you bought and go back to the back under the blazer. Find the sleeve that fits around the adapters on your pump and slide the sleeve where it couples with the fuel line, there is a ring in that coupler where you need to slide the sleeve under to unlock it from the pump. The middle one may be tricky so either modify your sleeve, or I just broke the center plastic piece off my pump because it was garbage anyways. Remove the wiring harness on the pump. REMEMBER THE ORDER THESE HOSES GO BACK IN ON.
    So now,You should have fuel siphoned out, breather tube disconnected, and your fuel lines removed from the fuel pump. For easier acessability you could also drive your entire driver side up on car ramps, I just jacked up the back but its up to you. Now, lay under the fuel tank and remove the bolds the rest of the way, taking not how the brackets lock back into the chassis. the tank only weighs about 5lbs so drop it down to your chest and slide it out.
    Remove the lock ring for the fuel pump. There should be a tab on the tank that holds the ring in place, if the ring is rusty, or doesn't want to spin, use a hammer and a screwdriver in one of the slots and tap it out. Your pump will only fit in there one way because there is a notch. Break out the NEW O-ring and cover it with the lube that comes with it. Put it on the pump and and insert the pump back into the tank. Don't force it in the tank. Your O-ring may not be seated properly and you want to avoid shearing pieces off if you pinch it.
    To install just do the steps backwards.
    1. Put the tank back on the brackets and get the threads started.
    2. Attach your breather tube on the top of tank.
    3. Install your fuel lines and electrical back on pump. Did you remember the order?
    4. Re-attach your fill hose
    5.Tighten your bolts on your mounting bands

    I did it twice on mine, first one was a bad pump, but I would estimate the time on this to be an 1hr to 1.5 hours.
  • Actually, I didnt say "Hit it with a hammer." I actually said tap it with a hammer, and what im talking about tapping is the steel ring that holds the pump onto the tank. It looked by his post that he was looking to attempt it at home, which anyone can do. Sure you could spend $800 for a service station to Professionally change it out, on top of you buying a $30 gauge part number 327a-asd72 or whatever it is. but i dont think that some joe blow replacing the fuel pump is going to buy an expensive tool to spin a lock ring an inch, and i could almost bet that a mechanic would do something similar. and no, im not a mechanic, but i changed mine out and it still works ;-)
  • OK. deep breath. My mechanic has had my 98 Blazer for 7 WEEKS now. :mad: I took it in because the fuel pump had gone out (again). It had gone out about 3 years ago. Anyway, they replaced it but then had problems with power getting to the pump. They have narrowed it down to the underhood fuse block, saying that there is a short in there somewhere. They have tried to replace the fuse block twice (with 98 blazer fuse blocks) but the ones they found will not work. They are missing a pin or something. What the heck???????? Can anyone offer any help (other than finding a new mechanic). Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Seven Weeks???!!!

    Get a tow truck and save your Blazer. The guy is not a mechanic, he's a half-wit parts swapper who doesn't know what he is doing!
  • No kidding. There is NO excuse for a vehicle to be in the shop that long. If it's not done today, I am calling a tow truck tomorrow. Should have done that 4 weeks ago!!!
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    If a shop keeps your vehicle for a longer period of time than seems normal, they are usually hiding something.I have never found an automobile repair shop that would tell a customer they don't know how to fix a problem. In addition, most auto repair shops will demand a 50% deposit on any job that will cost more than the car is worth.

    For example: Any one armed blind man can replace a ABS control unit on a 1991 Blazer with 4WAL brakes but none of them will tell you they don't know how to bleed it. That job will cost about $1500 on a car that is no worth $1500.

    . Don't let the ASE Certified symbol or shoulder patch that all auto mechanics wear fool you, it means absolutly nothing. It is just a "come-on" to get your business. No one can fail the ASE Certification Test.

    Learn how to do the auto repair work yourself....because you certainly cannot beat the pay.
  • Tell me about it. They tried two different fuse boxes, and no fit. You would think that after the first one not working they would have known what they were looking for the second time. These guys do not know what they are doing. PERIOD. I agree and will learn how to do more of this stuff myself.
  • Thank you for the step by step it made it a lot easier its done runs good Thanks
  • glad it worked. Im a novice myself!
  • when you turn your key forward, but not all the way till it turns over, you will hear kind of a whizzing sound for about 5 seconds coming from the back end driver side. If you turn the key and dont hear a whizzing sound, then your fuel pump is most likely out.
  • i replace y trans mission in 1989 ranger 2.9 fi. ford upon starting it up.. it for about 30sec. after searching i found that my eec relay sw keeps blowing my 30amp fuse. also i dont hear my fuel pump cycle on.
  • Where there any recalls on this vehicle and is there still time to get them repaired from any chevy dealer? I would appreciate a response via my email address v.bunnies@yahoo.com. Thank you in advance.Devonna
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I would appreciate a response via my email address...

    That tends to defeat the purpose of Forum. Best to keep the conversation here so everyone benefits.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Well I still have yet recieved an answer to what is wrong with the vehilce, My husband has changed the fuel pump, wiring harness, spark plugs and rotary cup but it still won't start, could it be the emissions ar the computer in the vehicle?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You may want to take a look at A Quick Guide to Recalls .

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mary57mary57 Posts: 1
    My '94 Blazer Tahoe 4x4 is still running, but I noticed today that the fuel pump sound is not turning itself off once I've started the engine. Is this a warning that I'll be needing an expensive fuel pump change or is there something I can do now that would save me big bucks?
  • franbillfranbill Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 s10 blazer, 2 wheel drive 2 door. What other year fuel pumps will fit?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The fuel pump fits 1997-2001 Chevrolet Blazer and GMC Jimmy.
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