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This is the latest JD Power 3 year study - shows that for 2009 models (3 years old), Toyota got more awards (8) than any other maker. #1 Lexus (Toyota) #2 Porsche, #3 Cadillac And Toyota, #4 Scion (Toyota).
Also note - for compact cars, the Prius was #1, #2 COROLLA. That's pretty good, considering the 2009 was the first year of a new generation of Corolla.
It first started after sitting for week; when I went to back out of garage the brakes seemed to be ceased and then let go with a "twang" and the ABS/Brake Light came on. The ABS/Brake lights went on/off intermittently but then stayed on steadily after a while.
I’ve been to local mechanic four times so far as follows:
1. Diagnostic Codes: CO210 ( Speed Sensor Failure - Right Rear)and C1238 Plug to Right Rear. Replaced plug to right rear, terminal repair kit and heat shrink. Result = ABS/Brake came right back on within 5 miles.
2. Dianostic: ABS Light shows inactivity with left rear ABS sensor = Clean/apply electric grease to connections. Result = ABS/Brake light back on.
3. Diagnostic: Clean/Apply Electric Grease to both Rear ABS Sensors. Drove 400ft and ABS/Brake light on again. Also occurring after the 2nd fix is disturbing noise from front of vehicle and vibration through brake pedal with light braking at low speeds.
Mechanics now say this is the ABS module located in the engine compartment when it gets confused by the faulty ABS Sensor readings with the system thinking the rear wheels are slipping due to faulty ABS Sensor readings.
Next option being suggested is replacement of complete Rear Wheel Hub Assembly because the female connection for the ABS Sensor is totally corroded resulting in female end of ABS Sensor not seating correctly within the hub. And the wheel bearings in the hub are ok but apparently all must be replaced as one unit to resolve.
New Hub assembly from Toyota dealer quoted at $443 Retail but I'm researching a Koyo Wheel Hub Assembly -Rear (for Japanese Models) Part Number: W0133-1812555 for $172 through www.thepartsgeek.com.
It first started after the vehicle was sitting for week; when I went to back out of garage the brakes seemed to be ceased and then let go with a "twang" and the ABS/Brake Light came on.
The ABS/Brake lights went on/off intermittently but then stayed on steadily after a while.
I’ve been to local mechanic four times so far as follows:
1. Diagnostic Codes: CO210 ( Speed Sensor Failure - Right Rear)and C1238 Plug to Right Rear. Replaced plug to right rear, terminal repair kit and heat shrink. Result = ABS/Brake came right back on within 5 miles.
2. Dianostic: ABS Light shows inactivity with left rear ABS sensor = Clean/apply electric grease to connections. Result = ABS/Brake light back on.
3. Diagnostic: Clean/Apply Electric Grease to both Rear ABS Sensors. Drove 400ft and ABS/Brake light on again. Also occurring after the 2nd fix is disturbing noise from front of vehicle and vibration through brake pedal with light braking at low speeds. Mechanics now say this is the ABS module located in the engine compartment when it gets confused by the faulty ABS Sensor readings with the system thinking the rear wheels are slipping due to faulty ABS Sensor readings. Next option being suggested is replacement of complete Rear Wheel Hub Assembly because the female connection for the ABS Sensor is totally corroded resulting in female end of ABS Sensor not seating correctly within the hub. And the wheel bearings in the hub are ok but apparently all must be replaced as one unit to resolve.
New Hub assembly from dealer quoted at $443 Retail but I'm researching a Koyo Wheel Hub Assembly -Rear (for Japanese Models) Part Number: W0133-1812555 for $172 through www.thepartsgeek.com.
I think it's a suspension issue. I hear a loud clunk when the (front, I believe) tires hit a bump or pothole in the road while breaking. It sounds a little wobbly. And the brake pedal itself will shake violently. I've driven many types of cars over the same bumps in my road that 90% of the time cause this sound to happen in the Corolla without a single issue. No clunk or pedal shake. The dealership said it's the Corollas "superior" abs system in new models. Since the car has been in the shop several times I've driven many 2010 and 2011 toyotas (scion xd, prius, etc) and never got that bizarre sound. My moms 06 civic or 10 legacy with abs don't either.
For the past few days I've noticed that after starting the car, the first few times I hit the brakes there is a significant "grinding" noise coming from them. Felt like the pads/rotors might come apart.. After the brakes are applied a few times, the noise disappears and the car drives normally. Is this an issue? Has anyone else encountered this problem before?. yesterday for the first few brakes there was a significant "grinding" noise. I parked the car for two hours then took a drive for 3 minutes. It was perfect and normal.
Should I take out and clean all brake parts ?
Disk rotors can develop a thin layer of rust overnight that gets rubbed off after a few stops.
This is normal.
New cars that sit in front dealership for weeks can develop "lot rot", not so good on a test drive.
Does anyone know what could cause that problem? Brake pedal shaking and an audible shudder under the car when either going over bumps or hitting potholes above 10 mph or so?
Civic or Fiesta - check Consumer Reports first.
It just seems odd that I have driven a handful of other vehicles with ABS and stability/traction control (thank the dealership rentals for all that experience! Scion xD, 2 different Priuses, and a Tacoma) over the same bumps with no pedal shake and no weird sounds coming from the suspension. But, what do I know.
Past Saturday I took a ride and found that with end of every stop there was significant grinding noise. I took to the nearest firestone shop. Replaced front pads with Wagner Ceramic for $105+ Tax (after $20 mail in rebate). All the noise is gone... The pads are quiet.
Probably should just go ahead and switch mine out now. Ugh.
My car was bought on 3/31/10 made on 3/3/10 at NUMMI (last month they built cars there). This was about 1 or 2 months AFTER Toyota said we have stopped production lines to change the floor mats and install the gas pedal shim/shave the gas pedal. So, what do I get in the mail about a month after purchase? Bring your car in for the recall. Grrrrrr.
The it had the EPS issue. And now with 15.5K on it the brake pads have developed 'pad shift' which three dealers have looked at and said it's normal. Really? My car making a clunking noise every time I back up and go from reverse to drive is normal? Uh, OK. I will remember that the next time I buy a non-Toyota made car....
Maybe Toyota missed the point as to why people buy new cars. It is NOT so they can constantly bringing them back in for 'service' or 'fixes' every 6-9 months. It's supposed to be a reliable commute car. Ha!
Brake pads, EPS, water pumps, special oil filter wrench, etc.,......what a turd this model year has become IMO.
water pump transmission have been replaced burns oil tires and brakes have bought toyota for years this is my last one.
For the past few weeks on cold starts. I turn the ignition and as soon as the motor kicks in, there is this loud grinding/rattling sound for about one or two seconds. It only seems to do it when the motor has been off for at least a couple of hours. The sound went away for few days.. then it came back.. The degree of noise depends on the length of time it has been off (i.e. it is usually longest and loudest in the morning, shortest when you start up again after few hours).
I found below TSB.
link title
Did any one of this forum experienced this problem ?. How long it took to fix ?
Called Toyota and I was advised it would cost $280.00 to service. Booked it in for the service then Toyota asked if I was sure I wanted to have the a/c repaired as they could not find anything wrong with it. Well I agreed to see how it goes and try it out for a few days. The problem continued and I booked the my car in again for the a/c repair and oil change.
Received a call from Toyota again that there is nothing wrong with my a/c and I was only billed for new oil change .
The same problem continues took my carback to Toyota the cold air works but agree it’s fine in the early morning when it’s not hot and you don’t need much air. But if my car stands in the sun all day and you get into at 4:pm in the hot summer afternoon the a/c just cannot cool my car anymore like it used to. So drove the 25 miles home with nonfunctioning A/C direct to Toyota they took my car to the back and again called me to the back and they somehow managed to get it to blow cold again better than what it was but not really like when I had my car for the first three years (only 21000 miles driven.)
They asked me if my car had been in an accident which it has not. They still insist that they cannot find anything wrong with my cars a/c and if I continue to have problems I must bring my car back to them. I feel that I’m am going insane with dealing with Toyota not to mention the time wasted taking it to them for three times already.
Clearly there is a problem with the thermostat and Toyota keep on doing the sidestep in committing to do any repairs. I used to be a proud and satisfied Toyota customer but not anymore.
How do I get a car with a/c that works ? trade it in and buy a new car ?
This situation is so ridiculous !! so much for Toyota’s five year warranty that I paid an additional $2,000 .00 for
Anyone with a similar problem ?
http://www.empirepao.com/tsb/T-SB-0384-09.pdf
Just called today morning.. the mechanic is still looking at the car...
I am thinking like as soon as I get the car back.. I will trade in for a new Camry. I am afraid this one.. also after driving for a while grr.. grr.. grrr noise seems to come from the water pump assembly ..
How long did your dealer took to diagnose & fix ?
How do I force the dealer to perform the TSB on my vehicle? No use of calling Toyota..
If you plan to trade your car in, as a mechanic, I would refer you to a Honda dealer or private owner. I always have, and always will own a Honda. Parts are cheap, available and long-lasting. Honda also continue to hold the highest resale value. Something to think about if you don't plan on owning a car forever.
PS-I do NOT work for Honda. This is not a plug.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
This is the difference between the two dealers. My dealer actually looked out for me where as your dealer couldn't be bothered.
I did show a mechanic (friend) checked whole system, nothing wrong. He said might be some thing out of position inside the engine, also mentioned about this pulley. Contacted regional office, they recommended to check with another dealer.
Toyota dealer quoted 10,600 (2009 with 23K miles). I like the car, quiet, smooth and 35mpg highway. I will wait for 2014 corolla or buy 2013 Accord. For Honda, Material quality is excellent but road noise is still major issue. I am leaning toward owning a Honda for the fist time
I am not a Toyota owner. But my neighbor is having the same exact issue during dewy mornings or after a rain with her corolla (late 90? model). She would crank the starter 50 times or more before it gets going. This repeated starting attempts are very annoying and I almost want to volunteer to fix her corolla so I don't have to see her having the starting issue.
I had exactly the same symptom with Volvo 740. During the wet weather it wouldn't start. But later in the day it would start up like nothing happened, and once it starts up the car ran fine without any issue whatsoever. But the morning after the rain was the worst. I was expecting not to start on those mornings.
The solution with Volvo 740 was Fuel Pump Relay. The Relay will short with excess moisture, hence the fuel pump will not work. As the day warm up, the moisture disappears and the relay will function properly.
I replaced the fuel pump relay on that Volvo, and the problem was gone. Gone forever.
For your info. In Toyota vehicles, Fuel Pump Relay is called Circuit Opening Relay. The relay costs less than $10. Even if it doesn't work, it's worth a try, don't you think?