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Comments
I am from GM Customer Service. I would recommend at least taking it to the dealership and have the vehicle diagnosed. That way you’re not guessing what the problem is, and you can figure out how to proceed from there. Thank you.
Mariah GM Customer Service
thanks for the advice but we did take it to the dealer when the ignition switch was replaced and they couldn't find any codes or anything else wrong. they told us the only thing they could think of was the ignition switch. 500.00 and one month later here we are again. we got the car to start this morning with an ignition fuse, but as soon as the car warmed up the acceleration problem started again. we called our dealer everyone is scratching they're heads. so if anyone out there has any clues we would be happy to be enlightened. so far we have replaced the starter relay, the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch and the mass air sensor
ed
And it's free.
Thanks.
I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Because you just recently purchased the vehicle, have you taken the vehicle back to the dealership to have them look at it? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
It sounded like maybe a fuel pump issue but that checks out ok.
I replaced the plugs, and wires a few months back, new EGR valve and MAF.
There are no codes at this time.
One more thing, I have been looking for vacuum leaks but really do not know where to start.
Anyone have any ideas.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks
Thanks for your help.
I can't believe I can't find that thing to do a simple test.
Thanks for your help. It looks like a tow to the shop!!
The manuals show the IAC attached to the throttle body but not in this case. There is a black cylinder about 3 " long on the left side of the throttle body with wires but that is mounted to the TB with 4 bolts, and a small black sensor on the right side which I believe is the position sensor.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Again thanks for your quick responses. Call AAA to get it towed in.
I don't think this part is causing your problem. It sounds like a lack of fuel or spark. but if you are misfiring it usually is a timing issue, or flat cam, or cheap gas, or timing chain slipped. let me know your findings.
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Tricia, GM Customer Service.
He is going to canvas other Yukon dealer shop foremen for simailar problem and what they did about it. Dealer is one of the largest in the DFW area.
I am asking this Forum for your imput. Any suggestions will be appreciated and shared with the dealership foreman.
If we could look further into this for you, we're available to do that. Please send us an email with more information about the situation as well as the last 8 digits of your VIN.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
If you are sure it is a fuel delivery problem there are a few things to look at. Mind you, 20-25psi is 'okay' for idling, but no way you are going to get going at that pressure. As an FYI, the minimum freeflow fuel pressure for the fuel pump is 85 psi. The maximum fuel pressure on this unit is 100psi. This is based on Autozones OEM replacement (with new wiring harness) for a 2003 Yukon (and Denali) with the 5.3L (or 6.0L) motor. If you would like to do some research on it, it is an Airtex Master/Fuel Pump E3508M
1. Fuel filter. Seems obvious, but you'd be surprised how much damage a little $10 filter can cause when it stops fuel flow, this SHOULD have been replaced with the fuel pump and should be regularly changed every year.
2. Fuel pressure regulator. Usually vaccuum controlled, if there is a rip in the airline the fuel pressure will not increase to the engine block when throttle is applied.
Those are the cheap ones.
3. Wrong Fuel Pump or bad wiring. There shouldn't be a wrong fuel pump, with 2 shops, but there is a problem with the OEM wiring harness that causes damage to the connector and burn marks. The fuel pump i purchased for my denali about 6 months ago came with a new wiring harness which I had to retrofit onto my old wiring harness and cut some of the bad, brittle wiring off. The bad wiring could be causing resistance on the power to the pump, causing it to spin much slower than it should and not generating the pressure the vehicle needs.
4. PCM/ECU .... or electronic throttle system. If those are bad, you should be pulling a code on your computer, but if the computer is bad, then it may not send a code.
I wish you luck in your endeavors