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Mazda CX-9 Problems

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Comments

  • gahogsgahogs Member Posts: 15
    bonan2,

    Thanks for sharing. In response to your question, I still have the engine knock problem and am going to take it into the dealership for a third time to try to repair the vehicle.

    On the first trip to be serviced, the dealership said it was the brake booster connect rattling. While this made absolutely no sense to me, I let them have their chance to repair the problem. As you may expect, this did not fix the engine knock. On the second trip, I decided to be more proactive, and printed out the TSB pertaining to loss of power up steep hills. I had hoped the reprogramming of the codes would help the engine, and if I were lucky, would eliminate the engine knock. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem either.

    As for the noise, it definitely sounds like classic engine knock and occurs every time the throttle is applied when the engine is under load. The knock routinely occurs in two circumstances:

    1. Going up a steep hill
    2. Trying to accelerate when the automatic transmission has it in too low of a gear.

    It also seems to be a little more evident/obvious when the vehicle is cold; however, once the vehicle warms up, the engine knock does still occur. It does NOT occur when driving on level terrain, regardless if the engine is cold or warm (or at least it is not loud enough to hear inside the cabin when driving). Of course when driving on level terrain, the engine is not under much of a load either.

    Similar to you, we did not notice the engine knock for the first few months we owned the vehicle. That is something I would have immediately picked up on, particularly when test driving the vehicle. The symptoms did not develop until we had driven the vehicle a few months.

    As stated above, I plan to take the vehicle back to the dealership a 3rd time. Thanks to everyone who has replied since I posted my original thread a few weeks ago. As I posted before, all I can offer from my end is that the first time I took it to the dealership they did offer the passing comment that another CX-9 had been taken in to be serviced reporting the same problem. Based on some of these replies, perhaps this problem is on a larger scale than just this thread. Perhaps it only applies for a certain period of vehicles coming off the line.

    I will keep everyone updated on my developments. Please do the same.

    Also, jeebert2: Thanks for the update. Hopefully the VVT actuator is the fix (a long term fix in particular -- it will be interesting to see if you develop the same symptoms after driving a few months, as I originally experienced in my vehicle). I will pass the VVT actuator information along to my dealership. At $2K per vehicle, that is a hefty repair charge. If this is on a larger scale, Mazda could have some problems with costs being that high to repair vehicles that experience this problem.
  • bonan2bonan2 Member Posts: 3
    Mazda serviced my engine noise last week. Tech rode with me so I could replicate for him. My engine noise shows up at 1600 rpm fairly consistently but is difficult to hear with other noise sources around. Anyways, tech heard it a couple times. He called mazda tech help. They pointed out the brake booster plate rattle that has been mentioned in this forum before. The procedure calls for another fastener to better afix the plate to the firewall. Even with this additional fastener there was still metal on metal rattle. He took the plate off to further isolate...noise seemed to go away. So we decided to put foam (w/ adhesive of course) between the brake booster plate and the firewall so no more metal to metal contact. This seemed to do the trick eliminating the noise/rattle. But, liked I said the noise is difficult to hear esp. with other exterior noises. For now this is my fix. I will let everyone know if it returns. This link describes the repair (1/5/2009): http://mazdaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14870
  • jmailjmail Member Posts: 20
    I had the 2007 cx-9 touring (no bells) for about 18 months and for the most part am very happy with it.

    Recently, my fan has been going on at full blast as soon as I shut the cx-9 off. It seems to be from the center console housing the rear AC controls/vents. I have not yet taken it in since it occurs sporadically so it's pretty much impossible to replicate at any given moment. I have tried to change settings before turning the cx-9 off so I can try to figure out the cause, but I have been unable to figure out if it's being caused by certain settings. I saw an earlier post where the relay was burned and that was causing the issue. Has anyone else had the issue or any new diagnoses? Will mazda cover the fix?

    I also have a lot of wind noise from the driver door. You can hear it from about 30 mph and up. I know there was a recall a while back for a door issue, and I supposedly had that fixed, but I still hear the noise. Any one else have the issue or any thoughts?

    I plan on taking it in to the dealer, but I would like to have as much background info as I can before I do go in.

    Thanks!!!!!!
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    The door recall was for the door stopper, not for noise if I remember correctly for 2007 models.
    The A/C issue (full blasting) has been reported. Some electrical problem for sure. You should take it to dealer. If CX9 is within 36K, there is no reason that dealer won't fix it. Some dealers even give you a loaner for repair works.
  • cdlmazdacdlmazda Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2008 CX9 with around 16,000 miles. Noticed lately that when I drive over speed bumps, turn wheel while pressing brake and/or driving over bumps in the road at certain speeds, that I am hearing and feeling a knocking sound in what feels like the front right strut or brake. What could be the problem?
  • jeebert2jeebert2 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2008 with just over 18K. I had the same thing recently. I checked underneath and found that an end link to the front sway bar was loose. One of the nuts had worked its way loose. I tightened it and all is good now. If that is the case with yours you need a 17mm wrench, but you also have to have a 6mm hex key in the middle of the bolt to hold it while you tighten the nut.

    John
  • k1200k1200 Member Posts: 40
    Same here... Mine is a 2007 about 43k on it... I never abused it at all, I like the vehicle but , boy have i had some issues. That knocking noise, had a tech ride with me. He said he did not hear anything. went to another dealer... all they did was put lithium grease on anything that moved (did not help) I am not going to bad mouth the car or the techs, I do think most of them are really good, but so many times I got the run around and the electrical problems, the cd player, the ac, the interior fan that came on when you shut the car off.......... argh :-(
  • cdlmazdacdlmazda Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much for your reply!!! I was about to take it in on Tuesday to find out what was going on, but thanks to your reply I found the problem. It was not the end link or any loose nut, but it was 2 grape size rocks/pebbles that had found there way between the sway bar and the frame....unbelievable! Thanks to your reply I was checking the link/sway bar and just happened to notice the rocks.

    Thanks Again.
  • gahogsgahogs Member Posts: 15
    Folks / Update

    Unfortunatley, we are still having problems with the engine knock / rattle.
    (very good recording of engine knock / rattle noise can be found at link below)

    I have taken it to our dealership three times with no luck in fixing the problem. On the last trip, the dealership kept it for about a week and a half and concluded they could not hear the problem. They told me they had Mazda reps drive in and could not hear it either. Overall, communication to me from the dealership was very poor, but that is another story for another day. I told them I would record the noise.

    So now I have the entire thing on video, as well as a very good recording using a USB microphone fixed under the hood. For those that are interested and think they can help, you can get the recording as an attachment in my post here (noticed Edmunds doesn' t allow attachments beyond an image; otherwise, I would have just uploaded to this message):

    http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123740592

    I contacted Mazda Corporate through their 800 number earlier this week, but I have not heard anything from them since that time. They did mention they would call me to coordinate sending some folks out here to ride in the car. They said to not contact the dealer and to wait for them. I told them I had a perfect recording and video and happy to share to help them diagnose the problem, but again, I haven't heard anything yet.

    My questions are:

    What to do next?
    Does Mazda back their vehicles and support their customers?
    Any ideas on what the noise could be?
    Anyone else with this noise (some have chimed in here - thank you - is this the same noise you heard on your vehicle)?

    Any and all help / advice VERY much appreciated.
  • rudiorudio Member Posts: 2
    My engine tap does not seem to be as bad as yours, yet? I brought it in for service 4/20/09. I was told the tap is the fuel injectors. I was told they "loosen up" after a while...nothing to worry about. Not so sure about that. I will keep an eye on it.

    I did have the airbag recall fixed.

    Mazda knows about the rear fan going on when the car is shut off. There is a part to fix it but it is on back order.
  • gahogsgahogs Member Posts: 15
    Rudio: All I can offer from my problem is that it has gotten progressively worse. Hopefully your problem is unrelated... ?

    Also, I did hear from Mazda Corporate today. They are sending out a regional technical specialist on Tuesday to look at the vehicle. I have provided him with a copy of the recording and will provide him with the complete DVD + full recording on his arrival Tuesday.

    I will continue to keep everyone updated on my progress.
  • k1200k1200 Member Posts: 40
    First let me say that was a very good recording.... im not a tech and i definitely heard it. When this happens, is there a loss of power ?
    Could be a few different things... valves, rings, something thats called "piston slap"
    I hope it is something that can be resolved without much inconvenience to you. I personally have had my own issues with my vehicle, and to this day continue to have on going issues. I dont know why they cannot be resolved. I do like the vehicle..but I cannot stand the fact that every 2-3 months im in with the same or more issues. I will probably sell it in a few months
    good luck keep us informed
  • gahogsgahogs Member Posts: 15
    k1200:

    Thanks for the thoughts. As for loss of power -- we no longer experience any, yet the engine knock/rattle remains.

    On the second submission to the dealership, they uploaded the updated codes with the TSB related to the loss of power. I was hopeful this would remedy the knock / rattle as it occurs when the vehicle is under load, but unfortunately it did not. The recording was taken after the codes were updated in the vehicle.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    The TSB on "Loss of Power on Climbing Hills" is merely setting the ATF temperature limit to a higher value so that it does not go into safe-mode so readily and easily on climbing hills. It has NOTHING to do with engine at all.

    Wish you the best of luck in finding the cause and fix it. Keep us posted here.
    I am betting on the VVT cam.
  • shokshok Member Posts: 2
    I noticed the leak when I did my first oil change at 3500 miles on the passenger side (right side) of the engine. First I thought it was an engine leak (oh no!). This is a brand new CUV, and hearing others CX-9's problems, it looks like I made the wrong decision, I hope not. I was thinking of getting MDX but it's about 10k more. And I heard a lot of good things about the CX-9 being compared to MDX and QX7. I'm a bit concern because I live 150 miles away from the closest MAZDA dealership. I took my CX9 for repair and saw the job report on the computer which cost almost a $1k replacing the Power Steering Pump. It took a day to repair but was provided with free transportation. It's a hassle knowing each repair will cost me gasoline and 300 miles on my CX9. I love my CX-9 and so far, that's the only problem I had. I already drove my CX9 to South Dakota and California with no problem. I live in Colorado. It holds well in snow as it was snowing hard in the mountain when I brought it home new. Im not too concern about the vibrating side mirror, I did notice it, but my focus is what's ahead of me. Im concern about Engine related problems.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    MDX? Honda has a serious transmission issue. My friend called me the other day about his failed transmission on his Odyssey @ 70K miles.
    Mine Odyssey's AT was shot at 80K with all services on schedule w/ Honda dealers. Honda is still learning how to made transmission. 5-Speed? When the whole world is moving to 6-/7-/8-speed.
    I am glad you did not choose QX7. Audi is not exactly know for relibility. Check the ConsumerReports. CX9 is rated mostly red with 1 black hollow circle (means average in hardware). On par with most Toyota vehicles.
    Mine had a window styrofoam issues. Other than that, perfect after 16000 miles.
  • gahogsgahogs Member Posts: 15
    Engine Knock Update:

    The Mazda regional technical specialist came to my house on Tuesday and rode up the hill with me. I used the same setup (video camera inside vehicle + USB Microphone underhood), and we got another clear recording of the engine knock (multiple occurances). He is now comfortable with the problem and is working with Mazda engineering for a solution. He is going to coordinate a trip back to my house with a Mazda engineer to try resolve the issue with my vehicle.

    As for the problem, here is a preliminary diagnosis for those that think they may have experienced similar problems:

    Turns out the CX-9 has a knock sensor, which is not uncommon in modern engines. However, and based on my understanding, the knock sensor in the CX-9 doesn't activate until the engine is warm. So there is potentially an operation window by which the CX-9 runs without the benefit of a knock sensor controlling the engine knock (window of time being from the moment the vehicle is started until the time the thermostat opens and the operating temperature is reached, denoted by a reading halfway between the C and H on your temperature gage).

    If your engine has the same problem as mine and driving on level terrain while the engine is cold, you probably won't notice a problem; however, when the engine is under load, like when going up a hill (can even be a relatively slight hill) and if the engine is cold and has the same problem as mine, there is an opporutnity to hear engine knock. In my case, since my engine is cold when going up a sustained hill, the engine knocks substantially (listen to the recording on my original post above). Once the engine is warm (i.e. turning around and driving up the same hill again once the thermostat is open), the noise is less noticeable as the knock sensor is activated and trying to do its job to reduce engine knock.

    As for the second observed failure mechanism (i.e. the brief engine knock noticed when cresting small hills, regardless if warm or not), that could be by design. For better engine efficiency and more power, some vehicles are designed to operate near the detonation limit (limit at which engine knock occurs). Only Mazda knows how much they pushed that limit for the CX-9. If the engine is warm, and in the case of my CX-9, this results in periodic knock throughout any routine drive when under load as the knock sensor kicks in and adjusts (retards) the spark timing slightly to supress / eliminate the engine knock. I found this very surprising. The USB microphone really tells the tale, as there were multilple instances the microphone picked up on engine knock that lasted about a second or two well after the vehicle was warm, just to have the knock go away due to the function / operation of the knock sensor. Again, I was surprised how often the USB microphone picked up on the knock after the engine was warm -- many more instances than I could hear / detect when inside the vehicle driving; however, I was able to detect a few of them, as supported by my verbal acknowledgement of the engine knock recorded on film while driving the vehicle, which coordinated very well with the clear instances of engine knock recorded by the USB microphone. Naturally all of these instances occured when the vehicle was under load.

    The problem with engine knock is that it represents abnormal combustion, which can lead to problems ranging from loss of power to a reduction in engine life. For those that are interested, I thought this article explained engine knock and knock sensors fairly well:

    http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/PICS/...etonation.html

    That is the latest. I will keep everyone updated on my progress.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    gahogs,
    If knocking is indeed the issue, you can try octane 91 for one tank, and see what will happen. If it goes away or improves dramatically, then knocking can be confirmed. Then comes the question: how come other people don't have it (like me)? I get on highway within 1 mile from my house. Hard acceleration is needed to get on it and the merging is short (i.e. get to 65mph pronto!).
    You have may a bad knock sensor in one of the cylinders (or more).
    Keep us posted. Thanks.
  • ewsncewsnc Member Posts: 14
    Unfortunately my still new 2009 CX-9 GT (with only 3k miles) has developed a faint, metallic knocking noise and its audible when the car goes over rough roads. The occurrence is sporadic but 100% associates with road irregularities. Had a dealer checked out but couldn't find what causes the noise. They tightened up sway bar bolts (even they were not loose) as suggested in this thread and even other suspension bolts (not loose either) but didn't help. Anybody has similar experience/problem?
  • k1200k1200 Member Posts: 40
    I have a 07 CX9 and yes there is a knocking noise when you travel on roads that are not smooth. Now I do expect to hear some noise, but it almost sounds like the lugs are not tight. (they are) They even replaced the shocks /struts at 5000 miles, this did not help. The front brakes still make a loud click every time you pull off or go to slow down. And as I have said before I do not abuse my vehicle at all, and I am the only driver. Even the tech guy laughs when he see me with my vehicle...other than regular maintenance i bought the vehicle in FEB 07 and for all the problems i had, I was there 5/9/07 11/13/07 11/13/07 11/20/07 2/26/08 7/16/08 9/11/08 9/15/08 10/27/08
    1/8/09
    these were all problems that had many visits to the dealership...........
    drivers seat adjusts by itself while driving,
    turn off the car the internal fan comes on full blast for 6-7 minutes no matter what time of year it is ....killed my battery twice
    loud clicking noise with brakes,
    knocking noise front end all of the time
    turn off the car the drivers side window goes down
    cd player needed to be replaced (2 days after delivery)
    front rotors had to be replaced 3 months after delivery
    I am not making this up, I guess I got the one that was abused at the assembly line. Hanging on to it until the winter, then I will sell it or trade it for something else. Its a shame, cause I know Mazda make very reliable vehicles, my brother has one and has no problems...... oh well
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    And I believe most of the problems you experienced are related to an electric short somewhere that the mechanic/tech has not been able to nail it down.
    If I were you I would find another more capable dealer or call Mazda directly.
    A spuradic short could cause all kinds of strange problem in the system. :mad:

    Very likely than not, it could be one of those port-installed accessories:
    auto-dimming mirror, sat radio, iPod interface, remote start, etc. One that relates
    to wiring but not installed at Mazda factory. (Actually at port of entry - LA for west coast)

    Mine has 17,000 miles on it. Only 1 problem with window refused to roll down (styrofoam got loose inside - easy fix at oil change). Mine was probably made on Monday when the worker was still drunk from Japanese sake. Just kidding. ;)
  • deltaromeodeltaromeo Member Posts: 6
    2008 CX-9 with over 3,000 miles. When running AC with recirculation button, there is a musty or moldy smell. The dealer said that it was the cabin filter behind the glove compartment, and their tech changed it. Unfortunately, they also added an equally foul smelling perfume substance to hide the original smell. Now, we have to deal with the unpleasant perfume as well as the moldy odor. Apparently this happens a lot after the vehicle was sitting on the lot for many months before being sold.
    Any suggestions??
  • k1200k1200 Member Posts: 40
    I agree with you ceric, but I only wish I had those options... I do not have sat radio, ipod anything or auto dimming mirrors....I added nothing, changed nothing. I do like my Mazda, but man oh man am I tired of the quirks.
    I could use the sake' myself ;)
  • nxs138nxs138 Member Posts: 481
    This used to happen in my old car, basically the air inside the vent would condense into water and just sit there, which was a perfect situation for mold to grow (cold air inside the vent + hot, humid air from outside that makes its way into the vents = condensation).

    What I started doing was simply turn off the AC a minute or so before I would shut off the car and just blast the air on High, just to remove the cold air from the vents and minimize the chances of having condensation (leave the windows down, or else you might get condensation inside the cabin). Never had a real issue after that. I also notice that our CX-9 was starting to smell musty like your with the AC, and started doing my old routine and we haven't had an issue yet.

    You could argue that it would be better to blast hot air after shutting off the AC in order to really dry out the system, but that's a form of torture if you're sitting in the car on a hot summer day!
  • cry1raycry1ray Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2009 cx9 for 1 mo. Today I was told that loss of signal is typical on sat radio by the dealer. This happens intermittenly, not just in tunnels or under overpasses. I've rode in other cars and it doesn't happen as much. Is it the quality of the radio or they all created equal??? Anybody else with this problem. Other than that love the car.
  • htblaettnerhtblaettner Member Posts: 1
    OMG, I am new to this forum and I am so glad I'm not the only one experiencing these problems with the '07 CX-9. I thought I had purchased the lemon of the lot, but it sounds more like an epidemic vs. unique problem. I have the loud clicking noise with brakes and the internal fan coming on when I turn the ignition off.

    My lease is up next year and I was hoping to purchase it thereafter, but I think I too will be trading it in. I don't know where else to look for a reliable 7 seater. I know Toyota just came out with there's, but I'm sure it is big $$$$.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I've rode in other cars and it doesn't happen as much.

    Perhaps not as much but it does happen! My understanding is that satellite reception problems are fairly common and are caused by several factors including variable quality of antennas and receiving equipment, local repeater stations, signal quality and so on.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ewsncewsnc Member Posts: 14
    I had my CX-9 checked second time by another dealer for front knocking noise when driven on rough roads. they had my car for two days but still couldn't solve it. They called Mazda and were advised to replace struts. For me it's hard to believe brand new struts failed within 2-3k miles before tires. Seeing your post, I'm further convinced that the struts are not the source of the problem. So I asked the dealer to leave the case open for future replacement. The noise doesn't bother me that much, so I will keep driving to see how the problem develops or maybe mazda will come up with a TSB to address this. This is my first mazda and I've already started to loose faith in its reliability. So far this is the only problem I noticed and hopefully there won't be more.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    1st year production of any model has typically more issues. As production goes on, problems got solved and TSBs got issued. There are TSBs on both front and rear brakes. You should have the dealer look at them. The fan issue also is well-known to be some faulty switch. If I were you, I would have them fix them. If they couldn't, I would probably return the lease as you said.
  • wdhytewdhyte Member Posts: 92
    I *think* I have a heat problem as it sometimes gets really wiggy, quits in the middle of prompting all on its own, etc. Other times its solid. Usually good in the morning, bad in the afternoon...oh, did I mention I live in Dallas? it gets a tad warm here even in the shade (IF you can find any)...Dave ;)
  • carhunter9carhunter9 Member Posts: 8
    Just got cx9 today...
    the windshield haze does not seem to go.
    Used to my toyota...just putting full a/c on windshield removes the haze.
    But not working in cx9...any suggestions ?

    Thanks!
  • wdhytewdhyte Member Posts: 92
    Got a new problem/oddity...maybe? here's the scenario...
    just came home and had all the windows and moonroof open for breeze (2115 CT approx)...it's a wonderful 80 deg F here in Dallas (FINALLY!) so was taking advantage of it while we can! ;)
    had the A/C off, recirc off, to pull fresh/cool air in to the cabin and it was great...BUT, in th rear it was blowing at least 10 degrees hotter than the front vents. Turned the front control (and rear) all the way down as far as they'd go...was reading a setting of 60 deg for the system setting...the air coming in the front vents felt like the outside air BUT, the rear still felt warm...still at least mid 70s if not warmer...if set the system for rear control, it got even hotten...shut off the rear control, and it was cooler but nowhere near what we were feeling in the front.
    ideas? suggestions? TIA...Dave
  • deltaromeodeltaromeo Member Posts: 6
    No definite suggestions. But I am not sure there is a problem. (I know this is not what you want to hear.)
    We live in Colorado (not always cooler but lower humidity). We notice that the front vents (with a/c and heat off and temps down to 60) blow air that is never as cool as the outside air. The rear vent system blows air that is slightly warmer than the front vents. We just assumed that the rear vent was not really designed to vent air from outside, but to assist cooling the rear by a/c or heat the rear with active heat ( both of which it does very well).
    We don't know for sure but have guessed or assumed that Mazda's design is flawed. The front vents are probably influenced by the heat from the engine and the rear vent has an additional distance to transmit the air; therefore, allowing it to warm even more. We have learned to live with it. It does help a lot to open the roof. But we run the a/c almost all the time. If your rear vent does not cool with a/c then there is a problem. Our grandchildren frequently turn the rear off when I run the a/c because it is too cold for them.
    We have owned many vehicles and never noticed a problem with the outside air until the CX9.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    My question is for ceric, mazdatechie, or anyone that has access to a shop manual. I just bought this used 2007 CX9 and I noticed that the glove compartment has a "damper" on the right side that attaches to the door of the glove compartment to perhaps prevent the door from just flopping open. Mine is unattached and I tried pulling on the little arm to re-attach it but then noticed that it may be broken. Is this damper easily replaceable by removing the glove compartment door off and accessing it that way or does it require removing half the dash to get to it? Any help would be appreciate it. Thanks!
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    On the right side, there are two things that prevent the glove compartment door from dropping, the stopper at the top, and the linkage arm/damper(?) at the bottom.
    I assume that you're talking about the lower one. I don't know what you meant by "broken", but mine (supposedly not "broken") is merely hooked on to the round head on the door so that it holds on to it. It is quite loose (wiggling) but it does the job it is supposed to. There is no "damping effect" as far as I can feel.

    Anyway, if indeed it was broken, the dealer would know if there is a separate part number for the linkage arm. If not, you will need to buy the entire ensemble. That would cost you $$$.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Thanks ceric, I should have been more descriptive. The little arm that come out of the dash and would clip in to the round little head molded into the door is what is unattached. I pulled the little arm out because it was tucked into the slot in the dash to connect it to the door but I noticed that the end of the arm has a sort of thin plastic swivel looking piece that I would imagine would go around the tiny head on the door and snap to lock it in place. Is this the way its suppose to be or is this piece broken?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Did anyone find out the culprit or did Mazda issue a TSB for the front knocking noise when going over bumps? Seems that my 07 CX9 has it as well.

    My previous 06 Mazda5 had the same noise and was fixed via a very well known TSB for Mazda5's about the noise in the fromt or rear suspension. The culprit was the sway bar bushings. Mine were replaced and I never hear another noise out of them. I wonder if the same applies here to our CX9's??? If that is the case, is Mazda contracting the same vendor to make its sway bar bushings for its entire line-up???

    Any help?
  • juliwhjuliwh Member Posts: 1
    I bought at 2008 CX-9, 33000 miles, about 3 weeks ago. When we went to the mountains last week, there was a problem with the brakes going down hills in all of the I-70 traffic. They were pulsing, that is the only word I can think of to call it. Before this I had a Subaru Outback, that also did this, but not until there was 75,000 miles on it. Has this happened to anyone else? :confuse:
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    I take it you bought your CX9 used... If you bought your CX9 from a dealership take it back to them and have them check you brakes. Sounds like they have to resurface or replace your rotors as well as inspect or replace your brake pads. If you bought it from a private party looks like you will be dishing out some money to replace the above mentioned parts. Good luck!
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Are you sure that the problem (pulsating braking) only happens going down hills?
    If the rotors needs resurfacing, the problem will show on any road surface, not just down hills. It could also be the tires getting bold. The OE tires (if still on your CX9 - Dueller H/L 400) are so-so tires (to put it mildly). It has wear index of 260, which means it lasts about 26K miles in my book.

    The bottom line is
    - check the tires if the problem only happens on down hills
    - check the rotors (need resurfacing - so-called warped rotors, a misleading term)
    if the problem shows on any surfaces.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Ceric....Mazdatechie......

    Any help on this issue???
  • rpoddarrpoddar Member Posts: 5
    We have a new 2009 CX9 GT AWD, and recently we took it to San Francisco. We noticed that when stopped at a light on a steep hill (going uphill), the car starts to roll backwards when we took out foot off the brakes. Is this normal, or is there a way to stop it? FYI in my 99 BMW 528i, we never had this problem. I thought AWD would never allow this kind of issue to occur.

    Thanks
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    AWD has nothing to do with rolling backwards. Keep your left foot on the brake and give the engine a little gas to counteract gravity when releasing the brake. Some automatic transmissions simply roll back easier than others due to engine and transmission setting. There is no way to manually select AWD.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Use foot brake may help.
    Hand-brake would have been better/easier, but most SUV/CUV don't use hand-brake (occupy center console space)
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    Sorry to keep bringing this issue up, but I want to see if I can get an answer or perhaps to see if someone else is experiencing this as well, the noise is driving me crazy.

    My 2007 CX-9 2WD Touring makes a crunch/squeek noise that seems to come from front suspension area. It seems to make it only when traveling at slow speeds over speed bumps and going in and out of driveways. The noise may be there all the time but it is only noticable when driving slow under the circumstances mentioned. My 2006 Mazda5 had this similar noise and Mazda had a TSB for sway bar bushings which remedied the problem, but I cannot find any TSB relating to this concern on my CX-9.

    Does anyone know what the problem is or the solution to it? Is anyone else experiencing this noise/sound?
  • howardruhowardru Member Posts: 155
    Mine is driving me crazy with a sqeeky noise coming from the sub-woofer area when going over bumpy old roads (lots of those here in New England).

    I lubricated every seat bolt in the back of the car yesterday and finally narrowed it down to somewhere below where the sub-woofer sits in the trunk. When I bang on the cargo mat above the speaker, I heard the squeek!

    Ceric, do you have the instructions for removing the plastic cover over the sub-woofer?
  • k1200k1200 Member Posts: 40
    I have a 2007 CX9, and I know I have posted many problems I had, mine is a AWD and that sound drives me crazy to put it best it honestly sounds like I am piloting an old wooden boat. When I turn at slow speeds 20 mph or less it sounds like boards bending loudly. I have taken it to 2 different dealers and what I get back is a vehicle covered in lithium grease and they say "nothing is wrong" I still have the issue of turning the car off and the interior fan front and rear come on full blast (even though they were never on to start) and runs for about 4-6 minutes. It does not matter what the temp. outside is.
    The mechanic told me "its the car trying to (auto cool) itself" ....note to mechanic there is no such feature on this vehicle...and if it did why do it when its 31 degrees outside ?
    I could go on and on, but I am not here to badmouth mazda.... I just wanted the things fixed... :-( (C)ar (X)perimental 9
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    K1200,

    I guess we will continue in the search for the mysterious squeek/crunch noise resolution, but to help you out on your blower fans coming on after turning off your vehicle here is what I posted on the ventilation forum:

    "My CX9 is out of warranty so I asked my buddy that works at Riverside Mazda to hook me up with a copy of TSB 07-008/09. I read through it and was very simple and straight forward. I bought the relay that the TSB said to replace (part# G115-67-730) replaced it (under hood relay box closest to the driver's side fender) and up to right now no more occurences"

    There are three fuse/relay boxes under the hood. 1) small slim one on the very front attached by the radiator. 2) Main fuse box on driver's side (the biggest of the three). and 3) Relay box right next to the main fuse box closest to the driver's side fender.

    Relay box #3 is where the two relays for the front and rear blowers are. They are the biggest realys in there and they are probably black in color. Both relays are the same number, so be sure to buy 2 of the part number I provided and replace them both. The new relay should be a light blue color. Hope this helps you.

    Now lets get back to trying to figure out our suspension noise...Ceric? Mazdatechie?

    HELP!
  • chucky2chucky2 Member Posts: 8
    My 2009 CX-9 has 3500 miles on it. The transmission already went bad. First my dealership says it's the transmission control module, now they claim it needs a whole new transmission! It has been in the shop for 3 weeks, now I get to wait for a new transmition to come in. Anyone else have transmission problems. Zoom, zoom...what a joke.
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