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I just got new snow tires last week. Went to play in the snow this AM -- I live near Boston. Much more traction than the lame all seasons...
I drive on a couple of miles of dirt road, heavily rutted and pot-holed - so it's very noticeable to me until the interior warms up and the materials expand.
The noise I'm talking about definitely comes from the dash/windshield area. Not the door.
Let me know if you find a better solution.
Appreciate the reply!
s. johnson
By the way, I have the vibration/buzz in the brake pedal problem too. I wonder if I should try to get that fixed or just live with it since it doesn't bother me that much.
Why wait till you are stuck to enagage 4WD? Wouldn't it be a better idea to engage 4WD before the trip if there is even a remote possibility of getting stuck? I would think the slight penalty in gas mileage would be well worth it.
After days of rain here in California, if you need to pull off the highway onto the dirt shoulder, you may find yourself up to your hubs in mud. Too late then. This is the slowest engaging 4WD vehicle I've ever owned. The colder the weather, the longer the hookup to 4WD takes. I've had to back up as it takes up to a 1/4 mile to engage. This is ridiculuous.
Needless to say, I keep it in fulltime 4WD now.
$600 over invoice.
2005 4Runner Sport 4WD V8 Dealer Invoice is
$27,971.00
Remaing #'s are Dealer Invoice Costs
JBL CD/FM & 10 speakers -$476.00
Daytime running lights - $32
Double Deck Cargo - $100
Sunroof - $720
Rear Spoiler - $160
Valor Exhaust Tip - $42
Door Sill Enhancements ACSCO - $109
Preferred Accessory Package - $220
Destination Charge - $565
TDA - $609
Gasoline - $6
Dealer Hold Back - $324
TOTAL - $31,983.00
Hope this help you buy 2005 4Runner. I have a
copy of the invoice if you want to see it just email
me.
I also recommend reading http://www.fool.com/
car/car.htm !!! Especially the FAX war for obtain
Qutoes... helps!
Congrats on the new 4Runner (and thanks for posting in Toyota 4Runner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience too).
Steve, Host
It will engage per your recommendation in warm weather most of the time. But in cold weather, if the vehicle isn't moving it will not engage. This reminds me of my '91 Chevy with a similar issue. Some kind of solenoid had to heat up b4 the 4WD would lock in. Warn came out with a solenoid that worked instantly. Anyway, it still takes longer to engage 4WD than any other vehicle I've owned, so I just keep it in fulltime 4WD.
Today my dealer completed my vehicle's scheduled 30,000 mile servicing. The total cost was $400.00 after redeeming a '10% off' coupon. Not a bad price for all of the work that was done, and my Toyota Platinum Extended Warranty entitled me to a free loaner vehicle.
i sent a message yesterday but it is not shown today?
my message was that i wanted to find out if any of the readers have experienced using the tornado/cyclonefuesaver.the suppliers claim that the apparatus will increase the fuel economy up to 28%and the power by up to 13%.the testimonials suggest the same.has anyone used this apparatus on a 2003 or newer 4runner in either the v6 or 8
sam20, "Ask the Forums Hosts" #3135, 31 Jan 2005 12:47 am
Welcome to Edmunds; it takes a little while to figure out the various ways to navigate around the boards.
Steve, Host
I believe "Consumer Reports" tested this gadget and gave it a negative rating. I'll check to see if I can find it in my back issues and will get back to you if I do. Bob.
Could not find it. I saw an article about it in some magazine. However, check out the "Acessories & Aftermarket section. You will find four pages of opinions on these fuel saving gadgets. The Tornado is mentioned quite a few times and has received negative comments. Bob.
1. Per the owner's manual What is the breakin interval (number of miles)
2. What are Toyota recommendations regarding maximum speed, driving patterns etc during the breakin period
3. Number of miles before the first oil change
Thanks
Here is the break in recommendations for a 4 Runner V6 which should be simular to your V8.
BREAK IN PERIOD: Drive gently and avoid high speeds. The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But following a few simple tips for the first 1000 miles can add to the future economy and long life of your vehicle. Avoid full throttle acceleration when starting and driving. Avoid racing the engine. try to avoid hard stops during the first 200 miles. Do not drive for a long time at any single speed, either fast or slow. Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles.
Toyota recommends at 5000 miles or six months to change the oil. This is subject to interpretation depending on how you drive and where. I personally would not take it off road until after the break-in period.
thank you for the response .i don't understand where to look for acessories and after market.please let me know
regards sam
tidester, host
(1) During cold start-ups, allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving;
(2) Change the oil for the first time at ~1000-1500 miles, then do the next oil change at 5000 miles, and every 5000 miles thereafter;
(3) At every 5000 mile servicing, rotate the tires; make sure the propeller shaft, U-joints, slip-yokes are lubricated with lithium grease; add ~24 oz. of *Chevron Techron Concentrate* to a tank of fresh fuel (add the Techron, then fill the tank), in order to clean the fuel system, injectors, etc.
(4) If you plan to keep your 4Runner for many years, consider using a full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. I've been very happy with Quaker State Full Synthetic oil for my '03, V8, AWD 4Runner Limited. If you decide to use synthetic oil, it can safely be used from the outset. On the other hand, never let a dealer talk you into any engine oil or transmission fluid ADDITIVES claimed to increase engine life, lower engine friction, etc. Pick a brand of oil, and stick with it, rather than jumping from brand to brand. If you opt for a high quality full synthetic oil, ask your dealer if they carry one. If they don't, make sure the synthetic oil you choose is readily available in your neck of the woods. (For example, Autozone carries Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 here in central Ohio.) Buy the oil by the case, take it to your dealer at each oil change, make sure they know you want them to use it, and also make sure they return the empty bottles to you. Finally, I would suggest using Toyota oil filters.
(5) If you don't already own a high quality tire pressure guage, buy one and check your (cold) tire pressure frequently.
(6) If you want to keep your new 4Runner's exterior (and interior) finish looking its best, with excellent finish protection, consider using Zaino products. http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc Zaino's Clay Bars are highly effective, and although "claying" the finish involves extra time and work, the results are well worth it.
Most new vehicles in the U.S. are transported by freight trains at some point, and embedded rail "brake dust" will become embedded in the finish of vehicles. In addition, automotive and truck brakes (including that from our own vehicles) are another ongoing source of brake dust, which WILL become embedded in the finish.
Clay bars are the only safe and effective way to easily and reliably remove these embedded particles of iron and rust. My 4Runner is white, and trust me, these iron particles are very common yet almost impossible to remove without a clay bar. Even if your vehicle's color tends to hide these particles, they're probably there, but they can be detected by running a piece of nylon stocking material or Saran Wrap over the (clean) finish of the vehicle--you will feel and hear it snag as it passes over these iron spicules and other embedded junk in the clearcoat. When you clay the vehicle, you will also see (to your utter amazement) specks of orange material accumulating in the clay, and what you're seeing here is brake and rail dust which the clay is easily plucking from the clearcoat. Imagine what these embedded iron particles could do to your finish if you never periodically remove them. Get thee some Zaino products, and prepare to be amazed.
(7) Husky brand plastic, fitted floor and cargo liners aren't cheap; in fact they're overpriced, but you'll eventually forget about the cost, and they're an excellent way to protect your vehicle's floors and carpet from snow, mud, sand, salt, slush, grease, etc. In addition, they clean-up very easily. Applying ScotchGard to all fabric surfaces is another wise idea if you want to keep your vehicle's interior looking good, especially if you have kids and/or pets.
I just get in and go (albeit gently at first). Some say let it idle for 30 seconds (link), but I don't even bother with that.
Modern gasoline vehicles are designed to start up and drive (Salt Lake City Weekly)
Steve, Host
I recently went in for a test drive. Found that SR5 ride is less harsh than SE. Is this true or just my perception.
Thanks
I am in the middle of a big mess and desperately seeking advice! The engine for my 1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 110.000 miles recently overheated. I was able to drive it briefly and then had to push it to the nearby mechanic shop.
The next day, the mechanic informed me that the radiator which blew its cap needed to be replaced as well as the fan and thermostat which were working but due for replacememnt. However, upon performing the above repairs the mechanic (Mechanic #2) discovered that the previous mechanic (Mechanic #1) who had replaced the radiator in 6/04 had put too much water in the coolant which froze solid (I'm in Boston- brrrr!). According to mechanic #2 this subsequently damaged the 5th of my 6 cylinders. The radiator, thermostat and fan were replaced so that the car would run while I awaited a formal estimate for engine repair.
Upon calling the mechanic #1 back with further details of the damage, he agreed to replace the radiator as he had told me in a previous conversation but insisted that my car would be smoking excessively (which it's not) if there were cylinder damage and that the radiator issue would not cause cylinder damage. Mechanic #1 insisted that he was not responsible for the engine damage. I then had mechanic #2 call mechanic #1. According to mechanic #2, mechanic #1 was rude and insisted that he was not responsible. Mechanic #1 was gone when I tried to call him back.
In the interim, I don't feel safe driving my old car which is obviously not worth repairing and have located a used 2001 4Runner which I would like to purchase this weekend because it's a good deal.
Questions to you guys: Which mechanic is right? Could the frozen coolant/ radiator issue cause engine damage? How do I pursue this matter if mechanic #1 is indeed at fault? What measures do I need to take to prove this before getting rid of the old car?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm obviously stressed and tight on time given that I found exactly what I want in the "new" used 2001 4Runner.
Thanks and have a great weekend!
Can anyone attest to this? I do not know where the friend who told me this got the info, could have been hearsay. That is why I am asking.
I really like the look of the 4Runner and all but was considering the Highlander just because of the gas mileage issue. I can't see getting 17 mpg when I can get 22 on a 4 cyl HL or 20 on a 6 cyl HL at the price gas is now.
Anybody with any insight, please respond. Does the new 4Runner get better than 17 mpg and does it ride smoother? Anyone who has researched and driven both vehicles, would love your input overall. I don't have to have 4wd as I live down South but 2wd will be totally useless with even a dusting of snow. That is why I would buy 4wd in a 4Runner for this reason.
Advice please????!!!
Steve, Host
http://automobilemag.com/reviews/suvs/0502_suv/
Thanks
We also chose the 4Runner over the Highlander because my wife likes the look of it much more than the Highlander, both inside and out. I'm not certain, but I think the Highlander does not have A/C vents for the rear seats. If this is true, than I consider this to be a significant oversight on Toyota's part, as almost every other SUV provides cooling for the rear seat passengers. (This is a concern for us, living in Arizona!) If you want 3rd row seats, the Highlander's 3rd row seats are more functional than the 4Runner's.
The 4Runner rides more like a truck, but it still handles and rides comfortably well. My wife says it is much better to drive than her friend's new Explorer. Our ride improved when we deflated the tire pressure down from the 43psi(!) which the tires were originally inflated at the dealer.
I disagree about the 2WD 4Runner being totally useless in a "dusting of snow". The '05 models now come with a limited slip rear differential. More importantly, they come standard with traction control and stability control. I have seen arguments both ways, but my personal feeling is this helps significantly improve traction on slick or lightly dusted roads. As long as the tires have a good tread on them, I don't see a problem. Don't get me wrong -- I agree 4WD provides the additional traction that is necessary for deeper snow depths.
My 2005 4wd Runner with 1000 miles on the clock since purchase last week has averaged 21 mpg (calculated)in 2wd mode, with bias to hiway driving here on Cape Cod. Take the average mpg information panel read-out with a grain of salt: it appears to be 5-10% optimistic, although long periods between resets may improve accuracy.
I'm unlikely to tow anything like the 5000lbs towing capacity, just maybe a small fishing boat.
Does a V8 give you much more acceleration than the V6?
Most of my use will be long distance commuting, so the ability to rapidly accelerate in rush hour traffic is helpful.
Thanks for the reply. Does SE handle bumpy rode surfaces better?
Well... you may be right..but I thought the opposite is true. Meaning SR5 rides smoother becauze bumpy roads are handled softer, compared to SE. Please feel welcome to correct me.
Have a nice weekend