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Comments
Thank you to all who help
Personally I don't plan on doing anything about it unless it stops working all together.
No heat after core replacement - when the plenum was reinstalled under the dash something must have been put back wrong. The main control cable from the temperature setting dial comes to mind - it's mechanical and isn't hard to install wrong. Could also be a vacuum connection.
No A/C - could be part of the heater problem, or the A/C itself. Did it work after the heater core was done? The A/C has to be drained & disconnected on a Durango to change the heater core, then reconnected and recharged.
We ended up checking the relay and supplying external power to the relay and then the clutch engaged and has been working ever since this afternoon. Anyone else get it to work?
Got a 2001 Durango SLT with 4.7L AWD.
Was puttin around today and noticed that the fan was blowing hot air. Double checked the climate controls, all the way blue. The air cooled down when getting up to speed with traffic - 40mph around town speeds.
I see lots of posts talking about the AC blowing hot air, but this is just the vent fan. The AC button is OFF. (I do have AC in case that makes a difference.)
Many thanks
The vehicle in queston; 2005 Durango SLT V8 5.7L Hemi AWD.
The passenger floor boards would get visibily very wet when the A/C was on. I thought the cause could have been the drain fittings were a little short or mis-angled because I read many had similar problems and that was the cause for them. I took it in to the dealer here (Riyadh,KSA) and asked them to also check the rear heater as it was only blowing cool air even when the heat was on. They said (after running tests) it wasn’t the drain fittings, rather the cause of the problem is possibly because of a leak in the evaporator. As for the rear, the rear blend door might be broken. They said they won’t know for certain until they get in to the dashboard and the rear. They also said it a very labor-intensive job so obciously quite expensive ($1300ish). However, I didn’t have the work done then and but just charged the freon.
I then brought it in for the 100,000 km service and also had them do a multi-point inspection. The result of the inspection was that I needed to replace the body isolators (20 total), replace the lower control arm because the bushings had too much play in them (they don’t just replace the bushings, rather the whole control arms), and auxillary belt (pulley, tensioner, etc) should be replaced. As you can see quite a costly repair list.
I got a quote for the A/C repair from another shop and they quoted me a “sealant” repair for ($200) but they also recommended (based on their experience) replacing the evaporator because the leak will happen again but from a different spot on the evaporator. As everyone probably knows, there is no such thing as “ASE” mechanics here. The only exception is with the dealers. Most of the shops here are pretty much made up of “back-alley” mechanics learning as they go from trial and error. They have no formal training or certification. At least that is what it seems like to me from my few years here. I know there are people who are very skilled and knowledgeable and they never had any formal training. However, finding such people is very difficult, especially here.
Anyways fast forward to early Aug 2011, I brought it in to the dealer for the front A/C repair and auxillary belt replacement. After I picked it up and as I was returning, the truck temp was rising after about 30 mins of driving. The A/C works but the temp heats up faster with the A/C on. I actually had to stop because it was getting in the 3/4 range of the gauge. I tried to turn on the heat hoping it will bring down the temp but the heat didn’t work. It blew cool air eventhough it was on the hottest setting.
Is it possible that something went wrong during the repair that may have caused it?
Also would there be any problems with replacing just the bushings on the lower control arm? I found an aftermarket Moor bushing online. I will ask my brother in Seattle to order it and then send it to me. I sure hope it’s not going to cause any problems because that will save me a lot of money because they are only $50 compared to $300-500 for the complete arm.
I don’t plan on getting the rear heater fix because I don’t use it here in this weather anyways. Is that going to cause more problems for me later?
The truck also stall sometimes when I slow down or make a turn. It starts right back up though. It doesn't do this often but just sometimes out of the blue. Any ideas regarding the cause would also be appreciated.
I would really appreciate any advice/help on this from the members here. I am just trying to get through the end of my contract and then go home so anywhere I can save some money will be a big plus.
Thanks to all in advance.
AND WHERE IS THE FAN RESISTOR
The fan resistor is on the top of the dashboard right side. I believe you can access it via a panel under the cowl, but I'm not sure. The only time I have ever seen it is when I had the dash out to replace the heater core.
Cost to repair varies greatly depending on the problem. The controller can be repaired from the front of the dash, if it's something on the heat A/C plenum up under the dash it usually means removing it which is a big job.
Hi all! I recently just bought a 2001 Durango and I noticed that the rear ac/heat blower works only for the 3rd row and not at all for the 2nd row. I tried seeing if the vents were closed and they're not... so any clue as to what it might be?
Front blower fan just totally stopped. Back still works but no heat. Just cold air.
Why would front blower going out affect rear heat? What am I missing here? To cold for no heat at all. Thank you
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