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Nissan Armada Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rshershe Member Posts: 236
    My rear hatch gave up the ghost 2 months ago.. The arm had broken off from the motor. Thank God for extended warranties. In regards to the power seats, mine have intermittantly stopped working from the day I got it, but of course they work fine when I have it at the dealer. It seems like they reset and start working again, if the vehicle gets shut off ..
  • kgswankgswan Member Posts: 1
    05 ARMADA SUDDENLY LOST POWER, COULD ONLY DRIVE 20 MPH... SO I PULLED OVER AND SHUT IT OFF AND FOUND THAT THE BATTERY WAS DEAD, ONCE I GOT IT HOME I CHARGED THE BATTERY OVERNIGHT AND HAD NO PROBLEMS UNTIL FIVE DAYS LATER WHEN THE SAME THING HAPPENED, SO I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND WIFE WENT TO WORK....27 MILES LATER SAME THING HAPPENED, ELECTRICAL GAGE IS SHOWING LOW OUTPUT BUT NO TROUBLE LIGHTS ARE COMING ON. HAS ANYONE HAD ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THIS?
  • kenleslie76kenleslie76 Member Posts: 22
    Only 3,500 miles on my Armada. I have noticed that when I turn my AC on and after a couple min. my AC is not as cold as I thought it should be. A few wks back I have received a letter from Nissan Corp. stated that they have encounter an AC problem with the SUV and was told to bring to the dealer and have it repair. Anyone out there have simliar problem with the AC not being cold rather just cool???
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like a bad alternator, have it repaired under warranty if you are still under warranty.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like they found the problem, bring it into your dealer in they should fix it up for yah.

    -mike
  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    hey we have a 2005 nissan armada se that we love we wanted to know if anybody knows how to removed the rear cross bar from roof rack because we have an older house and it scrapes with our garage please help us thank you
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    I replaced my battery in my 2004 Armada. 2 days later, it will not start. I had a diagnostic run and they found no problem. Dead again this morning....Will not even turn over unless jumped. Help!! Only have 27,000 miles on vehicle. I have already suffered through the brake problem with the dealer and am not happy at the thought of having to go back there and fight for help.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Bring it back again and tell them what happened. They will figure it out, they just need to dig a little bit deeper. No doubt it's either a charging system problem and some electrical device, switch or short is draining the battery. A diagnostic scan would not neccesarily reveal all types of electrical problems.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2004 Armada LE. When the car was about 18 months old I started having the brake judders, brake light and ABS light going on and a severe steering wheel shake.

    I took it to the dealer who said I needed an adjustment. That took care of it for a while. Vehicle had less than 12,000 miles on it. Problem came back with greater intensity. Had another "adjustment". Fast forward to March 2007. Spoke with a neighbor who had exact same vehicle and was inquiring about problem. He informed me that it was a problem and that I should take it back to where I purchased it. He said they are replacing the brakes free of charge. I contacted my dealer who acted like they had never heard of the problem. I dropped the car off and they later called me to say my brakes were shot and that it was going to cost $1,100.00 for new brakes. I declined.....
    My husband tried to work with the dealer and they would not budge. Of course, it was out of the 12,000 mile warranty. We decided to try another dealership but before that happened I went out to do a short errand and the car would not go into reverse. I gave it a little gas and the brake pad fell off while backing out of my driveway with my 2 kids in the car. It scared the heck out of me. Since this was a Friday afternoon on a holiday weekend, I could not get the car into the dealership until late the next week. I called a friend of mine who is a mechanic, and he came over and said he could do the brakes for $200.00. He felt that they gave me the runaround, until the brakes were acrually worn. Turned out, when he went to replace the front passanger brake,he found the caliper leaking brake fluid. It ended up costing me $700.00 ($500 for the caliper). Bought the car in Mar 2004 but only has 27,900 miles on it.

    Now it seems that I have a charging problem.....
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    I had a local shop run a more thorough diagnostic and they found a parasitic drawl coming from one of the computers. I called a different dealership than I have used in the past and they want to tow it in. I am worried about what they are going to find and if the warranty will cover it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Warranty should be 3yr/36k on the computers and what not. I was going to suggest a parasitic draw. I installed a car computer/navigation/pc in my truck and when it doesn't turn off properly (it's windows XP so that happens sometimes) it will run down my battery.

    As for the brakes there was a recall on the '04s to be upgraded to different rotors pads and a bracket for the caliper.

    -mike
  • kenleslie76kenleslie76 Member Posts: 22
    I have a 2007 Armada SE with only 4000 miles. I have notice some clunking noise when I made a changing shift from P to R or to D gear. Sometime I heard the clunking sometime not at all. If you're on a flat ground. It shift smoothly. On a not so hilly ground, just a little above flat like a driveway. It shift had a really clunking noise that seem to bother me all the time. I have a older legend 95 and it shift smoother than my Armada. Anyone have the same problem?
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    Mike,
    That is what worries me......I have reached my 36 months but I am at 27,596 miles. I dread the call from the dealer tomorrow. I guess I should just hope they are gracious.

    My dealer acted like they had never heard of the brake problem.I ended up getting them fixed at my own expense.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    Well here is the udate......Dropped it off at the dealer on Monday night. Manager calls yesterday and of course, it started. They proceeded to run every possible electrical test possible and found nothing. They did say that the new battery that was installed on Thursday was a CCA 625 battery. The minimum CCA for the Armada with tow package is CCA 710. The dealer says the battery is a standard battery, not heavy duty.

    This morning, dead again. Dealer will not take car in for more testing until I put the correct battery in. The dealer is out of stock until next Monday so I will have to go elsewhere. I still think there is another problem. I used the car until late last night and this morning.....dead
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    There's no reason a brand new CCA 625 battery wouldn't be able to start your truck after sitting for a few hours, especially in warmer weather. Perhaps Nissan does call for a CCA 710 battery, but that's not your immediate problem. Chances are there was nothing wrong with the original battery either. There's something draining the battery overnight or an issue with your charging system. After verifying the battery spec in your owner's manual, I would suggest you go back to whoever sold you the wrong battery and get the right one. You will likely find the dealer price for a battery to be much more than a place like Sears. So far as the dealer goes, you'll need to take it back to them again and tell them what happened. Sounds like it's an intermittent problem...will be hard for them to diagnose until it happens when they have the truck, but they have to solve it. Dealers are generally not willing to put much effort into diagnosing a problem like this until they are pressured to as the manufacturer severely limits the reimbursement amounts to the dealer for diagostic work. If you next trip back to the dealer doesn't solve the problem, it's time to call Nissan for help. Let us know what happens.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    That is my feeling also. The auto center is sending me the correct battery and then I will have to wait until the next morning for it not to start and go from there.

    The auto center near my home did put the car on their diagnostic machine and said they see a considerable parasitic draw. The dealer said they ran every imaginable test yestersay and found nothing.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Why not leave it parked at the dealer one evening, then when it won't start in the AM, it'll be right there for them to diagnose.

    It's definitely a drain. Unfortunately the dealer is correct in requiring the correct CCA as you need to have a level playing field to diagnose the problem. Is there anything else that may be causing the drain:

    Aftermarket Stereo
    Aftermarket Alarm
    Aftermarket Items such as Radar Detector, GPS Unit, etc. that might be plugged into a cigarette lighter. Aftermarket DVD player also can cause a problem.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have a 2007 Armada SE with only 4000 miles. I have notice some clunking noise when I made a changing shift from P to R or to D gear. Sometime I heard the clunking sometime not at all. If you're on a flat ground. It shift smoothly. On a not so hilly ground, just a little above flat like a driveway. It shift had a really clunking noise that seem to bother me all the time. I have a older legend 95 and it shift smoother than my Armada. Anyone have the same problem?

    Anytime you park your Armada on a hill of any sort (even a slight one) you should apply the parking brake. What is happening is that the weight of the Armada leaning on your parking pin, when you shift it out of P it is wearing the pin/mechanism. The reason you don't have the same issue with your Acura is that it's about 1/2 the weight or less of the Armada.

    It's not a problem, you just need to operate it differently so it doesn't happen. Also applying the parking brake on any automatic car should be done in these steps:

    1) Put the car in N with your foot on the regular brake
    2) Apply the parking brake
    3) Release the regular brake
    4) Allow the car to settle into it's spot
    5) Put the car in P

    -mike
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    Mike,

    I left it at the dealership overnight on Monday and as you can guess, it started Tuesday morning. It was dead yesterday and I tried it this morning, and it cracked over but didn't start. When I tried it again, it just made that clicking noise.

    The dealer is out of the battery until Monday so I had a friend get me one elsewhere, hopefully today.

    I have not made any additions to the vehicle as it is leased. Out of the blue, the battery was dead last Thursday.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Ok so no chargers for phones or anything aftermarket, that's good that narrows it down.

    I'd say, leave it there once the proper battery is in and see what they can diagnose from the dead car which will eventually be dead if you leave overnight there.

    -mike
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    Sorry about your brake problems. The deal with the brakes is that they will repair them (04's & 05's) for 3 years from the date of purchase, no matter how many miles it has on it. They sent out letters to that effect with stickers for your owners manual. With an 04 you may have missed that 3 year cut-off. I just had my front and rear brakes replaced, new front rotors and rear rotors resurfaced, all for free (55K miles) and they gave me a free rental too. Mine didn't appear to be a problem, they just squeaked. I had them check it while in for an oil change and what-da-ya know, they're worn out almost completely.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    Had the correct Nissan battery installed on 7/27. The car started fine until yesterday 8/2. It was dead and took 1 hour to charge. It was dead again today. Off to the dealer Sunday night......I cannot imagine what is causing the battery to drain so qucikly.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    I replaced the front brakes at 27,000 miles in May. Now the rear brakes are squeeling. I bought the car 2/27/2004 and had it to the dealer for the brake lights coming on in November 2005. The made an "adjustment". It went back again in March 2007 and they told me the brakes were worn and they would have to be replaced at my expense.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    With the EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution) you will get a nearly even wear on the Front/Rear Pads. I replace my Front pads every 20k and rears every 30k miles.

    Pads are relatively cheap, they run about $120 front and rear pads.

    -mike
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Replaced the fronts at 100 and the rears at 30k. Couldnt stand the brake dust with the stock pads so switchem to ceramics
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    With some more in depth diagnostics, the dealer should be able to find the problem. One thing they can do is to start pulling fuses one by one, when the draining stops happening, they will at least know which circuit is involved. There are dozens and dozens of issues that could be causing the problem. I've seen problems like this caused by everything from a bad switch that never turns off the glove compartment light, to an issue with one of the on-board computers. If they don't get it right this time, ask Nissan to have one of their technical people to assist the dealer. Please let us know what happens.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Replaced the fronts at 100 and the rears at 30k. Couldnt stand the brake dust with the stock pads so switchem to ceramics

    I had good luck with the stock pads in terms of dusting. I did replace them with Akebono Pro-Act Ceramics this time around and so far so good. :)

    -mike
  • pmax06pmax06 Member Posts: 1
    My 07 Armada has the same issue. I've made an appt w/ the nissan dealership so they can repair this- I'm guessing they will have to add in a switch, as I have looked for one but it does not exist for the glove box itself. I'll reply as to how they resolve this problem for me...

    PL
  • thebeansrusthebeansrus Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have an 07 too with about 5400 miles on it. Besides all the other headaches I have had my AC doesn't seem that cold and the past week it has done this thing 3 time. I will be driving with AC on high and all of a sudden the blowers just shut off only for a split second but for that time there is no air. I am going to take it in this week but after all the other headaches I have had in the less than 5 months of ownership I am so ready to get rid of it! I had some recall work done when it was in for something else. It was a compressor fan or something like that. you might look into that recall.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    try spraying Pam cooking spray on your wheels. The dust will not stick to them.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    The still have not been able to identify the problem. It is getting harder and harder to jump the vehicle every day. They informed me today that although I only just hit 28,000 miles they will not make any repairs under warranty. I did not choose the extended warranty. Paying $600.00 a month was enough!!!!

    I found out that there is a recall on my vehicle. It is on the body control module. I asked them if I could bring the vehicle in and have the body control module changed out and see if that fixes my charging problem. The repsonse was, no!! I need to have the vehicle looked over at my expense, and they will then decide if the module is the culprit of the dying battery problem. I am so angry, I shot off an email to Nissan USA.

    Now they want me to have it towed (also at my expense) there and they want to look at it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    28k is under 36k which is what the BtoB covers. I don't see how it would not be covered. Perhaps you should try a different dealer?

    -mike
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    in to the dealer I purchased from. Was told that Nissan authorizes towing to the closest dealer and not necessarily the one you purchased from for warranty repairs. I thought that rather interesting especially when it required replacing a trans.

    Agreed tzanghi it is time to look for another dealer. Seems the one you're with is into blowing smoke.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    They told me that the warranty is 36 months or 36K, which ever comes first. I am about to drive this car off of a cliff. I have received a response from Nissan that someone will be contacting me, meanwhile I have to start the car before I go to bed and let it run for 30 minutes and do the same when I get up in the morning to ensure it starts. Great, for $600 a month!!!!

    I don't understane why they won't just replace the body control module and then take it from there. From what I understand the BCM control everything inside the vehicle.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Not only that, it's also quite possible that the body controller is what is causing the draining of the battery. I had a Grand Cherokee about 10 years ago that had the exact problem.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    BCM, it has to be first confirmed by a technician that it is faulty. They certainly won't go on a trial and error basis and replace parts nor the word of a customer. Unfortunate but that's how most warranty programs work.

    A battery drain will require a good deal of time to diagnose. Again that's something a dealer usually will not do as the time to diagnose will not be fully paid by Nissan and more than likely cause the dealer to lose money.

    A good place to start is to file a complaint with the BBB online against Nissan and/or the dealership since no one seems to be willing to help. The BBB is good a clearing the red tape and BS that both Nissan and the dealer might be giving you. The results and response are quick as I've pursued this course of action before.
  • tzanghitzanghi Member Posts: 19
    They told me that they ran my VIN# and there is a recall on the BCM. Also, when it was on the charger yesterday, there was a clicking noise coming from underneath the dash, near the brake pedal. The lights were flashing on and off and that was without they key in the ignition.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Seems like you're gaining headway with your problem.

    Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    in to the dealer I purchased from. Was told that Nissan authorizes towing to the closest dealer and not necessarily the one you purchased from for warranty repairs. I thought that rather interesting especially when it required replacing a trans.

    That is pretty much the same for all warranties from all auto-makers. They want to limit their towing costs and at the same time get you back on the road as soon as possible, towing to the orginal dealer could be far from where you are located and broken down.

    -mike
  • gbajagbaja Member Posts: 13
    guys,
    i have a 2004 armada and i learned that they increase the warranty on the brake rotor and pads (does caliper included?).....how true, can anybody help!
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    Yea, but for only 3 years from the original date of purchase no matter the mileage. Depending on when you got it, you may or may not be covered. It only covers brakes and rotors, parts and labor. The caliper if defective, would have to be within the 3/36K miles warranty.
  • tt30tt30 Member Posts: 31
    >> Yea, but for only 3 years from the original date of purchase no matter the mileage.<<

    Well, it's the standard Nissan warranty - isn't it?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Rotors and pads are not part of most factory warranties.

    -mike
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    Exactly. I think rotors and pads are typically covered for only the first 12 months.
  • oddysseyoddyssey Member Posts: 6
    Hello,

    I'm having trouble with my 2006 Nissan Armada. It has under 16,500 miles on it and it keeps dying on me, while I'm driving it. I have gotten it towed five times, taken it to two different delearships, and called Nissan North America, all to no avail. Everyone says that they can't duplicate the problem and that everything checks out fine. However, after driving it a couple days, it just stops again. I've paid for the towing and car rentals, and I'm running out of $$ and patience. But no one seems to help. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

    Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    When an engine goes kaput there are usually codes that are triggered during the incident. So are you saying that no codes are triggered? That the dealer can't find the codes? Or that they are ignoring the codes and telling you they can't find anything wrong?
  • oddysseyoddyssey Member Posts: 6
    They are telling me that there are no codes coming up. That everything registers fine.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Do you have a CEL after the incident? Generally you SHOULD have one after an incident like that. Try a different dealer.

    -mike
  • oddysseyoddyssey Member Posts: 6
    Sometimes, not always. All the service lights generally turn on. I've already taken it to two different dealers.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So they are saying that there is no info from the Check Engine Light? The CEL should be giving them all the info they need to at least start to diagnose the problem.

    -mike
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