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i am looking to see if someone can help me with my Jeep Graand Cherokee w reg 2000 yr. Firsty when you unlock or lock the door the hazzord lights dont flash, the interior lights dont go off, the side interior side lights dont work, the seatbelt symbol stays on the dash, teh funcion to control the volume doesnt work, the windows dont work, the temperature or av MPG doesnt work.
if anyone can help me please do.
thanks
i am looking to see if someone can help me with my Jeep Graand Cherokee w reg 2000 yr. Firsty when you unlock or lock the door the hazzord lights dont flash, the interior lights dont go off, the side interior side lights dont work, the seatbelt symbol stays on the dash, teh funcion to control the volume doesnt work, the windows dont work, the temperature or av MPG doesnt work.
if anyone can help me please do. or email taz_f@hotmail.co.uk
thanks
Here's the problem: the rear liftgate door usually doesn't respond to the lock/unlock key. I went four days straight with being unable to get the liftgate to lock, even though all the other doors work fine. I would stand by the liftgate pressing the "lock" mode on the remote key fifty times- no response. When the liftgate would lock on rare occasion, then it would go days without my being able to UNLOCK it!! Any thief could have opened that rear door, crawled in and taken anything he wanted!! I took it back to the dealer only a WEEK after I bought it and had the service department look at it. they replaced the actuator and the latch, thinking that would fix it, but no.... I now have another appointment with the Service department in a few days. My hunch is that either this is a simple problem , i.e. a wire that needs adjusting, or it's a complex electrical problem that might never be fixed. if it's the latter, I'm wondering what my protections/rights are as a consumer...anyone have advice on this?? I have only had the car for a month! No brand new car should have this problem.
thanks for the reply Farooq. but it sounds like you know a lot more about electrical problems than I do. Electrical problems can be hard to diagnose. I know some European models are notorious for electrical problems. anyway, the problem is fixed and I hope to enjoy my new Jeep for many years.
. Does not Work
1. Windows
2. Automatic head light sensor
3. Door locks
4. Temperature Display (not eng) outside temp
5. Map lights stay on (if setting is on auto)
6. Air Conditioner compressor does not turn on
7. All gauges do not work ( work briefly if i press on the brake)
I sent my Jeep to a mechanic I had problems my gauges did not work and he said it could be a coil spring or ignition. He serviced my vehicle and changed the ignition. That did not fix the problem but the items listed above do not work. He did
a diagnostic check and the computer would not respond. He said my accessory control was most likely bad. He checked the coil spring and said it was good. He said most likely I should take it to the DEALER.
Symptoms
I would press on the brake my gauges would work briefly.
If I would put my turn signal my gauges would work briefly.
If I turned my wipers my gauges would work briefly.
My windows would roll down if I would stop and turn off my ignition. Now they just don’t work
I would be driving and my turn signal warning chime would go off.
The jeep has stalled three times but started back up.
All the vital stuff works such as Turn signals Head lights
I have not had any problems with the transmission or engine it works just fine. Except when it stalled those few times.
I can hear a clicking noise under the dash it sounds like a relay clicking.
I since have sent it to the dealer (bunch of yahoo's) they have never seen the problem. RIGHT! look on the internet I am not the only one. They diagnosed the problem as the instrument cluster.
I tore into the dash this weekend and looked for all the posted possablites and I found no corrosion no spliced wires in the boot of the door.
I did find a burned connector for the ac as soon as I touched it was Hot and then the blower turned on. This part is called a Resistor for the blower fan. (OEM INSTALLED RESISTOR SYSTEM FLOW SENSOR (DELCO MODEL #16250779, SERIAL #0304021) I went to the dealer got a quote for the part and casualy asked him if he had a lot of call for this part he said yes. I asked if there was a recall on it he directed to the service deptartment and there is no recall. Funny thing is that they also sell the connector to replace the melted male adaptor.
I just want to know if anyone has checked this sensor its located under the passenger dash next to the blower.
I just wonder since this Fried under the dash if this has caused some sort of ground or actually fried the computer and I wonder why It did not blow the fuse...Its unplugged for now until I replace it. Since I have disconnected it has not helped the guage issue. I now notice that the window control on the door makes
a clicking noise and turns on and off from door to door I am just wonder if this could be a multiude of problems. I used to love my jeep. As the saying goes if you love them you must let them go..
i had problems with my electrical windows, door lights would not go off, the memory seats wouldnt work, the temp sensrs and dash wouldnt work, temp wpould not give accrate reading.
i got an auto electricain who looked at the door switch and re powered it and all the problems went away. all i need now is the code for the sterio.
Have you managed to solve your problem? if so how?
thanks.
YES I MANAGED TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM. THE AUTO ELECTRICIAN JUST RESET THE POWER TO THE SWITCH FOR THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS. THIS HAS THEN RESET THE COMPUTER AND IT IS ALL WORKING NOW.
CHECK ALL YOUR WIRES TO MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE A LOOSES CONNECTION.
HOPE IT GETS BETTER
THANKS
Has anyone had any success with the dealer and this problem?
His thought was that there might be a short in a wire, which wasn't something he could find. Anyone have any other possible suggestions? Or does that sound the most logical and is it a dealer fix?
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_0608_1987_jeep_wrangler_xj/ind- ex.html
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.
-also,my -97,witch i just rescued from a body shop where it sat for two years,had the auto lights,and the instrument lights were controlled by the slide switch next to the headlight switch..i took wd-40,with the straw attached,and gave the slide switch a two secound spray,then worked the switch several times,as this cleaned the contacts inside...it seems to have addressed the problem!!..worth a try!..
2000 Jeep grand cherokee
Electrical problem resolved
1st issue Gauges would work intermittently.
Key Tumbler is bad. Had it repaired at dealer fixed all the problem listed above. 94.00
2nd Issue
AC would not work
Blower resistor Replaced. 160.00
Wish everyone the best of luck.
Out of nowhere, when I go to get in the vehicle, as soon as I open the door, the heater fan comes on with no key in the ignition. The heater fan switch is in the on position when this happens but there is no key in the ignition and the ignition is in the off position. It happened a week ago and it killed the battery. at that time, I charged it and started it and shut it off, but its almost like the key was still on but it wasn't. The dash lights went off with the key but the fan and blinkers still had power.
I unhooked the battery and waited a minute, hooked it back up but the fan blower and blinkers still worked with no key on. I unhooked the battery overnight and the next day everything was ok after I rehooked the battery.
Today I opened the door and the fan started to run with no key in the ignition.
I left the battery unhooked for a few hours, hooked it up and the fan didn't come on, until I opened the door.
This is a nice vehicle but when I figure out the problem it will be up for sale.
Any clues from anyone?
Thanks, Dan
No running lights, with the car running or off... All other exterior lights work...
Dashboard lights don't work...
Speedometer doesn't work...
If I open any of the passenger doors there is a relay near the glove compartment that starts clicking...
Interior lights on the door are on when the car is running and the doors are closed... they get brighter and dim with the same pulse that the radio lights are blinking, whether or not the radio is on...
Interior ceiling lights are also affected...
Fuses are all good...
check wires by batt for corasisen
if have a bad cell could cause computer to act up
if new could also be the engnition switch (mounted on the bottom of steering coluem i think on the 05s not real sure though)
If you keep the discussion here then everyone benefits.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I am a little surprised the mechanic didn't pick up on any of this (electrical, fuel pump, sending unit, etc.) if starting it is such a problem. Perhaps a new mechanic would be helpful?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
First off, sometimes, most times actually, when I roll down the rear window on the driver side, the locks trigger. And then I cannot lock the car without doing so manually for a undetermined amount of time. Also, sometimes the car simply will not start, after I drive it for any length of time. Put the key in and the dash comes alive, but the engine wont turn over. I have to wait anywhere between 5-15 minutes typically for the engine to start. Doesn't matter if I take the key out or anything. Seems like the computer needs to reset?
Ive asked various mechanics and they all have no idea. Ive never had the money to hunt down the problem...
3 weeks ago I had to have the Throttle Position Sensor replaced, after doing some research this seems to be a common problem. (rough idle, rpm fluctuations in cruise control, high idle at startup regardless of engine temp.)
I had some electrical problems. My radio quit working intermittently. I had to mess with rear driver side window button to get power to the radio. Last night driver side windows would not work. This morning none of the windows will work, instrument panel light cluster is lit up like a Christmas tree, fuel gauge, speedometer, tach does not work.
I think that it is a problem that has to do with a short and moisture in door panel. This issue happens mostly after rain or if there is a melt from the winter. Does anyone know if there were any recalls? This seems to be a common problem.
And now for something COMPLETELY different...so the power lead to the main fuse/relay assembly underhood seems to be the area of suspicion. I did the ye old "remove a lead" method to see if I could elicit a spark, and VIOLA'! a flash of energy. So its somewhere within there.
The search continues...
Although...it also could be the ECM. Sometimes those damned things act up after a rain or if ANY moisture gets in them at all. I've pulled a few where the carpet and surrounding areas were bone dry and yet the ECM showed signs of moisture damaging and shorting.
I'd have your local dealer put the ECm on a SOLUS device and check it out.
Thats my opinion, though...ain't worth much...LOL