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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    Hi Guys

    i am looking to see if someone can help me with my Jeep Graand Cherokee w reg 2000 yr. Firsty when you unlock or lock the door the hazzord lights dont flash, the interior lights dont go off, the side interior side lights dont work, the seatbelt symbol stays on the dash, teh funcion to control the volume doesnt work, the windows dont work, the temperature or av MPG doesnt work.
    if anyone can help me please do.

    thanks
  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    Hi Guys

    i am looking to see if someone can help me with my Jeep Graand Cherokee w reg 2000 yr. Firsty when you unlock or lock the door the hazzord lights dont flash, the interior lights dont go off, the side interior side lights dont work, the seatbelt symbol stays on the dash, teh funcion to control the volume doesnt work, the windows dont work, the temperature or av MPG doesnt work.
    if anyone can help me please do. or email taz_f@hotmail.co.uk

    thanks
  • eridererider Member Posts: 2
    After only purchasing Toyota cars for many years, and on an "impulse buy" deciding on a Jeep since they gave me such a great deal, I am already regretting the choice. I love the Jeep- the way it drives and handles, and it fits me like a glove. However, I am wondering if this is a quality vehicle and that if I am already having a problem now, what's it gonna be like in five years??
    Here's the problem: the rear liftgate door usually doesn't respond to the lock/unlock key. I went four days straight with being unable to get the liftgate to lock, even though all the other doors work fine. I would stand by the liftgate pressing the "lock" mode on the remote key fifty times- no response. When the liftgate would lock on rare occasion, then it would go days without my being able to UNLOCK it!! Any thief could have opened that rear door, crawled in and taken anything he wanted!! I took it back to the dealer only a WEEK after I bought it and had the service department look at it. they replaced the actuator and the latch, thinking that would fix it, but no.... I now have another appointment with the Service department in a few days. My hunch is that either this is a simple problem , i.e. a wire that needs adjusting, or it's a complex electrical problem that might never be fixed. if it's the latter, I'm wondering what my protections/rights are as a consumer...anyone have advice on this?? I have only had the car for a month! No brand new car should have this problem.
  • jhustonjhuston Member Posts: 2
    I found spliced and broken wires where the drivers door hinges. I fought electrical problems on my 02 for a while until i found and fixed this problem. Also, when my battery gets to be a couple of years old, it starts doing strange things. The first place id look is in the rubber boot from the drivers door to the door jamb and check the integrity of the wires there. Good luck!
  • eridererider Member Posts: 2
    Well, after two days of it being at the shop, and checking just about every wiring configuration in the vehicle, it was determined that the junction box, which contains a lot of wiring, was defective somehow. this vehicle never should have left the factory floor with that defect- I guess the person in charge of quality assurance was out that day!
    thanks for the reply Farooq. but it sounds like you know a lot more about electrical problems than I do. Electrical problems can be hard to diagnose. I know some European models are notorious for electrical problems. anyway, the problem is fixed and I hope to enjoy my new Jeep for many years.
  • duckitbadduckitbad Member Posts: 2
    My Jeep, a 2005 5.7 liter with 39,000 miles just got stuck in 3rd gear (5 speed automatic) as I was cruising at 65MPH while in Drive. The vehicle has the 8/4 gas saving feature. The dealer has had it since yesterday morning and says it may take yet another couple of days to figure out the problem, and that the problem is probably electrical. I put a new battery in one month ago. Any ideas, relay of similar experience, would be welcomed.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    It sounds as if the transmission has gone into the "limp home" mode, which usually is due to a malfunctioning sensor input to the transmission. However, the dealer should be able to find a code quickly from the OBD computer. It shouldn't take days to do that. The 8/4 (MDS) almost certainly has nothing to do with the problem. :)
  • dcarrejodcarrejo Member Posts: 2
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee problems
    . Does not Work
    1. Windows
    2. Automatic head light sensor
    3. Door locks
    4. Temperature Display (not eng) outside temp
    5. Map lights stay on (if setting is on auto)
    6. Air Conditioner compressor does not turn on
    7. All gauges do not work ( work briefly if i press on the brake)

    I sent my Jeep to a mechanic I had problems my gauges did not work and he said it could be a coil spring or ignition. He serviced my vehicle and changed the ignition. That did not fix the problem but the items listed above do not work. He did
    a diagnostic check and the computer would not respond. He said my accessory control was most likely bad. He checked the coil spring and said it was good. He said most likely I should take it to the DEALER.

    Symptoms
    I would press on the brake my gauges would work briefly.
    If I would put my turn signal my gauges would work briefly.
    If I turned my wipers my gauges would work briefly.
    My windows would roll down if I would stop and turn off my ignition. Now they just don’t work
    I would be driving and my turn signal warning chime would go off.
    The jeep has stalled three times but started back up.
    All the vital stuff works such as Turn signals Head lights
    I have not had any problems with the transmission or engine it works just fine. Except when it stalled those few times.
    I can hear a clicking noise under the dash it sounds like a relay clicking.

    I since have sent it to the dealer (bunch of yahoo's) they have never seen the problem. RIGHT! look on the internet I am not the only one. They diagnosed the problem as the instrument cluster.

    I tore into the dash this weekend and looked for all the posted possablites and I found no corrosion no spliced wires in the boot of the door.

    I did find a burned connector for the ac as soon as I touched it was Hot and then the blower turned on. This part is called a Resistor for the blower fan. (OEM INSTALLED RESISTOR SYSTEM FLOW SENSOR (DELCO MODEL #16250779, SERIAL #0304021) I went to the dealer got a quote for the part and casualy asked him if he had a lot of call for this part he said yes. I asked if there was a recall on it he directed to the service deptartment and there is no recall. Funny thing is that they also sell the connector to replace the melted male adaptor.

    I just want to know if anyone has checked this sensor its located under the passenger dash next to the blower.

    I just wonder since this Fried under the dash if this has caused some sort of ground or actually fried the computer and I wonder why It did not blow the fuse...Its unplugged for now until I replace it. Since I have disconnected it has not helped the guage issue. I now notice that the window control on the door makes
    a clicking noise and turns on and off from door to door I am just wonder if this could be a multiude of problems. I used to love my jeep. As the saying goes if you love them you must let them go..
  • duckitbadduckitbad Member Posts: 2
    smithed: thank's for response. The dealer finally delivered the Jeep on Monday, 10/13 in the early pm, fixed, said the computer check was negative, tech. traced problem to two bent prongs on a wiring harness connector, straightened them out, billed me $518.00.
  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    hi
    i had problems with my electrical windows, door lights would not go off, the memory seats wouldnt work, the temp sensrs and dash wouldnt work, temp wpould not give accrate reading.

    i got an auto electricain who looked at the door switch and re powered it and all the problems went away. all i need now is the code for the sterio.
  • retamoceretamoce Member Posts: 3
    Left lights on and to start the wehicle I also changed my battery the same way as you did, now my automatic door lock at 15mph does not work - (that's the only thing I noticed, I will check if there is any more.
    Have you managed to solve your problem? if so how?
    thanks.
  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    Hi
    YES I MANAGED TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM. THE AUTO ELECTRICIAN JUST RESET THE POWER TO THE SWITCH FOR THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS. THIS HAS THEN RESET THE COMPUTER AND IT IS ALL WORKING NOW.

    CHECK ALL YOUR WIRES TO MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE A LOOSES CONNECTION.

    HOPE IT GETS BETTER

    THANKS
  • jmaty23jmaty23 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I bought from a dealer. It has about 45000 miles on it. Runs great. For about the past 4 months, the Brake Trouble light has been blinking every once in a while. This is a brake trouble light and the emergency brake light combined into one. It only does it when I use my brakes or when I hit a bump on the road. I tried to get a DTC code from the computer and nothing shows up in the freeze frame memory. I took it to the dealer and they could not find an issue with the vehicle considering the light wouldn't come on when I took it in(of course). I was wondering if anyone knew where the brake sensors for the brake system are located and what they do and if anyone has any pointers on pinpointing the problem.
  • 2006jgc2006jgc Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2006 JCG. After a day, the speedometer and tachometer started flickering simultaneously. The ABS, check engine and airbag lights also flicker (and ding) intermittently. The car is still under warranty and has spent 7 out of the 10 days I have owned it at the Jeep dealer. They admit there is a problem (like I needed a diagnostic machine to tell me that!), but they say they have no idea what it is and how to fix it.

    Has anyone had any success with the dealer and this problem?
  • la_writerla_writer Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee. As I'm driving, I seem to get an sudden electrical short, where the radio shuts off, I hear the door locks click and the dash board display turns off, then within seconds it call comes back on. The car itself doesn't shut off and I don't seem to loose the headlights. It is sporadic. A mechanic looked at it, said that the alternator seemed to be fine, and he cleaned and tightened the battery terminals which needed it, but he said he couldn't find anything else.

    His thought was that there might be a short in a wire, which wasn't something he could find. Anyone have any other possible suggestions? Or does that sound the most logical and is it a dealer fix?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have a short in the rubber tube that goes into your drivers door (by the hinges )
  • jpflumjpflum Member Posts: 4
    OK, HERES THE STORY, JUST TRADED FOR IT,,,DROVE FOR TWO DAYS, SHUT OFF AN PARKED,CAME OUT 3 HOURS LATER& CRANKS OVER GOOD FUEL PRES. NO VOLATAGE TO COIL,WHILE MESSING AROUND PUT IN NEW PLUGS, CAP ROTOR,,,,,AND ONLY CODES THAT KEY ON,OFF GIVES IS 12 AND 55,,,,,,,,,,ABOUT READY TO GET A ECU,,,,,,ALSO,OHMED CRANCHSHAFT POST SENSOR,,,,,,,,,,ANYONE GOT A IDEA
  • duelerdueler Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 JGC and had the same problems i ended having the skim module replaced, not to cheap about 600.00. No more problems
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    "i have a 97 cherokee with a 4.0 that's not getting any spark. i have replaced the coil and checked to see its getting power (my test light will light up on GREEN / ORANGE and when i flip the tester to + i have ground on GRAY / WHITE just not while cranking) i visually inspected the cap and rotor and checked injector pulse. all the gauges work on the dash and the info cluster. all the fuses are good under the hood and in the vehicle. the fuel pump kicks on fine. any idea's ?? i was told that if the crank sensor is bad then the 3 wires should test 1 as a ground 2 should have 8 volts and 3 shold have between 0.3 volts and 5.0 volts but when i tested it with my volt meter i was getting between 5v and 0.3 v on one wire and between 3 and 4 volts on the other so i replaced the crank sensor because it should have 8 volts on that wire but it didn't solve my problem. so i have also pulled the codes ( key on key off key on key off key on and count the blinks of your check engine light between pauses, if you have a digital odemiter it will tell you the codes) and they are reading 12_54_55. 54 being the cam sensor which is inside the distributor on this model and year jeep aka sync signal generator and its called the IGNITION PICK UP COIL at your local parts store, and swapped it out then took sandpaper and some contact cleaner and went thru every relay under the hood. then i disconnected the neg. batt terminal and removed the coolant reservoir and pulled the 3 plugs from the pcm checked the terminals and tested the gray / white wire (-) from the pcm to the coil itself to make sure it wasn't damaged AND now i start and run beautifuly. WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT!! here is another idea below that may also help you and the link to a jeep site that explains your vehicle sensors and how they work. good luck

    http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_0608_1987_jeep_wrangler_xj/ind- ex.html

    Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
    At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
    My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
    Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
    As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.
  • jpflumjpflum Member Posts: 4
    SOUNDS LIKE A DEAL TO ME,I JUST HAD TO WALK AWAY FOR A DAY OR TO, OR BURN IT,,,,,,,,BUT WAS HEADING TO TAKE OUT WASHER TANK AND START CHECKING AT THE PCM ,BEEN WORKING ON CARS ,AND CERTIFED HARLEY MECH. WHEN THEY STILL TRAINED YA AT THE FACTORY IN MILWAUKEE...FOUND THAT THERE ARE THINGS THAT JUST HAVE TO WALK AWAY, BLOW IT OFF, AND THEN WALK IN BINGO YA FIND IT,,,,THANKKS FOR YOUR HELP,,,JIMBO
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    IM ASE CERTIFIED MY SELF AND A MASTER ALIGNMENT TECH AND WORK FOR GOODYEAR SO I NOW WHAT YOU MEAN. AND I WANTED TO MUSH THIS THING W MY CHEVY BUT WELL YA KNOW GLAD I DIDNT KNOW LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP
  • jpflumjpflum Member Posts: 4
    HEY SURE WILL, MAY TRY TOMORROW,ITS 34 AND SLEETING, GARAGE NOT WARMED UP,,,LIKE THE OLD SAYING WHY TODAY, MIGHT BE DEAD TOMORROW,,,THEN SOMEONE ELSE CAN DEAL WITH IT..LOL WILL LET YA KNOW, AND KEEP PLA4KPS......JIMBO
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    did you manually unlock the door from the drivers side?..this is how you reset the factory alarm system..
    -also,my -97,witch i just rescued from a body shop where it sat for two years,had the auto lights,and the instrument lights were controlled by the slide switch next to the headlight switch..i took wd-40,with the straw attached,and gave the slide switch a two secound spray,then worked the switch several times,as this cleaned the contacts inside...it seems to have addressed the problem!!..worth a try!.. :)
  • portercable78portercable78 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 cherokee. This problem has been ongoing for maybe 2 years. When driving over 50 mph it bucks usually while going uphill and while letting up on acceleration. I have had it to numerous mechanics including the jeep dealer who had a chrysler mechanic look at it. no one can figure it out-all they know is that its electrical. ive had the computer replaced, as well as numerous sensors-including the cam and crank sensors. the engine light used to come on frequently-but now stays on all the time. obd code reads cam sensor, but not the problem. it runs fine otherwise-any suggestions?
  • jpflumjpflum Member Posts: 4
    hey ,pulled washer tank, pulled harness from ecm cleaned connectors, found middle wire on map elect. plug bare about 3" in nasty oily elect. tape, fixed that, and bingo, started,,BUT why LOL don't ya hate it when you really don't know for SURE what the deal was,,,,,,,thanks for your input and everyone eles,,,,,,,,,,jimbo :shades:
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    no problem glad your up and runnin good luck
  • gregjatkinsongregjatkinson Member Posts: 22
    getting same code and will not start unlees i turn key on pull fuel relay and start it from the starter relay put fuel relay in and it dies wont start from ign
  • staciwstaciw Member Posts: 1
    For several weeks my battery guage would spike to 19 and then go back down on its own or if I turned off the car and then turned it back on.....then last night my ABS light and check engine light came on. I was not real concerned as it has happened in the past and been nothing. I turned of the car and then went back out two hours later...tried to start it and nothing...would not turn over or even register it had a battery....no lights door ding or anything.....helpppppppp do not have a lot money to put in it so ANY adivice would be greatly appreciated!
  • ajarigoajarigo Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with their rear wiper coming on for no reason. My rear wiper will turn on with the wiper switch in the off position. Even when I shut off the vehicle the rear wiper will continue to run for about 30 seconds or so. I've already had numerous electrical with this vehicle.
  • dcarrejodcarrejo Member Posts: 2
    Update

    2000 Jeep grand cherokee

    Electrical problem resolved

    1st issue Gauges would work intermittently.
    Key Tumbler is bad. Had it repaired at dealer fixed all the problem listed above. 94.00

    2nd Issue
    AC would not work
    Blower resistor Replaced. 160.00

    Wish everyone the best of luck.
  • autobodywizardautobodywizard Member Posts: 2
    Here's the problem with my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
    Out of nowhere, when I go to get in the vehicle, as soon as I open the door, the heater fan comes on with no key in the ignition. The heater fan switch is in the on position when this happens but there is no key in the ignition and the ignition is in the off position. It happened a week ago and it killed the battery. at that time, I charged it and started it and shut it off, but its almost like the key was still on but it wasn't. The dash lights went off with the key but the fan and blinkers still had power.
    I unhooked the battery and waited a minute, hooked it back up but the fan blower and blinkers still worked with no key on. I unhooked the battery overnight and the next day everything was ok after I rehooked the battery.

    Today I opened the door and the fan started to run with no key in the ignition.
    I left the battery unhooked for a few hours, hooked it up and the fan didn't come on, until I opened the door.

    This is a nice vehicle but when I figure out the problem it will be up for sale.

    Any clues from anyone?
    Thanks, Dan
  • autobodywizardautobodywizard Member Posts: 2
    My Grand Cherokee is a 96 My post above I put 97
  • michael0156michael0156 Member Posts: 1
    Radio doesn't work and radio lights pulse on and off after you start the car... If you just turn the accessories on the radio works fine...

    No running lights, with the car running or off... All other exterior lights work...

    Dashboard lights don't work...

    Speedometer doesn't work...

    If I open any of the passenger doors there is a relay near the glove compartment that starts clicking...

    Interior lights on the door are on when the car is running and the doors are closed... they get brighter and dim with the same pulse that the radio lights are blinking, whether or not the radio is on...

    Interior ceiling lights are also affected...

    Fuses are all good...
  • NikJeepGCNikJeepGC Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an 05 JGC 2 weeks ago, and just this morning on my way to work, I experienced the dash panel lights all turn on at once, then while that happened, my speedometer, and gas gauge dropped and rose again after the lights went back off. It happened twice, and I'm pretty sure this thing has some issues, which breaks my heart because I love the car. :(
  • wolfdadgwolfdadg Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1993 grand cherokee laredo - the problem is -- the voltage gauge drops from 14-18 at start up down to 9 or lower as the jeep warms up or I turn on heater, lights, wipers and then wants to stall. The alternator is new but had it checked twice to make sure was working right, the starter is new. I even tried changing the PCM with one from another 93 ( wouldn't even start ). I put the original back in and the jeep started up. Not sure what to do now. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you -- George
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    take volt meater and make sure that the alt is in fact worling when on your jeep
    check wires by batt for corasisen
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how old is batt?
    if have a bad cell could cause computer to act up
    if new could also be the engnition switch (mounted on the bottom of steering coluem i think on the 05s not real sure though)
  • sexy_rednecksexy_redneck Member Posts: 1
    i have a 93 grand 5.2 LT. me and sum friends were on our way back from the coast when one of them turned the light on to the upper center console when the console light radio and computer screen went haywire is this a a fuse problem or a wiring problem and since tuesday i lost heater power door locks and all the above items i have listed ne help what so ever would be great thanks. If you would like to reach me directley you can from e mail or my space my email is bigsexy_fordlover@yahoo.com
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If you would like to reach me directley...

    If you keep the discussion here then everyone benefits. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • boveebovee Member Posts: 3
    I have a 04 JGCL, it has been in the shop 3 days now and is racking up labor cost. It seems to shut off whenever I hit any bumps in the road, at high speeds, only the speedometer and fuel gauge seem to be effected, they zero out and then come back. At slow speeds, when I hit a bump, it stalls. Mechanic says it is a short (no kidding!) but he can't locate it. Has anyone else experienced the same problems?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That doesn't sound like a short. It sounds like a broken circuit or bad switch. Have they checked all the electrical connections?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • boveebovee Member Posts: 3
    not sure what they have or have not checked, I got frustrated with the mechanic and picked up the truck today, now it won't start at all and the fuel gauge is reading empty, the low fuel chime keeps dinging, and when I drove it home, it had 3/4 tank. What kind of circuit or switch should I be looking for, and could this be a bad fuel pump or sending unit? thanks for your help.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The speedometer and gauges are all electronic and there are a number of electrical connections between the battery and these components. The problem could be at any of those junctures. I don't have hands on experience and don't know how accessible any of those would be so we'll have to wait for someone knowledgable to jump in here - anyone?

    I am a little surprised the mechanic didn't pick up on any of this (electrical, fuel pump, sending unit, etc.) if starting it is such a problem. Perhaps a new mechanic would be helpful?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • barnabyjonesbarnabyjones Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 JC/XJ that I bought used. Ive had it since early '01, all power options. Its always had electrical problems. Im thinking it might have something to do with the remote start the previous owner installed...

    First off, sometimes, most times actually, when I roll down the rear window on the driver side, the locks trigger. And then I cannot lock the car without doing so manually for a undetermined amount of time. Also, sometimes the car simply will not start, after I drive it for any length of time. Put the key in and the dash comes alive, but the engine wont turn over. I have to wait anywhere between 5-15 minutes typically for the engine to start. Doesn't matter if I take the key out or anything. Seems like the computer needs to reset?

    Ive asked various mechanics and they all have no idea. Ive never had the money to hunt down the problem...
  • sage3339sage3339 Member Posts: 1
    Bought a 2004 JGCL last August. Figured I would get something newer so my vehicle wouldn't nickel and dime me to death. Sadly mistaken.

    3 weeks ago I had to have the Throttle Position Sensor replaced, after doing some research this seems to be a common problem. (rough idle, rpm fluctuations in cruise control, high idle at startup regardless of engine temp.)

    I had some electrical problems. My radio quit working intermittently. I had to mess with rear driver side window button to get power to the radio. Last night driver side windows would not work. This morning none of the windows will work, instrument panel light cluster is lit up like a Christmas tree, fuel gauge, speedometer, tach does not work.

    I think that it is a problem that has to do with a short and moisture in door panel. This issue happens mostly after rain or if there is a melt from the winter. Does anyone know if there were any recalls? This seems to be a common problem.
  • suffixsuffix Member Posts: 1
    I got a 94 Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 6cyl. automatic. not a 4x4.. it just started to sputter recently; then die. i'm able to turn it over again and it will be fine for a day or so. I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the the lines from the inline filter. turned it on the on position yes pump was fine .however i did change the filter it was there and disconnected and only 12 bucks ....why not. Worked for another day and a half. started the same thing...... was acting like it was running out of gas bucking and what not. i popped the hood then i got a better idea of the prob. ...the engine stalled then i started to hear shocking like something was arching somewhere. i ran around to turn off the car and my tachometer was jumping like crazy from 0 - 6,000 rpm + up and down in variation. i cleaned my posts and dis cap. it seemed to be fine for about 8 miles and started again. please do you know what this is? i'm up for options and ready to get dirty. please help? :confuse:
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Ok. I went out and bought a used 85 JGC with a 95 4.0L transplanted into it for 700.00 bucks, solid as a rock, no leaks, runs, drips, or errors. Simple, eh? Nope. Apparently the previous owner was committed to a local "sanity re-establishment facility" due to the Jeeps proclivity to eat batteries. As far as I've been told he managed to ascertain that there was some sort of voltage leak but could not narrow it down to which system the gremlin had taken refuge. At that point, he ripped out most of his cranial skin with his hair and subsequently had to be sedated and rushed to a doctor. Witnesses were heard to say that there were muted cries of "Only in a Jeep? ONLY IN A JEEP?" emanating from the back of the ambulance. So I put it to you, dear readers; where do I start looking? :confuse:
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    AH HA! Part DEUX......So I was looking around under the dash, and I noticed a few things...First, the dome/overhead console fuse was blown. Second, the rear wiper fuse was on vacation. Third, the ignition circuit tag under the dash on the fuse block itself has some sort ot cobbled up wire running from it to some unknown point within the dash.
    And now for something COMPLETELY different...so the power lead to the main fuse/relay assembly underhood seems to be the area of suspicion. I did the ye old "remove a lead" method to see if I could elicit a spark, and VIOLA'! a flash of energy. So its somewhere within there.

    The search continues...
  • anthnycarranthnycarr Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a problem with the window and door lock controls on the driver's door of my 04 Grand Cherokee. My remote unlocks all of my doors except for the drivers door and none of the windows will roll down. The doors do not lock when I hit 15 mph and the interior lights stay on the entire time the vehicle is on. They eventually dim out when I turn the vehicle off and lock it, but it's taking a lot longer for them to turn off than usual. I've checked the fuses inside and under the hood and all looks well. everything else in the vehicle seems to be working fine. Any ideas?
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Ok..it sounds like either the lock motor on that particular door has gone south. Since that door gets all of the primary use, its not uncommon for the motor to wear out or get tired and weak. You didn't specify if the lock works when you use the button for that specific door though. My money is on the lock motor.

    Although...it also could be the ECM. Sometimes those damned things act up after a rain or if ANY moisture gets in them at all. I've pulled a few where the carpet and surrounding areas were bone dry and yet the ECM showed signs of moisture damaging and shorting.

    I'd have your local dealer put the ECm on a SOLUS device and check it out.

    Thats my opinion, though...ain't worth much...LOL
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