Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

145791015

Comments

  • john448john448 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    Hi there

    thanks for your reply and checked ebay and you are right there are multiple available. My only problem is that I'm looking for a Australian version (i.e right hand drive vehicle) and there are non available as far as I can see.

    Any suggestions where I can look for this item

    Regards

    John
  • sexy14mesexy14me Member Posts: 1
    My 01JGC check engine Has been on a while w/no prob. till now. I get maybe 12 MPG & beeps and says turn signal on while going down road. Any ideas ANYONE??
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Hello,
    I had the same problem with my 2005 JGC today. All the lights on the dashboard illuminate for about 5 seconds while driving. Then they go away. It happened about 10 times while highway driving for about 90 minutes. The engine NEVER hesitated so it seems electrical just don't know what it could be? Any ideas? Thanks, Joe
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    This sounds very similar to what mine did. All lights on dash came on while driving as if they were displaying like when you first turn key on. Some went out on their own, some stayed on till i pulled over, turned off jeep, then back on and they were ok. What I had observed was that the voltage gauge was pointing to the low side, although still within the good hash marks, apparently it was putting out about 12.5 vdc which i found out is low, a good battery puts out 14-14.5 vdc under load. Go to auto zone or sears, let them test battery. I was puzzled about the lights coming on, but since it was not preventing me from driving i ignored, then one day, when i had driven about 50 miles, went into a store, came out, jeep would not crank, called auto club and they came, tested battery, it was dead, replaced battery, no more problems, now volt gauge was higher also. I have since found out from posts on this board that the computer system of this jeep starts acting up when battery gets low, and while it may still start vehicle for a few more weeks its a sign of weak battery, it confuses the sensor readings and computer outputs, so check battery and if its not putting out around 14vdc, but closer to 12 under load(with engine on, ac on, lights on) replace. Please post results so we can all learn.
  • dj_moversdj_movers Member Posts: 15
    Joe,

    The best post on this topic that I have seen is #297: multiple loose grounds behind the dashboard.

    Regards,

    dj
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    dj, thanks for the heads-up on the post. I will certainly have them look at the grounds behind dashboard. It is worth a look. I also brought the jeep and had the battery tested at a local place on Monday. The said the battery was good at 12.86 volts. However, Jeep told me today I should still change the battery because they prefer voltage closer to 14V and since it is 5 years old it couldn't hurt to take a proactive approach. One of the other posts recommended a battery change also. I am going to do both. Change the battery and have the mechanic look at the grounds. Hopefully. that works. Thanks again. Joe D
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for the reply. I had the battery tested Mon. I was all set to have it changed but the local battery shop said it was still good at 12.86volts. The battery is 5 years old. However, I called Jeep today and they said they rather have it at 14 volts and I should take a preoactive measure and change it anyway. After reading your post and others I will change the battery tomorrow and next week have my mechanic check for loose grounds. I will keep you posted. Thanks. Joe
  • dj_moversdj_movers Member Posts: 15
    Hi Joe3d,

    FYI-My battery is brand new...

    Regards,

    dj
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    It hasn't happened again since the original incident on May 30th. I changed the battery 3 days later and had the Jeep mechanic check it last Friday. They checked it for faults and didn't find anything wrong. Waiting to see if it happens again. I'll let you know if it does. Thanks, Joe D
  • dj_moversdj_movers Member Posts: 15
    Joe,

    Good to hear. I hope that continues to work for you. The ground post issue sounds much harder to physical get access to. I haven't had any additional occurences yet, but I do not drive much.

    Regards,

    dj
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Please all people who suspect computer issues, do yourself a favor and if your battery is only holding 13vdc or less do not let anyone tell you your battery is good, a good battery is closer to 14vdc and this is where the computer will work best, this was my experience and many others going back years on this particular forum.
  • toddb2005toddb2005 Member Posts: 1
    I have read several posts, where others have had the same problem i have on a 2005 JGC, guages fluttering, seat belt dash light on, headlights flashing, stalling twice, radio changing stations, etc. I have not seen a posting of a resolution. The dealer says its the BCM, but they want 1200.00. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mwatk025mwatk025 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ 4.0 6 cyclinder engine. Similar problems posted by others with electrical problems.

    Car seems to have a mind of its own. When the car is started, occassionally it will stall out within seconds after starting. Other times it will start right up. However, once it's running the gauges can go crazy, odometer and speedo. The Battery, gas, and oil gauges will die when other electronics are turned on such as the lights, ac, or radio. Or upon turning other things things will turn off. Also, the AC never seems to be kicking on. The lights are dim, sometimes the mileage indicator will turn off. Immobilizer light, Airbag, and other warning lights will turn on. Not sure what the problem is, but I can say the CPS sensor has been replaced, the wires running through the driver door are intact and good. I'm trying to narrow down what the problem could be and any help would be appreciated.

    The problem is intermittent. Has been happening every few months for the last two years, but goes away on its own after a few weeks, leading me to believe there is an exposed wire somewhere.

    Also, here is a link to a youtube video of my problem, take a look:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdlAHyg25tE
  • dj_moversdj_movers Member Posts: 15
    Todd,

    I have the same problem, but no solution. The best post I have read that makes sense to me as an electrical engineer is #297: multiple loose grounds behind the dashboard.

    My JGC is '06 with 48k miles. I will sell it before I replace the BCM. These issues happen very infrequently.

    dj
  • topat46topat46 Member Posts: 20
    How old is your battery? Even though it may have 12 volts does not mean it's good for your jeep. I notice in the youtube clip the voltage on your dash reads close to 12 volts. I have a 2004 GC Lmt. It started acting up in its performance. The battery showed 12 volts. I replaced it with a diehard gold and had no further problems. It needs close to 13.5 and over. If the battery is aged, change it. I hope this works for you as it did for me.
  • mwatk025mwatk025 Member Posts: 3
    Changed the battery within hours of taping that video. It's Brand new and now reads much closer to 14.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Did the battery fix your problem?
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Ok, read your original post better, its been happening for 2 years intermittently, so you don't know yet if battery fixed. It may not have been battery, as 2 years ago it was probably still good, but you are asking for problems with the low battery you had, so 5 year old battery that was low was ready to be replaced. Do you happen to recall if battery gauge was close to 12vdc 2 years ago? It could have been since it was already 3 years old, but seems strange it made it 2 more years. Also in your video, lots of strange things happened after you turned engine off, that was probably the low battery not powering relays and sensors correctly. The battery should fix that, but just worry about things that happen with engine on and driving or at initial start up. My low batt caused warning lights at start up to not extinguish, also come on during drive, and gauges went crazy at start up. Then one day the car would not crank, no lights, etc, called AAA, they came and tested battery, it was at 12vdc which i was informed was not enough juice to turn on computer which would let other things work, he put new batt, and 99 6cyl laredo has been fine ever since, i hope that fixes you, post back in a month if you see better results.
  • mwatk025mwatk025 Member Posts: 3
    I can't recall where the battery was reading was two years ago, but since replacing it the gauge has been reading right at 14vdc. I mentioned that the problem was intermittent, I meant that it happens and will stay consistent for a few weeks and then one day i'll go out to my car and it'll just start running w/out any problems. It's currently in one of those states where it'll turn on but a/c is not engaging, or when you turn on one thing, another will shut off, or all the gauges will shut off. In the next week or two i'm going to bring it to a recommended electrical specialist and see what the diagnosis is. I'll keep you posted of any changes. Thanks for the help.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    edited June 2010
    A/C not engaging? It won't engage if r134 is low, if you have never added to a 2002 it may be just a little low, they sell cans of r134 at any auto parts store, with a gauge built into dispenser. If not turning on at all you may need to add a whole can or more. I got a good deal at BJ's warehouse club, 2 of the bigger cans for 25 bucks, thats almost half price to walmart where 1 big can is close to 20. I have had a slow leak for over a year. Last summer a large can could get me 3-4 months of constantly weekly check and top off, this year leak is faster i may need to let a specialist find the leak. Anyhow, if you are very low, as you add, gauge of can will appear to be cycling over pressure then down to zero and back up, ignore that, keep filling to it levels out, you will hear compressor engage as pressure corrects to good level and fill to correct spot on gauge. Last year i was able to slow down my leak by using a can of heavy duty sealer that can do more than just refresh rubber gaskets, can help seal metal leaks, that did not completely fix but got leak much slower, this year my first can was the one that also has ac oil in it, i figured i must be low with a constant leak, that can leaked quickly and another big can was needed to fill up again, as i said i will probably have to take it in to repair, hope its only a bad hose and not something else, i tried leak detector and uv light, but did not find leak.
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    My battery was original from Aug of 2005 GCJ. Almost 5 years so I had it changed. So far nop problems in the last week.
  • ggreen3ggreen3 Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum, but if this message gets posted, I just wanted to thank Mickyb1 because I also found a broken wire that had made all my windows go dead at the same time... It was an easy fix, just hard to find since no fuse or circuit breaker relay was broken. Thanks...
  • kman22kman22 Member Posts: 2
    any idea how to fix a liftgate lock? It does not unlock from the fob or the lock switch. Only way it so climb back there and mannually flick the lever inside the liftgate panel.

    do i need to replace the entire lock?

    thanks -
  • wkendmechanic1wkendmechanic1 Member Posts: 2
    while driving i hit bump and car just die and would not start

    car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
    out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
    at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for
    this is my transportation to work any help will be much appriciated
    thank
  • tomficcatomficca Member Posts: 1
    My 04 has the dreaded window malfunction.I have done all the testing to check for a bad or brocken ground in the door jamb and foud it to be OK. What is left to check or replace? HELP!!!!!
  • pureh21pureh21 Member Posts: 1
    My 04 grand cherokee has some issues i need help with please!!!!!! The door locks quit working on the drivers side door the remote still works and now all of the sudden the windows will not work and the dome light remians on as i drive. when i got in my car this morning half of the programmed raido stations were not there anymore either. If anyone could offer some advice or maybe a solution it would be greatly appreciated.
  • edanddeb98edanddeb98 Member Posts: 3
    did u get the problem solved Iam having the same problem any ideas thanks ed
  • camoman7camoman7 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee laredo,the cooling fan fails to work when it should. i replaced the motor and the relay located under the head light but still fails to kick on every time it should,i'm not sure what activates relay.
  • rutangrutang Member Posts: 2
    I have this same problem. Driver side door - no power windows, mirror, or locks. Passenger door locks work, no windows. Rear windows don't work.
    Here's what I did:

    Open the driver door. In between the door and the car there is a black flexible "boot" that covers the wires that connect the power windows, locks, mirror to the body of the car. Take that boot off. There are wires of every color. Look for a broken wire. Mine was the black wire, which is the ground wire. If I connect the 2 broken ends, together, the power windows, locks, mirrors work, and the dome light turns off when the door is closed.

    I bought a connector, and a wire stripper. Just need to connect the 2 ends of the wire, and all should be good.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    edited July 2010
    Before you replaced relay did you have a check engine light? I did when my relay went bad, by checking the code by turning key on-off the correct amount to display code it gave me code for fan relay- i replaced and it fixed. I also changed the fuse in the under hood box, as it blew open. my fan relay first went bad by being stuck on all the time, after engine was off it ran till it killed battery, then when i jumpstarted a few hours later when i discovered it, i had a check engine light, a blown fuse, and bad relay which never let the fan come on again. I first just replaced the fuses, there are 2 in box related to relay and fan. that did not fix till i replaced relay, which i had a mechanic do. There is a temp sensor which sends a signal to computer which then lets the relay go on or off, i am not sure where this particular sensor signal comes from, and i would be guessing to say maybe the sensor is bad and not sending signal to computer. Do you have a check engine light? Here is how to retrieve code, and a link which gives a list of codes. http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm

    Retrieving codes:

    Turn the ignition key until the digital odometer displays, repeat three times in succession and then back to "On" (On/Off, On/Off, On/Off, On). At the fourth "On" the odometer will be replaced with codes. If no codes are present then "Done" will appear.
    do not turn key far enough on to start jeep, only to on position that lets odometer light.
    If no check engine light, probably no code, not every malfunction will leave a code, but when my relay broke it did light light and give me code p1491 which was relay, there are codes on list for sensors, so if you have a check engine light this might help.
  • jmm1394jmm1394 Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hi guys,
    I have found a fix for the lights, windows and driver door problems with 1999 - 2004 Grand Cherokees.
    Inside of the driver door wiring grommet, there is a large, black ground wire that tends to break due to the door being closed over and over again. Just take a piece of wire (no more than say and inch and a half) and strip the ends of the original wire as well as the new piece of wire. Solder the new wire to the existing, and then wrap it generously in electrical tape. Install the grommet back onto the white wiring harness, and close the door to make sure everything works correctly.

    I also have a fix if your air does not come out of the right vents (or is stuck blowing out the defrost vents) and/or if your cruise control does not work.
  • jmm1394jmm1394 Member Posts: 2
    Its usually a simple fix. Ours was. There is a vacuum line that comes off of the engine and it affects the cruise control and the changer door for the HVAC system. This tube can either pop off the side of the engine or disintegrate somewhere in the engine compartment. On ours, the piece of tubing that went bad was right below the passenger side headlight and was about 6 in. long. It came out of the vacuum pump and into a t-joint in the vacuum line. It makes it easier if you remove the battery and battery tray. Other than taking the battery tray out, this is a simple fix.
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    Hello,

    I am having this same problem with my instrument cluster going on and off intermittently and even some times the ABS braking system engaging. (feels like a wheel coming off the bearings). I am now engaged in a "skirmish leading to a full battle" with the Dealership and may have to resort to the legal system to resolve this issue. It has been going on for now 1-1/2 years or repair history.

    Many (expensive) components have been replaced:
    some are $400-$500 each

    - Ignition Power Module (IPM)
    - Front Control Module (FCM)
    - Shift Control Module (ShCM)
    - Steering Control Module (StCM)
    - Ignition Switch (2x)
    - Fuse Block

    The Jeep Technician reports for example:

    a faulty IPM and reported faults in several Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in multiple modules. Also performed “wiggle tests”. Intermittent loss of Start/Run signal in ignition switch.

    and...

    “DTC’s B2100 and B212D and “all modules concerning these codes have been replaced. Replaced three circuits from Ignition Switch to Junction Block and two circuits from TIPM to Junction Block. Replaced Ignition Switch. Road Tested.”

    Each time the problem was considered road tested and fixed.. but almost every time, after taking car back on the road, it would fail with exact same symptoms, again and again. One time, not ten minutes after leaving Dealership. It took a 10 page letter (10pt single spaced) to describe the full history of this problem. Honestly, 10 pages !! :mad:

    Now I am curious after reading the thread on this forum, if after between $1500-$2000 in repair fees, that it could be as simple as a bad/defective battery and low voltage. Note: Jeep headquarters Engineering Support Department has been involved in the diagnosis and troubleshooting from almost the beginning of this ordeal

    I am mailing the letter to the Dealership ownership, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep HQ and cc to attorney. I originally purchased a full factory warranty as I bought the vehicle used but paid extra to get original factory warranty. The warranty expired in the middle of all this and Dealership then shows reluctance to deal with this even though, the very same and original problem, occurs again and again and is never fixed. their argument was that each new component failure represented a ner problem and solution. were this a new purchase and less than two years old then... :lemon:

    There is much more to this but trying to keep it brief.

    Any thoughts/advice/ideas are appreciated

    Thanks,

    Architect
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    edited July 2010
    I don't know what to think, i would guess the dealership would check your battery, and mine did eventually fail within 2 months after my problems started, but i would think if problems started while you had a warranty the issue is not unrelated as the dealers says and an attorney should pursue it as a single issue that started under warranty which did not get fixed. It's pretty simple to see if battery voltage is good, with engine running your dashboard battery gauge needs to be in the high end of good range, if its on the low side but still in good range then let a battery place other than dealer test, like sears. It needs to be close to 14vdc, at least 13.5 with engine running and also test good for starting amps. If it's 06 with original battery its near end of life and may be time to replace, but i doubt it would be your case that it caused problems going back a year and a half, but if its changed and it fixes problems, i would not even confidently say you had a low battery for 1 1/2 years, it seems it would have failed already. I don't know if low voltage would cause an ABS problem, i don't think a faulty signal from computer due to low voltage would trigger ABS, i have not read anything on threads about that.
  • jeepssuckjeepssuck Member Posts: 10
    Architect:

    The intermittent coming off/on of the instrument cluster bus provides a diagnostic ode that in most cases, does not indicate what the actual problem is. For example, on my 2000 JGC, the diagnostic code indicates that the issue was with the instrument cluster bus. I had a REAL MECHANIC test some if not most of the wires and didn't find a problem. He even replaced the instrument cluster, which didn't solve the problem.

    What many on these boards are finding is that corrosion forms on the contacts of the BCM. On the 2000 JGC, the BCM within the interior of the vehicle, under the dash near the glove comparment. Apparently the fix was to spray the contacts of the BCM with contact cleaner, get the contacts corrosion free, and the re-plug in the module.

    Unfortunately, dealerships seem to be about more replacing expensive electronic parts, and less about finding the problem. One thing to keep in mind: when the power source (i.e. battery) is disconnected, the electronic system in the vehicle essentially resets itself (similar to a computer re-booting). Once the battery is reconnected, you'll get anywhere from a few hours up to 10 days without problems. However, as you've discovered, the instrument cluster issue ALWAYS RETURNS. Try disconnecting the battery yourself for a few hours and check the results.

    When the dealership replaces one of the parts that you've listed, the first thing that they do is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. After the expensive part has been installed, the battery is then reconnected. The electronic system is then reset and the ICB appears to be functioning normally.

    As I mentioned, check/clean the contacts on the BCM. Next, you may wish to check the rubber boot that runs between the driver side door and the interior. The rubber boot protects wires; Sometimes, a wire becomes broken that may affect the ICB.

    Finally, it was recommended to me after much work and investigation, to attempt to find a reputable, experienced Jeep mechanic (one that doesn't work at a dealership). Good luck.
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    Did you ever resolve the Electrical problem? I posted entry #346 in this thread. Seems like very same problem i am having now with my '06 Jeep G.C. Laredo.

    Thanks,
    Keith
    ArchitectKMP
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    Hello and thank you for the reply and info and insight.

    Do you know if the BCM is "easily" accessible to the average user?

    thanks

    ArchitectKMP
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    Yes, the ABS problem is the most perplexing, as it is seemingly unrelated to the problem, but it keeps occurring . There are a few BUS circuits and mine is the BUS "C" circuit. It effects the modules I originally listed. The other threads list info about headlights and other eqpt like wipers "failing safe" and turning on or flashing. But I am to understand that my symptoms do not effect headlights etc.
    Note: There is a good forum called "Jeep Garage dot org" that has some interesting info.

    I am off to the post office now to send my letter (10 pages) to the Dealership to ask them to fix this problem or refund the over $2000 (incl rentals) that I have spent on this [back to square one] electrical repair/nightmare.

    An attorney advised to follow that plan as a matter of proper procedure in building a case. The letter also goes to Chrysler Group, L.L.C. in Auburn Hills, MI
    Where is the Jeep Engineer's pride up at the factory. They should be all over this stuff to solve and try at least to uphold the name and integrity of JEEP. But I digress...

    For a while anyway i could survive without the gauges but the A?C goes out too and it is not exactly cold outside these days. 105 degs now wit the Heat Index.

    :shades:

    thanks again,
    Keith
    ArchitecKMP
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    2010-08-01 10:14:00
    Update on the ongoing saga with my dash cluster malfunction...

    A user suggested that Jeeps are prone to problems relating to low voltage being delivered to the electrical system. it was stated that voltages less than approx. 13.5v could be a cause of problems. So... i went to Sears where I had purchased a DieHard battery (Jeep GC requires a special (truck) battery, not a typical car battery). They tested the battery and it delivered 13.9v to 14.0v consistently.

    I am still trying to solve this problem, as the dealer after 7 visits has not fixed it as considerable cost. ($1500-$2100 so far).

    Another supposition is that it may be a bad connector or loose contact behind the firewall (interior) and is the BCM Body Control Module. Anyone familiar with this component? and where to locate it?

    components replaced so far

    * Front Control Module
    * Steering Control Module
    * Shift Control Module
    * Ignition Power Module
    * Ignition Switch (2x)
    * Fuse Block

    One of the symptoms, is that the problem occurs when the vehicle experiences bumps in the road or general vibration, but that it is also now happening more frequently at idle. And occasionally the ABS initiates.

    Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.

    Keith
    ArchitectKMP

    feeling like i have a :lemon: (but know law does not apply to my Jeep)

    ***
  • ophelia5876ophelia5876 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7L with the same problem. It's been doing this for about 1 1/2 years. It cranks fine cold, but if you drive it more than 10 miles, turn it off and try to start it again.....NOTHING. I've figured out if I turn the key off and try again, while mashing the brake it'll start.....very weird....

    Have you gotten any answers to the problem???
  • doug_rdoug_r Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    Have you checked/replaced your pcm. I am having similar problems and looking at several posting sites the pcm keeps coming up as a common problem. It receives and sends signals to many other modules, often resulting in misdiagnoses of other modules being bad when it is really the pcm. It appears that as the pcm ages the potting compound starts to break down and shorting can occur from the assembly screws. Some people have reported fixing the problem by replacing the 1/2" factory screws with 1/4 or 3/8" screws.

    Good luck.

    Doug
  • ophelia5876ophelia5876 Member Posts: 4
    :mad: Thanks for the reply! We'll definitely check that out. The latest problem is the A/C not cooling.....seems it never ends.
  • camoman7camoman7 Member Posts: 4
    thanks for reply. no i had no chk engine light, and i checked for code by using ignition, showed DONE, so i replaced coolant temp sensor on thermostat housing,still nothing. at this point fan had quit running altogether,unless direct current was put to it from battery,which is how i crippled along for a few days. fuses under hood were o.k.,so i replaced fan relay under headlight for the second time and it is working fine.but i noticed that the relay itsely gets very warm,it looks like they have mounted it on fender well to displace the heat,it is hot enough that you can't keep your finger on it. i'm just wonder if this is the problem with these things.i was wondering if anyone out there has attempted to use a higher amp. relay,seems like alot of drag on engine when it kicks in, i'm no electric expert, but for relay to run that hot seem to me like would cause a failure in it eventually,i will try to find some info on that and put info on here...thanks barryz...
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    do the wires by the fan motor get hot? if so could be a dragging fan motor or bad bearings in motor
  • camoman7camoman7 Member Posts: 4
    the wires get pretty warm,but when problem originated shortly after i purchased the jeep i put a new fan motor on it thinking that was why it wasn't working,although even a new fan could be faulty i suppose,i think the fan motor is o.k., i had it hooked up direct from battery and ran fine with that rig on there,the fan motor does'nt get that hot though,i'll keep an eye on that though,i still have the original fan motor,i hooked it direct tth other day and it ran fine also...what a mystery so for,EH !!!
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    when you mount the relay on the fender, did the new relay have in the kit a tube of a creamy substance? The tube has a heat conducting silicone like substance that you spread on bottom of relay before mounting, use liberally, also put some on the spot relay mounts. It helps take the heat of relay and conduct it to bumper, it goes only on bottom of relay. When my mechanic put relay in, the tube was in the kit that came from dealer. Do not use a substitute relay, this part is actually not a relay but much more sophisticated, it will actually control the speed of fan, from zero speed, to slow, to fast, depending on what the pcm tells it to do.
  • imsimonmimsimonm Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2005 cherokee and my lights also flash if I manually turn them on in daytime
  • gcldeadgcldead Member Posts: 1
    I have on my 99 GCL a circle w/a key inside and a slash thru it on the cluster and my truck cranks but doesn't go on??? I was told it had to do with the alarm system. can I bypass the oem GCL alarm?????
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    edited August 2010
    This is not an alarm issue most likely. Are your other gauges misbehaving when you crank it? Specifically, is your fuel gauge at or below empty even though you have gas? If so, the likely culprit is your crank position sensor, which is located on top of bell housing and hard to get at. When it fails, vehicle will crank but not start as the signal from crank position sensor(CPS) is shorting out and not sending signal to pcm to let vehicle start. Fuel gauge will read zero, key light on dash will light. It is a very common problem, i do not recommend going to dealer, it will be around $350 if they decide not to rape you. I found a good local repair shop, i mentioned this is what i thought, they checked it out and verified, replaced part and labor about $200, part alone was around 75, which they got at a parts store, not dealer. Unless jeep is on lift its impossible to get at, and even on a lift an experienced mech will have a hard time. The part has to be adjusted after it is mounted, as it uses a magnetic sensor to measure crank position. That key light you see is in the owner manual shown to be part of the theft deterrent system, not alarm. You have a passkey system, which means key has a chip in it which must be recognized by a module behind the keyhole. It is possible that module went bad, not allowing jeep to start, however it is a proven probability that the cps has gone, key modules rarely to never do. If you were to replace that key module, jeep would still not start even if it had been bad, module and chip in key are mated, and a dealer must reprogram key to work, but that is not likely the prob if you also have the fuel gauge showing zero. I went through this last year on my 99 grand cherokee laredo 6 cyl and posted about it on this site either on this link or start problems link.Mine went bad at about 150,000 miles. Please post your results to help others. Important that you interview the mechanic, some are very familiar with grand cherokee problems, thats the one you want, not some hack in a chain store repair bay. When cps goes bad it will not light check engine light or leave a code, which is actually another indicator that it is cps.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Very likely you just need some r-134 added to ac system, you can get a can with a guauge to measure at walmart. Follow directions, it's easy. If within a month it fails again, consider buying a can of Super Sealer next to r134 at walmart, add that, then bring r134 back up to full. Don't waste money on can labeled leak sealer, probably won;t fix. I used super sealer last summer after r134 kept leaking and the leak sealer did not fix. the super sealer worked 1 year, started leaking again, added another super sealer over a month ago, and when i use my gauges to check pressure its fine, no need to add. Follow directions. you will need 2 gauges, so buy 2 r134 cans that each come with a gauge. When you add super sealer, entire can is added, use it after your system has leaked to low pressure and is not working. As soon as you have added entire can of super sealer, immediately have the can of r134 with the other gauge and attached it, even if you have good pressure at that point put a few spritzes of r134 in to make sure super sealer does not seal the valve on jeep you attach to, or you will seal the valve shut permanently. The gauge you had attached to super sealer is probably trash now, super sealer may have permanently sealed it, throw it away with empty can of super sealer. You will spend less than 60 bucks on this. My jeep is 1999 high mileage, blowing cold. Sooner or later these additives may hurt your system, but i'm good a year later, 160,000 on jeep now.
Sign In or Register to comment.