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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

1911131415

Comments

  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    Like I have said to many others on this forum. it is the electrical harnesses. Period. The harness defects tend to also burn out control modules.

    Read my earlier posts

    Sorry for bluntness. On quick break on mobile platform

    Architect
  • bhunleybhunley Member Posts: 3
    hey i was having the same exact problem with my 2001 model. after SEVERAL tows and trips to the mechanic, it ended up being the crank shaft sensor was going bad. Hope it helps!
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    What is the electrical harness? And is it expensive to fix. I was told I needed a new computer for the car. Is this what ur referring to?
  • missamel21missamel21 Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 2005 JGC (5.7L) with 53,000 miles on it.

    Issue:
    Like mech3, the car would randomly feel like it was stalling out when I would step on the gas pedal. This wouldn't happen frequently, but definitely at very inopportune times. The check engine light would come on and if I wasn't stopped, the car would feel like it was starting to shut down.

    I have taken it to the shop now three times, and this is the first time they were able to get an error code generated. Note, this is also the first time that the check engine light actually stayed on by the time I arrived at the shop.

    Potential Resolution:
    Like bhunley, I am having the crank shaft sensor replaced ($420) as well as a couple other sensors ($140). The mechanic said that when the crank shaft sensor isn't receiving the signals correctly, it essentially starts shutting down the car (or something along those lines). He did say that the error needed to happen a few times before the code would get registered by the computer, which is why they couldn't target the problem the first two times I brought the car in. Thankfully, they never charged me for those trips!

    Anyway, I'll post back in a few days to let you all know if that fixed my problem. Best of luck to you all...
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    There are a number of harnesses. There are also generally THREE (3) "BUS" circuits that are tied to various modules. One harness is ahead of the firewall (eng compartment) and other harness(s) behind firewall. it is designed so that certain electrical systems are on specific BUS circuits. I have heard of many with stalling problems and also of wipers or headlights turning on and off on their own.

    A technician told me that some of the circuits "fail safe" meaning that when they malfunction, headlights may go on or wipers may runs etc.

    My particular problem with my harness was for many times (5) diagnosed as a bad module here or there (refer to my earliest posts in these threads). Some modules were replaced more than once or twice. In my experience, some of the modules were actually OK, but the harness was shorting out modules and ignition switch, etc. I would not be two miles down the road from what was supposed to be a successful repair only to see same "crazy dashboard light show" happen again and again. They did not believe me until i filmed it on my phone's video capability.

    Quite frankly, with the new harness my Jeep is running so smooth and true and is like it was always meant to be. It idles smoother than when I bought it, as well as consistently performing well in all kinds of Wx.

    The repairs for all the modules replaced totaled $2100 for mine, which I paid over a series of repairs. (Oouch !!!) Then I got in touch with Jeep Customer Support and they were, IMHO, great about dealing with my issue. I was totally documented with dates, times , receipts, etc. I even had them speak directly with Jeep Service Manager as well. In the end they covered to cost of the harness so... I don't know what the actual expense was but BOTTOM LINE.. it was worth all the agro that i went through.

    Years ago I personally installed a new wiring harness on my '72 Honda 350CL motorcycle and it to never ran better.

    So, as one can see, I am "all about the harness" as being a prime source of many of the symptoms I read in this forum. Sadly, only one way for you to find out...

    Best o' Luck

    Architect
    06 Laredo
    103,000 and running smooth
  • champ424champ424 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee. I am currently having problems getting it started. It will start for 3-5 seconds and stall out. I checked the fuel rail and Im getting plenty amounts of gas. However on rare occasion it starts up, my gauges and sometimes windows and door locks dont work. Although my dash lights do. I checked for a faulty instrument cluster and a bad ground... not the problem. Oh and the security light is on! Any insight please? Thanks
  • sosjeepgirlsosjeepgirl Member Posts: 4
    This actually happened to me before and after a few days of diagnostics, my mechanic discovered it was the Skreem Module causing the problem, which I had replaced. If you google Skreem Module you'll see it controls a lot of the sensors and starter, etc.

    If it's not that, a friend of mine had the same issue (start for 3-5 seconds then stall out) and it was just his key, which he had to get replaced.

    Hope that helps!
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    I have a 2005 and just had a similar problem fixed. The key wasn't being recognized by the computer. Do the locks respond when you use the key to unlock/lock the doors? Mine didn't and after looking through the manual I found the engine will shut down after 2 seconds if the key isn't recognized.
    The part is about $170 and most of the time the dealer has to reprogram the key if it has a build in chip. Good luck, Joe D
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    Ok, before I put my car in the shop this week and get ripped off. I want to state again my problem to see if anyone has the same and what were u told. When my car doesn't start, I turn the key put it into drive the back into park and it starts right away. While driving, my dash lights goes nuts, and all the lights for PRND light up all @ the same time and then the car won't shift gears. My head light flicker off and on @ night, and my raido she to go from station to station without me touching it. Either its haunted or falling apart. Any advice.
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    The radio goes from station to station
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how old is battery?
    if you have battery going bad will change you voltage enough to seam as the computer has to re set cheaper than chasing other things
    i hav had to change batteries bout every two years or so here in az now have 237000 miles on it
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    I replaced the battery last year. No problems until one year later. Stopped @ the store one morning on my way to work. And car wouldn't start. AAA gave jump and it been crazy every since. Enhine lite comes on for days,, goes off the car runs fine. Engine lite comes back on and car goes crazy again.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i wood change the battery

    as you have to have it jumped wood start with battery as could be something loose inside bouncing a round
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    Same issues here as well. I give up. I've taken it to several electricians and no one will touch my car. I'm told take it to the dealer that its a known problems with the Jeep. Head Lights flashing, dash lights going nuts. Transmission sometime wotn shift. Its just so much and its been going on since we purchased the Jeep. In was in the shop 1 month after purchasing it with it not starting and the check engine light coming one. My aIr only bows on high, raido volume u have to turn several time to louden, and raido just changes stations right in the middle of a song to whatever it wants to play. They replaced it a week after we purchased it as well. I just don't know what to do @ this point. Don't have money to bounce around from place to place with no answers
  • jaedymackjaedymack Member Posts: 3
    ok, I too am having the same crazy electrical troubles. I guess I still haven't seen what the cause is. My sunroof will come open on it's own, my a/c will now only blow on defrost only and will not change with the selector switch, my factory radio will not turn the volume up w/o spinning the knob several times, and my electric windows sometimes work and sometime dont, and my cruise now does not work. The light comes on but when I hit "set" I get nothing. Thanks for the help. Matt
  • jaedymackjaedymack Member Posts: 3
    yea, mines doing the same as yours. I transmissions shifting weird too. It sounds like it may be wiring in the drivers door based on other peoples posts on here but the thing is we cant read the replies to other peoples post so I'm not sure what the fix is. I too dont have a lot of money to throw around. So any help would be very helpful.
  • larchavelarchave Member Posts: 19
    I'm going to take it into the dealer next week to see if they can atleast tell me what the problem is and what it will cost to fix. If it over a 1000.00 I'm out of luck. I've been saving money just for this issue. If I find out what the problem is. I'll inform you.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    edited August 2011
    Today i went out to my 99 JGC and was putting all the windows down in one go by holding all 4 switches, windows stopped halfway and would not move, aso no pwr mirror control and no pwr door locks from the driver control panel. The remote worked all doors except driver. I logged on to edmunds, found this fix, went out and found the big brittle black ground had snapped in half, stripped both ends back and put a twist on wire splice lug on, problem fixed! Also a problem i have had for about 8 months was fixed by this as well, the dome light would not shut off after door was opened, i had been manually turning off all interior lighting on the stalk control to keep it from being on all night and the red alarm light on dash was not setting and blinking when doors locked by remote. This ground fixed those as well, it must have been just barely hanging together last 8 months to provide enough ground current path for some features and not others.
  • mpippampippa Member Posts: 1
    While parking my 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport, the engine suddenly stopped. When I turn the key, nothing. The exterior and interior lights work, the door lock works, but the radio does not, the power windows do not, and of course, the car won't start. And the gauges are dead.
  • sassinsassin Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. They replaced key 3 times and module once. I need help. I am broken down right now and don't know what to do. I do not want to take it back to the Jeep Dealer where I had it fixed as they said, "they have no idea how to fix it". The dealer was very uncooperative and frankly not nice.
  • idzrvit67idzrvit67 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my Jeep for several years now and absolutely love it. Here's the problem, I hooked up a trailer harness to my adapter with the Jeep(aftermarket), the parking lights flickered then went out completely including the instrument cluster lights. I've checked all fuses and bulbs to no resolve. Can someone give a little help? I've run out of ideas.
  • grandpastoy1grandpastoy1 Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever find out what the cause was on the 96 Grand Cherokee flickering panel lights, Headlights? Was it a ground problem?
  • hardwarejimhardwarejim Member Posts: 3
    My upper hose blew a 4 in. rip on 100 deg. day at idle. Some bonehead replaced relay by leaving old unit on fender and hanging new relay in the air, after plugging it in. 40 Amp connector in fan plug melted. Dorman makes replacement relay with a pigtail 4 wire crimp connector. I added thermal grease and replaced zinc/steel sheet metal screws with slightly larger stainless, to prevent loss of pressure from rusting. So far, so good.
    I did see a supplier list a bolt on fan blade for 4.0 engine. It may use a little more fuel, but you no longer have to worry about unreliable electric fan and solid state relay failure. P.S. i worked in test and evaluation of high power computer power supplies for 20 years. This application is not a dependable design for a product used in a harsh environment.
  • eessaryeessary Member Posts: 1
    Judging from all the postings, many think this model is a :lemon: but my Jeep has 130K miles, 113K of which I've driven myself and never had any sort of problems at all.

    :mad: Yesterday, I walked out to run an errand and the remote wouldn't unlock the doors. Tried the spare remote and it didn't work either, eliminating the key/fob as having a dead battery. Got in, turned the key, it started up as always, ran about three seconds and died. Tried again and the normal indicators were lit but there was no reaction to turning the key; nothing. Called my mechanic who mused that it was probably the fuel pump. Didn't strike me as a fuel problem; too abrupt, felt more electrical. Grabbed my laptop, "Googled" starting problems and found one posting from what sounded like a mechanic. He made the following suggestion and it worked first try. Hoping it helps someone else here.

    :surprise: Open the hood and remove the positive battery lead. Leave it unconnected for five minutes and do nothing else. Re-install and tighten the lead. With the remote, alternately press the door lock and unlock buttons three times each. Insert key into ignition and start it up. Apparently, the anti-theft system can interpret several different events as being an attempt to steal the car and so it shuts off the fuel supply to prevent theft. Removing the battery lead causes the computer - and the anti-theft system - to re-boot and clear all faults.

    :) You can't imagine the relief I felt and how much I appreciate someone making that solution available. Hope whatever problem you're having is so easily, quickly and inexpensively resolved by someone's help.
  • mr_scottmr_scott Member Posts: 1
    go to your nearest Advance Auto, Auto Zone or the like. They will read your engine codes for free. Most likely you have a failing or failed Crank Shaft Sensor, Cam Shaft Sensor, or PCM (Power Control Module) which controls the firing of the injectors and timing. If any of the sensors are bad, the PCM will not know the position of either of the two shafts and will not know how to fire. It will then shut down the vehicle.
    It has happened to me several times.

    My friendly Advance Auto Guys helped me out.
  • agreen74agreen74 Member Posts: 2
    Hi. We bought a 05 JGC a year and a half ago and have been experiencing the same issues as others on this forum...currently, the headlights are flickering on and off so we can drive it at night. This seems to happen more often when we use the turn signals so not sure if that is triggering it? I replaced the ignition switch thinking that might be it, but did not work.

    We were also having the transmission problems of it slipping in and out of gear. We had the transmission check by a transmission specialist and physically it was fine and they said it's probably something electrical causing it like the transmission control module. We just took it to our Jeep Dealership finally to have a diagnostic run and they said it was giving them error codes that the Transmission Control Module was bad. They replaced it a few days ago (almost $900 for parts + labor) and hasn't slipped since, but we'll see with time.

    Meanwhile, the same funky electrical issues continue (lights flickering, fan/ac/heat only works on high, etc.)

    After much, much research online trying to diagnose and fix these problems it's amazing that there is nothing anywhere from an actual Jeep tech or mechanic about this issue and how to fix it.

    Please post if you find a solution and will do the same.

    Thanks!
  • architectkmparchitectkmp Member Posts: 16
    My now stock reply to so many messages like yours is...

    it is the main wiring harness for the "bus circuit" for which your electrical system is indicating a problem. I believe there are three bus circuits.

    A qualified Jeep technician can talk to you about this and how they indicate failure of components. Jeep dealers have a sophisticated computer diagnostic that is far superior to what the small mechanics typically use. It will point to modules more often than to the actual wiring harness. In fact I am not sure if their (or any) diagnostic is designed to and can detect a faulty harness. (?)

    I replaced many modules and some twice to almost $2100. After all that I replaced two harnesses and my Jeep 06 GCL has been running as smooth as can be ever since.

    See my earlier posts for more info re wiring harness :shades:

    Recently I did replace the right rear wheel speed sensor which failed and, while I was at it, replaced the spark plugs. Typical recommended mileage for spark plugs is 40k... and mine went 105k.. wow !!!
    The gap was at least twice normal but now with new plugs with perfect gap I am still not getting any difference in MPG. go figure.

    QUESTION: has anyone noticed that after turning a corner the Jeep loses acceleration power curve until on straight path. almost like to old carbs with a float valve?
  • patriotblue01patriotblue01 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    bear with me, bought my jeep new in 01, this year at 130,000 miles, replaced trani with new, fuel filler pipe, brakes, (always with the brakes) fuel line, muffler, rear end, have always maintained perfectly, now my pcm is gone, have been in contact with chrysler for three weeks, ordered part, they have no idea when delivery, hundreds on back order, even after market are on back order, apparently, according to dealership(s), the 2001 jeep grand cherokee is the only one (4.0) that is vin specific, can't reprogram a used one, and chrylser dealers have none, they are saying 6 months to a year, meanwhile, I have no car....this is my third jeep, all have gone 250,000 with good routine mileage, I can't get to work, etc....their answer, buy a new one, WHY!!!! for want of a $700 part, I would have a great car, no damage, rust, I have been meticulous with this car, and yet chrysler has no part for only this year/engine... why was there no recall, should a class action be started.... my jeep is a very expensive planter...I have put $8000.00 into it since June.... what the heck can I do...HELP!
  • sorterguru1sorterguru1 Member Posts: 5
    edited October 2011
    Has anyone seen this? I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee limited and about 3 weeks ago I noticed the left turn signal was not working. I parked and forgot about it. The next few days I saw that it was working???? It has quit about 3 or 4 times since but always works the next day. I plan to change both the front and rear turn signal lamps but any ideas after that???
  • hpalmatierhpalmatier Member Posts: 3
    I am havin the same exact problem to a tee with mine. we have spent thousands trying to figure this out. mine is throwing a 1686 code, all the warning lights are lit, gauges dont work, and the electric windows only work when the car is in the accessory position, but not when the car is running..did you ever find out what the issue is or whats bad????
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    did you ever replace the ignition switch?
  • melbistylzmelbistylz Member Posts: 5
    The problem is the PCM. Thee two screws are grounding the motherboard. Replace the 3 bolts with plastic ones and keep the PCM away from the firewall. The PCM is sending the wrong signals to your sensors that's why your having problems. Next your car will be backfiring.
  • hpalmatierhpalmatier Member Posts: 3
    going to try the ignition switch today. should know by tonight if that fixes the problems.
  • hpalmatierhpalmatier Member Posts: 3
    tried the ignition switch, still having all the same problems..anymore ideas???
  • jrmcarthurjrmcarthur Member Posts: 3
    To melbistylz, regarding the PCM. I originally posted with a intermittent, now fulltime issue with the remote door lock and gradual loss of speakers in the stereo system. I had done some research in the Jeep shop manual and suspected that the PCM was the culprit for both issues. Both the remote lock/ unlock system .and the stereo speaker wires seem to be run through the PCM. Can you respond to my suspicion and offer a solution if possible? If you need more info, please let me know. Your thoughts would be much appreciated. I can give you my email in required. Thanks!
  • melbistylzmelbistylz Member Posts: 5
    There are two small screws in front of the PCM. Remove them. They are located under the 3 PCM harnesses. Also on the bolts that gold the PCM to the firewall there's one on the right side and two on the left. Remove the bottom left. Then take an old shirt and stuff it behind the PCM to prevent it from grounding out to the firewall.

    This is how far I went. After expieriencing the same electrical issues, my crank position sensor went bad all of the sudden. Then the interior lights wouldn't go off. Eventually the car backfired blew my muffler round as a balloon. I was replacing everything including the ignition switch that locked up. Distributer, roter, basically bandages, then being the computer geeket that I am figured that the PCM is sending the wrong signals. I checked the PCM and noticed that the front cover is actually the MOTHERBOARD!!! Wow even I know this should be protected by a copper box or something. Well after removing the two torque screws I turned the PCM upside down and my car started stronger and I noticed that I actually get better gas milage. Does any of this make sence? I'm kinda replying fast so I don't have time to proofread my reply.... If you need a pic let me know.
  • mmaniacmmaniac Member Posts: 1
    I know your post is over a year old but I had the same exact problem. It is a bad sensor at the door keyhole. I only have a keyhole on the driver's side. Take the door panel off and you will see wires going up to the keyhole, simply unplug it from the harness, PROBLEM SOLVED! The only downside to this is you can no longer disarm your alarm with the key, you MUST use your remote to disarm. The bad sensor was telling the car the key was there to get in, it would turn the interior lights on and disarm your alarm. Hope this helps anyone else who may be having this problem.
  • agreen74agreen74 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks.

    I had the Transmission Control Module replaced at a Jeep Dealership to correct the slipping issue.

    As for the lights flickering issue, I had the Jeep Dealer also replace the multi switch (the turn signal/lights control) and that did the trick...you can tell the difference in how firm the new switch is compared to how loose the old one felt.

    One last note to anyone trying to fix anything on their own...make sure you buy original Chrysler/Jeep parts versus anything from AutoZone or a place like that. According to my mechanic, Jeep products don't do well with any parts that are not original Jeep.

    Good luck!
  • melbistylzmelbistylz Member Posts: 5
    I too am also a female, if you put the key in the ignition and turn it forward ( don't start it) just to the on position then off three times within 5 sec. So turn forward, back, forward, back, forward, back. The check engine light will flash and the odometer will show some numbers. Write the numbers down the last number being 55. End of codes. Then google it on your computer: "jeep Cherokee Error codes (numbers) and you will find there are tons of websites that have the codes listed. Then you will know what the problem is. But the PCM is located under the hood, passenger side on the other side of the glovebox.
  • aboutmyjeepaboutmyjeep Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee was running fine, then one morning while taking my kiddos to school the speedometer started going crazy, bouncing all over the place. A few minutes into this the rest of the gauges started to do the same thing and it started to idle really weird like I was running out of gas, but there was still half a tank left. I did notice that the volts were reading half of what they usually do. I tested the alternator and battery, both are fine. My local dealer hasn't a clue what it could be. Can anyone please help me as to what this could be? The snow is coming soon and I have been without a vehicle for 2 months. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for your time and Jeep wisdom!
  • sorterguru1sorterguru1 Member Posts: 5
    A strange problem poped up with my 2001 Grand Cherokee. About 3 weeks ago the left turn signal stopped working. I thought that I would check the bulbs that weekend, but I forgot about it and a few days later I noticed that it was working. Now it will stop working and the next time I drive it, or later on the same trip but sooner or later it will start working. I can not pinpoint anything that I can think may be causing this. Has anyone else seen anything like this?????? Thanks for you help. Jerry.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    replace bulb holders in tail light they go bad bout 10 bucks each
  • tvguy666tvguy666 Member Posts: 1
    I know you posted this a long time ago but I just wanted to let you know how much it's helped me... I had the EXACT same problem. I was happy to read how simple it was to reset the system. Just unplug the ground, wait a minute, then reconnect. Everything's fine now.

    Now all that's left to do is change the heater core, Blend doors and Hydraulic radiator fans' solenoid and my 2002 G.C. will be like new :~1 Guess that's why Jeeps acronym is Just Empty Every Pocket.

    Thanks again!

    Rob
  • sillababe41sillababe41 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee and would do a slipping thing, the gauge would go up and it was like a stand still, then it would reengage itself. I thought I was out of gas like 3 times and had it towed the last time, cuz it was just chugging and wouldn't drive. It was a simple wire on the Throttle Position Sensor, the wires were exposed/split open. You could either need the wire replace or the TPS replaced or both. Jeep has been running fine now. TPS is the brains to telling your vehicle how much airflow, and fuel delivery to your computer of your vehicle.When its defective, it causes intermittant burst of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. So it is a very important part. Its located right under the throttle body at the end of the shaft right on top of your engine. It can affect your gas mileage and how your vehicle runs. The wire is like $5 and if you do need to replace the TPS its about $35, plus labor. Shouldn't take longer than 20-30 minutes to do. Good luck!
  • lttdlttd Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    Hello I hope this post may help some people if they are having the same problem with their Jeep. A family member owns a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.7 V6. The Jeep was bought brand new and she never had any major issues with it. The vehicle was well taken care of and it only has 73,000 miles on it.

    On May 9, 2011 there was a problem with the dashboard and tail lights going out. You would be driving and all of a sudden everything on the dashboard would go dead, rear tail lights would go out, but the vehicle would still run fine. She shut the vehicle off, went to restart it and everything would come back on as if nothing happened. It was brought up to the dealership and had to be left there for two weeks.

    No error codes were found on the computer, and the instrument cluster was replaced which seemed to fix the problem. The Jeep had two incidents where the dash went out again and it was brought back up and checked. There was a loose connection in the wiring which was fixed and the vehicle was fine. The total cost for the repair was $943.22. I could not believe the cost and this is why I hate new cars with extra electronic devices that I feel are not needed. It is so much cheaper to fix my 1975 CJ5 which runs great, lol.

    Back to the 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee, in the month of Aug the check engine light would come on and off. Which happened a few random times but the vehicle ran fine and everything worked or so we thought.

    The last week of Oct my family member went out to do some shopping and all of a sudden on the dashboard all the brackets on the gears were on as if the vehicle had all gears engaged but the vehicle was in drive. Also the check engine light was on too. When it happened the vehicle went into a low gear and was dragging. She pulled over shut the Jeep off and turned it back on. Everything came back on and seemed to be okay and she made it home. We turned the Jeep back on once again all the brackets on the dashboard were on the gears even though the vehicle was in park and the check engine light was also on. I noticed the brackets were flashing on and off. So we called a friend who repairs older Jeeps and asked if we could bring it up. I drove the Jeep everything was fine. I stopped at a red light when the brackets came on and the vehicle went into a low gear. I pulled over and tried to restart it until it would go off. I got lucky and made it up to his private shop. These are the codes that came up on his computer.

    #1 P0700 Trans Control Sys Malfunction
    #2 0404 Invalid Data Recovered From Control Module Gear Shift
    Note: P0700 Came up twice

    He said you have to take it up where they have the computer to put it on. Also sometimes the codes are not saved on the system in your vehicle or it might take several times for the computer to save it. So I made my way home and we had the vehicled towed to the dealership. I t was unsafe to drive and we did not want to ruin the 4x4 or transmission.

    On Nov 2, 2011 the vichle went up for repair and on Nov 4, 2011 it was fixed. They replaced the PRNDL/ESM Module and so far today the vehicle has been okay. The repair cost $1,199.66. I really hope that the Jeep is fixed and we do not have any more issues. The computers and repairs are so expensive and can be a nightmare. I dislike having a computer decide if my 4x4 should be on or not. That should be up to the driver to engage because what do you do if the computer malfunctions and you can't shut it off? I hope this helps and if anyone has had the same problem please let me know.
  • pole2pole2 Member Posts: 17
    I went to my Jeep Cherokee today and it won't start.
    Jeep acted strange this week. Alarm went on three times this week without any reason.I got message on dash board that tailgate are open but they not.
    And finally before I turn key my wipers went on on perfect weather.
    Now when I turn the key I got all light on the dashboard and after 5-7 second everything disappear and looks like there is now power. Of coarse engine not starting. I can only hear some noises going i think from transmission.
    Anybody have any idea. please help
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Hello, I have a 2005 JGC and the vent, temperature and directional knobs all do not illuminate now. Makes it hard to see during night driving. Could this be a fuse? If so, where would it be located? Thanks, Joe
  • donnie11donnie11 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    95 jeep cherokee 6cyl. 4.oL Turns over but no fire. Have replaced crankshaft sensor, ignition coil, coil wire, plug wires and plugs and rotor. Rotor is turning when engine turns over. I cant figure it out! I do hear a clicking coming from one of the relays, but I swapped relays and both work meaning I tried the relay in another spot. Fuses are all good and fuel pump has been changed. Any idea on what next? Am I down to replacing the distributor or is there something else to check? And have a happy turkeyday everyone.
  • champ98champ98 Member Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 98 jeep G/C that has a draw on the battery will drain battery in couple days. so far i have replaced battery with a new one and traced draw to the cluster fuse in fuse panel on pass side kick panel. if i pull fuse draw goes way but I lose interior lights, dash gauges, and radio will not work but lights up. I have tried testing the dome lights they come on and go off with the timer as they should. has anyone else had this problem ? driven me nuts any help would greatly be appreciated. thank you
  • mock2mock2 Member Posts: 11
    Had problems with charging system gauges shut off lost all power showing discharge on amp meter. changed alternator. ..no more engine light gauges all work showing normal reading on amp guage everything works at the same time. but radio lite and clock lights still go out only when headlights are on With the click in glove box
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