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Oldsmobile Intrigue Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • samantha_josamantha_jo Member Posts: 5
    I want to know if 235/70/16 tires will fit on my 2002 Intrigue??? I got a guy i can get a great deal on them but i aint sure if they will fit and need to find out fast.

    Thanks
  • knucklebustingknucklebusting Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know what might be going on with my 99 Olds Intrigue (3.8) with starting issues? I have had the starter and battery tested. I get lights on the instrument panel when I turn the ignition over, the fuel pump runs, but I get no starter cranking. I do see the security light on solid, it does not flash as in some other posts. The steering column does not lock, but I can't remember now if it ever did?? Any sugggestions would be greaty appreciated.
    Thanks
  • kimphotokimphoto Member Posts: 7
    I have these indicator light up then I usully go over a speed bump or a dip in the roadway. I also get a wheel wobble/shudder when I apply the brakes. I think the rotors need to be replaced, the disc feels too thin. It feels like the anti lock system is trying to engage. What would these warning lite up when I only i drive in a dip where the shock absorbors get compressed? Also I cant get my cruse control to work anymore.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    It sounds like your wheel sensors are bad. They are on the wheel hub assembly. A mechanic may be able to repair the sensor without replacing the entire wheel hub assembly. More than likely you will have to replace the wheel hub assembly.

    Based on your description, you should get it looked at right away.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    On my 2001 GLS, the PCS, Trac, and Service lights are on, but the ABS lite is off. Has anyone seen this before? I have driven it just fine for over six months like this, with no noticeable effects. I would think a bad sensor would trigger the ABS light. The mechanic wants around eighty bucks to read the chassis computer.
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 intrigue with the 3.5 6 cylinder. Over the past few weeks it has been dying while I'm driving. It always starts right back up, which is odd to me. Here are some details.

    When it dies I lose all power to the dash, lights kick off and guages drop, but the radio still works. There have been a few times where the dash has flashed at me, requiring me to put the ignition switch in the off position before restarting. When the dash doesn't flash I can just throw the car in neutral and restart. There have been a few times where the odometer/trip meter will kick from one to the other after it dies. I have also noticed that it will occasionally kick over to the tripometer after sitting off for a while. I'll have it set to odometer when I park the car and it will be set to trip meter when I restart it. The car has had an aftermarket head unit installed, and did not have a factory bose system. The head unit was installed a few months before this started happening.

    I've been doing some searching and have seen quite a few issues with the ignition switch. Does this sound like it could be my problem as well?

    Thanks
    Terry
  • fuzionfuzion Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my 2001 Honda Odyssey when all of a sudden all of the lights came on and the the engine died and I have not been able to get it started since. I replaced the battery and had the alternator checked and everything was fine. If anyone else has any suggestions please let me know.
  • adub1adub1 Member Posts: 3
  • ctdunnaganctdunnagan Member Posts: 8
    if you also get a hard shudder when taking back off sometimes you may be getting readay to have transmission probs ... at 40000 i had to replace my trans cause the torque convrter blew up and that is how it started all light going over speed bump and a hard shudder did it about 4 times and then went out
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    It sounds like it could be the ignition switch.

    Are there any "check engine" lights on? Does your Intrigue start up right away in the morning? Are there any other drivability issues?
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
    It starts great in the morning, and after dying. The SES light is on, but it's in relation to the air pump. No other drivability issues that I can tell.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    edited August 2010
    I would get the SES checked again just to make sure there are no other codes. Otherwise I would look at the ignition switch.
  • vascodagamavascodagama Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Intrigue that has been trouble free- relatively
    1. new brakes, 2. Ignition switch key doesnt always turn smoothly.

    however, i have had identical electrical problems as you refer. I have given a diagnostic to a shop today and hopefully will get an indication in the next day or so.
    I had all dash lights come on, windshield wipers came on and off, flashers and i had extremely hard steering control. luckily i was driving real slow and was able to stop. car restarted instantly but its is not worth taking a chance.


    i see elsewhere in the forum of flickering dash lights, yes, i have had it since first few weeks, unable to duplicate at shop--random.

    All in al
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
    Rechecked the SES light, still showing secondary air system only. Going to try cleaning the switch this weekend. Thanks for all the posts, I really appreciate it.
  • knucklebustingknucklebusting Member Posts: 2
  • wife_try2helpwife_try2help Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like your BCM.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Possibly, but just replace MM first and find out. rockauto has a reasonable price. front one is not fun.

    To those doing their own:

    Be prepared to spend a lot of time on this.

    Have adequate tools

    Lift car and put front on jackstands
    Remove pass front wheel
    support engine with 12"x12 plywood on jack, don't push to hard its aluminum
    remove rear subframe bolts 18mm
    lower engine a bit to lower subframe
    remove engine mount bolts to subframe 15mm
    raise engine some
    remove rear bracket and mount for engine mount through wheel opening, lower subframe as needed for clearance.
    remove/install engine mount
    reverse

    Then the front one...*$*#&

    The radiator, header, AC lines, starter, subframe were all in the way. ended up reattaching rear subframe, then dropping front subframe, battery cable, removing starter, front air dam, upper engine mount.
    remove mount bolts
    I "barely" got a 15mm gear wrench on the upper bolts between the header / heat shield and ac lines... lower bolts I used a socket, 3" extension, u joint, 12" extension. Old front mount was broken and way bad. Remove mount from bracket and install new, note orientatoin.
    Reverse order for install.

    By time I finished I was covered in grime and grease, despite about 14 hand cleanings. And I had access to a two post lift, two jacks, air tools, and still took a long time. :cry:
  • oldsmobile4oldsmobile4 Member Posts: 2
  • intriguedriverintriguedriver Member Posts: 2
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Be prepared to spend a lot of time on this.

    Have adequate tools

    Lift car and put front on jackstands
    Remove pass front wheel
    support engine with 12"x12 plywood on jack, don't push to hard its aluminum
    remove rear subframe bolts 18mm
    lower engine a bit to lower subframe
    remove engine mount bolts to subframe 15mm
    raise engine some
    remove rear bracket and mount for engine mount through wheel opening, lower subframe as needed for clearance. exercise curse words.
    remove/install engine mount
    reverse

    Then the front one...*$*#&

    The radiator, header, AC lines, starter, subframe were all in the way. ended up reattaching rear subframe, then dropping front subframe, battery cable, removing starter, front air dam, upper engine mount.
    remove mount bolts
    I "barely" got a 15mm gear wrench (if you don't have one go buy one) on the upper bolts between the header / heat shield and ac lines... lower bolts I used a socket, 3" extension, u joint, 12" extension. Old front mount was broken and way bad. Remove mount from bracket and install new, note orientatoin.
    Reverse order for install.

    By time I finished I was covered in grime and grease, despite about 14 hand cleanings. And I had access to a two post lift, two jacks, air tools, and still took a long time.
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
    Long story. But. Here goes.

    I was experiancing overheating on the highway. It was cold about 20. I would turn the interior temputure control off and the car would not overheat. So,when I ran cold air from outside over the heatercore, car would overheat. The coolant runs through the heater core all the time and activates the engine thermostat to allow coolant to flow through the radiator. So my origanal problem was the cold air was cooling down the heater core and not activating the thermostat. I saw online that there was a replacement thermostat housing and thermostat. I took it to the garage to have them replace the housing and thermostat and give it a flush.

    Low and behold after they were through I was driving home and I got no heat. Nothing but cold air. That means no coolant through the heatercore and at idle the car starts to overheat. I take it back and ask why they send me home with no heat. They begin trouble shooting again and deside to pull the the water pump(which I told them was not the problem) and we check it out. Perfect condition. And yes its the original pump
    . After arguing that I told them so and telling them it was not the radiator because the heater core provides the heated coolant to activate the thermostat they deside to replace the heatercore. After replacing the heatercore same thing. No heat and it would overheat when idling.

    Well I decided to give them a lesson and I had them pull the intake line to the heatercore and check the flow from the motor. There was flow. Not a jet stream, but flow. It came out pretty good. I had them re-atatch the heater core inlet and detatch the excit line. No flow during idle. Hum. When you rev the motor above 2000 we have coolant flow. At idle no flow.
    At that point they never charged me for the new heater core and I left because obviously they were just capable of replacing parts and had not troubleshooting skills at all.

    So I go home and make sure the system is properly burbed and no air bubbles.I even tryed taking the return line from the heatercore off at the thermostat and ran the motor while filling it with a funnel through the thermostat housing while dumping the overflow back into the funnel. I bled the radiator with the car jacked up on the right side and got air out buy releasing the radiator burp plug on the radiator.

    Still no luck I still have no heat now. Im out of ideas. Whatever they did they made it worse. At least I had great heat before they started. No oil in gass, no coolant in oil, no tail pipe plooms. Anyone have any ideas on how or what i can do? If they really replaced the heatercore then that leaves me with and engine blockage. Any Help?

    Thanks
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
    OK, let me ask this.
    1) Does anyone have a coolant flow scamatic of the 3.5L(LX5)
    2) Is there anyway to flush just the motor?
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
    First of let me say to those who own a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Don't believe everything you read.

    Second let me apologies to the auto shop were I took my vehicle to be serviced. Even though they tried there best to troubleshoot the vehicle, and misdiagnosed allot of things, the one possible cause they were correct on. Plus they did what they could to make a customer happy.

    Third. The problem ended up being a HEAD GASKET.
    After taking it to a proper dealer, they diagnosed it properly. Unfortunately the head gasket blew completely out on the way home from the dealer. So now I have to change the head gaskets out or get a long block.

    Fourth. After looking at the price for used car prices, I think I will shoot for the long block. Why you ask? Because I don't have the room to drop the motor out to do a proper head gasket replacement and also if a head is bad it would cost even more money. So I have a dealer do it right the first time and even though it would cost more than the car is worth, I could not replace the car for a decent car for the price of a new motor. Then I would at least know its good for another 1000,000 miles, at least until the trans goes.LOL I can buy more trouble to fix, but why? the quality of cars that I could afford would have high mileage, and surly other issues.

    Fifth. Rumors I want to dispel that I have read every were regarding the Intrigue.

    1) The cooling system requires pressure in order to overcome the spring pressure of the thermostat to get flow to the radiator.

    No. The thermostat will not open unless enough hot fluid from the heater core opens it. Its designed to run hot. If your car is overheating then its a flow issue from the heater core whether stopped up heater core or head gasket causing lock in the system.

    2) Air in the system will prevent flow.

    Maybe. If its allot. The system is designed to be self bleeding of air, except for the radiator which has its own bleeding screw. Since coolant does not always flow through the radiator it must be bleed independent of the rest of the system.There is a tube which comes off the top radiator hose that runs back into the reservoir bottle that self bleeds the system when everything is flowing properly. Take the cap off every once and a while to release excess air. It does not take extreme measures to burp the system, but the use of a vacuum coolant filler by your auto repair shop would be a bonus.

    3) Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet cold must be the heater core.

    Maybe not. As in my case at idle I was not getting enough coolant pressure to get it to flow through the heater core. It ended up being the head gasket failure which created a lock at low idle and did not allow coolant flow.

    4) Take out the thermostat and it will be fine.

    That would be a no. This engine needs the thermostat for proper engine temp and coolant flow. You need the coolant to flow through the heads and motor in the first place to keep these aluminum head and parts from warping. and causing things like head gasket failure. Taking the thermostat out is just ignoring the main issue of flow.

    Closing. I love my intrigue. It drives nice and has a comfortable cockpit. Since they don't make it anymore and Oldsmobile is now defunct, maybe in 30 years it will be worth something. Or not..LOLOL
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    Am on my way to have the codes read (again)on my 99 Intrigue. It's been doing wierd things intermittently since had the transmission replaced (second time).
    Now the service engine soon, check engine, and trac off lights are on constantly.

    Following things happened after mechanics worked on the tranny:

    shifter was loose (like wasn't seating properly in each gear)
    key in ignition was 'loose'...meaning sometimes had to wiggle it
    dash lights were going on and off intermittently - service eng soon, trac off, etc
    gas guage was going from full to empty and back and forth
    RPM gauge was back and forth

    Through all this intermittent gauge problem, service eng soon, trac off, etc lights would be on and off, BUT the car was running well (maybe a slight loss of power).

    Now, besides the warning lights being on, only gauge not working is the fuel gauge.

    Codes read were P404, co240 ABS, 404EGR, 463, 1571, 1605, 1610, 1626, 2961

    Took it to a pretty reputable mechanic and he said it was too much work to try and track down the problem. Said I should take it back to the place last worked on! At least he didn't charge for the diagnostics.

    Car won't pass inspection with the warning lights on.

    Ideas anyone? Thanks!
  • a1alphaa1alpha Member Posts: 1
    Also, be sure you are holding pressure in the surge tank.

    My surge tank was just slightly warped around the cap area and was loosing pressure slowly through the over flow. I found one online for $70.00 delivered Make sure you get a new cap when you change it. (2 nuts on top pull it up and disconnect the hoses) That's it. of course I flushed the radiator as well. (NOT so fun) It was plugged ( NO FLOW). This is my expirience. Service manual says to flush it at 150k anyways.
    ;)
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    99 Olds intrigue w/ service engine soon light on steady; sometimes the trac off light goes on and also the service vehicle soon.
    Car running well except for maybe slight loss of power sometimes (but it's such a powerful engine, maybe it isn't running as well as it could).
    Gauges were going crazy awhile ago but now the gas gauge is the only one that's not working properly.
    Battery may need to be replaced (5 yrs old and a tiny bit of trouble starting...hardly noticeable).
    Codes being pulled are P404, C0240, ABS, Hvac, etc etc
    Thing is, think it's all related. Could it be because the battery is going? Could it have to do with the EGR circuits. Wiring harness? Ignition (they messed that up when working on it)?

    This all started after mechanics replaced the bad tranny they put in a few months before. They did a sloppy job and I am thinking maybe messed up wiring or something.

    Any ideas before I take it to yet another mechanic for diagnostics? Need it to pass inspection this month and with the darn light on, won't.

    Thank you!
    Diana
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
    I would have them start with the ground system. Since the whole engine/trans subframe was removed to change the trans, ground wires are a good place to start. Also have them check all the connections. Then if they cant find it after that they need to hook it up to a dignostic machine to check for bad electronics. Its a long process, just be patient. Whoever removed the trans, if they offered a warrenty, thats who you need to take it back to first........Tell them its not right and to fix it......
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
    Thats good advice. First thing I checked and changed.
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    Thank you for that advice! I am taking it today to have 'reputable' mechanics check out what they can (electrical/grounds). Then on to the place that replaced the tranny (twice). There is a warranty on the transmission...but not sure if their 'work' is guaranteed!
    Will see!
    Thanks again!!
    Diana
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    This is follow-up to my post re: SES, trac off lights being on intermittently. The car would not pass inspection throwing codes...primarily P404 (EGR). The EGR valve was replaced and the SES light is off. NOW, the trac off light is on steady. What is going on? The mechanic who put in the used transmission (all the problems started after that), said there were no wiring issues (grounds good, wheel sensors checked out), etc. So why is the trac off light on steady now? And I don't mean I've turned it off. I cannot turn it on!

    Thanks for any help with this one.
  • theblueberrytheblueberry Member Posts: 6
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    This is a follow up to my 'Help! SES, Trac off' message...

    Now I have more unresolved issues! After I got the car to pass inspection with an EGR valve replacement, the code P404 went away...along with the SES light.
    Good news, right? Well, what I STILL have are the Service Vehicle Soon and Trac Off lights coming on....traction control and cruise stop working. Also had hard starting which I have never had (even in the coldest weather here). That (the hard starting) began after the EGR replacement.
    Through all of this, the car runs fine once it starts.

    Had already been to AutoZone and had them check my battery, which was fine...BUT the diagnostic strip said 'check charging system, alternator and connections'. The guy who checked the battery there said...maybe a parasitic drain on the battery. OK.

    Took it back to the place where they replaced the transmission (twice) and the EGR valve. Mentioned the SVS and trac off light issue, but they didn't have time to deal with that...though they kept it all day.
    Long story short...they replaced the battery for $152.00. Said it was fine.
    Really??? Next morning, same thing...hard starting.

    Yesterday, took it to a dealership. They found the battery connections corroded, cleaned them and it started fine.
    This morning is the test...temp here is 14 degrees...so if there is going to be a hard start issue, it will be today.
    The interesting thing is, I drove around a bit after the dealership cleaned up the battery connections, and the SVS and Trac Off lights did NOT come on, as they have been doing.

    That's another issue I will be watching today, because those lights always come on eventually....oh, along with the Security light occasionally.

    I have gotten some great advice here, and really appreciate it. Problem with mechanics is that, in general, they don't troubleshoot, just replace parts.

    Will post what happens today!!
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    This is a follow up to my 'Help! SES, Trac off' message...

    Now I have more unresolved issues! After I got the car to pass inspection with an EGR valve replacement, the code P404 went away...along with the SES light.
    Good news, right? Well, what I STILL have are the Service Vehicle Soon and Trac Off lights coming on....traction control and cruise stop working. Also had hard starting which I have never had (even in the coldest weather here). That (the hard starting) began after the EGR replacement.
    Through all of this, the car runs fine once it starts.

    Had already been to AutoZone and had them check my battery, which was fine...BUT the diagnostic strip said 'check charging system, alternator and connections'. The guy who checked the battery there said...maybe a parasitic drain on the battery. OK.

    Took it back to the place where they replaced the transmission (twice) and the EGR valve. Mentioned the SVS and trac off light issue, but they didn't have time to deal with that...though they kept it all day.
    Long story short...they replaced the battery for $152.00. Said it was fine.
    Really??? Next morning, same thing...hard starting.

    Yesterday, took it to a dealership. They found the battery connections corroded, cleaned them and it started fine.
    This morning is the test...temp here is 14 degrees...so if there is going to be a hard start issue, it will be today.
    The interesting thing is, I drove around a bit after the dealership cleaned up the battery connections, and the SVS and Trac Off lights did NOT come on, as they have been doing.

    That's another issue I will be watching today, because those lights always come on eventually....oh, along with the Security light occasionally.

    I have gotten some great advice here, and really appreciate it. Problem with mechanics is that, in general, they don't troubleshoot, just replace parts.

    Will post what happens today!!
  • psweeneypsweeney Member Posts: 3
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    Posted in January about strange things happening with my gauges....tachometer, etc were all going crazy. Also SVS and trac off lights were coming on and staying on.
    Then, hard starting intermittently began.
    Had that checked out and new battery installed.
    Same problems.
    Finally, alternator replaced and the gauges are fine and SVS & trac off lights are not coming on.
    Now.....why was it so difficult for the mechanics to figure out my alternator was bad?

    Just wondering.

    Anyway, it's a shame that my car's body is being eaten away by the salt (tons of rusted areas), because I still think the 3.5L engine is great and the ride is just fine.
  • ronandcoronandco Member Posts: 2
    we do not have a lift so we are trying to separate the motor from the trans. we believe that we have taken all the necessary bolts out from the engine to trans. we tried hoisting the motor out a few times and it wouldnt come. now we are stuck, still assessing the bottom to see if there is any miscellaneous brackets or bolts that are holding down the engine or that are causing the trans and engine to split. please answer this!! we are legit stuck!
  • philsiclephilsicle Member Posts: 2
    How can we tell if the ABS pump is going bad or a potential hazard? Thanks. Phil
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
  • terryg80terryg80 Member Posts: 6
    Recently my 2002 Intrigue has started making growling noises from the transmission. At first it would go away once the car shifted into third gear, and a bottle of Lucas stop slip quieted it down for a few days, but the noise has come back and seems to be there through all gears. Also today it was making some crazy noises when I was starting it. The noise goes away when it is in park or neutral.

    Am I safe in assuming that it is the torque converter?

    Thanks
    Terry
  • ronandcoronandco Member Posts: 2
  • philsiclephilsicle Member Posts: 2
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Dealer can use Tech I or II to retrieve ABS / chassis codes. Your ABS / Trac / Brake lights may illuminate on dash. The pump should energize after about 8mph. And if it doesn't pulsate when braking hard on slick surfaces, there's probably something wrong. But lack of ABS is only a hazard if you don't know how to modulate your brakes, which you should know regardless.
  • gigi84gigi84 Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 01 oldsmobile intruge an well these are the problems sometimes it wont start for maybe between 10 to 30 mins an when it does finally try to start it takes a while an it makes like a air noise for maybe 1 min an then its stops but now when i drive it it also makes that noise maybe 5 times an stops like its trynna pull in air but when it makes that noise my lights dim an also some times my blinkers dont workk an my speakers cut in and out im really going threw it but i need my car recently i had to take it to auto zone an plug it up in witch it told me it was my crank sensor an maybe one of my wires or fuses was bad so i changed the crank sensor it sounds good when u start it now but i went out in the morning an it toook 20 min again to start but when it did it didnt take that extra minute so i guess the crank sensor worked everyone tells me i need to check my wireing but were is it? can anyone help me
  • chosynonechosynone Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 oldsmobile intrigue 3.5 v6. There is a drain in the system, a very big one. Got a new battery and new alternator and connectors are good. I've had it in the shop for a little over a week now and the mechanic hasn't figured it out yet. He pulled the gen 10 amp fuse and the draw goes down a bit and there is a fuse inside the car that is draining but still no luck what it could be. I need help.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    This post isn't about an Intrigue, but it does contain some good info and ideas what other things to investigate.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef2398d/5459
  • gumegume Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    Hello there, new to the site of Oldsmobiles, and in the constant pursuit of learning new things, i hope somebody can clarify the following a bit, ben reading a lot on the subject but with work and always stuff to do around the house is tough to just sit around a computer reading, anyway, i need to change the wather pump and probably t stat on my 99 intrigue, started to leak around wp gasket, and ben reading several posts regarding this and overheating etc, also that because of how special the wather pump works as well as the special t stat is for this model's cooling system and how diferent it is to other cars, it needs OEM (original) parts instead of autozone, i ask because i had allready bought wather pump from autozone but not yet installed, i do not want to do it twice, i understand Most OEM parts are beter but also on some theres no diference except the price tag, changing w pump and t stat, bleeding etc is no problem so question is: is this models cooling system so special it will not function the same with NON OEM parts ...?? or is it Just the Thermosthat that is so special and i can go with autozone W Pump and T stat from dealer, because there is quite a diference in $$ and these are tough times, and you gota save $$ anywhere you can. Also, is thermosthat really important to put back in or is it just the same to take it out and not to put it back in, i hear some people do that, but
    need to understand if this is ok to consider or will it create somekind of problem in the future and what that is....??
    Thank you all for your attention and comments.
  • dancingfeatdancingfeat Member Posts: 2
  • dancingfeatdancingfeat Member Posts: 2
    For those having problems with this yr and model, here's my story as it might help someone else experiencing the same..Bought a 99 Intrigue with 137K miles. Dude i bought it from wasn't str8 with me when i bought it from him. When I showed up to buy the car it was running already. Should've suspected something right then, but I was too trusting. Test drove it, seemed ok. Bought it, took it home. when I tried starting it next day took 3 times to start. Next day 5, next day 10, etc..took it to a mechanic, he said it was the camshaft position sensor..375.00. Still had the same prob..gave it a tune up..200.00..still the same prob..finally tried the starter..350.00 and problem is SOLVED..you might want to have the starter checked b4 all else..for this model and yr its located under the car, not under the intake manifold as I've heard in the past. Best of luck..I'm happy now, lol...
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