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Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems

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  • Got my all metal handle from:
    http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/?N=0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&PN=0+9437&VN=- 4294967117+4294959021+4294958905&Nr=AND(universal:0)&sv=0&sc=Most+Popular:Tailgate+Handle

    your existing handle should also be black and not seen anyway. yes a pain to replace, but you get to know your SUV.
  • I wife desperatley wants a power controlled hatch back on our 2004 toyota Sequoia. We cannot afford to sell ours and upgrade- only 64K mi. and in perfect condition. Is there an aftermarket power unit anyone knows of? S.O.S HELP!!
  • I've got a 2006 Sequoia and the rear hatch handle just broke today. Just ordered a replacement all-metal handle from Amazon. YouTube has some videos on repairing this (even some redneck work arounds that costs $0).
  • We purchased our 2006 Sequoia new in 06. Not more than 6 months after the purchase the rear hatch locking mechanism failed to open the door. Took it into Toyota and received a $450 enema. Chalking it up to not knowing the history of this defect, I paid the bill.
    Approx. a year later, here we go again. Into Toyota it goes. Wife get a call the mechanism is full of dust and not releasing. She informed the service guy we live in the country and drive dirt roads every day. He told her, get this, "the vehicle is not made for off roading". She told him it is a 4 wheel drive vehicle with the off road and towing package. She asked him to put his statement on the invoice. Of course he refused.
    I have since replaced the locking mechanism 4 time myself. I have replaced the handle on the door twice.
    As for the handle, purchase only a metal replacement. They can be found on ebay. Before you install it, get a stiff piece of wire and wrap one end around the area where the cable attaches up and over the spring to the little "ear" that is depressed when the hand engages. This is to give more durability to the handle without bending the "ear".
    TIPS: As for the locking mechanism, get some brake kleen and silicone spray from your favorite parts dealer "NOT TOYOTA". Open your rear hatch and remove the plastic cover protecting the lock. Put the straws in the brake kleen and silicone spray cans. Get a paper towel. First spray the brack kleen inside the lock catching the dripping with the paper towel. Repeat until fluid flows clean. Allow to dry. Follow up with a light coating of silicone spray. Leave door open for an hour or leave winows down overnight to allow to air out and dry. Repeat process once a month. The grease Toyota puts in the lock is a dust collector. You need to get all the grease out of the lock to prevent future problems. This has worked well for me.
    Too bad becouse it is a great vehicle otherwise. Unfortunatly TOYOTA HAS DECIDED NOT TO STAND BEHIND IT'S PRODUCT as demonstrated by the history of this defect.
    We are once again in the market for a new SUV. It will not be a Toyota. We require something that be be driven on something other than concreted and the manufaturer stands behind.
  • I got this from another site. www.justanswers.com

    ToyotaTom :
    The first thing you'll want to check is the power back door cancel switch on the dash
    ToyotaTom :
    This will disable the power back door and it will be rendered inoperative
    ToyotaTom :
    It should be labeled "pwr door off"
    ToyotaTom :
    If this button is pushed IN, then the back door is turned OFF. If the button is OUT, then the back door should be working
    ToyotaTom :
    If this button does not make it work, then it will need to be taken in to the dealer for a proper diagnosis. We'll need to plug in the laptop and look at the full data list of everything the back door is seeing, and determine what isn't right. It may be a touch sensor, a latch out of adjustment, a little limit switch, or a bunch of different things. Unfortunately this will be a hands on project that only the dealer is going to be able to communicate with the correct computer to retrieve the data necessary for a proper diagnosis.
  • My 2005 Toyota Sequoia recently came back from the Body Shop after some accident which required the entire rear door be replaced.

    The rear door has lights integrated into the door itself which appear to be brake lights and reverse lights.

    Upon return the RED lights in the Rear Door do not work???

    When should they come on;

    a) when headlights are turned on
    b) when brakes are applied
    c) hazards
    d) never
  • sfclakesfclake Posts: 1
    Hey jafwo, do you have the name of the mechanic who fixes the rear hatch handle on the sequoia, I live in San Bernardino CA, mind just broke. Thank you, my email is, sfclake1960@yahoo.com.
  • lctskilctski Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sequoia and have had to replace the back hatch latch 8 times!!!! The window hasn't worked in 5 years due to rust and the entire door is rusting!!! Rust under the brake light and around the window! When is Toyota going to stand behind their vehicle and recall this? I would love to have a functioning back door in my very expensive truck I bought new in 2003! Problems started at year 1 with 45k miles!
  • timflantimflan Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    I'm a DIY kind of guy. So using the instructions here, plus some YouTube videos, I tackled the liftgate hatch handle replacement this week. My findings...

    •The "All Metal" version on Amazon is MOSTLY metal, and appears to be much better quality throughout. It weighs almost twice as much as the original.

    •Getting the trim off the inside (with the hatch closed, unable to open) is easier if you do it from the OUTSIDE, through the window.

    •Be sure to close the window before you start unplugging electrical connectors.

    •The two rubber plugs covering access to the impossible-to-reach 10mm nuts that secure the handle to the door would have been REALLY convenient, had I discovered them prior to doing it the hard way.

    •It's important to seat the cable housing into the clip on the new handle assembly. The narrow "saddle" near the end of the cable housing fits tightly into the fork on the handle assembly. It's so tight on mine that I couldn't get it in without using a pry-bar to exert a bit of force on it. This was the trickiest part for me, honestly. Don't take a shortcut and just pull the entire cable housing end over the fork...it can slip off later, inside the door. Do it right.

    •SECURE THE CABLE HOUSING to the rear wall of the liftgate body. If clips are missing or broken, use some duct tape. This is important, because the window can catch on the cable housing if the cable housing is free floating in the door cavity. If it catches, bad things happen. I was lucky, and was able to diagnose and repair the NEW problem I inadvertently introduced with my mistake. Which brings me to the next item...

    •If your liftgate does not lock OR unlock reliably, you may be able to fix it yourself. Symptoms:

    (A) Door lock/unlock actuates, but you can't open the door even when you pull on the end of the cable.

    (B) Door lock/unlock actuates, but the door is always unlocked.

    Good news: Both (A) and (B) might be caused by the same issue. It was in my case. I was SUPER-fortunate in that I was able to get the door to open by fiddling around with the door lock/unlock and the window until it opened. Once I had it open, I played around with it in a variety of configurations, which is how I was able to experience both (A) and (B) intermittently.

    This really deserves it's own whole post, but I'll cut to the chase: If the cable housing has been yanked (by the window mechanism, in my case), it may have bent the forked clip where it attaches to the latch (not the handle...the latch at the bottom of the door). If you bend that forked clip back so it's square to the entire assembly (mine was pulled out a tiny bit, not quite square to the rest of the unit), you'll allow enough cable to return when the handle is released for the little levers to get back to their full at-rest positions. It's like adjusting the brake or shifter cables on a bicycle; the relationship between the end of the CABLE HOUSING and the end of the CABLE is critical. The little levers need to fully return in order for the door-lock actuator to be able to positively engage/disengage the latch cable.

    Boy, this is impossible to describe in words. Sorry about that. Unfortunately, in the heat of battle I wasn't about to stop and take pictures or video.
  • Why didn't Toyota install an interior latch opener!?? This is ridiculous!! I would think this would be a safety concern if anything! Cars can pop trunks from interior, mini-vans can pop back door latches with an interior button... WHY CAN'T SEQUOIA? I seriously think this should be a design recall since the handle keeps breaking and it is a safety hazard!
  • My 2005 SR5 rear hatch door latch finally snapped last week. After 150K miles, I thought I had one of those vehicles that didn't have that problem, but alas, a week ago I went to open it and "snap", the latch broke. I decided to take it to my Toyota dealer, and after three days at the dealership (didn't need the vehicle for that time) and $550, it is repaired. I agree with previous posters that Toyota should take responsibility for this part, since, in my opinion, it's not a normal "wear and tear" item. Also most door mechanisms last the lifetime of the vehicle. At least the dealership has a 12 month/12K guarantee on their work, so in that time I can decide whether to keep the vehicle or sell it.
  • Hi,
    I have an 04 Sequioa and the rear window stopped working about two years ago. I never bothered to fix it.... last week, the tailgate handlw broke and i had no choice but to tackele the problems.

    I learned that the Toyota replacement handle is a "plastic" piece of junk and many owners have had multiple failures with the factory replacement handle. I bought one at napa for about $55 that is "metal" and very sturdy.

    THere are several great youtube videos out there that walk you through the repair of the handle. watch a few then print out this

    http://www.piranamedia.com/Toyota/ great step by step... Thanks Piranamedia.....

    While i had the door apart, i also took a shot at the broken window problem. there is a defective "break" that must come out of the existing unit. It's only two nuts. I took the break out and reset the unit by:
    1: turning ignition to on;
    2: holding power window in up position for 10 seconds;
    3: turning car off.

    the motor reset. power window works perfectly. no new motor required.

    thanks all for posting. It made it worlds easier with your knowledge and walk throughs.
  • We're you able to have your car locked and unlocked? I have the same issue. I bought a complete new power controller for the rear but I still cannot lock the car manually or with remote control. Please help.

    You may email me at choua795@gmail.com.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    Emails may get you personal help but not help others. Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum.Thanks.
  • I have had the rear handle on my 2007 Sequoia replaced or "fixed" 4 times in the last 2 years. My local Toyota dealer is a joke. I complained to Toyota customer service online, but they say they have no record of any issues with the rear handle of the Sequoia.

  • hamp3hamp3 Posts: 1

    Door locks in my 2007 Toyota 2007 SR5 are locking and unlocking randomly without activation. In 20012, a Toyota dealer determined that the rear door latch was broken and the window motor was shot. They replaced the rear door latch mechanism but said the rear window motor was shot. Dec 2013, the door latch failed to open again. I had the door latch repaired again. Window still not working. This pass weekend 17-20 Jan the door locks started locking and unlocking randomly again on its on. Currently the rear window is now stuck in the down position and will not close while engine is on or off. There's got to be a short somewhere. Any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.

    Walt

  • ppikeppike Posts: 1

    I had the rear latch replaced in 2012 for $500.00+/- and again this week for $300.00. The dealer gave us a break on the labor.(Hah). My car is a 2001 model and it seems the latch lasted for 11 years the first time and 2 the second. There should be a recall on the latch.

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