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parkway2
My old toy truck was out of warranty when it happened, but Toyota new they had a problem with that transmission and replaced the bearings for free.
Bob
Thanks again...
Regarding Nissan Pathfinder's 240 horse power engine, after 30,000 plus miles, I would say that it has decent power, but not spectacular. You still have to strain the engine when you go uphill with 4 adults and to maintain 70 mph on a interstate. In my opinion, a V8 is definitely needed for a 4,200-pound SUV like Pathfinder.
And horsepower alone does not necessarily translates exactly into how the car will perform. For example, the Acura MDX also has 240 hp, but its 0 to 60 is almost HALF SECOND shorter than Patherfinder. As someone mentioned in a Nissan SUV board, the horse power ratings of Nissan no longer make much sense any more.
Steve
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or buyout is arrived at? Is it based on pure depreciation? A blend of depreciation and profit? I am not contemplating leasing at this time but I have always been curious about how the final lease-end value is arrived at. How is it higher than figuring out a straight loan using the same term and payments? ( I realize that at the end of a car payments schedule you own something and at the end of a lease you own nothing) I was trying to figure this out using a schedule of
lease payments multiplied by the term of the lease and found that the cost of the lease was
about 40% more expensive than simply using the difference between the residual value
subtracted from the selling price using some known interest factor. Please enlighten me.
The residual is always fixed at the beginning of the lease. It is in writing on your contract. It is the amount you can pay for the car at the end of the term. Profit is not built into this figure.
You seem to be asking more about how payments are calculated. Payments are a simple A+B calculation. You take the gross capitalized cost (sales price plus taxes, fees and added product minus any down payment) minus residual and divide by the number of months in the term. That is the "A" portion of the payment and represents pure depreciation.
The "B" portion of the payment is the gross cap cost plus residual, multiplied by the money factor. Money factor varies greatly from company to company and varies by credit situation. At the moment, money factors can go from a low of .0028 to .0048.
Add "A" and "B" together and you have your monthly payment.
of the equation. I looked at the Toyota Canada Web site under "Price Your Toyota". For
illustration purposes, say I was to lease a 2002 4-Runner Ltd. Price excluding Taxes is
$50,830 CDN. The residual is $21,765 on a 48 month lease at 6.9%. The difference is
$29,065. Monthly Lease Payments (excluding taxes) are $815 for a total paid of $39,125. On a
straightforward loan of $29,065 over 48 months at 6.9%, monthly payments would be
appox. $695 for a total paid of approx. $33, 360. This represents a difference of about $5765.
What is included in this figure?? Thanks, I am counting on you to enlighten me!
If Toyota of Canada is using an interest rate, rather than a money factor, I can't help you calculate the exact payment. Money factors and interest rates are not figured the same way, but as a rule of thumb, if you multiply a money factor by 2400, you get the approximate interest rate. Therefore, your 6.9% rate translates roughly into a .0029 money factor. Plug that one into your figures and see how it comes out.
only partially related to a certain rate of interest but contains a component of "lost opportunity
costs" which is a way of saying what the leasing company (TCCC) believes it could have made if it had invested in ventures other than leasing. Pegging it to an APR is not a true representation of the cost of the lease to the customer. Please correct me if this is not the
case. Thanks!
By the way, there is one advantage to the money factor method of calculation. With an interest rate, you pay more interest during the first half of the loan term. On a lease with a money factor, you pay equal amounts of depreciation and cost of money with each payment. It makes it very easy to figure out your payoff at any given time. Just take your residual plus the depreciation portion of your remaining payments.
Bob
I went to my dealer and they acted like I was crazy to suggest such a problem, but they ordered the parts and fixed it (under warranty). Now when I drive a couple of miles after filling up my gauge doesn't go to 1/4 tank.
I'm having another problem with my driver's side mirror being distorted. It's been this way since I bought my truck in May '00. The dealer replaced it twice and they are aware of this problem, but they're all defective. They said it's a manufacturer's problem (not a Toyota part) and basically they can keep changing the mirror but they're all be defective and then they say "most people are just living with it". I can't "live with it" because it is highly distracting and dangerous. It takes away from my driving pleasure. I joked that if I got into an accident, I would sue Toyota because it's their defect. Seriously, I am sick of this problem and want them to take a good mirror off another truck or something. Or give me a truck that doesn't have this defect. Isn't this a safety issue? Don't I have a recourse other than "living with it"?
Every time I talk to their corporate offices, they tell me they are working on it. "It's the manufacturer, not Toyota". Well, last time I checked it said Toyota on my truck, not some other manufacturer. It's going on two years now and I want a distortion free mirror. Any suggestions. Please help. Thanks.
I live in Phoenix and that 10 Deg makes a big difference. Is there any way to adjust when the compressor turns on and off?
Thanks
http://www.outdoorwire.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=13;t=010199
summer and came across a Toyota Service Bulletin while looking at a book called "Lemonade"
in our local library. I talked to my service advisor who was more than happy to replace them
under warranty (which was due to run out in 4 months). I must also add that I replaced all
four of factory shocks with Bilsteins less than a week later. What an improvement in
handling and general ride although it is much "harder". Toyota must have been aware of the
problem for some time before they issued a general recall.
I haven't seen one with the flaps installed.
Thanks..
Gary
Steve
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I'm eager to see what the 2003 4runners will be like but I'm also looking at getting a 1999 4Runner. I was looking seriously at 1997 Land Cruisers but, in the end, the gas costs would be a problem with the amount of driving I do. Being 6' with a tall trunk, I can't fit into a 4runner with a factory sunroof. I want to have the center differential (and locking rear differential) which I think limits me to a 1999 or 2000 Limited (SR5's didn't have the center differential, correct?). Can those be found without sunroofs? So far as I can tell, a sunroof is not part of the limited package although I'm sure its common. Without the sunroof, I have about 1.5" between my head and the headliner. A good quality aftermarket topslider sunroof will only take 3/4" of headroom so I should still fit. Is it possible to find a center-diff model w/o sunroof? I beleive the center-diff began in 1999 but if not, please let me know what year it was first available.
Thanks,
Sean Reid
As for the current generation of 4runners, do you see any downside to the new AWD system (2001 and forward). You've explained it well and I've read a few random comments from people about losing speed suddenly in a corner when one tire slides a bit, etc.. Any cons in your experience? You're a real asset to the list; thanks for your help.
Sean Reid
Take my current Tundra as an example. With the V8 engine and little weight over the drive wheels, I frequently must modulate the gas pedal when pulling out of gravel driveways. I loose power because the tires have no traction. If I had the A-Trac system, the throttle would be reduced for me. Neither option is really ideal though, so I would just make sure I was in 4WD either all the time or at least when approaching slippery intersections.
With the Runner, you have less problems with this anyway. Only having a V6 and a fairly heavy back end, the wheels are far less likely to slip in the first place.
PS. Have you read Cliffy's, 'Toyota System's Explained'? It's at the top of the SUV menu. Good luck!!!
Sean
However, I'm concerned about the higher than average rating for death rates. That's a measure of the likelihood of a driver being killed or seriously injured once a crash has occurred, and is derived from actual on the road data.
http://www.crashtest.com/toyota_truck/ie.htm
This is odd, given the high IIHS front offset crash results.
I'd appreciate any input on these results.
You can always go back and delete your posts at any time too with the Delete Button.
And please lose the signature on your messages - it's bad enough that us hosts are required to stick our tag line at the end of our messages. Your sig file looks like spam, and soliciting is a no-no here. Thanks!
Steve
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The other thing I can suggest isn't so much of a fix but rather a way to get around it. I have had many tall customers looking at Runners. About the only way they can fit is to recline farther back. To ensure that your arms still reach, this will mean moving the seat forward a bit which means bent knees. See if you can take an extended test drive like this and see if you can be comfortable in this position.
As I mentioned in my reply to your off-list message, my signature is normally part of all my e-mail messages and postings and isn't intended as spam. In fact, I participate in several motorcycle lists as well as a Land Cruiser list and my sig has never even been mentioned. But I will make sure it isn't used here.
Back to the topic.
Steve/cliffy1, thanks very much for the reply. You're quite right about the liability issues. I do realize the risks of modifying a seat bracket and also your position (as a Toyota dealer employee) which would wisely point you towards discouraging such a modification.
Within the BMW motorcycle community, virtual and otherwise, modifications like this (and far more drastic) are done routinely. In my mind it's a matter of how well thought out and executed the modification is. We'd like to think that the manufacturer's designs for seat positioning with respect to steering wheels, airbags, etc. is precise and intentional. To be sure, Toyota is no doubt always looking for the design compromise that benefits the greatest number of potential drivers. Naturally, test dummies have to be standardized, etc. and as a result very tall or very short drivers can inavoidably be left with less than ideal designs.
I feel fairly sure that a competent machinist can create new rear brackets for the drivers seat which match or exceed the strength of the OEM versions. If I sell the truck, I'll make sure the OEM brackets are reinstalled. Or...maybe this can all be done with seat foam mods.
Since I really like this vehicle, my only other options are to buy a 2001/2002 SR5 and have a top-slider sunroof installed or wait for the 2003 model (which creates some logistical challenges). Given the choice between altered seat brackets/seat foam and an aftermarket sunroof I'd rather look at the less drastic option first. Thanks for the van-conversion shop tip; I hadn't thought of that.
Thanks also for the suggestion about the driving position change. I drive long distances often and can only recline so far while still staying alert and comfortable. I appreciate the idea though.
Any other tall or tall-trunked 4runner owners out there? This board seems mighty quiet right now.
Best,
just plain Sean, headed out soon for a ride in the evening sun