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Is a classic car right for me?

astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
I've always loved the styling of the older classic cars but have shied away because of potential reliability/cost issues. But now I'm thinking that I might make my next car a classic, and keep my current reliable Toyota Corolla in case my new car is in the shop. As you can probably tell, I want my classic to be a daily driver. I'm debating between 2-3 different options I might take.

1) A cute 2+2 roadster like an Alfa Romeo 1750, an Austin-Healey 100-6 or MK, a Sunbeam Alpine, or a VW Karmann Ghia (love the styling, hate the slowness).

2) A convertible (or possibly a coupe/sedan after reading the thread on convertible ownership) from the late 40s or early to mid-50s that has a real backseat, but that's not too long in overall length (I don't want an 18' boat). Probably looking at an American make like Ford, Dodge, Plymouth, etc.

3) Or, stick with a modern car.

I like my creature comforts like a/c, cruise control, and a cd player. I want a trunk that can at least fit 2 carry-on sized suitcases, and a backseat that can at least fit a dog if not more. If I have a convertible then I want the top to go up quickly (and preferably automatically). With the price of gas at $4/gallon I want to get at least 20-25mpg. And I live in the hot and humid deep south, so rust may be an issue. I'm not a purist, however, and not everything needs to be original. And though I realize that older cars are going to be in the shop more often then modern ones, I don't want to be handing over all of my money to the mechanic all of the time. And I only want to pay about $20-25k.

So, the question is....is a classic car a good option for me?
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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Given your criteria in #s 1 and 2, and your budget, i don't think there's a car that will meet all those requirements. For $25K + convertible with electric top + reliability + AC + reasonable size, you are going to have to try a compact 60s convertible (Buick Special, Dodge Dart, etc).

    Of the foreign cars you mentioned, the Alfa would be the most reliable, and if you bought an 80s model, you can have AC. You don't need an electric top with one of those---it's a one hand operation. And you don't have to spend more than $10K.
  • joncynjoncyn Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this discussion group and not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but here goes. I stumbled across an Olds F85 (63) 2 door hard top with serveral, what I thought any, odd options. this car had power windows ac, and fuel injection on a small V8 engine 283 I think, small block any way, Olds might have had a 330 cubic I think. This car was in excellent unrestored condition. Any one have any idea of its worth? I would like to make this guy an offer but not sure what to offer? Any help would be helpful.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    I don't think the Olds 330 came out until 1964, but I could be mistaken. And the 283 was a Chevy engine. If it's in original condition, a 1963 F-85 should have an aluminum 215 V-8, which was supplied by Buick. It put out 155 in stock form, 185 hp with a turbocharger, and there was a 215 hp version in a limited production hardtop model called the JetFire.

    As for air conditioning, it really was considered a luxury item back in the 40's and 50's, and even early 60's. It was mainly Lincolns, Cadillacs, and Imperials that had it. It was a very pricey option in those days. I think a/c on a GM car in 1956 was a $565 option. A Chevy started as low at $1800 for a stripper 2-door sedan that year, while a Cadillac started at around $4200 for a base hardtop coupe. So needless to say, not too many people were going to buy a new Chevy and then order an option that added 1/4 to 1/3 to the base price!

    Also in those days, the prevailing attitude tended to be that if you bought a convertible, you didn't need air conditioning. As a result, I'd imagine a/c was rarer in the convertibles than it was in the closed cars. My mother bought a 1966 Catalina convertible, brand-new, her senior year in high school. I remember asking her if it had a/c, and she just looked at me like I'd lost my mind. "Why would it have air conditioning?! It was a CONVERTIBLE!!"

    I think by the late 60's, air conditioning was really becoming popular. By that time, the prices of the cars had risen, but the cost of the a/c had actually dropped, to around $300-350. I've had two Dart hardtops, a '68 and a '69, both with a/c. The '68 probably MSRP'ed around $3300, while the '69 was around $3600, so by this time, the a/c was only about 10% of the total price of a compact. Much more reasonable.

    You could probably get a big 60's convertible with a/c, a power top, nicely equipped, for a reasonable price, as long as you didn't go for some high performance model like a Catalina 2+2, Impala SS409, etc. I bought a '67 Catalina convertible for $3775, but that was way back in 1994, so I dunno what it would be worth today. But you said you didn't want to lug around 18 feet of car. I think my Catalina comes in at 17 feet, 11 inches. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes Andre is right, the engine, if stock would be a 215 V-8 with a carburetor-----no 283, no fuel injection, no turbo, etc. There was I believe a 4 barrel option on some models.

    So if it has a Chevy engine with aftermarket fuel injection, then it would have to be priced as a street rod, not a stock '63 F-85.

    Street rods are priced mostly on how well the work is done, and how much HP has been added, and how tasteful/tasteless the modifications are.

    You'd have to give us lots more details, as well as some photos, to get any idea of value.

    If in fact, it is a completely stock '63 F-85, we could give you a pretty accurate value I think.
  • deskmandeskman Member Posts: 485
    a mid 60s mercedes 280 se cabrio would be very very cool :shades:
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    Bad thing is a good 6cyl 280SE cabrio will cost him 40-50K, and a low grille will average 50% more. But you can't get anything as timeless for the money, for sure.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    A vintage (65-66) Mustang Convertible with the C engine would provide your needs.
    The C engine has the 2.8 rear end ratio for economy whereas the A engine has the 3.0 differential for performance. Many are still on the market with Air, Automatic, & Power Steering. They continue to increase in value, but not at a sky rocketing rate.

    Your Bowser will fit easily in the back seat and the trunk is very generous.
    Part availablity is very ample for this motor car.

    Install a Pertronix ignition and it'll go forever. :):)
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,700
    "A vintage (65-66) Mustang Convertible "

    That'll work, but I have to mention it's a tin can when it comes to accidents. Using these as a daily driver does bring with it risks, some common to all cars of this vintage (minimal safety equipement), some common to many convertibles, the Mustangs in particular (very limited body strength, you have to be careful not to bend the body during restoration), and some particular to Mustangs (drop-in gas tank, fuel can enter trunk in an accident). I grew up with a '65 Mustang, none the worse for wear, just make sure you're aware you're not dealing with a modern vehicle.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Agree with your opinion which is applicable to ANY vehicle of that vintage. Your experience with the '65 is valid. I've been driving my '66 for over 41 years and realize what it is and is not. ;)
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the suggestions so far. The Mercedes looked very nice, all but its price tag! As far as the 60s American convertible suggestions (Dart, Mustang, & Special)...just not my style. Considering my wants and budget, I might be better off considering a coupe or a sedan. Though I may run into the a/c issue, the Jaguar saloons of the 50s and 60s have a lot of appeal (MK I & II as well as the S-type).

    Also, is there a better reference resource than the Standard Catalog's for classic cars? (The American from 1946-1975 or the Imported from 1946-2002) I was thinking about going through those to see what models would even be able to meet my requirements in terms of seating, length, etc, but didn't know if there were better guides out there.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    Also, is there a better reference resource than the Standard Catalog's for classic cars? (The American from 1946-1975 or the Imported from 1946-2002) I was thinking about going through those to see what models would even be able to meet my requirements in terms of seating, length, etc, but didn't know if there were better guides out there.

    I can't remember...do those American Standard catalogs list overall length and width of the cars, or just the wheelbase and base weight? As for interior dimensions, the only reference I can think of right offhand is the annual auto issue of Consumer Reports, which has been coming out every April probably since the dawn of time. A big enough library might carry those. For instance, when I went to college at the University of Maryland, their library had them going back to the early 50's.

    I'd say for the most part, any domestic "standard" sized car from the 50's or 60's should be big enough to hold 6 people. Some cars, like Studebakers, tended to be a bit smaller. Once compacts and intermediates came out, they might have still had 6 seatbelts, but that doesn't mean they were a comfy fit. 2-door coupes, both hardtop and fixed pillar, tended to have smaller back seats than 2- and 4-door sedans, and sometimes convertibles lost enough shoulder room that it cut the back seat down to a comfy 2-seater.

    Older cars, from the earlier 50's, tended to sit up higher, more pickup truck like, and would often put a bus-sized steering wheel right in your lap. But then cars like the '57 Mopar lineup, and '57 Buick/Olds/Cadillac, really gave you a lower seating position that was further back from the firewall.

    Anyway, good luck with your search! Keep us posted!
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    The OP here. I think that a convertible probably isn't in the cards for me as I'm not keen on flapping ragtops (which need rather frequent replacement at that) or hardtops that have too many mechanical issues. But I am thinking about a coupe, as I like the overall look of the 2-doors. Here would be the requirements again:

    1) Some kind of a backseat to fit a large dog (or some small kids)

    2) A trunk large enough to fit at least 2 carry-on suitcases

    3) Creature comforts like a/c and cruise control (again, no issues adding these on later)

    4) Decent gas mileage (at least 20-25mpg)

    5) Not always in the shop for repairs

    6) Cost less than $20-25k

    7) Not as big as a boat

    Now that I've eliminated the convertible part, I didn't know if there are other options in the classic car field that would pop up that are not the coupe versions of the convertibles already mentioned (Dart, Mustang, Buick Special, 280E (gorgeous but out of budget)). So any classic contenders, or should I stay with more modern vehicles?

    Also, I've started looking at some more modern cars. I'm not sure if this is the appropriate forum (if not, please tell me where this would go) but some other contenders are:

    Audi TT 2000-2006 (but focusing on 2004-2006 as reliability reports seem to be better for those years)

    Jaguar XK8 or XKR 1997-2001

    Porsche 911 1995-1998 (focusing on '97 and '98 because of better reliability than the earlier two years)

    Toyota Celica GT/GTS 2000-2005

    Acura RSX 2002-2006 (focusing on 2004-2006 for imroved reliability)

    Anyway, thanks in advance for your advice!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, this topic is definitely for "classics" so you probably want to cut and paste your question and put it here:
    HELP ME CHOOSE
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the forum recommendation. I'll check there about the modern cars. But are there any classic cars that would suit my needs, or should I give it up for a lost cause?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well most of your criteria could be met by various mid-size coupes from the 60s--80s except the gas mileage. That's simply not realistic.

    A mustang coupe is pretty bullet-proof, 65-71, or a Chevelle small block.

    You don't ever want old foreign stuff---they really can't take day to day pounding and they can be fussy.

    A turbo Buick GN might be fun, from the 80s.
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    What about some of the early to mid-50s Fords and Chevys? I'm thinking a Bel Air coupe from 52-56' or a Ford Custom or Crestline or something like that from '50-55ish? At 195-198" in overall length they're near the upper limit in terms of the size of a car I'd be willing to buy. I like the styling, and their backseats are usable. But I'm not sure how doable they'd be for modern driving conditions as a daily driver. And what would be their approximate fuel economy?
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    Also, why should the foreign stuff be avoided? I would guess that Toyotas, Nissans, Hondas, etc of the 80s (and earlier?) would certainly be more reliable than the domestics. Some of the more luxurious ones like Porsche and Jaguar I can understand, but the practical imports I'm surprised by your statement.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you said "classics". Nothing Japanese from the 70s/80s is even remotely "classic". They are just old used cars and the larger sedans would be nearly impossible to find parts for.

    Sure a 55-56 Chevy would do fine on modern roads in everyday use. I don't think Fords of that era were anywhere near the quality or reliability.
  • lemkolemko Member Posts: 15,261
    About the only Japanese collector car I can think of from that time is the original Datsun 240Z.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Good fuel economy isn't going to happen with an old car.

    Those cars you mentioned are good for around 12-15 MPG if you are lucky.

    As far as modern driving, they would do just fine providing you respect the car's age. You don't drive 75 MPH and you don't taligate people.

    I would lean toward the Chevy over a Ford of that era.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    If you want an old Japanese sedan, one word: Cressida.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    and that's a marginal classic at best. If anything, their value seems to be dropping.
  • lemmerlemmer Member Posts: 2,689
    The value of Z cars has been on the verge of skyrocketing as long as I can remember. As much as I like those cars, after a couple of decades of speculation I am starting to doubt it is going to happen.
  • garv214garv214 Member Posts: 162
    Well, having owned a 240Z, I can honestly say that it meets all of the criteria except the 2 kids (no back seat). The first year of the 2+2 was in 1974 (260Z) which is probably not the one you'd want to get...

    I'd agree with Shifty, the 20-25mpg is going to really limit your search. I was able to get that mileage once out of my 68 Cutlass, but I was driving at 55 mph with the old 75 series tires on it... 14-16 mpg was much more the norm after we put lower profile/wider tires on it.

    Not sure how the 6 cylinders of the 60s/70s did, but my guess is the gain in fuel economy came at the cost of fun-to-drive and safe merging power....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2011
    Make no mistake, the 240Z is a great car to own---but after all these years, it's still rare for one to break $15K

    Oh a BMW 735i from the late 80s would be a nice car to own---those were good cars---if you can find one that hasn't been neglected too much.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    "...a BMW 735i from the late 80s would be a nice car to own---those were good cars..."

    But wouldn't maintenance and repair costs offset any mileage advantage over an American land yacht by a wide margin?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you have to buy one that was well-cared for. The engine and trans are very sturdy and it's not a very complex car. Weak point might be the driveshaft, which is not rebuildable except by a machine shop.

    The 735i was a *really* good car.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    edited May 2011
    But...

    A guy in my town has for sale, a 1994 BMW 533i.

    Anyone know much about these? I understand they are somewhat rare.

    I haven't seen it in person yet but the picture looks good. 250,000 miles but the guy says it runs like new with the exception of a noisy pilot bushing and a worn L.S. wheel bearing.

    Asking 1200.00.

    I do remember that BMW stands for Breaks More Wallets.

    Anyone?
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    1984? No 533i in 1994, that engine was long gone by then.

    533i is indeed uncommon - if it is cosmetically nice and has no mechanical issues, might be worth it for a better than usual old heap.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, must be a 1984, right?

    Well you could end up buried in this car if you need a full clutch kit and if the wheel bearing has wiped out the hub---you might also need a flywheel re-surface, and with that many miles, there could be other issues.

    I'd be more inclined to suggest that you purchased a really cherry one for $3000 and be done with it. They may be rare but they aren't valuable.

    Weaknesses include cracking cylinder heads and worn driveshafts. If you feel a vibration in the seat of your pants throughout the car as you lift off the clutch, that's a worn driveshaft---and they are not rebuildable if I remember correctly.

    So anyway, this is a car you need to check out more thoroughly, and definitely low-ball it.

    Also price out the parts you may need. Always "think the worst". :D

    Sounds like if it runs well a cracked head isn't a problem.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yes, sorry. I meant to say 1984.

    I don't think the fact it's rare makes it worth anything extra.

    He did mention that he "thinks" it "might" need a universal joint and those have to be sent out to a machine shop on an exchange basis.

    And, I'm thinking that that "pilot bushing" is more likely a bad throwout bearing. I'm smelling a big time money pit here and although I may go take a look, I doubt if I'm going to be a buyer.

    I do "think the worst" because experience has taught me that the worst is usually what the problem is!

    Thanks!
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    When someone "thinks" a car "might" need something, it means they know it broke 3 years ago.

    Sounds more parts car-ish with each new fault.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Exactly.

    I love it when they say, " May need a new clutch at some point" or " The A/C just needs some "freezone" put in.

    I called that BMW guy and told him I wouldn't be coming.

    On cars like that maintenance CAN'T be skimped on. They are very unforgiving and they will punish you.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    If you buy an old German car in beater condition, you need to either be accepting of its beater status, or prepared to shell out piles of money to put it right. Most of them can rack up lots of miles while not being properly maintained. Deferred maintenance on an old upmarket German sedan is similar to deferred maintenance on a house.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    I'm really late to this discussion, but I'll chime in with the experience I had with a '69 Dodge Dart GT hardtop with a 225 slant six. I usually got around 15-18 mpg around town, and as good as 22-23 on the highway. It had air conditioning, and the a/c didn't seem to hurt fuel econony one bit.

    Now, it was hardly a rocket with that slant six, but it was adequate. I also owned an '80 Malibu and an '82 Cutlass Supreme coupe, both with V-6'es, and it was faster than either of them. In college, a friend of mine had an '86 T-bird with the 232 V-6, and it was faster than that, too.

    I heard the slant six became a bit of a guzzler in later years though, as it didn't take well to emissions controls, and as it went into heavier cars, performance really suffered, too.

    I also had a '68 Dart with a 318, and it was more like 12-13 around town, 16-17 on the highway, maybe high-seventeens if you really babied it. Oddly, my much-heavier '67 Catalina convertible, with its 400-4bbl, gets about the same highway mileage, although around town, I'm lucky to break 10 mpg.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A bad pilot bushing is something you'd hear while you were IN gear and driving, and a bad throw-out bearing is something you'd hear with the clutch IN, not out.

    If he's hearing a growling sound with the clutch OUT in neutral or while driving, that's bad transmission front bearing, not a throwout bearing. (is this the "wheel bearing" he's hearing?)

    In any event, if you drive it around the block, you can determine which it is. Naturally the severity of these maladies is as follows

    (from best case scenario to worst case)

    1. bad throw out bearing

    2. bad pilot bushing

    3. bad trans bearings

    re: DRIVESHAFT -- yep, machine shop *may* be able to rebuild the driveshaft, but it had better be dynamically balanced, too, or you'll be sorr-eee.

    Sounds like you might have to replace items from the flywheel to the differential---a driveline rebuild.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,700
    I'd go for a slightly later 535i, I think the 533i was only sold here for just a few years. I'd either look for an '88, or the following series 535i in ''89-'93.
  • vintagejanievintagejanie Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I'm new to this forum.

    I'm going to be buying my first classic car and I really need to educate myself and this seems a very knowledgeable place so I'm hopping I'm in the right place.
    • My two favorite models are the MB SL and the Karmann Ghia

      My budget is max $15K

      The car will be kept outdoors

      I don't know about cars so before I even start looking, I need to find a very good/fair/honest mechanic that I can always go to for maintenance, repairs.

      I drive daily, all day, but not long distances (city driving)

      I'm in Miami

      I do not want to buy a project, I want to buy one that has been restored or is in good condition already

      This will be my main car
    So, with that info above, what do you think of the SL or the Karmann Ghia? What do I need to think about, look out for, be concerned about?

    Any and all input will be most appreciated

    Thanks from Sunny Miami
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,700
    Either car will be a challenge to use as a daily driver because they're both going to be old and requiring frequent maintenance. I'd go with the newest SL you can find that's in good shape, even though maintenance costs will be high, because the VW is really not suited for modern roads, speeds, and safety requirements. A 560SL would be best, but you will use LOTS of gas.

    How about a Miata instead? More fun, more modern, better mpgs, a better car all around in my opinion.

    Your lack of knowledge of cars will be a major issue in trying to keep a 25+ year old car on the road. Fine if it's a hobby car, looming disaster if it's your only car.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    Tough call as the cars you like aren't really similar (and simple "SL" is vague), and the price point is odd for them. 15K should buy a fantastic Ghia, with money left over - it will buy a nice early-mid R129 or any R107 SL with a little left over, or a marginal W113 SL with nothing left over - the latter getting to the age where long distance daily use isn't the best idea. The older SLs and the Ghia can rust pretty easily, so storing them outside in a humid climate will eventually create issues.

    There are lots of decent independent shops out there - but lots of sketchy ones too. Join a car club and get references. For your budget and desires, I think a Ghia, a later 107SL, or a 6cyl 129 SL would probably be best.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Fin is right, they are totally different cars. It's hard for me to keep my prejudices at bay, but I'll try (but keep in mind that this view is not objective).

    I think for simplicity of mechanical maintenance, it's a Karman Ghia hands down; however, this car is a bear to restore cosmetically, so you'd better buy one with the nicest, soundest, cleanest body you can afford. You do NOT want to do any rust repair on a Ghia and you do NOT want to be hunting down, and paying for, rare bits of exterior trim. On the minus side, the KG is slow, and lets' face it, not the safest thing you could be in at 60 mph. I'm not sure it would like "outside" very much either.

    As for the SL, it's got to be a 560SL or just forget it. $15K would only buy you a real RAT of a 230-250-280SL, and while you can buy a very nice 380-450SL for that money, the 560SL is a much better car in all respects. Also keep in mind that repairs on a V8 SL are going to be pretty high, so if you don't have backup in your checking account, a V8 SL will slowly drain your resources...or quickly drain them if you have a major catastrophe mechanically.

    So, given all that you've said, I'd say a 560SL is your best choice IF you are lined up with a good independent Benz repair shop that can help you learn about the car and maintain it. You need teamwork to own a car like this.

    If you are in the boonies, or have no such resources as a good indy shop that you trust, then go with the Ghia if you can find a rust-free, damage-free example, and if you don't mind their primitive uncomfortable nature.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I don't see how a VW isn't suited for modern roads?

    They do just fine providing the driver respects the cars limitations.

    I've driven many thousands of miles at 70 MPH and never felt unsafe or threatened in any way.

    The Mercedes can and probably will be a financial disaster. They use tons of gas and they can be nothing but trouble and I'm talking about EXPENSIVE trouble.

    The Miata suggestion is an excellent one! Great cars that are troublefree as can be.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,700
    edited May 2011
    I'm concerned with the 'daily driver' aspect for a VW, driven by someone with self-professed 0 knowledge. The limits of a Ghia in terms of brakes, acceleration, and crash protection just keep me from recommending it to a complete and inexperienced stranger with little car know-how. You, on the other hand, could probably do well with a '53 Gaz...
    image

    That's the problem with giving advice to complete strangers - I will always error on the side of caution...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, VW brakes are very marginal, the swing axle is squirrelly and the crash protection is well....an empty trunk and a gas tank in front of you. :surprise:

    But you're right of course, if you are careful and respectful then all you have to worry about is the other drivers.

    Of course, there are also issues of comfort. The engines are noisy, sound-deadening is nil, heat and defrost are iffy, seats are primitive.

    I'd consider this a fair weather car at best.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    Another thing, she is in FL - you're not going to find AC in a Ghia, and the system in any older SL is going to be mediocre at best.

    There are far better alternatives out there for a daily driver convertible.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ghia convertible tops are *very* expensive to replace, so that's a consideration right there for a car to be kept outdoors.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    My VW's always stopped quite well and I knew what not to do as far as acceleration went. You have to know the car's limits and drive it accordingly.

    I do agree, a VW (Karmann Ghia) has to be owned by a person who understands this and knows how to take care of it.

    By the grace of God, I never got into an accident or I probably wouldn't be typing these words. Ten gallons of gas in your lap and zero crash protection.

    The thought of any nice old car sitting outside bothers me too.

    Seriously, I think the Miata suggestion was spot on!
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,131
    An SL cloth top wouldn't be cheap either, and removing the hardtop isn't a one man job.

    I am a MB fan but the only SLs I want are ones I can't afford :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    I don't see how a VW isn't suited for modern roads?

    It would be fine for modern roads...it's the modern drivers I'd be concerned about!

    I've driven many thousands of miles at 70 MPH and never felt unsafe or threatened in any way.

    How long ago was that, though? You might feel different if you had to drive one today! The newer cars have dumbed us all down a bit, whether we notice it, or want to admit it or not. Often you don't notice how bad something is until you experience and get used to something newer and better, and then go back and experience the old thing again.

    For instance, I was only 24 when I bought my '67 Catalina convertible. And back in those days, there were times when I had gotten it up over 100 mph, and had no trouble handling it. But nowadays, at the ripe old age of 41, I really don't like taking it much above 70-75. Part of it is that I'm simply more cautious now, know I'm not immortal, and it wouldn't take THAT serious of a wreck for me to die in the thing. But, over the years, I also got used to better and better handling. My '79 Newport, '86 Monte Carlo, '89 Gran Fury copcar (that one probably had the best brakes of any car I've ever owned, and its firm-feel power steering felt more like a modern car than something dating to 1976), 2000 Intrepid, and now my 2000 Park Ave.

    So now, when I get behind the wheel of that Catalina, it feels incredibly vague, floaty, and unstable. Not at all the way I remember it. And since I put the bigger wheels/tires and had some transmission work done on it, it doesn't even chirp the rear tires on the 2-3 shift anymore, like it used to back in the old days. :cry:

    I'd imagine the experience would be similar with any old car.

    Also, I don't have nearly the driving experience that you have, but even in the 25 years I've been driving, I've noticed a change in habits. People tailgate more, are more likely to cut you off, slam on the brakes in front of you, drive too fast in the rain, snow, etc. And then throw on cell phones, smart phones, sexting, etc, and people are not only driving more aggressively today, but more distracted. And there are a lot more big trucks and SUV's out there these days. Way back in 1994, my ~4000 lb Catalina was one of the bigger vehicles on the road. Nowadays, even a lot of midsized cars are pushing the 4000 lb mark.

    Personally, I think I'd be afraid to depend too much on something like an old VW Bug nowadays. I think I'd feel a bit safer in a Karmann-Ghia (justified or not), but I'd still feel vulnerable.

    If I had to depend on an old car day in and day out, I think the smallest/slowest I'd feel safe in would be something like a Dart or Valiant with the larger 225 slant six, or a Chevy II with one of the larger 6-cyl engines. Wouldn't be opposed to something smaller, but I just wouldn't want to have to depend on it as my primary transportation.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Still kind of looking for a fun car myself.

    Went and looked at a 1990 325i convertable this week.

    The owner made a huge deal out of the fact it had the optional hardtop and couldn't believe it when I told him I had zero use for it. He didn't mention that the soft top needed to be replaced.

    German Made - 1800.00
    USA made - 1580.00
    OEM - 3800.00

    Beautiful car that had a 100% perfect body and paint. Interior was 90% very nice!

    Check Engine light on - "Probably just needs to be reset" - (owner's comments")

    SRS light on - " Probably just a seat belt latch"

    A/C inop - " Probably just needs a recharge"

    Speedo custler replaced with a used one - Makes the car a TMU (true miles unknown) car.

    Asking price - 4500.00

    Way overpriced especially with the problems - PASS
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