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Stopped going to the local "stealership" about 4 years ago, and have a great mechanic here in Baltimore who only works on Japanese cars.....
He has replaced O2 sensors on the car, yet the engine light came back on again. He thinks it is the gasket assembly around the gas cap. another expensive repair just to make the engine light go out.....
... but if the engine light is on, at least in my neck of the woods, you cannot pass your emissions test! so this is a real pain. more $$$
another annoyance, I'm curious to know if anyone else had this happen, the "D" (drive) light on the dashboard went out. just the D. the P, R, and others still illuminate. to fix this one little stupid light, requires that the entire dash be taken apart!!! how stupid is this? never had this sort of thing happen in any other car in the last 30 years...
I have concluded that there are only 2 options: keep the car til it dies (which could be in a month or in 10 years) or trade in at some dealer--- or carmax. guess they will fix the issues and resell. cannot possibly sell on the open market, as these stupid problems will cause the car to flunk the inspection. so I guess we just keep on driving it. it's been a great vehicle, and other than these stupid problems it has been a totally reliable car. don't think I will get another RX.. all the bells and whistles just cost you a LOT of bread.
one other annoyance, I'd like to know if anyone else has had: the door locks. I have replaced all of them in less than 10 years, and the driver's door TWICE! that is ridiculous... and at $500 a piece, that is crazy. I thought my house was a money pit, but this car is truly a money dump. I hope it does not hear me making snide remarks about it, as it sits peacefully in the garage while it snows outside.....
what is everyone buying these days? I need a new car!
The only problem that I've had with the CEL was the MAFS and since I cleaned it correctly, everything's been great. Yours might be some other easy fix; I'd try a different dealer (Toyota?) that you have, or are looking to build a relationship with.
2. The "D" indicator in the combination meter is not essential because it's in addition to the actual indicator, and I can't see how your inspection would fail because of that. The gearshift indicator will clearly show "D" like any car that does not have a redundant display (remember all your other cars).
This is a common light bulb to need replacement, and most cars need indicator bulbs replaced by the time they are 12 years old. "Search" the forum and you will find detailed explanation of "how to" if you want to DIY. If not, it's probably not worth paying a mechanic to replace. No the whole dash doesn't need to come out, just the combo meter (not a fun job). I've been toying with replacing mine, but it just doesn't bother me anyway.
I understand your frustration with CEL, but in my experience it's usually a lot easier to fix on the RX than most other cars this age. That's been my experience. I have a Ranger that has a perpetual CEL and it's been a constant series of repairs but they have not solved the problem, so I understand. And that car has always had difficult to replace meter bulbs going bad since it was new. Replaced them a few times, not fun, and there are still more burned out again. I hope you find an end to your frustration. I'd get rid of the car if you just don't like it enough to repair.
P.S. I've had the drivers door lock replaced under warrantee, and had to do it again myself out of warrantee. The part was expensive and not fun. The passenger rear lock has gotten weak when the car sat for a long time between uses and sometimes the battery is weak. The door lock actuators are a nuisance because they are a pain to replace and the part is packaged with the whole lock assembly. I'm going to take another's advice and stop by an alarm shop and have them install a generic lock actuator bypassing the one built into the lock. It should be a whole lot less expensive that way. You might find that suggestion on a search of this forum (try "door lock", etc.), ClubLexus, etc. Even if you don't do the work yourself, it helps to read alternative solutions other owners have come up with.
Cleared the codes twice, once via disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, the second time with the OBDII reader, came back both times.
I'm guessing the system is detecting an error comparing the two a/f ratio sensor readings, could that be what's going on? There is lots of info from other owners on Club Lexus forums (some seem to be pretty savvy). There are really helpful photos posted by members.
I guess I'll have to order both a/f sensors; that's probably the best route. After 13 years I guess the car's earned a new set. The sensor in back (bank 1 is it?) looks like it will be a knucle-buster to unplug, and then a trip to the chiropractor afterward.
The OEM replacement sensor sold under the Denso part number appears to be the least expensive route to get OEM. $110 each through Amazon (unless the price changes while I'm online again).
Let us know what you figure out. I'm sure others have had this come up, too.
The question is: could it be the bank 1 (firewall) sensor's heater circuit is bad, and that's the only problem. Or, do I need to order two new sensors (the part# is the same for each). Perhaps it shows the other sensor error based on comparing the two readings? Any ideas?
I have a RX300 2002 that I purchased in July of last year so far only minor problems the car had 80,000 mi at purchase but what's brothering me is I hear a slight hum when I am idleing at stop light I've had this checked by a certified mechanic who only works on Lexus he hears it too he put it on a machine, checked everything to no avail I had a small hole in my flex pipe he changed that other than that the car runs like a dream for a 9yr old car. It was a one owner car no accidents garage kept paint looks like new. Does anyone else have this problem? It's not loud just annoying . In winter it's a little louder in summer not so.
to save time we ran a hose from fuel outlet to direct to fuel tank cap.
Diagnostics indicated both l/r rear speed sensors out plus rear vehicle heigth sensor out.
Suspected, inspected, for rear cable broken, kicked up road debris...?
Nothing there.
Opened passenger side kick panel and discovered.....WATER.
Connector set, IM1,IM2, SOAKED.
Water source, dripping, seems to be quite high up, seemingly just to the right of the CD player "box". Disassembled inlet cowling but could not replicate problem even with water pouring down the windshield and into the air inlet ducts for A/C intake airflow.
Disconnected, cleaned and dried ,(hair dryer,) both IM1,2 connectors and fault indicators extinguished.
Anyone experience this...? Ideas for fix?
I currently just had lights turn on again without vehicle shaking.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)