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Check out some of the dealer websites in your specific area because there may be other lease specials not advertised on a national level!
They're also offering 0.9% APR financing for up to 60 months on the 2010 Corolla LE, but the S model isn't included in that offer. The payment would be $17.05 for every $1000 financed on a 60-month loan term. So if you financed $15k, the payment would be about $255.75 per month....less than $30 more than the lease payments and you'd own it and not have to worry about mileage restrictions, etc.
Anyone have any insight? Thoughts?
My car is magnetic gray with black (some blue fabric accents) interior. It's by far the best car i've driven in its class.
What do you guys think of that deal?
Good luck & enjoy the ride...I personally like the "S" model myself...looks a bit nicer than the plain Corolla's...a little more sporty. Congrats.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
2. I can afford to pay the car in cash, do I still have to finance it through TFS to get the Toyota College Graduate?
3. If could get the college rebate without financing it, do I still need collision insurance?
If you know from personal experience please let me know ASAP since I want to buy a Corolla LE within the next 2-3 days. The dealers are telling me that most probably I could combine them but the factory cash back says "Offers cannot be combined" but they are telling me that it cannot be combined with 0% financing. One guy here posted said that he could not stack them for a Toyota Camry.
EDIT: After some searching I was able to find the following bulletin:
http://www.rodlandtoyota.com/images/pdfs/College%20Grad%20Rebate%20Program%20201- - - 0.pdf
that says: "Effective 01/05/10, Dealer Participation is no longer allowed under the College Graduate Rebate Program". Should I take this as no to my first question? Then I guess the dealers are lying to me to make me buy the car... and find out that I am not eligible for both rebates only after I am about to sign.
Regarding the college incentive on their website: "Rebate available on contracts executed between January 5, 2010 and January 3, 2011". It's posted on their website. Whatever pdf you printed seems outdated.
I was able to get all incentives but the 0% due to the APR not being able to be combined with my $1000 factory rebate. It was cheaper to get the 1k instead of 0% because of my down payment.
The pdf doesn't seem outdated to me since it is for January 05, 2010 through January 03, 2011. Yes I know that the rebate is posted on the toyotafinancial website but doesn't say anything whether it could be combined or not with any factory cash back... On the pdf I found it's highlighted that it cannot be combined with any dealer participation and I guess the factory cash back belongs to that no?
Do you I know the answers to my 2nd and 3rd questions?
Thanks again!
1. Toyota College Graduate $1,000 Rebate Program can be combined with the $750 Factory Cash Back!
2. To get the Toyota College Graduate $1,000 Rebate financing is required.
I just bought today a Toyota 2010 Corolla LE in Southern California (MSRP $18,060) for $15,500 before sales taxes and dmv fees and before the combined $1750 rebates. OTD was ($15,500 + $55) * 1.0875 + $303.75 -$1750 = $15,469.81. I paid $10,469.81 downpayment and I financed 5,000 with 3.75% (that I will pay it off completely anyway after a couple of months).
The $1000 recent college graduate discount came with a BIG issue though, interest rates of 11-17% !!! SET gives you $1000 and them whams you with outrageous interest rates, even though I'm on the loan with my son and we both have very high credit scores. The loan prepayment fee is $100 so we'll refinance in a few days at around 4% and eat the $100 prepayment fee. Gotta love SE Toyota.
I don't exactly feel that I got a bad deal, since the TMV price for this car was about $800 more at that point. However, it seems that all the Columbus area Toyota dealers have about 150+ new Corollas sitting in the lots (although just a handful are basic trim) so I am just feeling that if I waited may be I could have gotten a LE or better for this price. Oh well, I went for the best I could get at that point.
What do you guys think, was it a fair price?
36 months lease
45K miles
MSRP $18,060
Monthly payments $174
Front end payment of $845: first month's lease payment, taxes, tags, and processing
Acquisition fee of $650, was built into the lease payment
A clarification to the above statement: the $845 front end payment was made up of the first month's lease payment, taxes, tags and processing.
It was NOT a reduction of the capitalized cost.
Good job!
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I don't mean to interrupt the previous poster, but I too am in a similar predicament. I would very much appreciate feedback/critique for my soon-to-purchase, end-of-the-year 2010 Toyota Corolla LE.
A little background info:
I'm a first-time new car buyer, who waited purposely towards the end of the year. I will be paying in cash. Essentially after a week of intensive research (edmunds, true car, cars direct, etc) I have an idea on a competitive, reasonable offer price.
However I don't trust my judgment.
Blame it on inexperience or the fact that I'm too close to the situation, I worry I'm not seeing things objectively.
Here are the figures I got from a potential auto dealer (among several others):
MSRP: $18,050
Offer: $16, 244
OTD: $18,103
There is a $1,000 rebate so the OTD cost would be down to $17,103.00 (correct me if I'm off). This deal will expire on Wednesday Dec 29, 2010.
Question:
If you were buying this car, how would YOU counter-offer the socal California dealer, keeping the annual timing in mind, and your eagerness to demonstrate your high pricing I.Q./savvy. Up to this point, I've been vacillating between $15,600 - $15,900 range. Too high/low still?
note: Long story short, I believe the dealer made a concerted effort to dust himself off, get back on his feet and to propose this deal - which I am grateful for. I don't want to come off as a shill, as I understand that he is running a business. A diplomatic counter-offer price is what I'm looking for. Any suggestions/feedback would be greatly appreciated ... before the deal expires.
Stop fretting about it and enjoy your new car!
Just walk into the dealership an hour before they close on a weekday, say that you are ready to sign right then if and only if they can give you $265/month (or $15,900). Stick to it. Let them do the talking to prove how much money they are losing: don't worry, it's all bs, so you needn't feel bad. And by the way, have dinner before you go in, because you'll be there for 3-4 hours, as the salesman passes you to saler manager, and he passes you to GM, and he passes you the Finance guy etc. And for heaven's sake don't buy any "extras" (warranty / service / GAP) from the guy doing your paperworks at the end, you'll be burnt if you do.
BTW, the offer won't expire. The dealer will be even more desperate the closer to the new year he gets. He needs to make room for the 2011 models! Just stick to your offer. If they say they just can't meet you price, look sorry and start leaving. If they seem not to try to stop you, offer $270/month ($16,200). But not any higher. There are too many Corollas in the market for one dealer to be so obstinate.
Good luck!
If you are wanting the 0% financing then you would want to pay an additional $750 which is I believe the current cash rebate for some one not wanting the financing from Toyota.
I got the Corolla for closer to $14,400 plus taxes, tags and processing but that was because the dealer had a lot of inventory and probably wanted to move some cars out in a hurry.
I am in Northern Virginia but having lived in Southern CA, I know that the market there is a lot more competitive than it is here.
I personally cite prices before taxes, tags and processing because these vary by state - especially the sales tax factor. I have purchased six cars in the last ten years for our use as well as negotiating deals for my children.
BTW, I don't negotiate in person or by phone but rely entirely on email. It is much more efficient and though dealers don't like it they are willing to do so. I finalize the terms and then we meet and complete the transaction. I have negotiated prices for six cars over the past ten years for myself or my children and it has worked out every time. The cars have ranged from Lexus to BMW to Acura and Toyota.
Hope this is helpful to you.
http://img821.imageshack.us/i/purchaseorder.jpg/
2010 Corolla S
- 5 speed manual
- option package 3 (alloy wheels etc)
- car mats
$14298 (includes all fees EXCEPT government taxes/fees).
Sent emails to all dealers in a 75 mile radius for exact car I wanted.
Many were very high and just dreaming.
Zag as well. Lowest from zag -- dealer wouldn't return messages or emails --- clearly bogus.
In the end the first salesman who called me, actually had the lowest price and did a dealer trade with another dealer to get the car for me. Outstanding customer service.
Easy transaction, had to drive 45 miles to pick up car, no big deal.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for your post.
I'm also in the market for the a Corolla S and I am in the bay area.
Do you mind sharing with me the name of the dealer you bought your Corolla S from?
Many Thanks!
-r32
We started our purchase through Zag with a base model Corolla - Zag lets you configure a car with an options you want, even ones that aren't available (just to drive traffic to the dealer, I'm sure) We tried a couple different cars and a few different configurations and found it cheaper just across the border in SC than anywhere else nearby. The dealer couldn't give us the one we originally wanted, so they offered us the same discount off an S model (which ended up being cheaper than the Zag discount of the S)
I went to a dealer closer to our house with my Zag printout, and they poo-poohed the Zag deal saying they doubted it was legit....so I went back to the original dealer, placed a deposit and a few days later picked up the car. 2500 miles on it so far, she's still doing well.
Can you pls tell me where did you buy your car? I am in Milpitas, CA.
thanks
Kannan
Can you pls let me know from which dealer you bought your car. I am also looking for the same.
thanks
Kannan
Thanks in advance.
thanks
Kanann
I originally wanted a LE Auto that they quoted me $14,081 invoice but it was gone the next day. Anyway, they had several S left and I took the silver one. They were saying the 2010 stock were going fast but they might still have a few left.
Installed Options: FE: 50 State Emissions / EM: Color Outside Rear View Mirror with Heater / CK: All Weather Guard Package: (Heavy Duty Heater with Rear Seat Heater Duct, Anti-Chip Tape, Color-Keyed Heated Outside Mirrors) / LE: LE Package: (Power Windows with Driver-Side Auto Down and Shift Activated Power Door Locks) / QA: LE EVP #1 Includes (Cruise Control and Remote Keyless Entry w/ Key Transmitter) / B3: Bluetooth Handsfree / CF: Carpet Floor Mats and Trunk Mats / DK: Preferred Owner's Portfolio / EF: Rear Bumper Protector
They just succumb to my wife's haggling and we agreed to the lowest price possible. They could also have been trying to clear their 2010 stock. Anyway, this dealership was easy and reputable enough that I would not hesitate to purchase a car from them again.
Mine is a base model: so no power window, key-less entry or power locks. But it has the all weather package (snow tires, more powerful heater, rear heating duct, anti-chip tape) and carpeted floor mats (5 pcs).
I got it from Tansky Sawmill Toyota. It was the last 2010 base model they had. Last time I checked, Germain had two of these in stock. They all probably have a few 2011 base models but that'd be more expensive now.
Hope this helps still.
I am in the market for a 2010/2011 corolla LE in texas? If someone can share the price, dealer, options in the car in texas, i will appreciate it a lot. I live in austin.
Atfer my trade and such the car was $17,500 out the door. It looks like they tried to show it selling at invoice (which I thought was infalted by $300 (advertizing---who knows), anyway I think the had invoice at $16.8K or so -
I then got them to include the body side molding in that price and paid an additional $400 for a spoiler. I think I could have negoatiated another $500 off but really did not have the stomach for it. I got it for the price I wanted with my trade.
I'll add a 7/75K Toyota platinum zero deductible warranty from a dealer I found in Kansas for $529. For 18K out the door it seamed reasonable.
It is a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE Auto with the following options:
AM/FM/ In-Dash 6 CD Changer with MP3/WMA Playback Capability, Satellite Capable (Requires Receiver & Subscription) with Six Speakers ..................................... 240.00
All Weather Guard Package ............................................................. 150.00
LE EVP #1: Includes Cruise Control and Remote Keyless Entry w/ Key Transmitter ................................................................................- ............................ 100
Power Tilt & Slide Moonroof with Sunshade .......................................... 890.00
The OTD price is $17,431.93.
Do you guys think its reasonable ?
Thank you
Do you mind sharing how much did you pay for your car ?
$17,431 is the OTD including the $1000 rebates. Any suggestions on the counter offer ?