Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
We have a 2007 DGC that just passed the 94,000 mile mark. Front pads (only, no rotors) were replaced at 44,000 miles and are still going strong. Rear pads were just replaced last weekend. I replaced the serpentine belt, pulley, etc at the 75,000 mile mark, just to be proactive. Had a problem with the passenger side power window not wanting to go down, but was able to fix that myself.
Outside of some light bulbs, oil and filter changes, etc, that's been the extent of the repairs done.
Thinking about the issue with the 08 caravan and the 09 it it almost seems like Chrysler corrected the front brake issue and it created an issue with the rear brakes. Hmmmmmm
just like many others. I do hope the Fiat ownership will sort out these consistent problems in pre-production tests so I can once again believe in the product. One question that hasn't come up in these discussions is all the aftermarket pad/vented rotor combinations that have appeared. If anyone has used these "new and improved" aftermarket parts I'd like to know. Since this van was covered for "life" I might just put a few bucks into upgrading it and keep it longer than I normally do. It currently has 88,000 miles on it and has always run as good as expected although the mileage has never delivered the 25mpg.
Thanks for listening.
Thanks for the info. My 2008 van only has 37,000 and I wondered if I should get rid of it for a fiat. What do you think? And I was just wondering why you go to vegas so much. I love vegas...
Thanks,
Pam
Is anyone having brake problems with the 2009 models?
The founding principles of unions were great, but the harsh reality is that it created a morale within the workforce that is detrimental to the growth and properity of the company. I could go on forever on this subject!
UAW Thread
Just recently I was told that the design has changed, but I am not sure how this is going to effect my van. Otherwise I am happy with it, and "stove and go" is great.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Front
Rotors
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-USR7442
Pads
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-DP61798
Rear
Rotors
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-USR7443
Pads
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-DP61840
here is forum that has people discussing brake pads
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=945167
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here's the link for them if anybody wants to check them out -
http://www.atlautosports.com/
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.nhtsa.gov/
FILE a REPORT PEOPLE..MAKE A DIFFERENCE IT'S GOING TO TAKE A CHILD DYING FOR THEM TO TAKE ACTION
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Pamela
It is almost a relief to find this website today and know that there is something drastically wrong with the 2008 vans. Now the fight with Chrysler begins!!!
Going in to trade it in tomorrow - not wasting another dime!!!
Where do I begin to file a complaint with Chrysler in Canada?
Thoughts?
But what upgraded rotors are you referring to?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Finally I find some more chrysler owners with the same problem as mine. I've been looking around for some time on the internet and have been more surprised not to find anything, than I was today when I found all the info here.
I'm in sweden, my car is out of warranty as it is a 2008 and there are no class act law suits or anything alike going on here. :mad: So, I am mostly interested in how to actually solve the issue, rather than how to deal with chrysler or dealers. I also do all of my service etc my self.
I've noticed that the breaks are often actually applied during normal driving, they do not release properly. This goes for all four wheels. It causes excessive wear and excessive heat AND excessive fuel consumption. The heat destroys the disks/rotors and can also, as in my case destroy the bearings. I have checked multiple times, the pads are not stuck and the calipers are not stuck. The problem has to be in the hydraulic system one way or another, or on the other side of the hydraulic system. I have also noted, which is a bit odd, if pressure is applied to the brake pedal continuously, it will slowly go all the way down to the bottom.
So, does anyone know or have any idea of the root cause for the problems, or how to solve them once and for all? :confuse:
Thanks
Thomas
Gothenburg
Sweden
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Picture pushing a cup upside-down into a bowl of water. As long as the cup is solid, the air pressure prevents the water from moving up inside the cup. And when you pull that cup out, it comes out quickly and easily thanks to the air pressure from within.
Now put a small hole in the bottom of that cup. When you push it into the water, it pushes the water down at first, but the air slowly pushes out the hole and the water rises. Now go to pull that cup out. Rather than releasing quickly and easily, it tries to pull the water out with it while that small hole struggles to allow enough air in to release the vacuum hold on the water.
This really is a wild guess on my part. Just attempting to apply logic to the problem. I could be way off.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake1.htm
If there is a loss of pressure, as in the case of an internal leakage, it is in practice almost the same thing as if the piston went back to the original position, and the brakes release.
I don't know exactly how the chrysler team designed the brakes in this car (well we do know they did it in an exceptionally bad way ) and playing with the thought, one could see a scenario where a leak would cause the effect, but it would involve a one way valve controlled by the piston position, opening the valve for return when the piston returns to the original position. And in addition, that the piston does not return to the original position as a result of the leak which in that case only leaks oil from the primary (pressurized) side to the secondary side, and not back again, and a rather weak spring. In that case, the piston could get stuck at the activated end and the oil activating the caliper and break pads wouldn't return. Seems a bit far fetched, but hey, who knows. Would be interesting to see exactly how the chrysler break system is designed.
So what do you mean by slow to release? You lift off the pedal and... the car doesn't roll? You could have one bad caliper causing all of this.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is not just one caliper, as all four wheels gets hot after just a short drive not using the brakes. Hence, the brakes on all four wheels are activated during driving.
So you are saying they never fully release? I can't imagine that to be the case as they would probably catch fire.
I'll have to feel our wheels after the next time I drive the van.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So, the brake pads should probably not be fully released from the rotor. One way manufacturers do this is by the design of the o-ring seal that's between the brake piston and the caliper. This is designed to slightly retract the piston, or just release the pressure it's applying to the rotor, but still alow the pad to drag (slightly) on the rotor.
I was wondering if you had an update on these parts? Have you rotated the tires and taken a look at the brakes. I just went through some crappy Bendix and wagner pads in 11k miles and they were supposed to be ceramic. I can deal with changing them every 30k miles but right now that seems like a pipe dream.
I have an 09 Grand Caravan.
You are getting ripped off bad.
Fluid should be flushed every 2-3 years not because it's "dirty" but actually due to copper content and moisture. Sealed system? Not fully. The reservoir cap is vented and brake fluid LOVES to absorb moisture.
The copper content comes from the ABS system and general corrosion of the brake system due to a breakdown in the fluid due to heat which in turn reduces protection against corrosion/oxidation. The copper content is the main concern these days, not moisture, and copper test strips should be used every 6-12 months to determine when the brake fluid should be flushed.
I pity anyone's vehicles that are abused by not following proper maintenance procedures.
Tell me, what's more important, the safety of you, your family, and those that share the road with you or saving, say, $120 because you don't feel like properly maintaining brake fluid is necessary?
How often do you change your oil? Why? Some people, including myself, use oil analysis to determine when the oil needs to be changed instead of going by the manufacturer intervals. Other people go by mileage, others by time. Regardless of the method, I think we can all agree that the oil in your car needs to be properly maintained, right? Or do you wait until there's a problem with your engine before you change the oil?
Likewise, coolant needs to be tested or replaced at specific intervals, depending on the vehicle. My truck has coolant that's "good" for 5yr/100k miles, but after a few years it's a good idea to have the pH levels, etc checked to make sure everything is still OK. Do you have your coolant flushed when it's reached the end of its life or do you wait for it to cause so much scale in your radiator that the vehicle overheats due to the flow restriction? Maybe wait for it to eat your water pump so you can spend money on coolant AND a new water pump?
The list goes on and on. Brake fluid is easily one of the most neglected fluids in cars and we kinda need brakes in order to...you know...stop...and be safe. You'd think people might take this critical fluid a little more seriously. Don't wait for there to be a problem, have your brake fluid checked for copper and moisture content and have it flushed before it has a chance to damage your brake system or result in an accident.