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GMC Yukon Denali/XL Autoride Suspension

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Comments

  • slandessslandess Member Posts: 1
    ukondoit wrote:


    Regarding the Arnott-designed rear air shocks - true.

    The Arnott shock has no auto-dampening feature. The "sensor" is a resistor that you wire into the dampening circuit.

    If you buy the [recently available] Arnott remanufactured GM air shocks, there is no need to use the sensors and these shocks also have lifetime warranty.

    I am now looking to replace the GM front shocks with standard shocks and I now need to find out what I need to bypass the dampening system on the front.
  • mieschamiescha Member Posts: 4
    I just realized, the bracket is just there to hold the wire harness connector in place. Mine was broken off.

    Still, in the end I got lucky and just found a new, still-in-the-box, OEM compressor (with the air dryer and factory harness) AND with the mounting bracket that connects to the frame rail (so I don't have to drill out the broken torx screws on mine) AND with the rubber blanket/flap to protect from road grim, AND with the rubber air line/exhaust hose. It was on ebay for $305 buy-it-now . . . so I did.

    I'll soak the the three frame bolts with PB Blaster to make getting them off easier (but the new unit comes with the three frame bolts and nuts so if needed I can just cut off the old ones). With any luck (and a air impact), I'll have it in place in 15-minutes including jack time!

    Now I'll just wait for the shocks to go and then order the reman OEM units from Arnott.

    Thanks for all the help.
  • brucezutlerbrucezutler Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the best repair/replacement for this system? The compressor has gotten very noisy and I believe the shocks must be leaking a little since the compressor is running more frequently (not constantly, but more than just when first starting).
    Thank you.
  • org57org57 Member Posts: 9
    check Arnott Inc. They have the compressor for $179 and the shocks. I purchased the rear shocks, installed them my self in about 45 min. Very simple. Hope this helps.
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    edited August 2010
    Every time i start the vehicle the compressor runs for about 15 seconds and while driving the vehicle it rocks in the back alot I can push down on the rear and the truck will rocks a few times like the shocks are not holding. The trucks sits at the normal height never dropped in the rear i was just wondering if its the shocks or the compressor not working correctly. If anyone have has this problem please give me some feed back on the solution...
  • zacrubenzacruben Member Posts: 1
    Push on the "bag" on the shock to see if it is holding air. I have a 2001 and just replaced the compressor and rear shocks with products from Arnott Inc. The compressor was seized and the shocks leaked air. With the new shocks the the compressor hardly runs. And a BIG thanks to mag44 for helping alot of us with his detailed break down of the system.
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    edited August 2010
    Thanks so much i just did & they have no air in them so that tells me its a leak somewhere.. I just started the vehicle and they aired up good but i can hear a leak from the driver side rear shock as i push down on the back of the vehicle. Sprayed soap water on them now i found the leak. Is it's best to change the compressor also? it comes on and works fine..
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Roddarius...Your welcome!!
  • denali03denali03 Member Posts: 2
    Very good info on this post. I have 03 Denali with 145,000 miles. Compressor was not working and shocks had holes in the rubber bladder. I replaced compressor and rear shocks with Arnott. Compressor still did not turn on so I took back off and bench tested. It came on when bench tested. Following some of the tips from this post I went to test fuses. Question- what is the difference between 02 and 03 Denali as most info was given for 02? Anyway- I was missing the stud 1 40 amp fuse so I replaced it. Compressor did not come on but check ride control message did come on. I am stumped. Dealer wants $120 to diagnose. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    edited August 2010
    The first thing I would check are the other two fuses that are used for the auto ride, the RTD 30 amp and the IGN3 which is a 10 amp fuse, if those check out and still does not work test the automatic level control relay (grey), this is located (02) outside the main fuse box usually secured to the outside of the box facing the engine. Pull the relay off carefully and bench test this. If that good then I would check the level sensors themselves located by each tire, if you disconnect them and then rotate them you should be able to hear a slight beep in the vicinity of the compressor. I

    Bench testing the relay, apply 12V to terminal 30, run a wire from 87 to ground. Then jumper 85 & 86, you should hear it switch. If not it's bad.

    Good Luck

    IMPORTANT: Just in case, one more thing to check out and if the fuses are good and the relay is good. Check the continuity on each of the new butt connections for the arnott sensors that you put in place. Then ohm out each sensor, you should get about 25 ohms, if you do not and get either an open ciircuit or a reading that fluctuate then it could be one of the new senors is bad. It happens and of course it happened to me. Arnott sent out a new one immediately.
  • denali03denali03 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Mag44. Great info! It was a fuse issue. I am up and running now and heard the sweet sound of my compressor kicking in. What a great forum. Thanks again.
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    I am wondering which set of shocks to purchase from Arnott for my 04 Yukon Denali the rear bags are gone everyone has choose Arnott they have 2 different shocks to choose from so please give me some help here tell me which set did you choose for the rear... Also Advance Auto Parts have the Arnott/Blistein Asir Shocks for $332 with life time warrany as well..

    1.ARNOTT/ BILSTEIN REAR AIR SHOCKS

    or

    2.REMANUACTURED PAIR OF REAR OEM REAR AIR SHOCKS
  • org57org57 Member Posts: 9
    I purchased the Original replacement shock from Arnott and installed them my self in about 45 min. I sent the old shocks back for the return of the core charge and have never had any problem. I did not get the Blistein style. I spoke with them on the phone and was sold the exact replacement style. They had all the remaining stock from GM and was going to start re-building the old ones. I would talk to them personally and ask the difference between the two. You can not go wrong with either set. The folks at Arnott are very honest. Hope this helps, Org57.
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Org57 I was leaning more to the original ones but didn't know the difference between the both will purchase them now also you know Arnott has a site on ebay where the prices are a bit cheaper than there original site..
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 Denali I just replaced the rear air shock as well with Arnott Oem shocks and having the same problem. But i did unhook the air line on my shocks and they bleed down once i re hooked it and turned the vehicle on the compressor did come on a raise the vehicle. If you find the answer to your question please let me know.
  • roddariusroddarius Member Posts: 7
    I just replaced my rear air shocks with Arnott OEM Shocks & noticed that the vehicle sits higher than it did with the original shocks do any one have a solution for this problem.
  • steeb78steeb78 Member Posts: 2
    I have installed the new pump from Arnott. I'm getting power to all the fuses and the relay, that are mentioned in earlier posts. I'm also getting power to the white & blue wires, but no power to the red wire? It won't run whatsoever. :sick: I haven't seen any posts about this particular problem. Any help would be greatly apppreciated.
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    The Red Wire starts at Stud #1 Fuse 40 Amp then runs through the Automatic Level Control Relay and then on to the compressor. When you state that your getting power to the relay, I take it that you checked pin 30 and got 12 V which comes from the battery. If your getting 12 V at pin 87 then the relay is working. I apologize in advance for this if you have already done this but did you bench test the relay. If you are getting 12V at pin 87 then for a test I would a jumper wire from the relay to the red wire on the compressor side of the ciruit and see if the compressor kicks on. It's possible you have a break or bad connection in the connector.

    Bench testing the relay, apply 12V to terminal 30, run a wire from 87 to ground. Then jumper 85 & 86, you should hear it switch. If not it's bad.

    If it does click and works then make sure all your wheel sensors are working because the last thing it could be and they do not fail often is the actual ESC module. I highly doubt this is it.

    Give me an update on the relay. Good Luck.
  • steeb78steeb78 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you! This is by far the most information that anyway has given me. The relay is the same as others in the fuse box so I used one of them & it still did not come on. I took the relay apart & manually made the relay work and I got power to the red wire but it still did not come on. We hotwired the pump motor & it ran. Obviously we are not getting ground from the suspension control module when I override the relay to try to turn the motor on & it doesn't come on. Do you know what makes the relay connect to send power to the motor? Is it the suspension control module?
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    While it may be but I would do another test before I shelled out $1000 for that ESC module. So the two other things that will keep the relay from supply power to the red wire are the Exhaust selonoid or the pressure switch located on the compressor. I know you purchased a new pump from Arnott but I'm sure as you know there is always a chance that there is a bad component on the new pump. Probably not but I would check.

    I think you said that you have power to the Blue & White, I am guessing that you checked on the car side of the connector not the compressor side. If that's the case then I would check the continuity of the connector itself from each side while connected together. If that's good for all the wires I would leave it connected and nick the blue & white wires on the car side of the connector and jumper them together with a piece of wire. If the compressor starts it the exhaust solenoid. If it still does not start I would check the resistance of the pressure switch but this is a little harder to do since you have to check it while the pump is running. It's a normally open switch but then when the pump is at the correct pressure it should close.

    The other thing I mentioned before were the wheel sensors, are those working?
  • bstuckeybstuckey Member Posts: 7
    Im working on a 04 Denali.I looked at a post that said check stud 3 fuse and I cant find this fuse. I replaced rear shocks that were blown,compressor wont come on I bench tested relay ,compressor checked ign3 fuse the ride control fuse and all was ok .when i started working on it there was a message saying service ride control now its gone but still no air????
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    At least on 2002 and 2003 it's the Stud # 1 Fuse 40 Amp, located in the main fuse box in the engine compartment. Besides the IGN 3 fuse there is a RTD Fuse 30 A to check.
  • bstuckeybstuckey Member Posts: 7
    I have checked all the 3 you said and they are good,I bench tested the compressor and its good I jumped the blue and white wires last nightand, still no compressor
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Are you getting 12V on the red wire at the compressor, on the compressor side of the connection? If not then did you make sure all the wheel sensors are working?
  • bstuckeybstuckey Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your help I will check the red wire and wheel sensors tonight,IF the shocks are blown out will the compressor keep running trying to fill them or or does it have a safty shut down of some sort? Thanks again
  • bstuckeybstuckey Member Posts: 7
    I do have power to the red wire before it goes in compressor.
  • jkeightleyjkeightley Member Posts: 4
    Stupid question here... should I have a running compressor out of the vehicle on the bench with just 12v to red and ground? If I have 12v to red and ground, and no running compressor, could it still be the coil (blue and white wires measure open)?
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    The compressor should run by itself if it's on a bench with 12V and a ground. The exhaust solenoid only comes into play when it's connected because it controls the coil in the ALC relay.
  • jkeightleyjkeightley Member Posts: 4
    So my compressor is dead? Im gonna double check, but I am applying 12v directly to the red wire, and grounding the ground wire with a not running result.
    Seems odd that the solenoid would open up and the compressor would be dead, doesnt it?
  • bn2cynicalbn2cynical Member Posts: 4
    Problem with Autoride as it enhances everything driven over to the extent of being physically exhausted when taken on rough highways/roads. Come to a stop and vehicle rocks on tire pressure with no forward weight transfer/front suspension compression. Going over speedbumps it produces delayed front/rear suspension compression (feel a 2nd bump as suspension finally gives). Pulled 30 amp Autoride fuse and conditions go away. Standard 20" factory rims/tires on vehicle. Have had vehicle in to 2 dealerships to investigate - nothing wrong found.

    Traded in 2007 Yukon XL with Premium Suspension (same size rims and identical tires) and am beside myself with how rough the Autoride suspension is. Have complained to GMC and have the Customer Assistance Center involved.

    The current ride 'feel' is just the opposite of what it should be: "A pleasing, refined and well-isolated ride."

    Is anyone else dealing with this?
  • ukondoitukondoit Member Posts: 28
    bn2cynical - 20" wheels? What kind of tires do you have on the beast?
  • bn2cynicalbn2cynical Member Posts: 4
    Tires are Bridgestone Dueler H/L P275 55R20 M&S. Construction: Tread = 2 Ply Polyester, 2 Steel, 1 Nylon; Sidewall = 2 Ply Polyester. Setup is factory. Again these are the identical tires as on the 2007 which rode much better.
  • ukondoitukondoit Member Posts: 28
    You traded in the 2007 Yukon XL and maybe I missed something, what model is the new vehicle?
  • bn2cynicalbn2cynical Member Posts: 4
    Old vehicle traded in was the 2007 Yukon XL (premium suspension - not autoride equipped). New vehicle 2010 Yukon XL Denali w/autoride suspension. Upgraded in cost/features - downgraded in suspension/ride quality.

    Researched parts for Denali vs. Escalade and both are the same (except for Electronic Suspension Control Module - probably to eliminate service department errors when the Tech II is plugged in). Drove a new Escalade ESV. Ride quality is night and day - Escalade rides butter smooth compared to the Denali. Why?????

    Have 10 pages of questions, input, complaint, etc in to the customer assistance center @ GMC. Today I should get a call from a rep at the Tech Dept to discuss this issue. We'll see what happens!!!!!!
  • ukondoitukondoit Member Posts: 28
    When you drove the 2010 Escalade, was the Escalade equipped with similar tires (like yours with the narrow 50 series profile tire with the 20inch wheels)??? Just curious..

    I have a 2004 Yukon XL Denali AWD and it rides great. Currently have the new Michellin Latitudes P265/70R17 and they ride great. Yukon also has 126,000+ miles on it, but the front and rear shocks are new OEMS.

    I can't imagine that the 20 inch wheels (with the small profile) would ride very well. Keep us posted.
  • jkeightleyjkeightley Member Posts: 4
    Just wanted to update anyone who might need to know what I learned.....when bench testing the compressor, make sure your power supply can deliver at least 10 amps @ 12v. I bought a new compressor from arnott, bench tested it and it failed (due to power supply issues). My problem was the coil failure and I probably could have fixed it following the directions in an earlier post. The good news is that the folks at arnott are superb!
  • bn2cynicalbn2cynical Member Posts: 4
    Cadillac Escalade ESV factory equipped with 22" wheel/tire combo, which has less sidewall (reduced road shock absorption) than what is factory installed on the Denali, and the NEW Escalade (4 miles on the odo) rode butter smooth.

    Our old 2007 Yukon XL had the same exact tires w/20" rims (factory combo).

    There's something definitely wrong with the Denali, but GMC hasn't done anything yet to attempt to find the problem - all the mechanics will say is "There's no fault code so our hands are tied, there's nothing wrong, suspension operates as designed."

    First mechanic blew smoke up 'you know where' with the following statements: 1) GMC builds the Denali's more like trucks now; 2) Give the vehicle 20,000 miles to break in the suspension; and 3) The vehicle will ride better fully loaded.

    My responses: To statement 1 - If I wanted the ride of a truck, I would have bought one. Besides, why then all the seats? To statement 2 - Funny, our 2007 Yukon XL, same body style, rode perfect from day 1. To statement 3 - It's only my wife, myself and our 2 dogs. When, if ever, will I get the vehicle fully loaded? Shouldn't the suspension operate correctly regardless of the load? I towed my bass boat around and the ride got worse.

    No call yesterday from GMC Tech Dept. Maybe today?
  • loibip2loibip2 Member Posts: 1
    @mag44...thanks for all your posts thus far!

    "Service Ride Control" (msg on dash)

    I've skipped all over and need to find out what sequence I should be troubleshooting this problem before I just shoot myself! :mad:

    I've replaced the compressor (w/Arnott)
    Bench tested compressor (runs fine)
    Replaced blown 40A fuse (Stud 1)
    Checked IGN3 10A & RTD 10A (both OK)
    Tested Relay by jumping 85w/86, 87 to ground & 30 to 12V (No clicky?)
    Jumped 87w/30 on Relay & heard compressor run
    Have NOT done anything yet with Blue/White wires on solenoid.

    Thanks in advance!!
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Hi loibip2,

    It sounds like your relay is bad, if you run 12 V to 30 and a ground to 87, then jumper 85 and 86 and no click then it's the relay. When you jumper 87 directly to 30 you are just hot wiring directly to the compressor.

    The other test you can do is jumper the blue & white wire on the truck side of the connector on the compressor when is't hooked up to make sure the exhaust solenoid is working.

    But from what you said I would replace the relay.

    The last two things would be checking the wheel sensors and the new Arnott sensors if the relay does not solve your problems.

    Please let me know how it goes.


    .
  • ga60ga60 Member Posts: 2
    Do you know who is knowledgable enough to repair autoride? Dealer says all is working correctly on my 2003 Dinali, but rides like a go cart on gravel.
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    If all the components seem to be working but still riding rough then the local dealer should be able to help or a local shop. Sorry I have no idea beyond what you already tried.

    It sounds like you have no fault messages and you can hear the compressor come on like it should?
  • ga60ga60 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, things are working well, except the ride. Thanks for your reply. I will let you know what I come up with in the future. I will be changing the shocks soon. I do have 150,000 miles on the rig.
  • tstrouptstroup Member Posts: 1
    Mag44,

    You were spot on. My 04 Denali XL's compressor quit working a few weeks ago and I received the "Service Suspension" error on my information center. I checked fuses, power to the pump, etc. Same thing as everyone else. My neighbor was helping me test the system- so we pulled the compressor out and bench tested it. Compressor kicked in when we gave it juice- which baffled my neighbor. I said, "Hey- let's pull this top cover off where the blue and white wires go in. There was a guy on a forum talking about a wire broken off at the terminal." You were right. We tested the coil and we weren't getting any reading. We found the broken wire, soldered it back, tested and we were in business. Re-installed the pump, turned the rig on, and the sweet sound of the compressor was on again. The message was gone as well.

    Thank you so much for saving me at least $180 on this fix!

    If you are ever in Bismarck, ND I will buy you a beer!!

    Thanks again, Tim.
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Hey Tim, Your welcome...I'm glad that worked out for you. I will put you in the book for the next time I drink my way across the country!! Thanks.
  • amc_heavenamc_heaven Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my 2004 Yukon XL and the "Service Stability" message came on AND STAYS ON. Also accompanying the error message are two idiot lights ABS (Brakes) and T/C (Traction Control). I checked brake fluid levels and it is just below the max fill line on the reservoir. Also have heard a dragging sound in the area of the right front wheel but they aren’t hot when I touch the hub area. The sound really is evident when making left turns regardless wither they are sharp turns or not. I hooked up the Scantool® analyzer and it tells me no error codes were found and everything tests good. What does this error message mean and where do I start? Please, any advice would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  • gman68gman68 Member Posts: 10
    Have you had your shocks checked? You may find that one if not both may be bad. My 03 Denali did the same thing. When I had the vehicle raised we were surprised to find that the passenger shock had failed and was lowered; while the drivers side had failed but was still supporting the weight of the vehicle.

    The compressor is usually quiet and usually turns on a few seconds after the vehicle is started. The compressor may need new rubber bushings as well to lessen the vibration which in turn lessen the noise of the compressor. Let me know what oyur find out. I have other leads for you as well.

    GMan68
  • gman68gman68 Member Posts: 10
    It could be a number of things so I sugget checking the following:
    Wheel Bearings
    Ball Joints
    Shocks
    Speed Sensors may need cleaning
    ABS Sensors may need cleaning
    If you have air ride your compressor may have failed

    Let me know what you find.

    GMan68
  • gman68gman68 Member Posts: 10
    I agree with gmni32; but you may also want to check to see if your rubber bushings on the compressor need replacing. When mine made the same noise I found a hole in my compressor as well as failed rear shcoks (both). The wierd thing was that the rear drivers side supported the full weight of the vehicle. Therefore I never knew they had failed because there was no rear end sagging. You have to get underneath or have it raised for a better inspection.
  • gman68gman68 Member Posts: 10
    You can have the conversion done but you will get a "Service Auto Ride" message. In order for the message to dissappear you need the bypass sensors that make you vehicle think that airride shocks are still in place.

    Look at arnott.com and suncoreindustries for conversion kits that include sensors and or affordable replacements for your existing system.
  • gman68gman68 Member Posts: 10
    Try arnott.com or suncoreindustries.com
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