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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • pilot9pilot9 Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking at getting my first Jeep. The one I like is a 1998 Sport but the oil pressure gage is showing 10 PSI at idle and 40 PSI at 3 K PRM. I had them take it to a Jeep shop and they checked the oil PSI and it was the same as the gage. Could the oil pump be the only thing $650 or could it be someplace else and how do you think it is on the Engine. They said the Eng light never came on?
    Troy
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    10-40 psi is not all that bad as oil pressure goes.
    Oil volume and a record of oil changes is also important.
    If the oil pressure has been low for a while there will be engine damage.
    Maybe run away if you are nervous.
    I would take any Jeep to a qualified mechanic and have it checked out before laying my money down.
    Find a guy who will look for a reason not too buy the Jeep and keep looking 'til you find one that you feel good about.
    If the initial guess on fixing something is 650 plan on 1300 and don't be surprised if it hits 1950 before you are done.
    There are a lot of things other than oil pressure to look at.
    Engine compression check. Clutch and pressure plate. Brakes and drive train. If it has a soft top how much life is left.
    This vintage Jeep is notorious for electrical bugs too.
    Don't jump the gun. There are a million of these Jeeps out there. Many if really good shape. One that has been thrashed can be a real money pit.
    Spend more time looking at the underside (dirty parts)of one of these old Jeeps.
    That is where you will see the real story of the past life of these tuff little dudes.
    Good luck.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I have a 1999 Sahara, which means the gauges are not the glorified idiot lights fitted to later models. Driving to work today noticed that the temp gauge reading was fluctuating between 210(the normal reading) and mid-way between 100 and 210. The gauge was moving slowly but smoothly and taking several seconds to move from one reading to another. This occurred while driving at @55 mph in 5th gear with the A/C on and an ambient air temperature of @82F. I had my local shop replace the coolant two months ago but today was the first time I've noticed the problem. The coolant recovery tank is full; I'll wait until the engine cools down to check the coolant level in the radiator. I'm thinking an air bubble might be in the system.
    Any other thoughts or suggestions?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Steel dash boards with Stewart Warner gauges stuck in them will last for ever.
    oh-well
    ...just a guess...
    The connectors on the back of the gauge panel (instrument cluster)on all the TJ's tend to rattle loose over time.
    You can pull the cluster and relocate the connector from the back side of the bracket to the front. This takes the looseness out of the connection. Apply dialectic grease to the connection. Put it back together. This might work. Couldn't hurt.
    Next guess would be to check the ground cable from the gauges/controls to the steel dash structure. I've seen these cables attached in different locations.
    If your service guy replaced the hoses make sure that they are still routed correctly. The easiest way to do this is a side-by-side check. Just find another Jeep w/the same engine and compare them. Look for a hose that is routed wrong or that is too long. The hoses should run flat, uphill or downhill. If they hump up then you might get an air lock. Pretty rare.
    Another thing to check would be to make sure all the hoses are firm, no soft spots. This can cause the hose to collapse or if the hose lining is loose it can restrict flow.
    If you find one bad hose replace them all.
    I still think the loose connector on the gauge panel is the most likely.
    Loose connections can sometimes be fixed by a good hard run up and down a bumpy dirt hill. Rip off the top. Turn off the A/C. Go raise a little...dust. If nothing else you and JEEP will be having too much fun to worry about gauge readings and ambient temperatures.
    JFFJ (JEEP forever forever JEEP)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    The connectors on the back of the gauge panel (instrument cluster)on all the TJ's tend to rattle loose over time.

    I've already had that problem- and corrected it. I will check the various ground cables, but none of the other gauges seem to be affected. The hoses weren't changed. Still haven't had a chance to check the coolant level in the radiator itself.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • fredc2fredc2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler automatic, six, and Dana 44 rearend so no anti-lock brakes. I live in the mountains with snow and ice in the winter. When I brake, the front brakes lock up and I go into an uncontrolled slide. The same thing happens when backing downhill - the front brakes lock up and the vehicle slides out of control. Is there a solution or do I just have to try and live with the problem?
    Thanks

    Fred
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Your post is a great argument for specifying ABS, though of course there is no choice in the matter now.

    It's a short heavy vehicle which necessitates a heavy front brake bias, so your situation is not unexpected.

    You can't easily retrofit ABS so you need to increase the available traction, and possibly learn the cadence braking technique (or maybe both). Traction can be increased by using a more aggressive tire, maybe with studs or chains.

    Maybe one of our hosts could move this to an appropriate forum?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe one of our hosts could move this to an appropriate forum?

    The main Wrangler discussion may be a better spot, but since the post title has "problem" in it, hopefully people will find it ok in here.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Rears drum or disc? If drum, you MAY want to adjust the star adjuster (located behind rubber grommet at bottom of discs) to make sure they are making good contact.

    If disc, check the pads/rotors and replace as needed. You MAY want to consider checking or changing the proportioning valve as well.

    If you have a manual, I'd HIGHLY recommend taking advantage of engine compression braking.

    We lived in soCal with the TJ and a Grand Cherokee. We got over 65k on the Grand and we lived at 4200' elevation and had to drive twisting, mountain roads EVERY day to and from work. Even with the automatic, you can 'shift' the gears and let the engine do some of the work. On snow/ice, make sure you've downshifted BEFORE you are on it. :)

    -Paul
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Well, the teperature gauge is now acting normally again. I suspect an air bubble in the cooling system, which sorted itself out on its own. Daytime high temperatures are currently +100F, so I'll soon find out if the cooling system has any real problems... :surprise:

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • karlw90karlw90 Member Posts: 59
    ..I own a '05 Wrangler Unlimited w/29,500 miles on it..

    A major issue that has come up is when I'm braking, the entire Jeep shakes. The amount of shaking varies by the quickness of the braking or how fast I'm going.. but it shakes most of the time, sometimes quite severely. There's no issue w/acceleration and it drives fine at 75+ mph on the highway. Is this an issue with brake pads/rotors? (FYI -I just had a tuneup done about 4k ago at a Jeep dealer and they found nothing wrong with my brakes).

    Second issue.. much less severe.. somehow I lost "power" when on the 2nd tick of fan power. The 1st tick and 3rd and 4th work fine, but the fan goes dead on the 2nd. I also notice that when choosing the floor direction, no air is coming out on the drivers' side. Any ideas? :confuse:

    Thanks.
  • pilot9pilot9 Member Posts: 3
    Burntup thanks for your message. We are trying to be a little picky and are still looking. The Engine damage is the real thing i'm thinking about.
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    can anyone help me find the part# for the rear transfer case seal. went looking under my jeep again.. and have a sling mark of oil around the aft flange mount that the rear driveshaft hooks to. i believe the flange is held on by a large casalated nut. and that there is a seal behind it.

    and i was wondering one other thing...i am going to change my clutch...if there is fluid on the manual trans cover plate will this be rear engine seal leaking or a front trans seal?

    all help appreciated
    Cheers Evil
  • ozark200ozark200 Member Posts: 5
    When I encounter rough, bumpy blacktop at 45 mph or higher, front end shakes greatly. Could lose steering control. Only solution is slowing down. Front end shop examined and found no problem except loose nut which they tightened. Problem has returned. Vehicle has only 66000 miles on it, mostly gravel roads but no offroad.
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    "this Post Copied from thiscarabeth"

    This is often called "death wobble"
    As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
    Check tire pressures
    Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
    Lifts can aggravate wobble

    i personally had a front end alignment & my tires rebalanced (twice) to get rid of my DW.

    good luck & cheers
  • awidenhouseawidenhouse Member Posts: 4
    I have a 97 Wrangler and it seems the steering box is leaking somewhere near where the steering column enters the steering box. It has power steering, but doesn't seem to be coming from the connections from the lines. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Me too...
    I have power washed around the box and am going to check for the source of the leak. I think it is the seal on the pressure line where it enters the steering box. Looks like it is going to be pretty stupid to get to. ...might be the input shaft seal.
    Does it seem that the chrysler/jeeps are more dodge than Jeep?
  • bhangbhangbhangbhang Member Posts: 1
    Please help !!! This seemingly simple task is about to make me loose the plot :)

    I want to replace the paddle door handles and I am battling to remove the inside door panels! Is there some hidden voodoo spell I have carelessly overlooked?

    1) Do I need to remove the window winder, if so how?
    2) How go I safely remove the latch and locking linkage?

    Any tips, help or advice will be greatly appreciated, and pics will get you into my hall of fame. Please help guys...

    Regards
    Novice Jeep Lunatic
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If it is leaking, best, easist, and probably cheapest solution is to just replace the steering box. You CAN use one from a Durango V8 from 1998 IIRC and it will be stronger and a bit less prone to leak. It is a straight swap replacement.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you have the half doors, this should help. If not, it should at least help you find your way a bit (probably a couple of extra steps or two for window cranks..)

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/body/doorpanel/doorpanel-1.htm

    -Paul
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    Help, I am at the end of any knowledge that I thought I had in the subject. I have a 97 Wrangler, 6cyl, 5 speed. I have received a check engine light often for a couple of months and now it is on all the time. The trouble codes are 12(direct battery input to PCM disconnect) and 51(lean air/fuel mix). I smell a "sweet" exhaust, there is carbon build up around the exhaust pipe and when I accelerate hard I can see a plume of black smoke behind me. The plugs have a coating of carbon but otherwise appear in good condition. I can not find any vacume leaks and have been unable to detect any bare wires. Can the O2 sensor or MAP sensor be the problem (there are no fault codes indicating that they are bad)? Can I test them before replacing them? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim
  • jwdeltajwdelta Member Posts: 1
    Back on July 20, while driving at highway speed, my 6 cyl 2004 started to miss. I managed to get it to the Jeep dealer ... WHO STILL HAS IT!

    It misses on only the No. 5 cylinder.

    They've replaced the coil assembly, the computer, they've checked compression ... and they've even put on a new head — even though there was nothing wrong with the old one ... they have tried everything.

    They put new head on it and put it all together today — and No. 5 still misses. Runs like a log truck!

    Anyone experience anything like this? I really feel the dealer is doing everything they can and are as frustrated as I am — except for the fact they aren't making the payments with it sitting in the shop!

    Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    For your errant cylinder to fire it needs only three things,

    (i) a spark (at the right time),
    (ii) compression,
    (iii) fuel (correct mix at the right time).

    Any mention of item (iii) seems to be missing from the dealer's attempts to solve a simple problem.
  • mark1981mark1981 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all, hope you can help me out. I've just bought the above wrangler and i love it but i have a problem. She starts up fine but when the engines running up to temp (just before 100 on gauge)it hesitates and backfires with a near total loss of power for a min or 2 then clears as temp rises past it. Any ideas would be greatful, Mark
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Check for any codes. Go to Autozone and they can read the codes the engine is throwing. My guess is the throttle position sensor or one of the O2 sensors. The TPS replacement is a 10 minute job at most. The O2 sensors just take more contortion to get to, but not too tough to change out. TPS is about 53.00 or so while the O2 sensors are a bit more IIRC.

    Have you check the plugs and wires? May be worth putting on some Champion spark plugs and making sure the distributor cap is all good as well. Easy and relatively inexpensive to do.

    -Paul
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    i purchased a 98 wrangler sahara,and it has been flawless(except it turns over 10 times before it starts) since i bought it.over the summer,i noticed that when i ran the a/c,the engine would start to run rough.turn a/c off and ran fine.anyways,one night on the way to rescue call,i parked my jeep along side road and turned on flashers(ignition turned off)when i was finished,i headed back down road,and it died. i restarted it and went along,all of a sudden the highbeams switched to low beams and back on there own.since that night,it will run terrible at low idle.will run better when rpms increase.i was on my way to the local mechanic,and it died again.this time it fried to fuel pump relay.switched the relay with horn relay,and it restarted.mechanic not sure what is wrong.he replace the cap and rotor and test drove.would not duplicate it for him.i picked it up and drove for 2 days.started it one night and turned lights on,and low and behold it started to sputter again.turned lights off and it acted fine. i am stumped! please advise if any of you have experienced this.sorry this is so long, but wanted to describe best i could. thanks,bill
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Couple of issues here. First, your fuel system isn't holding pressure, maybe a leaking injector. That's why it has to spin over for so long before starting.

    Second, you have a low voltage issue, most likely a bad battery, though it could be poor connections. Once you get that sorted, have the alternator checked too.
  • jprussingjprussing Member Posts: 4
    Im not sure if this is the right place to be posting this but here i go.... My jeep for the past year now has been blowing holes in my muffler. Ive replaced mufflers 3 or 4 times now and it keeps happening, i have a lift and im on 33" tires and its only a 4 cylinder maybe the back pressure is to much with the stock exhause pipe? do to the load the tires stress on the engine? i dont know...So in the mean time ill patch it up seal it up and it will run pretty good until suddenly my rpm decrease like im running out of gas and then the engine back fires blowing out any seal i had put on there, same thing happens if muffler is brand new.. Now when i seal it up acceleration is good smooth runs fine but once it back fires like that and messes up my muffler my accleration is just about nothing at this point no power... idles rough seems to be missing and back fires while switching through gears now im thinking distributor problem but how does that incorporate into my exhaust system im kind of confused because if my muffler is fine acceleration is fine no back fires while switching gears only up to the point my seals blow out on the muffler or if it was newer muffler holes develope and same problems consist again.. If you have any info on this its highly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    or if it was newer muffler holes develope and same problems consist again..

    Exactly what type of holes are appearing? I've seen a new muffler blown apart at the seams after a backfire, but there's no way it could be repaired with sealer.
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    To fold rear seat in upright position do this:
    Remove 3 retaining bolts from each seat support.You have 2
    seat supports, one on left side and one on right side.
    Before you remove seat supports from the floor mark them down with letter "L" and "R". Next step is very important.
    Seat support with letter "L" place backwards to RIGHT SIDE
    put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
    Seat support with letter "R" place backwards to LEFT SIDE,
    put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
    Put rear seat back on seat supports and you will be able to
    fold seat upright. Seat need to be secured in that position.
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    i installed a new battery and a new alternator.it still will not charge over 13.8v. i also checked all connections and grounds. i am about to give up1
  • jprussingjprussing Member Posts: 4
    its at the seams i usually will seal it up wit quick steel but usually dont last to long... im just curious what exactly would be the cause of this.. i just do that because im tight on cash b/c im in school dont got the $ to re do at the moment.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First of all, has there been any change in the low idle/stumbling situation? Second, did you have the old alternator checked before replacing it?

    The acceptable voltage range for most automobile electrical systems with the engine running is 13.7v - 14.4v. Even a new battery from the store won't be fully charged, so you can expect that figures will be at the lower of the range to start with. I take it that you are measuring voltage with a multimeter at the battery with the engine running?

    However, if things are still bad then the final suspect item is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM regulates the voltage output from the alternator, and controls the idle speed (as well as a hundred and one other things). The PCM responds to a low battery voltage with the symptoms that you mentioned, i.e. low idle/ stumbling/ stalling at low rpm, no idle up on a/c engagement.
    The PCM is dependant, though not totally, on the various sensor inputs to make its decisions. If it lacks an input it has a fallback 'safe' mode for that system.
    Before deciding that the PCM is bad it's worth doing some more circuit checking, especially the grounds to the PCM.

    Assuming your problem still exists, and the new battery and alternator are good, then the PCM is either receiving bad information (poor connections/grounds), or is itself bad.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's nothing to do with your lift or tire size, but everything to with an accumulation of unburnt fuel in the exhaust which explodes when ignited.

    Before anything else, check for codes. After that the next most likely suspect (of many) is an O2 (lambda) sensor.

    You might also try posting in the 'Up to 1996' version of this topic.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I have a couple Jeeps that are running fine and they show the same charge voltage, 13.8 volts.
  • ravis1ravis1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking to buy a used Jeep Wrangler, probably an 03, 04, or 05, and was wondering about how many miles can a Wrangler go before having problems? I've seen some with up to 75K miles and I don't want to buy one if they tend to start having problems in the 90 or 100K mark. I appreciate the feedback!
  • tat2s8tat2s8 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought my first jeep it has a 4cylinder with 32" tires really doggish wanted to switch to a 6cyl. I was told I need to swap tranny can anybody help me out is this true?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes it is. You'll also have to swap the radiator and shroud, PCM, propeller shafts, exhaust, wiring harness, and a myriad of smaller items, plus fabricating new engine mounts.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Uh, not really the transmission, but if you have the stock gears in that SE, you could get quite a bit of the oomph back by regearing to 4.56 or 4.88.

    My SE has 33's and I loaded up 4.88 gearing and it does just fine, though it still struggles on the highway at times.

    If you DO swap from a 4 to a 6, the transmission would go from the AX-5 to the AX-15, unless you wanted to put in one of the newer NV transmissions. (assuming manual transmission here). The transmissions for the 4 cyl won't handle the power of the 6 cyl w/o breaking. May not happen right away, but it will at some point. :)

    -Paul
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    thanks for your reply xscout! i appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. and to mac24, you the man! my jeep will still sputter,but only on first start up when its cold and its under a load. it will sputter for 25-40 seconds,then will run fine until i shut it off,let it sit for awhile and then it will do the same.i am wondering if could be fuel regulator or bad plug wire?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's possible. Unless you know the service history, why not just go ahead and replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor anyway?.

    They probably need it, it will eliminate them as suspects (or it will fix the problem), and it will give you a baseline for future servicing of the ignition system.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I'm looking to buy a used Jeep Wrangler, probably an 03, 04, or 05, and was wondering about how many miles can a Wrangler go before having problems?

    I bought a 1999 Sahara five speed with 36K miles in 2004. It now has over 105K on it. In addition to scheduled maintenance I've fitted front pads/rear shoes, a radiator(all copper, replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum unit), front sway bar links, Bilstein HD shocks, and a Banks Torque tube exhaust manifold. I didn't really need to replace the shocks, I just prefer Bilsteins. The TJs you are looking at have a different exhaust manifold design so replacement should not be required. I change the oil(Mobil 1 5W-30) every 6K, the coolant every two years, and the diffs, transfer case, and manual transmission at 60K intervals(again using synthetics). I fully expect to get another 100K out of it at a minimal expense.
    Buy one. You won't regret it.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Unless you have a good inexpensive source for parts AND you can do all the work yourself, you'd probably be better off selling the four banger and buying a TJ with a six. That said, a MT four-banger isn't a bad ride. As erickpl noted, you probably just need a set of lower gears...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    You can get 250K+ out of the 4.0L inline six with proper maintenance (follow what RR just outlined). Most of the problems come earlier rather than later, once they've been worked out the thing will just keep running.
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    i just got done changing the cap and rotor,plug wires and ignition coil. if i let it sit and idle for 5-10 minutes,it will not miss a beat,but if i just take off,it will still stumble after a few seconds. after reading some other postings,i am going to unplug the o2 sensor and see what happens.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You won't hurt anything doing that, but you might also want to check if the PCM is holding any codes. Autozone will read it for free.
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    it was checked for codes and did not hold any,sorry i did not mention that.since i unhooked the front O2 sensor,it has ran with no more hesitation,but the check engine light stays on. does this tell me that if i replace the sensor and plug it back in,it will be fixed? thanks for all your replys.you are an asset to this site.
  • larson7078larson7078 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Wrangler with the low beam not working. When you pull back on the high/low lever is it suppose to spring forward or stay in either a forward or a backward position?
    Don
  • gsyoung1960gsyoung1960 Member Posts: 52
    I've found several posts related to the "Death Wobble", but didn't really see where anyone responded with what fixed it.

    I'm getting a terrible shaking of the whole jeep when I hit a bump while driving around 45-50. I shake is soo bad a car behind me stoped me afterwards because they thought the front wheel were gonna come off my jeep. The only way to get out of the wobble is to almost stop the vehicle.

    I've seen several posts that mention the same problem. Can someone please respond to indicate how to fix this thing... it's pretty scary!

    Thanks,
    Scott
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    The lever on my 98 doesn't spring back and never did. You push it back forward to get into low-beam mode.
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