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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Don,

    Looking over some old posts, it looks like these things work in different ways for different year models. :confuse:

    On my 2000 TJ, low-beam is in the centered position (front to back) pulling it back gives a momentary high-beam, releasing it lets it spring back to low-beam. Pushing it forward, it goes to hi-beam and stays until you pull it back to center.

    Terry
  • nw1nw1 Member Posts: 1
    Don't know if this will help, had a wobble at the same speed but not real bad on my jeep. The rear tire was low. On my chev the front rotor was warped (death wobble real bad on that one) replaced, stopped.
  • jamisongbjjamisongbj Member Posts: 1
    You should definately replace the O2 sensor. It tells the computer if you have to much or too little oxygen coming through. Too much means too lean a gas mixture in the combustion and too little means its too dense. They are not that costly and easy to replace.
  • houzejeephouzejeep Member Posts: 3
    Everyone talks about how easy it is to remove the fender flares but mine are old. The problem I'm having is the bolts that screw into the metal are not coming out because the inserts are just spinning in the metal. I can't believe I'm the first one with this problem. Some bolts have clips they screw into and others screw right into the body metal and the inserts are just spinning. The first flare I took off I just ripped the 2 bolts and inserts right out of the metal but there has to be a better way. Any ideas???
  • b10kb10k Member Posts: 6
    :) thanks for the input. i changed the sensor and it has ran flawlessly.
  • rnkryanrnkryan Member Posts: 5
    I have a 4cyl and my computer says lean system 2 bank 1,what could the problem be,thanx...
  • rnkryanrnkryan Member Posts: 5
    Ok here goes. My jeep has 61,000 mi on it and I've owned it for about a month. About ten minutes into driving(repeatable... every time) my Jeep stalls out if I give it any gas. If I let it sit for 5 minutes, I can drive it another 20 feet before it dies again. If I let it cool down completely I can drive it for another ten minutes. I got a check engine light so I hooked it up to a reader. I got code P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). I cheacked the exhaust too see if it was red hot from perhaps a cat clog, and have already changed the map sensor. So after throwing 100 bucks down the toilet I've decided to cry out for some guidance. Any takers?
    Thanks. Randy
  • kimber67kimber67 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem. It is currently at the dealer for the third time. At first they replaced the u joints. The second time, the steering damper. Now engineering is saying to put on an " aftermarket steering damper" Not acceptable to me on a new Jeep. Some of the off road guys mentioned tie rod ends, bushings & last but not least the steering box itself. I will let you know what the "pros" come up with & if it solves the problem
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    Go to post 1028 and follow the thread from there if that sounds familiar.
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    Please go to the main Jeep Wrangler message board. "Death wobble" can rise from any of the components of the steering system (including the tires). If you get under the Jeep and look for any looseness while your buddy moves the steering wheel left and right, you have a potential cause.
  • rryanjrrryanjr Member Posts: 4
    Ok, update time. I tried the O2 sensor and that wasn't it. Here's what else I'm now noticing. When I first start it up(cold) I can hear the fuel pump kick on. But right after it stalls about ten minutes into driving, when I turn the key I don't hear the pump. Not even laying right under the tank. I just hear it bubble a little. Once I let it sit for about 20 minutes, when I turn the key, I can hear the pump like normal again.
    So I know the the fuel system is a pressure system, and if it drops below a certain pressure, the pump shuts down. But what if it goes above a certain pressure? Like a half clogged fuel filter? Is the fuel filter inside the tank? Just a thought that I figured I'd throw out there before I go dropping my tank... Thanks for all the help.
    Randy
  • rryanjrrryanjr Member Posts: 4
    Ok, another update, and this one narrows it down I think. I drove until my Jeep started to stumble again (about 10 minutes). Without letting it die completely, I just got out and hit the bottom of my tank a few good times with a rubber hammer. Then I got back in and it ran fine for another 30 minutes... just like that. It did it again, and I repeated hitting the gas tank, and it ran fine again all the way home. Does this mean that my fuel pump is going bad? or is it something else? Thanks.
    Randy
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    Just a thought but on my old Mercury Mystique there was a "sock" in the fuel tank on the end of the fuel delivery tube to the internal fuel pump. I never had a problem with it but other owners reported that the sock could get clogged and cause intermittent problems.

    It sounds like you are breaking loose some debris in the tank when you hit it with a hammer and then it eventually settles back down and clogs the fuel line.

    Now that I think about it, I had an old '72 Impala many years ago that would run for a while and then stop. I replaced the inline fuel filter but it still acted up. The repair shop eventually pulled the tank and boiled it out because they discovered leaves and other things clogging the sock in the tank.
  • rryanjrrryanjr Member Posts: 4
    Ok, I dropped the tank and opened her up, and she was as clean as new. I have a lift in my garage so I've been able to inspect everything, and as far as I can tell, there are no leaks and no kinks anywhere in the system. I don't smell any gas in the engine campartment either, so I don't think that my injectors are leaking. Since banging on the bottom of the tank fixes it temporarily I can only conclude that my pump is going bad and a quick jolt is kicking it back on. But I'm not really a fuel system expert, so.... any other suggestions?

    Randy
  • cwilson3cwilson3 Member Posts: 1
    This same thing happened to my 97 Jeep Wrangler about 5 years ago. I did not have anywhere to work on it at the time so I sent it to a shop. I had the Fuel Pump and filter replaced and it worked fine (another 60K miles) until last week. It just started doing it again. I am not sure which one caused it- I wish I was because I am going to do it myself this time and I would rather just have to buy and replace a filter than both.
  • wyowranglerwyowrangler Member Posts: 1
    Hi, new to this forum. I have a 2000 Wrangler Sport. It is a great vehicle and is lots of fun. However it has been making a growling noise from the rear end when I turn a corner. It only does this after driving for a while on the highway. It does have the factory limited slip rear end. Has anybody run across this problem!

    Thanks!
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    How many miles? Last time the lube was changed in the rear end? This should have been done at 36k and 96k or any time you might have gotten water in the diffs.

    Might Just be a little Muddy Waters...
    http://youtube.com/watch?v=-Izn0s2yLtQ
    ...dem tigers growl.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    And if they did change the differentials, did they add the special limited slip additive in with the fresh fluid?

    First thing, of course, is to crawl under your Jeep and check the differential to see if it's full of fluid.
  • ryanf1ryanf1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Edalex

    hey, did you ever sort out the problem with the low oil pressure -- i have the same problem at the moment.

    ryanf1
  • rubiconrobertrubiconrobert Member Posts: 3
    I have had the same diverter door problem since my 05 was new-- did you find a fix? dealer keeps telling me it won't do it for them--only has a problem after it sits for a few days. thanks
  • rubiconrobertrubiconrobert Member Posts: 3
    This is to reply #700-- My problem is intermittant-- sometimes the vents work where the switch says..but usually the problem is after it sits for awhile-- whatever the diverter positions were the last time it was on -- they stay there. Eventually if you run recirculate for awhile, change positions-- things gradually work again. Any ideas? Dealer always tells me the problem does not exist when he checks it out (surprise) rubiconrobert
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I found a small battery under my seat in my Jeep. Its an A23 12 volt. I cannot figure out what it goes to...help.
    TIA
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Do you have a garage door opener or alarm system?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Nope...I thought might have fallen out of some spot on the Jeep but maybe it was something else.

    TIA
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Welcome to the world of Chrysler.
    The diverter door problem has been with the Dodge Vans since the 70's.
    Your dealer needs to take the whole thing apart and lube all the little plastic bits and hopefully put it back together the right way.
    If you keep the JEEP long enough you will have to do it again.
    The little vacuum motors that move the d-door are not strong enough to overcome the friction of the d-door mechanisms.
    You can always find solace in the fact that Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep saved 50 cents production cost.
    You can always stop and reach up under the dash and help the doors by pushing or pulling on the levers and linkages.
    This really sucks when it raining since you need to stand outside the drivers door and reach under the dash to wiggle these things.
    If you are in the city and your windows are all fogged up just move the heater control to the defrost position and jump a curb.
    Any cop who drives a JEEP will understand this blind driver move.
    If we all do this (just like Alice's Restaurant) they will all think it's a movement.
    The Crazy TJ Curb Jumper Movement...
  • phillyjeepphillyjeep Member Posts: 1
    The same thing has occurred on my 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara (standard, 4WD, w/A.C.), four times. One time it lasted less than 5 months.. Each time it was replaced under the warranty. After the 4th time it needed to be replaced I asked the service manager what was going on, they suggested it was just bad parts that Chrysler had been given for a blower switch.. I was curious if they even looked to see if there was possibly a different reason it kept on going out, but since replacing it is the quickest fix that’s all they did. They didn’t seem very interested in finding a root cause.

    It's now out of warranty and the blower switch has failed again…

    I considered after that 4th time to call Chrysler to complain about it, and get some kind of guarantee that I wouldn’t have to pay to get another one installed (since in good faith I came in under the warranty to get this fixed correctly which obviously it wasn't), but I never did. I may see what happens when I bring it in the 5th time for the same problem. I may also try replacing it myself since its easily accessible.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    The heater controls are from the same pile of junk as the rest of the heater/AC crap.
    I have a 1947 Willys CJ2A with the original heater rheostat switch.
    The heater core has been rebuilt and the motor was replaced when I converted it to 12 volt, but all the heater wiring is still original.
    Weird huh.
    I have had the blower switch on my TJ replaced 6 times so far.
    Replaced the console once. Smoked the wiring twice.
    MoPar still mean buy MOre PARts every day.
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Desperate question to anyone who has had a similar experience. I have had the death wobble for several months. Balancing and correct tire pressure seemed to take care of it for awhile but it is back. Brought it to the dealer and had the track bar replaced, a broken sway bar link replaced, tires balanced and rotated, front and rear shocks replaced, left and right wheel bearings and axle seals replaced,and replaced front pinion seal due to leak. Steering damper checked and is OK. Everything was covered (except the rotate and balance) by an extended warrenty I thought I would never use. Otherwise $1400.00! Jumped in the Jeep and hit the first highway bump @ 60-65 and its still there. Have to break to 45 for it to stop. Jeep will shake the fillings out of your teeth!! Very dangerous. Dealer wants me back on Mon. to try and duplicate it to mechanic. Now my question: Could it be something as simple as the tires. I have no mods (except for black American Racing rims) or large tires. Have about 32,000 miles on Toyo A/T tires. 60,000 on the Jeep. 50,000 of them I put on. Rims have been on since July 05. No problem at that time. Any suggestions? Wife and friends will no longer ride in the Jeep. Its my daily ride so I'm locked in. Thanks for listening. John
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    I think death wobble has had several posts on the main Wrangler board. You don't have a lot of miles (and, if I read correctly, your TJ is not lifted).
    You might try checking closely for any looseness in the steering by having one person move the steering wheel while another looks carefully at all of the steering components. All parts obviously must move together.
    I discarded a set of tires that have become out-of-round. The tire carcasses can shift, and that might set up an oscillation.
    Other posts in the main board have suggested tire pressures as a possible cause. You might try higher and lower pressure to see - just be careful.
    Good luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you go up to the Group level (link), you can use the search tool there to search every Wrangler discussion for all the death wobble posts. Look for the Search Jeep Wrangler box.
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Thanks for responding. I read every post on the DW. Have tryed everything you suggested and keep coming back to tires. May talk to folks about some BFG's today. Thanks again. I'm going on at least 3 months with this so it has become a real pain. John
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Tires can be a culprit. I'd get under there while somebody is turning your steering wheel so you can make sure your joints are not loose - drag link, tie rod ends, both ends of the track bar, etc. May also want to check your control arms to make sure they are secure and there is no play there.

    Have you tried swapping tires/wheels with somebody to see if a different setup takes care of it?

    -Paul
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Thanks. Will try both this weekend. The swap will be interesting. Thanks again. John
  • tschoppertschopper Member Posts: 1
    The Dreaded Death Wobbles:

    The Death Wobble can be scary [non-permissible content removed]!
    I like you started replacing everything like shocks, tires, and steering parts, which didn’t help. The wobble was still there.
    This problem is in most of the Jeep models. The simple answer is bad ball joints. Jeep has a bad design on the upper ball joints.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Had to classify all cases of DW as being a ball joint issue. Do you have data to back this up or is it what was your problem? For some people I know, the DW they had was a result of:

    1. bad control arm bushings
    2. bad tie rod ends
    3. improperly balanced passenger front wheel
    4. loose steering components

    Not one had a bad ball joint and in fact 2 of them were new Rubicons.

    My old TJ (97 - first year of production), has never had DW, though it has had improperly balanced tires in back. By your statement, mine SHOULD have had DW especially since it was the first year of production.

    I'm not calling BS on your statement as balljoints could be a cause of DW, but it surely is NOT the only cause.

    -Paul
  • dldjeep01dldjeep01 Member Posts: 6
    I am having the same problem on my 2007 wrangler X unlimited 4DR. Been to the dealer twice and is headed back. I am scared to death to drive this vehicle... nice when you spend 30K on something you cannot enjoy much less just drive back and forth to work. :cry:
  • wrangleronstxwrangleronstx Member Posts: 1
    Greetings!

    I drive a 2005 Jeep Wrangler X on an island in the Carribean.

    I don't have problems with leaks, but it often rains here on very short notice and the inside of my Jeep gets wet more often than I'd like and now has a mildew smell about it when I get in.

    I have been told that I should just strip out my carpet, but I am afraid that it will hurt the resale value of the Jeep. (Although I suppose it stinking inside will as well!)

    I was wondering, has anyone tried Husky floor mat liners?

    I thought these might be a good way to collect the water instead of having it sink into the carpet.

    Either that, or are there any car deodorizers you recommend?

    Any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks!

    Doug
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Here's some suggestions:

    Removing Foul Odors from your Vehicle's Interior

    How to Remove Odors from Your Car or Truck's Interior

    I like tossing fresh ground coffee around, but it's just a temporary fix.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Besides pulling out the carpet, consider some waterproof seat covers. They may make you a bit more sweaty while driving, but will pay in the long run.

    When you pull out the carpet, perhaps consider something like Herculiner or Line-X. I'm not sure what options you have available, but Herculiner or Durabak or Rhinolining can be used to cover the floor of the Jeep, protect the paint and prevent rust (an issue on a Caribbean island), provide some sound deadening, and provide mildew-free flooring. It is something you can apply yourself if you don't mind removing the seats and the center console... LOTS of writeups on how to do it on the web.

    What island are you on? Just got back from Bonaire 2 weeks ago. :)

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    I've got the Huskies for the front floorboards. My only complaint is they are difficult to empty--pulling them up usually spills them, so you have to mop water out of them with rags. But they definitely don't leak.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    The last two days it rained and I noticed water under my passenger side floor mat. I recently put my hard top back on but cannot find any places it could be leaking from. The sides are not wet...just under the floor mat. I know its just water by the lack of any oder. Any suggestions on where the water might be coming from?
    TIA
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    I had the same problem last year. On mine, I found that the vents in the back of the top just behind the side glass had come loose from its seal. After pulling the vent louvres and re-sealing them, I have not had anymore problems. Not all tops have the vents. If yours does, I would start there.
  • fairviewfairview Member Posts: 20
    A couple of possibilities. 1. The condensate drain line from your air conditioner could be disconnected and dumping the water in the passenger floor. 2. Many of our beloved vehicles leak water through holes in the firewall when it is raining or when we wash them. Mine does this when it is parked headed uphill and I deal with it by parking headed downhill. As I understand it, you can remove the grill located below the windshield and seal the holes. So far, it has been easier to park headed downhill.
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    I do not have either…and the owner’s manual does not tell you which fuse to check…Anyone know?
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    Never mind...I found it, finally.
  • rvwranglerrvwrangler Member Posts: 1
    The diverter doors are stuck or at least do not move. therefore i cannot change temp setting. Any ideas on how to fix myself? Jeep dealer wants $600.00-$1,000.00. It;s not the control head, I replaced that, no change.$ Estimate by jeep is ridiculous.
  • jamesweeksjamesweeks Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jeep wrangler. The defrost is my problem. If I turn the dial to defrost the windshield it works fine on the fan speed 1 and 2. But when I turn the fan speed to the 3rd setting I hear this loud thud, like a door slamming shut, and no air will blow onto the windshield. I do get air on the side window defrost. This problem resets itself if I turn the fan speed down to 1 and turn off the setting selector knob. I do not have a problem with any other setting.
  • leroyhleroyh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 wrangler. Each time you get into the car to drive, in the beginning it will act like it is starving for fuel. If you put it in neutral and rev the engine, the problem goes away. It doesn't happen again until you park the car and get back in to start and drive it.

    I have had some of the electrical components in the distributor replaced, the fuel pump is new. I just don't know, and neither does the mechanic I take it to, what to do. Any help
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    If this is happening while the vehicle is still hot from a previous drive, and lasts only for say 4-8 seconds long, it is probably fuel percolation. The fuel sitting in the fuel lines above the engine gets quite heated and starts to boil in the line creating air pockets in the fuel being delivered to the injectors. Reving the engine increases the volume of fuel being pumped through the lines and clears it out faster. In any case, the fuel in the lines will always clear fairly quickly and the problem should not reoccur while driving, at least until you turn it off again and let it sit a bit.
  • 99wrangler99wrangler Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 2003 Wrangler TJ Rubicon and noticed that it has the stock electrical fog light hook-ups but lacks the switch in the cab. How do I figure out whether all I am missing is the switch or more? and if I do have the electrical wiring how can I make sure it's connected to the battery?
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