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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • jeepgermanyjeepgermany Member Posts: 3
    Open up your glove box and take it out. It should just be on a strap and then easily removed. On the side of the box is a listing of your fuses. One of them is for your door sensors. I believe on my 04 it is number 7. Also I found that once you remove the fuse you still have to press the sensor to reset it and keep it from coming on again.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Actually it is Fuse #4. not sure if you have to press the sensor again, but I don't on my 97. I installed a switch that I mounted to my OBDII port that let's me deactivate the circuit easily.

    -Paul
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    apreciate the help
  • mikenumikenu Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone had to replace their front rotors before their brake pads (50% wear). My rotors are warped at 25000 miles. And imagine this chrysler will not stand behind this.
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    hey yall i was wondering how i would go about removing the back seats (bench seat) in my 2000 jeep wrangler. ive done all i can think of (aside from actually un bolting it and tearing the carpet up). im pretty sure they come out, my friend told me they would (although he has a 97). if yall know anything about it lemme know, thanks in advance! :confuse:
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    The shaft that goes through the two "ears" on either side of the seat should have a small clip in a groove on the end of the shaft. Pull both of these off. Then slide the seat one direction the get the shaft out of the ear, then slide it the other way to get the other end out.

    This is easier to do with the top down or off. The seat is not easy to handle by yourself, try to get someone to help.

    Terry
  • bigmactasticbigmactastic Member Posts: 1
    i replace the blower motor and resistor checked all the fuses and still no heat i can feel a little coming out but the blower wont kick on are there anything else i can check
  • thechad03thechad03 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Sahara with a manual transmission. I bought it new and it now has 71500 miles. Recently, when it is first cranked up the clutch makes a squeaking noise and tension can be felt when it is depressed. This feeling and noise goes away after a driving awhile. Furthermore, yesterday morning it did not want to go into second gear up or down it made a scraping sound. The gears move very freely while stopped and it the second gear issue does loosen up after driving awhile. I did have the transmission fluid changed this morning but nothing changed. The hydrolic fluid is fine. I haven't abused the trans., or been missing any gears...Any ideas, clutch not disengaging properly, synchronizer? Is there a problem with these trans that comes up a lot?
  • gnetivgnetiv Member Posts: 2
    Well here in sunny California we finally got some rain, so guess what...time to play in the mud. Long story short, got out of the mud went home to get some quarters for the car wash. The Jeep started up fine, went to the car wash to spray the bottom out so mud won't be flying all over the place on the highway. Started the Jeep and parked it at my in-laws to get the kids. Went out to the Jeep an hour later and found that I left my lights on.

    Tried to start the Jeep and it won't fire. It turns over but won't fire. First thought is the battery is dead so tried to jump it and still won't fire. Replaced the battery with a fully charged one and it still won't fire. I have a check engine light on so I check the OBD code...P0340 Camshaft position sensor error. Disconnected the battery for about 20min, pulled the sensor blew dry it, thinking I got it wet when spraying under the Jeep. Put it back in connected the battery, cranked up the Jeep and it still won’t fire. No engine light now...ran the diag, no error code now. Replaced the camshaft sensor with a working one and still no fire.
    Reading up in other forums it looks like the Crankshaft position sensor maybe bad as well. Replaced that one and same issue. Checked fuses, relays and voltages...everything looks good. up. Fuel pump is working. Checked coil rail and I'm not getting a spark. Checked the voltage on the coil connector and I'm getting the necessary 12v but it only lasts for about a second before it disappears. This leads me to the PCM not working. Tested my PCM and it works...how did I test it, my neighbor has a 2003 Jeep, plugged it into his jeep and it fired right up. Guess its back to the sensors. Still have a few more to tests out like the: ECT IAT MAP TPS.

    Any help would much appreciate. Not at a mechanic at all other then able to change the oil/plugs/and filters. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Key words in your post:

    1. Mud
    2. Water
    3. Rough run/won't start.

    Had problems like that too. Replaced the Throttle position sensor in 10 minutes after buying one at Autozone for 53.00. Non-issue since.

    -Paul
  • gnetivgnetiv Member Posts: 2
    erickpl

    That was next on the list as well. Gonna give it a shot and let u know. Thanks!
  • jasonbisherejasonbishere Member Posts: 2
    Hi Guys,
    I just bought another jeep wrangler after having sold my 98 wrangler a year ago...guess i couldn't live without them. Either way I'm in pretty cold weather (around 10 degrees at night) and heat is necessary. So far I haven't been impressed. I'll go outside in the morning and start her up on low for about 10 minutes, still as cold as anything...I start driving and after about 20 more minutes I can feel heat, it's just barely being pushed out amongst a lot of cold air.

    I took it back to the dealer and they ran some tests saying there was about a hundred degree difference between the core and the output which was bad, they flushed everything and said they fixed the problem. But I have yet to notice any difference. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
  • jasonbisherejasonbishere Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same exact problem...if you find out anything, please let me know
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    hey yall i have a 2000 xj sport, and i wanna mount a fishing rod holder to the front bumper, but im not sure where to attach it. its the factory bumper, and it has 2 baja lights on it, but its nothing spiffy and i dont know if i wanna drill into it and have the rod holder sticking out like 4 feet to the front. the link below is a picture of the exact rod holder. thanks for the help yall!

    http://digitaldagger.com/gear/miscl/rodholder6.jpg">link title
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Must be after some really huge fish there Rebel.
    Are you goin' ta use the winch to reel 'em in or just go low-lock and back up real fast? Just a thought, if your not using a winch it might be better to mount the rods on the back bumper so you have a wide selection of gears.
    Post some pics of the Big Cats later...?
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    hahaha 10-4 buddy but i dont think theyll be that big. the reason i want the rod holder is so i can drive up on the beach and leave the rods in there whithout having to hold on to em, but youre right i might wanna hook it to the back, maybe the tailgate thing. heres a pic of one of the hunkers i caught, just cause you asked!

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6300/l1f2e8cf764faf96950f255ys1.jpg
  • jcombiesjcombies Member Posts: 3
    I have an "06" wrangler at 10,000 miles they had to replace the rotors because they were warped. Today they had to replace them again at 19,500. Anyone else with this problem.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Mine acted up the day I drove it off the lot. Within a couple of weeks they replaced them but I have not had the problem since. I now have around 13,000 on it. What did they tell you was the reason for it to happen?

    2006 jeep Wrangler X
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Well.....any takers
  • jcombiesjcombies Member Posts: 3
    They don't have any explanation, I'm picking it up at 4:00 I'm going to talk to them some more about it I'll let you know what they have to say.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    ...nice catch Rebel.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    If memory serves me, they just said, "it must have been a "bad batch."...ya know those vehicles that were made from 1pm to 2pm in the middle of some month that they pick randomly. Seriously though, this could be the beginng of a recall.LOL(
  • jcombiesjcombies Member Posts: 3
    Thats exactly what they said when I picked it up. A bad batch! A bad batch TWICE in 19,500 miles.
  • bambam45bambam45 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've had my Wrangler for a few months now with no problems. It was bought used (35,000 mi). The problem i have now is that it will start, but will not stay running. Is there a fuel filter that I need to change or is it the fuel pump?
  • jow1998jow1998 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 97 jeep wrangler se-with 144,000 miles on it. Before I purchased it the previous owner replaced the wiper motor. Now when I turn the car on the fuse for the wipers blows -everytime-so the wipers dont work at all,which living in NY is not a good thing. Any ideas as to why this might be happening?
  • jeepers06jeepers06 Member Posts: 2
    same problem 06 wrangler complete brake job @9,000 miles they told me too much mud!!!!!!
  • jeepers06jeepers06 Member Posts: 2
    jeep wrangler 2006 19,100 miles has loud engine tick ..... dealer has told me no error code everthing is normal.took it another dealer $589 dollars on induction flush
    carbon build up on valves. TICK TICK TICK! still ticking anyone have any sugg. :mad:
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'd check to see if any wiring running to the motor has any tears or exposed wiring. I suspect either your ground is loose/off or your wiring is chafed and hitting exposed metal.

    Getting to the motor is VERY easy. Lift hood. Remove all 7 or so small screws holding the cowl cover on (may have to peel back a bit of rubber from the front of the cowl to see the screws).

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    if you are having brake 'warp' issues, you have a couple of options. First of all, warpage is either a true warping of the rotor from excessive heat or a simple buildup of brake pad material.

    If you wheel offroad, forget slotted/drilled rotors. That will just be a home for mud. Another option would be to forget the OEM rotors and pads and just go aftermarket. Better rotors and pads will do a couple of things: provide better heat dissipation and provide better stopping (if you get decent stuff). The cool thing is that if you do it yourself, it will still be cheaper than dealer service (unless under warranty).

    The problems I've heard about Jeep rotors, ESPECIALLY the 1999-2004 WJ Grand Cherokees (which I owned), is that the calipers are designed in such a way that they don't allow for effective heat dissipation.

    A company called Vanco has marketed a braking solution for TJ's that I believe uses a Ford dual piston caliper that better dissipates the heat. but it also replaces the knuckle with a stronger design to stop flex under hard braking with larger tires, and uses a slightly bigger rotor. However, this kit is NOT cheap and really recommended for TJ's with larger tires (33's and up).

    So, I would recommend aftermarket rotors and pads and see what that gets you.

    -Paul
  • jeep05jeep05 Member Posts: 2
    Jeep dealership wants to charge me $98.00 for a new fog light housing unit when all I need is the light bulb cover, I live in San Diego California can anyone tell me where I can just buy the glass cover?
  • jeep05jeep05 Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 rear window leaks like a shieve, I am contacting an attorney to see if there is some CLASS ACTION LIABILTY HERE. I WILL KEEP YOU IN TOUCH.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I believe hella glass will fit also. May want to contact them about a replacement glass. If you are talking about the cover over the entire glass surface, check eBay for fog light covers.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Um, how do you figure it is a class action suit? I know several with 05 TJ's with both hard and soft tops. No issues with window seals leaking at all (Hard top) or moisture through the zippers on the soft top. My TJ is a 97 with soft top and it does not leak at all through the seals. I DO have a leak around the heater core, but I know what I need to do to fix that. $3.00 in parts will fix it.

    It is a 2005 and probably still under warranty, have you had them look at it?

    Soft top? Hard top? We talking about the rear window or the rear windows on the sides of the Jeep?

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    the only Jeep-related class action lawsuit that I am aware of is the exhaust-manifold one, and I don't know where that ever went, though I know some of us signed up for it here.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    in the center console, my shifter comes up and there's a rubber boot that slips over it and fits into the rectangular hole... when the weather's cold, and i shift, the boot pops out and flops around.... i know there should be a piece of trim or something around it to keep that from happening...

    any ideas?
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i've not had the problem with my wrangler yet, but i pull a 30 foot 5th wheel camper and my tow vehicle at that time had this rotor warp problem... i went thru several sets before a guy at a part place cued me in that it was the metallic type pads i was using... to hard for the rotors...

    i started using a different type and no more warped rotors... this was several years ago though... i've changed vehicles since... no problems yet with the new one...
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i wasn't thinking clearly last nite ;) since i didn't have to work today, we had a little party going on...

    i forgot and didn't explain myself well, the reason i mentioned pulling the 5th wheeler, was that the braking is pretty tuff, even with the electric brake system... and the added weight was heating up the pads and rotors, especially over mountains, even if i tried to take it easy and gear down...

    the metallic type brakes were just too hard on the rotors... once i changed to regulars, it went away...
  • jeepers9jeepers9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 24 valve 6cyl. from a 99 suzuki grand vitara. What changes would i have to make to put it in a 97 4cyl. wrangler?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Motor mounts
    Engine harness to work with dashes/emissions stuff
    Exhaust manifold
    Transmission
    driveshaft connections/yokes
    Possibly the transfer case
    Possibly rear axle to handle difference in torque (or at least modify the D35 there now).

    Probably more stuff, but you'd be better off going with an I6 4.0 from another Jeep or just going with a SBC (small block chevy) engine as those conversions are MUCH more common and easier to find documentation on.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    If you are really thinking of doing this the best thing to change is your mind.
  • dmdkdmdk Member Posts: 1
    I just installed a 4" Tuff Country lift kit on my 2000 Wrangler. This included the transfer case drop kit. After install, the manual transmission is tough to get and keep in gear (especially 2nd, 4th and reverse). Do I need to adjust the linkage? How?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    The t-case drop was to help eliminate vibrations from the rear driveshaft due to driveline angles. Did you try driving it before putting on the drop? You may not have needed it. I am of the opinion of why install a DROP kit when doing a LIFT? I had one on my TJ for a couple of months until I bought a JKS body lift and Motor mount lift. The body lift gave me some more room, but the motor lift help raise the front of the motor/tranny assembly so the driveline angles were flatter. I took the drop out. Runs great.

    As for why it is hard to shift, your t-case is now further away from your body, which changes the angles for the shift lever. Most likely your console cover is blocking it from doing a full shift. Think of it: when you shift your gear, the knob goes 'further' than the lower portions, but that same concept applies to the rest of the shift stick too. Since the pivot point of the shifter (the transmission itself) is lower, the net effect is that you are seemingly having to throw the shifter 'further' forward and something is getting in the way.

    You can adjust the linkage by getting a transmission linkage kit from an aftermarket manufacturer like Skyjacker and some others. Personally, I'd spend that $$ on the body and motor lift. You get more room for offroad clearances, you raise the oilpan up a bit to get it out of the rocks and such a bit, AND you solve your transmission issues.

    -Paul
  • wwaldronwwaldron Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my wrangler 2003 my dash and tailights are out every other light works great bought a headlight switch and put it in and nothing..
    I visually checked all the fuses they seem intact, can they be bad and not show it, how did you fix your problem ?? please help I use my Jeep for my main transportation and I work in the middle of nowhere

    Thanks anyone
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Many people seem to have problems with the rotors. Mine were bad when I drove my 06 off the lot and they replaced them two weeks later and said there was a bad batch...there are more posts about this issue.
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    Help! I have a 97 Wrangler with a 4.0L; I drive it every day and it runs great but every now and then (more often recently) the engine idles at about 2000 RMP. It starts fine and runs at a normal idle speed for a few minuets and then begins to run fast as long as the engine is warm it will idle fast when restarted. I have checked the throttle linkage and it is all free. Error codes are 12 and 43. Acceleration is good, holds an idle (whether fast or normal), and has a miss (I will change plugs and wires soon). Recent repairs include replacement of the O2 sensor (up stream) approx 6 months ago. Can you give some insight as to the problem. Thanks Tim
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'd check with a local auto parts store (ending with Zone) to have them check for any codes. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say your computer is reading the throttle sensor wrong (or it is bad). I had the opposite where it wouldn't idle well at all. It threw codes to point me to replacing the throttle position sensor. Yours MAY be erring in the other direction and going high.

    Have you offroaded it recently or gotten the engine area wet/soaked either through a huge puddle or cleaning the engine?

    -Paul
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    Recent off road- no, but some large puddles and I did wash the engine, but this is something that I have done before. This problem appeared during a "Dry Time" and does not appear to be related to getting something wet. Should I just replace the sensor or is there someplace else to start. Thanks Tim
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Tim,

    I'd start with Autozone and see if it is still throwing codes. They can analyze em and tell you what is up. Hopefully it'll point to a bad sensor and relieve your problems. It MAY be the Throttle Position sensor, but it could also be an O2 sensor. Bad sensors make these newer cars get all wacky.

    -Paul
  • bilbo3bilbo3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Wrangler and my brake lights and dash lights are out too. I have a blown fuse and replace the fuse but it immediately blows again. I wonder if it is the turn signal switch or rheostat. Not sure if rheostat is part of the turn signal switch or a separate component. I've found a turn signal switch for about $60 and thinking about buying. Have you found out anything?
  • maclairmaclair Member Posts: 1
    Dose anyone know how to or if you can take part the side view mirrors from a '98 Jeep Wrangler? I have them off my Jeep. I am having problems taking them part to repaint them. :confuse:
    MaClair
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