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what should I be looking for? are there any manuals on line that I can referance?
It's a common problem, at least up to '06. Air is directed around the HVAC unit by diverter doors which are controlled by vacuum actuators.
The issue here is with the defrost/panel door being in the wrong position. This could be caused by: a faulty actuator, a pinched or disconnected vacuum hose, a disconnection between the actuator and door, or a faulty door in that it could be stuck, broken or dislocated.
The actuators, doors, and their connections can be accessed on the side of the HVAC unit, which in turn can be reached from the drivers footwell.
Access to the Factory Workshop Manual is available at: alldatadiy.com
-Paul
Much appreciated :shades:
-Paul
If the timing chain is messed up you may have some bent valves or lifters. I did something similar on my Mazda 626 years ago and it never ran right again. Hopefully your issue is NOT the same.
May also want to verify your starter, battery, and alternator are up to snuff.
-Paul
As for alternators, my 97 has the original alternator with 113k miles on it and it does just fine.
Your other symptoms make me wonder if you have a loose connection somewhere. Your stereo should be wired in such a way as to NOT work with the keys out of the Jeep. Is it aftermarket? If so, I'd reconsider how you have it and any components (subs/amps) set up.
Mac may have some ideas...
-Paul
You sure the CPS was faulty and not reporting an actual problem? If the noise is continuing, I'd have it at least inspected to see what is up. The 2.5L is not an overly strong engine HP or torque-wise, so any problem that relates to the crankshaft and power generated should probably be addressed by somebody who can check that stuff.
-Paul
Sounds like a bad connection to me too, either power or ground, just as likely to be at the other end of the battery cables.
How many miles will an alternator last?
Somewhere between 1 and 200,000 miles!
Thanks, Mac! Mr. Heisenberg would be proud. :P
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Would he? I'm uncertain.
1. Is your Jeep lifted?
2. You running larger tires?
3. Verify alignment and tire balance is good, especially with larger tires.
4. Verify all linkages are tight:
Both ends of the tie rod.
Drag link ends.
etc
5. Verify that the knuckles and CV joints are still in good shape. If you jack up the jeep, you should be able to wiggle the tire just a TINY bit. If it wobbles when you grab top and bottom and move back forth (in and out). Joints may be worn.
-Paul
During the last Cali heat wave I was driving home with the AC on high, and my '05 Wrangler spewed coolant out the overflow and down the side of the vehicle. I never noticed the heat gauge going much above 210. It did this same thing last summer ('07) on a trip to Oregon going through a very hot Redding. At that time I got to Oregon and replaced the thermostat just in case. It hadn't done it since, but I hadn't been in a situation where I was running fast at freeway speeds, in high temp. (95 degrees or higher) and was running the AC on full. I found a TSB Bulletin # 1801404 on a google search - but can't get the website to come up that speaks to it. One last thing, when I got home and parked it continued to gurgle a bit in the radiator or hoses. Any help anyone can give me before I take it to the shop would be appreciated.
- clog in the system somewhere
- too much air causing bubbles to run fluid to overflow
- water pump going bad?
I'd recommend a good flush and inspection of the system.
-Paul
-Paul
Success! Thanks!
The engine is an auto 6 cyl and has just under 60K miles on it. The main problem is that it doesn't make the noise all of the time and doesn't seem to have a pattern to make it occur, so when it does happen due to the heat of the engine makes it hard to diagnose. The best I can describe the sound is a metallic tapping sound (kind of like if you were to put a thin piece of sheet metal against the spokes of a bike tire while it was spinning) that increases/decreases with acceleration/de-celeration. After the noise starts it will continue in all gears.
Thanks for any help.
The dust cover on your Jeep is between the engine and transmission. Should be an easy fix if it just involves tightening up th bolts.
My guess for the kind of noise that you describe would be that there is an issue with your torque converter. High pressure hydraulic fluid can have a metallic sound.
Good luck.
-Paul
p.s. MUD is s.p.f. for Jeeps
$53.00 or so at autozone and 10 minutes later you'll be on the road. Autozone or any good auto part store should be able to read the code and have it tell you what the issue is.
I messed mine up wheeling in mud. Died while driving 55mph on the highway back to the hotel --- WHILE CROSSING A BRIDGE! That was fun.
It could be the distributor too, so it would be worth a look see by opening it up and checking the points and such to ensure they are dry. If not, shoot some WD40 in there (after all it IS for water displacement) and try again. But if you are throwing codes, I'm willing to bet your TPS is shot.
I'd suggest some decent fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank and perhaps fill up at Chevron (or buy some Techron) just to help clean things out.
I'd also consider checking the plugs/wires to ensure they are working fine. Check the coloration on the plugs to determine if the engine is running lean or rich. I'd also check the air filter to ensure it is clean.
It SOUNDS to me like either bad gas or a few minor maintenance issues may be the culprit. Mine has never had that noise so I'm not too sure where to point ya?
Mac?????
-Paul
-Paul
I also had to be pulled out and when I came out I couldnt get the clutch to engage. After a 4 mile tow by my buddys jeep out of the woods I had it Towed to my mechanic. Thinking I had destroyed the clutch. My mechanic "also a jeep enthusiast" told me that I had somehow jammed enough mud into the slave cylinder to prevent it from engageing the clutch. He cleaned it and the jeep worked again. However my clutch still seems slugish and my check guages light keeps popping on. I plan to due a full fluid replacement oil, transmission fluid, radiator flush. Any advise on either problem would also be appreciated. P.S. this is a 2001 4 cylinder 5 speed. also any advise on how to prevent this from happening again.
If you do, you may want to extend your breather lines for differentials, transmission, and transfer case.
Also, do NOT shift while in that deep of mud. Disengaging the clutch lets the junk in, especially with a stock breather tube.
-Paul
I do...me...over here...
Oh, you wanted the actual figure? Ok, sorry too much coffee.....
It should be 49psi +/- 5psi constantly while running or ign on. WOT or idle, it should be the same. The amount of fuel getting to the pistons is controlled by the injectors, which in turn are controlled by the PCM.
If your pressure is less it could be a pump, filter, pressure regulator, or fuel line issue. If it's more, then it's the regulator.
Now, where are those donuts........... :shades:
Can someone please help.
Im Jeep Wrangler has had a misfiring problem since i had it. When the Jeep is cold it will misfirer and splutter until it the temp hits 100c, after that its normaly fine. I have had a full serivce and changed the heater sensor and thermistate changed. This has done nothing. I just got back from a garage and they couldnt work out what was wrong. The computer didnt come up with any problems so the only thing he could think of is the oxigen sensor. Will this help?
Can someone please help.
Many Thanks
Mike
Full service won't always do that stuff.
-Paul
I have removed the fuel tank and pump, cleaned the tank and re-installed the fuel pump, checked all of the injectors (which all read the same resistance +/- 10%). I have also replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs.
I was goning to play with the timing but it seems to be controlled electronicly.
I have found that my fuel presure should be arround 49 psi, can any one verify that for me.
Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
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I just fixed mine.Remove windshield wipers(push clip down and pull off).At least on my 98'.Remove the hood cowl on the outside near the windshield. You need two people to do this if you don't want to scratch your paint removing it.Seal inside around the vent box on the passengers side.Also seal along the weld all the way across and especially where it is spot welded.I missed one spot weld and I got 2" of water in during a storm.Seal the water drainage vent directly under the hood vent too.I used a good clear silicone to seal mine.Make sure you clean it really good first and dry it out.That will keep you dry.I have no leaks finally.