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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    With 35's, you WILL want to regear. Depending on engine and transmission, you may want to consider 4.88's. If you have the dana 35, you will want to reconsider strengthening it with alloy shafts (that have a higher spline count), or swap in a stronger axle.

    -Paul
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    This is an easy question. No answers?
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    They are fixing the Steering Shimmy tomorrow. It is still under warranty so no charge to me.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    600-750 sounds about right for my TJ. When it's cold, it idles around 750. As it warms up, idle goes down.

    I have 4.88's too and I can crawl down hills w/o using brakes at all. I also have 33" MT's. The issue that is the difference is the transmission's ratio. The manual's first gear is not geared the same as the first gear on the automatics, which would probably explain the descent down the hill is faster than you'd expect with 4.88's. I often have to GIVE it gas going down a hill. :)

    All that said, I have the 2.5L engine as well with stock t-case. Is it possible the IAC is misreading the idle speed?
    -Paul
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    I really would like to know more about your problem. I have a 2000, where oil pressure will drop to 10 on idle when warm. I am worried about burning up the tp end.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The figures on your gauge mean nothing, it's the analog equivalent of an idiot light.. The gauge is just giving a representation of the oil pressure; low at idle, higher as the RPM increase.

    If you really want to know the actual pressure then connect a mechanical gauge.
    A cheap ($20) kit like this will do virtually any vehicle and be fully accurate enough for diagnostic purposes.

    image

    O/P Gauge @ HF

    Why do you associate a perceived low oil pressure at idle with burning up the top end?
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    If I have low oil pressure, I am probably not delivering enough oil to keep the lifters, cam etc lubed, won't they eventually wear and freeze up. Am I worrying for nothing?

    I I disregard the oil pressure. What is the worst that can happen?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Your engine will seize.

    Nothing major.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Only worry when you have to. Oil pressure is much lower at idle than at higher RPM. It's also much lower when the oil is hot than when it's cold, and it's lower when the oil has been used for 3K miles compared to when it's just been changed.

    Use your gauges to establish a baseline for normal operation and don't get hung up on a particular figure. The time to worry is when a regular behavior changes.

    Finally, you could idle all day at 3-5psi without doing any damage as the engine is under the least load possible.
    If you want to worry about something, think of those soft metal crankshaft bearing shells that can be damaged by a careless fingernail, rather than the toughened and hardened valvetrain.
    Try not to let it keep you up at night though. ;)
  • jabonejabone Member Posts: 15
    tried searching for this, didn't see anything on them, 2 things:

    1) My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works. I can turn the knob and if I'm lucky the air will come out of the speficied vents. At worst, the knob kicks on the AC compressor, but not the fans - even in the off position. I can't tell you how many times I've been sitting at an intersection with the top off and hear the 'click' of the AC clutch and have to wiggle the knob. The dealer, of course, can't find anything wrong. What I've noticed is it appears to be a vacuum issues. This controls are whacked first thing in the morning or when the engine is straining - hills, etc.. Any thoughts other than hooking up a gauge, but I don't know what it takes to run the bellows? (06 Unlimited Ruby, 6 spd man)

    2) Looking for tips on cleaning the inside of the soft top. When I fold my top back, the sails that fold in rub against the outside of the top and end up with funk ground into them. When I close the top the inside ceiling now looks trashed and I can't seem to clean the dirt out.

    Thanks!!
  • jabonejabone Member Posts: 15
    As I started typing this I realized how old the original message was, but might as well finish -

    Indeed, clocksprings are responsible for this. I found out becuase my older 99 had a bikini top. To install the bikini top there had to be a channel added to the header. The channel had slots cut out for the full soft-top latches. Well, when it rains the channel turns into a gutter and dumps water right on the steering wheel. I learned to flip the visor town to deflect the water to the floor. :P
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works.

    Could be the switch which is a combined vacuum/electrical item, but it's worth checking the knob itself. They often crack and allow the knob to rotate freely while only intermittantly moving the shaft of the switch. Pull the knob from the shaft to inspect it.
    Very common problem with a very cheap fix! :)
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi
    Please see my message #1242 on this board. I think it may fix your problem #1. Good luck
    Tommy
  • dtkaczykdtkaczyk Member Posts: 3
    I have 1995 Wrangler. The blower only works on high. Where do I find the resistor pack and what else should I look for?

    I also need to replace the right speaker. Can I get at it by removing the glove box? I am hoping I don't have to remove the dash.

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • jabonejabone Member Posts: 15
    Bingo.. not sure how I couldn't find your original post by searching, guess I needed to be more generic.

    Thanks!!!
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    The heater controls are from the same pile of junk as the rest of the heater/AC crap.
    I have a 1947 Willys CJ2A with the original heater rheostat switch.
    The heater core has been rebuilt and the motor was replaced when I converted it to 12 volt, but all the heater wiring is still original.
    Weird huh.
    I have had the blower switch on my TJ replaced 6 times so far.
    Replaced the console once. Smoked the wiring twice.
    MoPar still mean buy MOre PARts every day.
  • mtnjackmtnjack Member Posts: 5
    Hello all,

    I have the same problem - P2096 message on the MIL on my 2005 inline 6 cyl. Unlimited - 46,000 miles. I went to AutoZone and two other auto parts stores today and they cannot find the "P2096" Code in their system.
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jack
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Range Fault

    From http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

    Um, cylinder #12 on an inline 6??? Something's whacky there!

    -Paul
  • kategauntkategaunt Member Posts: 1
    My 98 Wrangler Sahara has an ongoing intermittent problem with the engine coughing and loosing power as I am driving it along. It can drive fine for days then on another journey it coughs, clonks and looses power. It has been investigated by my local garage but they cannot find the fault. Its had new plugs, leads, IAC and TPS but its still playing up.

    In 2000 it had a new oxygen sensor fitted at the time it seemed to be having similar problems and this cured it (on an old invoice we got with the car) is this likely to have gone again and be causing this problem?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Fuel pump/filter/relay?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • alexblaine19alexblaine19 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Wrangler Sahara edition with a 3 inch suspension lift. Ever since the lift was put on 4wd low will not ngage i can pull the lever up as far as it will go and the light will come on but once i release it will go out and it will be in neutral. what do i need to do to fix this?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Suspension lift will not cause that problem generally. Did you do a body lift at the same time? If so, a motor lift would be good, OR you can get longer connectors so your transfer case linkages will reach.

    I believe Skyjackers makes a setup. I have a Tuffy console with more room to lift the cable, but I also did a body AND motor lift so the relative change is minor.

    Again, suspension lifts raise EVERYTHING, so unless your driveshafts are having issues, the suspension lift would not cause it.

    -Paul
  • jeepgrl62jeepgrl62 Member Posts: 2
    I believe the bearings are going out of my a/c compressor. I don't have the money to replace the compressor right now. How do I disconnect the compressor so that I can still drive?

    Than you for any advice.

    Shana
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The a/c compressor is effectively in two parts, the compressor itself and the belt driven pulley on the front. The pulley contains an electromagnetic clutch, so that unless an a/c setting is selected on the HVAC controls, the clutch will remain disengaged and the pulley will spin freely without turning the compressor.

    So, the short answer is never to select the a/c position on the controls.
    However, if for some reason you want to bypass the compressor completely you'll need a shorter serpentine belt. If I was doing that I'd start by checking out the belt and routing that's used on the non-a/c equipped '97 with whatever size engine you have. You should also disconnect the electrical connector for the a/c clutch (just follow the wires from the pulley).
  • jeepgrl62jeepgrl62 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the advice, although, it's possible the noise may not be coming from the a/c compressor at all. I'm lost. There is a whistling noise coming from somewhere. I thought it was the a/c compressor. Maybe it's not. How do I find out exactly where it is coming from without going to a repair shop?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I find it hard to imagine that any reputable repair shop will charge you for lifting the hood and telling you where the whistling noise is coming from.

    Most whistling noises track down to a vacuum leak, though it could also easily be a bearing.

    Take your life in your hands and try a local independent shop. Just ask what the noise might be and what it might cost to fix. If you're really doubtful, ask what they charge for a quick look and listen. I can almost guarantee it won't cost you more than a smile. :)
  • rolfcrolfc Member Posts: 1
    kategaunt, your problem describes exactly a resolved problem with my '97 sport. It turned out that there was play in the distributor (not the cap) The play affected the timing. For example, when I went up an incline at high speed and gear and hit a small bump the car would "cough" and loose power. I went to the dealer spent about $425 ($200 for the new distributor) and now it runs perfectly (knock on wood). - R
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Are we talking about an electronic whine in the speakers or a high pitched sucking sound? The only sucking sound mine makes is the gas tank draining when running uphill with 33's. :)

    A squeal is likely bearing or other rotational rub (axles perhaps). A high pitched whistle would indicate a vacuum leak like Mac said. There are a LOT of ways to interpret your 'noise'.

    An independent may be able to help and save you lotsa $$. The Jeep is NOT an overly complex vehicle to work on. Even *I* can do it!

    -Paul
  • thepudthepud Member Posts: 1
    about two weeks ago my wife hit a rather large water puddle on the road in her 2004 jeep wrangler. about ten minutes later the instrument panel dinged and the check gauges light was on. the oil pressure read low (L). since then it would happen when taking off after a short idle. i replaced the oil pump with no avail. any ideas?
  • bsbllyanbsbllyan Member Posts: 1
    Every time it rains, my car won't start. I replaced the battery and the starter recently. I know the battery works because the lights/radio/wipers all work fine. As soon as the sun drys the car, it starts and runs fine.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,142
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  • skratkaskratka Member Posts: 6
    me too.
    If i go through a puddle it takes out my starter. I replaced my first one and 3 months later i need to replace again.
    If i go through a puddle the starter goes.
    Its not like im driving driving through lakes and I thought jeeps can go anywhere?

    I have a 2door 2006 unlimited (long wheel base) manual.

    i love my jeep but this is troubling and expensive.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I've driven my 97 through mud holes a few feet deep, and other than frying my TPS once due to stupidity, I have had ZERO electrical issues.

    I suspect there is something elsewhere in the system that is causing the problem. You sure it isn't the PCM getting hosed and causing problems with the starter?

    There are documents out there to waterproof your electrical. While not necessary, it may be beneficial to look that kind of stuff over to help you look over your electrical to see if you find a weak link in your system. Personally, I'd be checking the wiring setup going into the PCM and the starter. Perhaps mac would have some input as well.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Perhaps mac would have some input as well.

    Only that the post, and the previous one it concurrs with, make no logical sense.
    Wranglers have design flaws that let water leak through the latest hardtops, sometimes through the rear window on previous model hardtops, and QC issues that sometimes allow water around poorly fitted door seals, heater seals, and windshield rubbers. A/C condensate drains have also been known to back up and dump water on the passenger floor.
    However, I know of no issues that prevent starting after a shower (even with a new battery and starter) as in the earlier post, and after driving through a puddle (and with a new starter) as in the last one.

    It's highly unlikely that the battery or either starter was at fault, and that there's more to this than has yet been explained.

    General rule..... throwing parts at a problem rarely benefits anyone except the parts supplier. A logical diagnosis and testing of suspect components should be the first step, even if you have to pay to have it done. Mostly however, you can take a battery, alternator, starter etc., to an auto parts store and have it tested free. You can even take the whole vehicle to AutoZone and have any computer trouble code read free.

    You did ask! ;)
  • skratkaskratka Member Posts: 6
    Thank you for the information.

    Upon further investigation the problem appears to be the clutch safety switch which my mechaninc has now removed for me. Apparently this can only be repaired by dealer??
    Now, in addition to this being unsafe for someone who may not be aware of the missing safety switch, my clutch "clicks" everytime it engages...

    Ive always had trouble finding a good mechanic but was told that if water gets into the starter it gunks up the starter components.
    One mechanic even told me to spray it with wd-40 after it gets wet.
    This sounds foolish to me since the starter looks to be one of the lowest points.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .......the problem appears to be the clutch safety switch which my mechaninc has now removed for me. Apparently this can only be repaired by dealer??

    The switch will probably have to be ordered from a dealer, but any competent mechanic can replace it.

    As for spraying the starter with WD40 every time it gets wet............. :surprise:
  • bioya2bioya2 Member Posts: 1
    Was headlights and taillights, digital lights working but not the dash cluster? This is what my 2004 Wrangler is doing. Need help, shop labor is $95. an hour. Hope to get an answer soon. Thanks, Bill
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    So it's still a problem...

    So what exactly IS working?

    So what exactly is NOT working?

    Your post is a bit confusing (or it's just early still).

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    They might have trouble finding any honestly Satisfied Wrangler Owners.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Not necessarily. Depends on what years we're talking about (YJ, TJ, and JK's are ALL Wranglers).

    -Paul
  • johmarjohmar Member Posts: 1
    I need to remove the blower motor on my 2002 Wrangler ,but can't seem to find the screws to remove them, it's underneath the glove compartment dash . Any help PLEASE
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No screws as it has a release tab. Disconnect the wiring harness, operate the release tab, then rotate the motor assembly counter clockwise and withdraw it from the HVAC unit. Reverse the process to install.

    Earlier models are bolted in and are removed from the engine side of the firewall after removing the battery.
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    I have a 06 Rubicon and it decided not to start after I got to work today. I have lights on the dashboard and I hear one click when I turn the ignition key after that I hear what sounds like something else trying to engage like maybe the solinoid. Another issue I see when I open the drivers door the speed and rpm gauges on the dash start to jump or pulse. I disconnected the battery and then reconnected it to see if it was just a loose connected and I also banged on the started but neither solved the problem. Any ideas what could be the problem?
  • bolden88bolden88 Member Posts: 4
    Sounds stupid, but it is time for my 04 to have a tune-up (actually WAY over due) but I cannot find the plugs and wirings. I try to find a repair manual but 04 info is tough to find. Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    On the 4.0L 6–cylinder engine the spark plugs are located below the coil rail assembly.

    (1) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.
    (2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
    (3) Inspect the spark plug condition to make sure they are burning/wearing properly.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Paul is quite correct, but I think you need a step by step article with pictures.

    The plugs are hidden under this coil rail:

    image

    and there's lots of pictures and instructions here:

    R & R Wrangler Coil Rail
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    My lowly 97 2.5L doesn't have no stinkin' rail. I have 4 wires and a distributor. Makes it easy. :)

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I have an 06 wrangler X and my clutch clicks when it engages but not all the time, more often when I first start driving. I thought it was due to some cheap plastic part.
  • rdavenportrdavenport Member Posts: 1
    i have an 02 wrangler with a 4.0,i had a light that came on on instrument panel that said check gauges,took it to be diagnosed at auto parts...said the alternator was bad,put a new one on..same problem....i also replaced the battery,checked and cleaned battery connections,still same problem...any ideas
  • rtroop84rtroop84 Member Posts: 2
    try oil pressure switch which is located almost right above the oil pump i think it has one maybe 2 wires coming from it costs about 30 bucks
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