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Comments
-Paul
I have 4.88's too and I can crawl down hills w/o using brakes at all. I also have 33" MT's. The issue that is the difference is the transmission's ratio. The manual's first gear is not geared the same as the first gear on the automatics, which would probably explain the descent down the hill is faster than you'd expect with 4.88's. I often have to GIVE it gas going down a hill.
All that said, I have the 2.5L engine as well with stock t-case. Is it possible the IAC is misreading the idle speed?
-Paul
If you really want to know the actual pressure then connect a mechanical gauge.
A cheap ($20) kit like this will do virtually any vehicle and be fully accurate enough for diagnostic purposes.
O/P Gauge @ HF
Why do you associate a perceived low oil pressure at idle with burning up the top end?
I I disregard the oil pressure. What is the worst that can happen?
Nothing major.
-Paul
Use your gauges to establish a baseline for normal operation and don't get hung up on a particular figure. The time to worry is when a regular behavior changes.
Finally, you could idle all day at 3-5psi without doing any damage as the engine is under the least load possible.
If you want to worry about something, think of those soft metal crankshaft bearing shells that can be damaged by a careless fingernail, rather than the toughened and hardened valvetrain.
Try not to let it keep you up at night though.
1) My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works. I can turn the knob and if I'm lucky the air will come out of the speficied vents. At worst, the knob kicks on the AC compressor, but not the fans - even in the off position. I can't tell you how many times I've been sitting at an intersection with the top off and hear the 'click' of the AC clutch and have to wiggle the knob. The dealer, of course, can't find anything wrong. What I've noticed is it appears to be a vacuum issues. This controls are whacked first thing in the morning or when the engine is straining - hills, etc.. Any thoughts other than hooking up a gauge, but I don't know what it takes to run the bellows? (06 Unlimited Ruby, 6 spd man)
2) Looking for tips on cleaning the inside of the soft top. When I fold my top back, the sails that fold in rub against the outside of the top and end up with funk ground into them. When I close the top the inside ceiling now looks trashed and I can't seem to clean the dirt out.
Thanks!!
Indeed, clocksprings are responsible for this. I found out becuase my older 99 had a bikini top. To install the bikini top there had to be a channel added to the header. The channel had slots cut out for the full soft-top latches. Well, when it rains the channel turns into a gutter and dumps water right on the steering wheel. I learned to flip the visor town to deflect the water to the floor. :P
Could be the switch which is a combined vacuum/electrical item, but it's worth checking the knob itself. They often crack and allow the knob to rotate freely while only intermittantly moving the shaft of the switch. Pull the knob from the shaft to inspect it.
Very common problem with a very cheap fix!
Please see my message #1242 on this board. I think it may fix your problem #1. Good luck
Tommy
I also need to replace the right speaker. Can I get at it by removing the glove box? I am hoping I don't have to remove the dash.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks!!!
I have a 1947 Willys CJ2A with the original heater rheostat switch.
The heater core has been rebuilt and the motor was replaced when I converted it to 12 volt, but all the heater wiring is still original.
Weird huh.
I have had the blower switch on my TJ replaced 6 times so far.
Replaced the console once. Smoked the wiring twice.
MoPar still mean buy MOre PARts every day.
I have the same problem - P2096 message on the MIL on my 2005 inline 6 cyl. Unlimited - 46,000 miles. I went to AutoZone and two other auto parts stores today and they cannot find the "P2096" Code in their system.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack
From http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
Um, cylinder #12 on an inline 6??? Something's whacky there!
-Paul
In 2000 it had a new oxygen sensor fitted at the time it seemed to be having similar problems and this cured it (on an old invoice we got with the car) is this likely to have gone again and be causing this problem?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I believe Skyjackers makes a setup. I have a Tuffy console with more room to lift the cable, but I also did a body AND motor lift so the relative change is minor.
Again, suspension lifts raise EVERYTHING, so unless your driveshafts are having issues, the suspension lift would not cause it.
-Paul
Than you for any advice.
Shana
So, the short answer is never to select the a/c position on the controls.
However, if for some reason you want to bypass the compressor completely you'll need a shorter serpentine belt. If I was doing that I'd start by checking out the belt and routing that's used on the non-a/c equipped '97 with whatever size engine you have. You should also disconnect the electrical connector for the a/c clutch (just follow the wires from the pulley).
Most whistling noises track down to a vacuum leak, though it could also easily be a bearing.
Take your life in your hands and try a local independent shop. Just ask what the noise might be and what it might cost to fix. If you're really doubtful, ask what they charge for a quick look and listen. I can almost guarantee it won't cost you more than a smile.
A squeal is likely bearing or other rotational rub (axles perhaps). A high pitched whistle would indicate a vacuum leak like Mac said. There are a LOT of ways to interpret your 'noise'.
An independent may be able to help and save you lotsa $$. The Jeep is NOT an overly complex vehicle to work on. Even *I* can do it!
-Paul
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If i go through a puddle it takes out my starter. I replaced my first one and 3 months later i need to replace again.
If i go through a puddle the starter goes.
Its not like im driving driving through lakes and I thought jeeps can go anywhere?
I have a 2door 2006 unlimited (long wheel base) manual.
i love my jeep but this is troubling and expensive.
I suspect there is something elsewhere in the system that is causing the problem. You sure it isn't the PCM getting hosed and causing problems with the starter?
There are documents out there to waterproof your electrical. While not necessary, it may be beneficial to look that kind of stuff over to help you look over your electrical to see if you find a weak link in your system. Personally, I'd be checking the wiring setup going into the PCM and the starter. Perhaps mac would have some input as well.
-Paul
Only that the post, and the previous one it concurrs with, make no logical sense.
Wranglers have design flaws that let water leak through the latest hardtops, sometimes through the rear window on previous model hardtops, and QC issues that sometimes allow water around poorly fitted door seals, heater seals, and windshield rubbers. A/C condensate drains have also been known to back up and dump water on the passenger floor.
However, I know of no issues that prevent starting after a shower (even with a new battery and starter) as in the earlier post, and after driving through a puddle (and with a new starter) as in the last one.
It's highly unlikely that the battery or either starter was at fault, and that there's more to this than has yet been explained.
General rule..... throwing parts at a problem rarely benefits anyone except the parts supplier. A logical diagnosis and testing of suspect components should be the first step, even if you have to pay to have it done. Mostly however, you can take a battery, alternator, starter etc., to an auto parts store and have it tested free. You can even take the whole vehicle to AutoZone and have any computer trouble code read free.
You did ask!
Upon further investigation the problem appears to be the clutch safety switch which my mechaninc has now removed for me. Apparently this can only be repaired by dealer??
Now, in addition to this being unsafe for someone who may not be aware of the missing safety switch, my clutch "clicks" everytime it engages...
Ive always had trouble finding a good mechanic but was told that if water gets into the starter it gunks up the starter components.
One mechanic even told me to spray it with wd-40 after it gets wet.
This sounds foolish to me since the starter looks to be one of the lowest points.
The switch will probably have to be ordered from a dealer, but any competent mechanic can replace it.
As for spraying the starter with WD40 every time it gets wet............. :surprise:
So what exactly IS working?
So what exactly is NOT working?
Your post is a bit confusing (or it's just early still).
-Paul
-Paul
Earlier models are bolted in and are removed from the engine side of the firewall after removing the battery.
(1) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.
(2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(3) Inspect the spark plug condition to make sure they are burning/wearing properly.
-Paul
The plugs are hidden under this coil rail:
and there's lots of pictures and instructions here:
R & R Wrangler Coil Rail
-Paul