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You may have to alter your wiring or swap parts to accomodate the coil rail ignition on the later engine.
Mac, any issues with the transmission? 97's have the Ax-5 manual or some kind of automatic. Not sure what the 2001's used.
-Paul
Both manual and automatic transmissions are the same for both the '97 and the '01, AX5 and 30RH.
The crankshaft and engine block are the same for both transmssions.
However, I was incorrect about the coil rail, as the '01 engine will have a distributor just like the '97.
If you're referring to the brake lights, then they too run independent of the ignition switch and should illuminate whenever the brake pedal is depressed.
If they come on at any time without the pedal being pressed, then the problem is most likely a faulty brake light switch.
Have your dealer read Chrysler technical bulletin number 2301006 dated Feb. 06. This is chrysler's fix for a steel door that leaks from weatherstrip at the a-pillar(windshield post). 2005 wranglers should use the same steel half-door.
Thanks!
The zips and Velcro are plastic so can't rust. As well as using a wax lubricant which you can get at dive/marine/camping stores (even Wal-Mart), using a tooth or nail brush and soapy water to regularly clean them will have the biggest effect.
Using the wax after a good cleaning will make future cleanings a lot easier.
-Paul
Not sure if the info at that link will help but others with older models have had problems.
You can replace the engine easily enough - you have options, but consider that you will also be needing to replace the transmission. The trannys in the 2.5 won't handle a 4.0 or a V8 w/o serious mods or problems (they WON'T handle the torque).
You'll also be swapping engine harnesses and such, so just be aware it is more than just a simple engine swap. You will need to relocate engine mounts at a minimum.
I have a 2.5L and 33" tires. But I regeared to 4.88 (I have a manual). It's still no barn burner, but I can travel most highways decently. I downshift less than I did with the 4.10's and 30" tires, but I still have to do it. I just don't get in a hurry. If I need to go fast, I shouldn't be in my Jeep. I had a BMW 6 Series for the go-fast.
If the Jeep is your only vehicle, you may be better off getting a slightly newer one with the 4.0 (perhaps an Unlimited - longer wheelbase) would be a good choice.
-Paul
That's exactly what the problem is. The 2.5 auto is a slug on the road to start with, but add larger diameter tires and it'll hardly be able to get out of it's own way.
You can change engine or gearing to improve matters. New axle gearing will be easier and cheaper but won't make it a sports car. A new engine will make a huge improvement to all round performance, but it's an expensive and complex (depending on your skills) option.
If you go that route it's actually easier to fit a 350 than it is a 4.0; strange but true. :surprise:
Second problem is more severe I fear. I noticed my heat, what little I get, was cool. I checked my antifreeze and was out. I do not see where it is leaking or anything, I do notice a hot smell when i've been driving and stopped coming from the vents. I was told it sounded like a manifold gasket leak. Can someone give me some answers on what they think it is?
As for the leak, do you still have a stock radiator? They are infamous for leaking at the top where the plastic meets metal. Again, an easy swap. But you may want to check your oil to see if it is cloudy (it'll either be fresh or dark, but it shouldn't be cloudy). If cloudy, you're leaking into the engine and that is bad juju.
I'd suspect the bad radiator first. If your TJ is old enough (ie older than 2004), I'd recommend a radiator flush as well being sure to get the heater core. My 97 has been flushed, but the heater core needs some attention. It takes a LONG time to get warm, though it eventually gets there, in the cab. I either have air in my lines or my heater core is gunked up and needs some cleaning/flushing. It's just too darn cold to do it right now.
-Paul
-Paul
Have you had your starter checked out?
-Paul
On another note.... THROWNED?
-Paul
-Paul
Thanks Eric
Although physically similar, the '97 uses slider controls for the HVAC and the '99 uses rotary ones, hence the difference in control connections.
You'll have to get the later style electrical harness, vacuum lines, blower control switch, and switch mounting panel.
I'd only add that I've seen DeoxIT recommended as a first-rate electrical contact cleaner. I plan to use it on my TJ's gauge plugs if/when they need cleaning again.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks again Eric