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The only time this happens is when I am on the highway, in 5th gear and not shifting.
If I am driving, shifting and changing speeds it does not happen.
Any ideas as to why this happens.
Thanks
-Paul
No codes.
An illumination of the MIL is a cause for concern. It means that there's a problem that could possibly affect driveability.
When the light comes on the PCM generates a code so that you can see what caused the light to come on. You do have codes, or at least one.
I'd place my money on a throttle sensor.
-Paul
We had talked about it being the throttle sensor.
This was the first time its happened in a while. I am going to check the code and dig into it this weekend.
Mike
-Paul
While many things could cause this, the bottom line is that the poor mpg and black smoke indicate it's running a very rich fuel/air mixture.
It could be as simple as a blocked air filter, or as complex as several bad sensors in combination with fuel system issues.
Take it to a competent professional shop.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
My 2.5 is no fuel sipper, but get more than 7 mpg. Even with armor and 33" tires.
-Paul
An O2 sensor can't be cleaned, just further damaged. Was it the one before or after the cat?
That said, I've got a new issue (ugh...) I'm getting a knock in the front axles when I go around most turns. For instance, if I turn left, it'll knock. When I straighten out or turn right, it'll knock. Nothing loud, just a noticeable knock. It also might be affecting performance at speed. I'm kind of getting a wobble, but I can't tell if it's the wind (it's been real windy here since this started).
CV joints?
Other things you can do are to make sure your water pump and other pulleys rotate freely so as to not create drag. Other options include an electric fan that doesn't rely on engine rotation to turn. If you want to dive into the engine you can do:
1. Upgraded Cam kit.
2. Heavier inertia ring
3. Turbo charge it.
I haven't tried 1-3 above, but what I've read on various jeep sites. I make no claim as to how much you gain from them.
I've also found with the 2.5, that mashing the floor to the pedal don't do squat! When I find myself doing that, I pull up on the pedal a bit until the 'pinging' in the engine stops. Same speed, just less gas being dumped in there. Found I'm going just as fast but with better mileage.
And here's my TJ today, to prove I'm on 33's.
-Paul
You don't have CV joints, but you do have UJs on the front half shafts and it could quite possibly be those.
Yes, but it will have more of an influence on acceleration than top speed.
However, you need to fix the mixture issue first. Not much point in making other changes until the engine is producing its best.
are the injectors leaking, cam shaft sensor bad. fuel pressure regulator clogged need help b4 i decide to let it go
Bill
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
-Paul
But I am NOT an electrical expert.
-Paul
Thank you for your help.
Cary
Several months ago, my Jeep sounded like it was tumbling rocks, thought it could be Catalytic Converter, never had it checked out as it finally stopped after a few weeks or so. However, now I have a new problem that just started, after the engine is warmed up, it will begin to sputter randomly at cruising speed, the tachometer will sometimes drop to zero, and check engine light blinks on for a second, then it will run fine for a little while longer. Now today, it has gotten so that it actually stalled on me twice for a split second while down shifting to 2nd to turn a corner. When I push clutch in and rev engine without turning ignition, it will come right back to life again....I believe it did pop once. Then it did it again right down the street.
Do you think this could be the Catalytic converter finally dieing and causing this, or do you think I may have an entirely different issue? Perhaps, ignition on the blink? We have not checked for a code as of yet with an OBD. Why? Because my husband is tired of working on my Jeep! So, I've resorted to asking some experts here on this site so that I have something intelligent to ask him to try next!
We've just replaced all plugs, cap, rotor and wires just yesterday to see if that would help. All of the above looked in good shape, not really needing to be replaced. No loose or frayed wires anywhere, battery and cables all good!
Quick side note; I have 37 inch tires, was having issues with ABS. Disabling the ABS system shouldn't have anything to do with this stalling issue correct?
Thank you in advance for any suggestions and help anyone can give. :shades:
05 JEEP WRANGLER
First, it would crank but not stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas. At the same time while driving, the battery gauge would shoot up to 19v and check gauge light would come on.
The only trouble code from the PCM was the o2 sensor. Changed that along with a recall on the catilitic converter. (Alternater/regulater was fine). Changed the battery as well.
Now it runs fine but battery gauge still shooting up to 19v every now and again.
I have had it to 2 different Mechanics and they can't make it shoot up and there are no trouble codes.
I have heard of a couple of people having the same issue although they sound unrelated, but have not heard out come.
Any ideas?
I just made an appointment with a local mechanic to have a diagnostic done because the engine light just came on. Before I hear what he has to say, I wanted to get your opinion.
For the past couple of months when I start my 2003 wrangler sport automatic v6 it makes this banging noise for a few seconds before it evens out.....then it drives fine. I didn't know if this is some type of misfire triggering the engine light.
The only other problem I've had recently that might have contributed to the engine light is my battery dying due to leaving my sirius radio on (old battery....needs to be replaced). When i jumped it a couple days ago i had to leave my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling. I finally let it stall out and started it right back up and it was fine.
Also, the Jeep dealer (they went out of business and i'm not gonna shed a tear because the mechanics were pushy and never did anything right!) said it was necessary to get a radiator flush for maintenance. At almost $300.00 I wanted to make sure I needed it before i did it. My jeep has 69,000 miles.
Help! I'm not mechanically inclined so some guidence would be great.
We did finally solve the issue with the Sputters and Stalls....for anyone else wondering, it ended up being a loose wire on the Crank Shaft Positioning Sensor. Fixed that and it runs like a champ once again!
I had a 93 Cherokee automatic, a few years ago back that would suddenly stall and not restart for about 10 minutes. Chrysler couldn't tell me why this was happening, even though my life was in serious danger, as it would randomly stall even in the middle of the freeway!! One lady was killed in her Cherokee on the freeway due to a stall like this.
This serious incident ended up being the Crank Shaft Positioning Sensor as well...Only a $100.00 part from the dealer!! Not worth one's life...very easy fix! For anyone else having similar problems...check it out.
For some reason, Neither one of my vehicles would not show a code for this problem on the OBDII. But once replaced, they both ran perfect!
So far not much drops of oil on the floor in my garage, but......
Thanks,
I just want to share this: JCWhitney sell Black 3" Diametar Side Step Rails a pair
for total 143.98. Price is to good to pass it up.
It would appear that the problem is connected in some way with whatever the transmission shop worked on as they fixed it, if only for a couple of months.
Go back to them and check what was actually done in detail.
Have you had your differentials (in the axles) and transfer case fluid changed any time recently?
Opening up the differentials may tell you if you have gear damage at the axle itself.
-Paul
-Paul
-Paul
There are a number of speedo gears available online. You need to check with the dealer for a gear that works with 33" tires and the gearing in your differential (likely 3.73).
-Paul
It's a 53.00 part or so and 10 minutes in the parking lot changing it out.
As for the poster above you, check codes as well before doing anything. Your ODBII port should hold any codes as well, so before doing the part swap boogie, see if the Jeep is telling you anything.
-Paul