Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

12467…37

Comments

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Anything out of the ordinary is worth investigating. In this case, if the hose is getting blocked it can lead to oil being pushed past the wheel bearing seals and contaminating the brakes.
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    do you think that this might fix the wobbling in the front end i have the same wobble that id metioned i have 35x12.50 around and i wouls love to FIX it
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You first need to determine if you have wheel balance problem, or if it's an oscillation caused by loose or worn steering and suspension components, or if it's being caused by a propshaft that's now out of alignment due to a lift.

    An oversized steering stabilizer won't help with the first or last, but may mask the symptoms of the second for a while.........until they wear further.
  • uboat27uboat27 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had trouble with their clutch push rod breaking? Mine snap with only 2052 miles on the jeep. The entire push rod is made of plastic and the service center swears this has never happen before. It has been at the dealer for almost for a week waiting on a back order clutch master cylinder. What is the earlier TJ clutch push rod made of, plastic or metal?
  • jpb9258jpb9258 Member Posts: 3
    I just got a 95 wrangler with the 4 cylinder engine. It was running well but always idled a little rough. It is a stick shift. Now when you go to accelerate it boughs down or flattens out won't pick up properly. Sometimes it gets so bad I have to pull off the road, loses power but does not stop running, wait and rev it up a little and it goes again. It looks like a new distributor cap was put on and probably new wires. I put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank but have not run it much for fear of getting stuck. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do. Thanks for any help. Joe
  • jpb9258jpb9258 Member Posts: 3
    I just cleaned the distributor cap and plugs and air horn and it is running worse missing like crazy can hardly get it down the block hopefully someone has an idea for me. 95 wranglet manual 2.5 liter 4 cylinder. It starts up fairly easily and normally though. Thanks for anyones help. Joe.
  • jpb9258jpb9258 Member Posts: 3
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Do remember that this a forum rather than a chat room. A response may take some time.

    It very much sounds like a fuel problem. First place to look would be a blocked fuel filter.
  • newbiejeepownenewbiejeepowne Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition. I bought it from a used dealer and therefore it did not come with an owner's manuel or anything like that. It's a soft top and I would like to know how to take the soft top off, but I can't seem to figure out by myself. Could someone with a Wrangler please tell me how to go about removing my soft top?? :confuse:
  • uboat27uboat27 Member Posts: 3
    I've discovered that if you own a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-Speed transmission you may be without a ride soon. I went back to the shop and confirmed the part was made of plastic. There are no replacement parts available in the United States with several on back order. The dealership will not make a temporary repair due to liability concerns. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website list 3 complaints to date. Unless the clutch master cylinder is replaced with an upgrade push rod the vehicle should be consider unreliable
  • txmdbtxmdb Member Posts: 1
    2005 Sahara manual transmission with front end "wobble" from approx 47-51 mph. Re-balanced tires and that did not correct. I was skeptical anyway since it only happens at this one speed. Drives great up to 45-47 and when driving >51 wobble stops and drives great again. Does not matter if in 4th or 5th gear. The faster I accelerate the less it seems to do this. Slow acceleration typically returns a fairly severe wobble. If I accelerate to 50 fast and don't get the wobble I can stay at 50 without "creating" the wobble. It's definitely in the front end, not the rear. Can't determine what side or both. Any clues before I continue to "chase" this problem spending money fixing what isn't broken?
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    I have rotated and re-balanced the tires so thats out, and everything under the front end is new as far as the suspention I really don't know it does have around 7"s or so on the lift so the propshaft thing sounds like a possibility. if you will read the post written the guy about the wobble in the front end it is EXACTLY THAT everything he is decribing is to the tee I'M Desperate
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    I have a TJ with a bestop on it it is easier to remove the side and rear windows, unlatch the top from the latches above sun visors, untuck the top from around the top lip above driver, and passengers windows, I find it easier to open tailgate fold the top back a little at a time and tuck into the back a little at a time to make it less visible when cruising
  • t26reddt26redd Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys I have a 97 4.0 Automatic and anytime i accelerate harder than usual i get a rattle from under the seats where the transmission is. Any suggestions as to what it might be before I get a dealership to look at it? Also what should it cost me to get front and rear pinion seals done?
  • zizaxzizax Member Posts: 2
    I am the lucky owner of said vehicle and one of the NHTSA complaintants. Jeep tells me they do not know when a replacement part will come available. My Jeep is sitting dead in their lot. Terrible decision on my part. But who would have believed they'd put a PLASTIC piece in such a critical control?! On the other hand, it appears that the part was possibly exposed to excessive stress due to the clutch cylinder's improper or weak mounting into the firewall. When my clutch went out, the cylinder was bobbling loosely in the hole. Neither circumstance leaves me feeling very warm and fuzzy about Jeep. Or NEW Jeep anyway. :lemon:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    In the rest of the world, US manufacturers have gained a reputation for 'improving' an already functioning product by seeing what they could remove or replace so that it doesn't quite explode when you use it.

    Of course this is a broad generalization, but it loks like in this case they went a little too far! :sick:
  • thaddenthadden Member Posts: 1
    just upgrades a rancho 4" lift kit on with with Comp springs with out spaces. When driving down a highway and shifting, vehicle seems to over steer, the rear end feels loose, almost feels like the jeep is torquing to the right.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Year, model, link to the lift kit you used? Have you re-centered the front and rear axles relative to the chassis? Have you had a re-alignment?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Hard to believe you wouldn't have those problems with a 7" lift! More details of the lift please.
  • uboat27uboat27 Member Posts: 3
    Any news on getting a replacement part from jeep? My jeep has been in the shop for 12 days and there are no available clutch cylinders in sight. Besides if the same part is used I beleive chance of it breaking again is high.

    Well at least I'm getting a lot of yard work done instead of running around off-road. :cry:

    On top of making payments (my first payment is due soon) I didn't "FALL" for the extra service contract and now I have to pay the rental car out of my pocket. :lemon:
  • zizaxzizax Member Posts: 2
    I am in the same boat, uboat! No end in site. Dealer says they do not know when the part will be available. One service guy said maybe DC was in the process of producing an improved part.

    If you want to use a joint effort to contact DC for an answer, email me at blueman2@earthlink.net.
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    I wished I knew more about it, it was already in place when i got the jeep and i have had it less than 3 weeks i can tell you that the springs, shocks, stabilizers, and everything is brand new under the front end, and it is all made by Rusty's off road it is stamped on everything. Today when I had the top, and doors off I watched the left front wheel when it started happening and it looked like the wheel was warped or something it was wobbling so bad, but as i said I have rotated and balanced the tires so i know it's not a problem with them but it is happening just like the 2005 sierra in the earlier post only at slower speeds it's happening at about 30 to 35 mph's and once it gets past 40mph in 3rd gear (manual btw)it is like a dream driving, unless you hit a hard bump then it might start it again at no matter what the speed, i had it happen the other day and i was doing about 60 but i had hit a hard bump in the road. And oddly enough it seems to happen a lot less frequent when i rev up 2nd to about 3500 or 4k rpm's before changing into 3rd, it seems if i change into 3rd at a lower rpm it happens a lot more frequent, real head scratcher here :mad: :confuse:
  • wilezcoyotewilezcoyote Member Posts: 8
    Does your jeep have abs brakes?, you may have gotten air trapped in the modulator. Does your red brake lamp stay on?,if so you have tripped the combination valve. How was the brake pedal feel before your husband decided to repair the brakes? Have you tried to blank off the flex lines to see if you can get a better pedal?,this would help to narrow down the cause of the problem, does your husband have a brake bleeder pressure ball ?
    The new master cylinder can be bled on the jeep, this takes 2 people to perform this task ,this should be your starting point..... :sick:
  • cgooding08cgooding08 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased my third Wrangler, a '99 with the 4.0L, automatic. It was used with 41,000 miles on it. I have two issues. Is there a kit for the drivers seat that can increase the room and allow it back further. I am 6'-3" and would love a little more room, no big deal if not. My other is the 4WD shifter seems to be loose and causes quite a rattle while driving. Is this a common problem that is easily fixed, or does this take fairly extensive work with the transmission?
  • cgooding08cgooding08 Member Posts: 2
    I just got my front and rear pinion seals replaced and it cost $200. I went to Goodyear Gemini to get it done. I have the same rattle that I just wrote a message about, mine comes from the 4wd shifter, they told me to take it to the dealer, but I am looking for advice too.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Check with Rustys, here,to see what you actually have. Assuming everything else to be correct i.e. suspension joints, bearings, fastenings etc., you may need to rotate the front axle to increase your caster angle. You won't be able to achieve factory specs, but you should get enough to solve the wobble.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The t/case shift lever and linkage is external to the transmission. Slide underneath and have a look to see what's loose.
  • neil8neil8 Member Posts: 1
    I had a condition were drive ability was to about 4000 rpm's and then it wouldn't go any farther. below 4000 seemed ok at the curb. All I noticed was my exhaust manifold had some serious cracks at welded points, I removed my exhaust manifold and had it welded up. In the process I had disconnected my battery and cleaned and charged it. After putting every thing back together I am unable to start. It cranks but doesn't seem to fire. Fuel pressure seems to be around 45 psi, I see spark at plugs. I checked codes from key switch method and received 12,42 &55. Seems that 12 is battery was disconnected from ecm, 42 Auto shut down relay ? ,55 end of codes. I hooked up a hand held scanning tool in hopes to clear them and that device tells me there are no codes? Rechecked with key method and all 3 come up. Not sure if I'm getting the right descriptions from my Haynes manual on the 42 code. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks Neil
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Early '97 TJs weren't fully OBDII compliant, which might explain why your scan tool couldn't pull the codes. I'm not familiar with the early '97 codes, but obviously a faulty shutdown relay will prevent starting.
  • salemnysalemny Member Posts: 2
    Hello I have a 89 jeep wrangler and it has a clunk noise in the back somewhere.sounds like the jeep is gonnabreak in half. It's not in the drivetrain I don't think it only does it when the jeep shifts weight or when you pull into a parking lot or driveway. I have put new shocks on it and can't find anything else wrong with it. the leaf spings seem ok.I don't see anything broke or loose the body mounts look ok .I can't figure it out. I need help.I don't even want to drive it like this. Sounds scary!! :confuse:
    please any advise you might have I would be greatfull..
    THANX
  • 96gc1owner96gc1owner Member Posts: 54
    Obviously I cannot be sure of the problem with this bit of info. If you are sure it is not the drivetrain, it could be the center bolt. The rear axle is centered on the leaf springs by a center pin or bolt. That pin or bolt may be broken. Loosen the u-bolts (four each side)that hold the axle to the rear springs enough to see between the u-bolt plate and the axle. You should see a pin or bolt head that resdies in a hole to keep the axle centered. If it is missing, you need to get a new one. If it is there, make sure it goes back in the hole when you tighten it back up.
  • 96gc1owner96gc1owner Member Posts: 54
    My guess is it is a bad track bar. Lots of info on this issue on the web. Recommend you search using the words "death wobble" as that is what most of us call it.

    The track bar is the fat bar under the front that goes from high on the driver's side frame to the axle on the passenger side. There should be no play when yanking on it by hand. It is easily replaced for about $150. Aftermarket adjustable ones are available if you have or plan to lift your Jeep.
  • stevedhenrystevedhenry Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 tj with a 4.0 5 spd. it has been down for about the last year. I went out to fix the probs today(completed) and the darn thing will not start. It cranks over but is not getting any fire. I have replaced the coil, wires, cap, and rotor,and all fuses are ok. Oh yeah and the battery also. I am pretty sure i am getting fuel I can smell it with cranking but no pressure in the rail. I am at my wits end with this thing. Is there an ecsm that can go bad? could it be the computer itself, or is it something simple I am missing?
    I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far. :confuse: :sick: :cry: :mad:
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I just bought a locking gas cap...gas prices being what they are etc. No instructions for removing the leather strap from the old gas cap. I am sure its easy..IF you know how. Any suggestions?
    TNKS

    P.S. And how to put it on the new locking gas cap.
  • 96gc1owner96gc1owner Member Posts: 54
    My mower would not start today. Once I dumped the 7 month old gas that I had added stabilizer too and replaced it with fresh gas, it fired right off. My neighbor showed me a trick took for checking spark. It goes in-line between the cap and plug. It lights up when juice goes through. Might look for one of those.
  • alifenchalifench Member Posts: 1
    hey guys
    i have a 2000 tj 4cyl, every time i slow down before stopping around 30-20mph car start raddling and a loud noise comes out, first i thought its my brakes, so i changed my brakes completly, but nothing changed, someone told me its my engine chocking going under 1200 rpm, so i put an AEM intake on which made a lot of difference in hp, but nothing changed with my noisy raddly stops, but last 2 3 days noise is less but when i change gear it sounds like veeeeeeeejjj, so now i think it might be my clutch, so pleaaaase let me know what u think before i have to sell my tv to buy a new part for my tj
    thanks :cry: :sick: :(
  • djd2djd2 Member Posts: 1
    Just acquired a 1960 Wrangler with 1982 body, 327 Chevy, I believe a Jeep 4 speed transmission. Stuck in reverse. Clutch is working. I have heard there is a bronze or copper bushing in trhe transmission that is worn and is no longer available. Can anyone help?
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    I'm so proud to say that after intensive research on the "Death Wobble" I found out that the most common #1 problem on everyone's solution lists on this problem was poor allignment, so I found a web page that in detail explains how to align the front end @ http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html and I am PROUD :D to say that I am a victim NO MORE of the DEATH WOBBLE :);)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm glad to hear you've fixed it. However, I suggest you have a specialist alignment shop do an accurate job for you. However, the DIY method is perfectly adequate to get a ballpark setting that's fine until you can get it done more accurately.

    As you apparently have a 7" lift I'd go with the following advice from the site you linked to:
    .......If you just installed a 2"-3" lift, that should be about all you need to do. However, if your lift is 4" or greater, you should seriously consider purchasing a set of adjustable control arms so that you can properly set your caster..
    Of course, that's assuming you don't have adjustable arms already.

    For the benefit of others, I should point out that a toe adjustment isn't usually a cure for 'death wobble', unless maybe the alignment is out by inches rather than fractions of an inch!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are several four speed Jeep transmissions out there. Irregardless of which one it is, the only way to be sure of a correct diagnosis is to remove and strip the transmission.
  • kootkoot Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 1998 Wrangler from the insurance after it had been flooded in a river. The radio displays a message "wait 2-hours" but nothing is happening. Do I need a code to make it operational again?
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I have an 06 Wrangler X. After a short drive when I walk by the front of my Jeep I hear a hissing sound coming from the front of the radiator. No sign of overheating, temp gauge says all is normal..just this little sound. It may be a "normal" sound but would like to hear from others.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Do you have a/c? If so, it's probably just the refrigerant condensing.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I have a/c but have not used it yet. I live in Ct. and its still cool here.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Ok, then assuming there's no coolant loss, it's probably the sound of coolant returning to the radiator from the expansion tank.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Thanks..Something I don't need to worry about.
  • isaac4isaac4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Wrangler Sport and am considering replacing the standard factory 15" wheels with a set of Rubicon Wheels. Does anyone know if this will work? I heard that the 2006 Rubicon Wheels will rub in tight turns unless a lift kit is installed. Will older Rubicon wheels work without a lift kit? Thanks.
  • lv8tdlv8td Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my brakes with low pressure. i replaced my pads and rotors, since i was ridding metal to metal. After replacing i lost pressure it takes a few secongds until i finaly stop. I took it for a test run stopping ever so often about 8 times to wear in the fiction pads. So far nothin, could it be air trapped in my modulator, my brake light is also on like u mentioned. How would i gop about fixing or repairing?
  • johnchongjohnchong Member Posts: 2
    this is off topic, but can you show me a picture of your tires and your sideview of your wrangler? i want to know what's a good size to get on my 03' sport. i have the 15" wheels, and i'm wondering what size tires to get. and the lift.
  • wetjeepwetjeep Member Posts: 1
    :cry: Well what an interesting topic! As you can tell by my name I have the same problem except fortunately mine is only coming out on the passenger side. Does anyone have a suggestion other than the cowl?

    Yesterday I pulled up the carpet of my 1997 Grand Cherokee and took out the passenger seats and we toweled up about an inch and a half of standing water in the floor boards. Then last night we had another storm and with the car parked it got another 1/2 inch of water in the floorboard -- luckily (LMAO) as if anything about water in your car is lucky -- the carpet is still up so the padding can dry but was looking to see if anyone had any suggestions besides the cowl?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles