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I've a 97 jeep wrangler 4.0 Sport with 61,000 miles. Firstly, my check engine light comes and goes off seemingly at will. After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas. Act like it doesn't know which gear it wants to be in. It is a manual drive so shouldn't be transmission right? Sometimes when it gets really bad it starts to buck/jump/pop like there's bad gas in the tank. Took it to friend of a friend mechanic and was told it was the clutch. The guy started it, rocked back and forth on the clutch and annouced after a few minutes it the clutch because the clutch was too 'high' Mechanic asked if i smelled burnt smell when problem happened. Sometimes i do. Took it to Advance Auto Parts and guy said may be oxygen sensor. He asked if i notice burnt smell also. Said sensor needs to be replaced at 60,000 miles. Help, any thoughts? I will take to another Advance Auto Parts to have codes read as this location had its roll out computer stolen..........
tsp, coil pack, plugs, ignition coil and coil sensor, oil change and filter, fuel additive,
now into it for 1000.00 and still the same problem as i said it sputters just here and there just a light sputter but very noticeable any other ideas as i said no check engine lights on and ran computer on it and tested pressures and all show dead on help me please
-Paul
If the engine revs increase but the Jeep doesn't accelerate then it's almost certain that the clutch is slipping.
If your check engine light comes on a code will be set in the computer. On a '97 you can check it without a code reader.
To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
•
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
•
The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
•
The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".
Post any codes here or look them up on Google.
I'm afraid there's no way to make a strong repair except to cut out the bottom (and maybe some of the sides if they're badly rusted) of the frame rail and weld in new metal complete with nuts for the cross-member bolts.
Most welding shops should be able to handle it as the area is easily accessible and the metal is thick enough to weld easily. Use new bolts with plenty of anti-seize.
This is not an uncommon problem with Wranglers, especially where salt is used on the roads. One of the first things I did with mine was to remove those bolts one at a time and anti-seize them. Ten years on and they still come out as if they were new.
I think it's interesting that you were given an OBDII code (Pxxxx) from a vehicle with an OBDI PCM.
Go back to the instructions in my previous post and pull up the code(s) yourself.
As explained there, the '97 returns two digit codes. Post here what you get.
Have you had the battery tested? Do you have something in your Jeep that is always on that could be a drain for it?
-Paul
jt
-Paul
99 Jeep TJ
TJ water pumps are about 35.00 at Adv Auto and a thermostat is under 10.00 (gasket is usually extra). if you replace the water pump, be sure to see if the impeller has an "R" on it for reverse flow... order accordingly!
If hoses are older replace them too.
-Paul
Probably replacing the unit is the easiest way to go. When I say replacement, I'm thinking the switches, not the motor itself. Perhaps Mac will jump in here and confirm or just laugh at me for being WAY off!
-Paul
While it could be a faulty switch, bad ground, or bad blower motor causing the resistor pack to burn out, the most common cause is water, damp crud or leaves settling on top of it.
The resistor sits at the bottom of the HVAC housing on the passenger side and if the Jeep is often parked under trees or the plenum drain is blocked (or a combination of the two), then moisture and debris can find its way into the housing.
A blocked condensate drain can also have the same effect, but the puddle on the passenger floor usually ensures it gets cleared before the resistor is affected.
jt
In the pic below, you can see the upper part of the radiator and the seam.
A GREAT writeup on replacing it can be found here:
Stu Olson's Radiator Replacement Writeup. This is a very good site with lots of photos to detail mods and repairs for the TJ.
-Paul
I've had great success here, hopefully it continues. My brake lights stopped working. I checked the fuses and the bulbs, they were all in good shape. All 3 break lights are out...left, right, and tire. My running lights work, as do my back up and turning lights. It seems to JUST be my brake lights. I went to the auto parts place to get a manual to help troubleshoot and they only had Haynes, which doesn't have electrical. Any help would be awesome. Also, does anyone know of a great Jeep manual for 2000 Wrangler??? I am having the worst luck finding one, but there are a million jeep nuts. This is my first Jeep, and I keep being told, "you will love it, but will learn how to fix it too". Thanks again and again.
You can access the Factory Service Manual for a year for around $27 at: AllData.
A couple weeks ago I started my car in the morning and reversed fine but when I put it in drive and pushed on the gas it felt like I was in neutral for a second then it jumped forward a little and all was fine. Over the past 2 weeks it has progressed from that to now when I first start it up it takes 5+ seconds to go forward and when I stop at traffic lights it bucks - like it is attempting to toss me out the window (it feels like it is just willy-nilly switching gears) - and while stopped the rpms go down and it kind of shudders - then when gas applied same neutral/rev/jerk motion as before. As of a couple days ago, it has started "slipping" into neutral on the highway and it does not feel like it has as much oomph when it does accelerate. My questions are:
1. Have I made it worse by continuing to drive it? / How quickly do I need to take it in?
2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?
Thanks so much,
Susan
2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?
1: Yes / ASAP.
2: An independent local transmission shop with a good reputation, i.e. not a major chain.
3: Absolutely not.
4: I would guess that the transmission hasn't had the regular service that it should, i.e. fluid and filter changes plus band adjustment at the appropriate intervals shown in your handbook.
You're welcome, and good luck!
( full tank for all three.. and one at time) .. I find its not as bad .. It seems to be worse when it sits for a while and i go to take off... The loss of power, very,very sluggish, and i hear the popping noises under the hood.. so i have to back off for a second, and then it will give me some power,. I also find at times when i tried to put the pedal to the metal the rpms go high then go down...I don't travel much to and from work and the mall.. So when i did go to the jeep dealer they said i need to drive it out of town for a little while... so i did it hasn't help... Im very frustrated and sad, i sooo love my jeep ... Im thinking my next step is to bring it to another mechanic to see if they have any suggestions.. Looking for some help and suggestions... Thank You... Tracy... My jeep is a 2004 jeep wrangler, automatic, 23,000 miles...
When i start my jeeper up in the mornings (after a night of sitting not running, i.e. engine is cold), i back out of my driveway, put it in drive to go on down the road, it lags a little bit before the gas really responds. the lag is about 1 second, but i can push on the gas and it wont really respond and then it will kick in.
granted it might not give it enough time to warm up and what not, but sometimes you gotta go when you gotta go.
its not really a problem because there are no real consequences that i can see, just wondering what it is or if it could really develop into something ugly.
thanks in advance
New clutch is good, but would the new limited slip transfer 'chase' be a case or a chain?
Either way could you give more details please as I haven't yet come across the limited slip version.
I haven't had a problem with it until now. Came out one evening to go to work, turned the key, it turned over but wouldn't start. I took it to Firestone and they diagnosed it as the computer going out. I then took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it as fuel pump module. So that's where I am now... Hopefully, I won't have anymore problems, but I'll keep ya'll updated. :sick:
I am in no way a mechanic, expert or anything of the kind. I just had a similar problem, researched it, worked with my mechanic and that's what solved the problem for me.
-Paul
Can you get a picture of the area where you think the moisture is getting in? When I looked at my passenger door, it was wet up towards the top, not down in the front corner where the 3 pieces come together, so I'm wondering if it is the same issue.
For now I just empty it out every so often.
-Paul
if anyone has any thing i should know it would be a great help thank you
Also, how do I replace this unit, if that works...I am not concerned about the airbag on the passendger side..after reading many posts.
Thanks for any input.
However, if you plan on getting back there behind the dash, it will NOT be as easy and you REALLY need a factory service manual to guide you.
-Paul
Perhaps the Idle arm controller. Perhaps you have a stuck throttle cable? If my hand throttle for my offroading gets stuck, it'll do that. I've also seen my gas pedal get stuck in the full down position while driving on occasion. Just have to tap it to get it to unstick. Mac, any suggestions on what may cause the gas pedal to stick down like that?
-Paul
I'd be surprised if you don't have any retained codes. Anyhow, I'd suspect either the TPS or IAT sensor, or the Idle Air Control.
However, before you start throwing parts and money at it, I'd try cleaning the throttle body if you haven't done it in a while.
Use a sensor safe throttle body cleaner, and don't forget the back and edges of the butterfly or the IAC passage.
The most common cause (on all vehicles) is a floormat catching the side of the pedal.
Other than that you just need to carefully examine the linkage from the pedal to the throttle body.
It helps to have someone else operate the throttle slowly while you observe.