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Comments
-Paul
It just hit 30k miles and needs new brakes/rotors. Two of the local Jeep/chrysler dealers want around $600 for parts and labor... After a lil research of my own I think I can do it all for around 200 dollars....Wondering what rotors/brakes you all might recommend. Along those same lines....
In the next 3 months or so I would like to give my jeep a lift as I want to increase my tires from 28 or 29's (cant remember atm) to 33's. After a bit of research Im wondering if going with a lift kit like the skyjacker 4'0/3'5 for about 500$ OR spending about 200$ more and going with OME kit would be better??
Guess im asking about the quality and rep of skyjacker....Ive heard a lot more things about OME stuff then i have skyjacker. Also i remember reading in one of these pages...that jeeps front brakes are a bit weak once larger tires have been fit...should I worry about that now...or save it for later? (upgrading the brake system that is)
thanks everyone!!
I'd stay away from Skyjacker personally. I've heard GREAT things about Rubicon Express, and I know of 3 on here personally that run OME - me, tsjay, and mac24. Great onroad ride and good offroad manners.
If you DO go with larger tires, your stock brakes are sufficient for 32's. At 33", it is getting questionable depending on how you drive. There is a company called Vanco that makes a dual piston setup for the Wranglers using other parts. It uses larger rotors, stronger steering knuckles, and quality pads/rotors. It is NOT cheap, but we ARE talking about safety here. You need to have some mechanical skills to do it and not be afraid to pull your axleshafts out of your TJ. But I have heard nothing but EXCELLENT reviews about it. I know the guy that developed it and he does NOT take any short cuts in his product development.
Vanco Big Brake Upgrade
When you go with a 3" lift of so, you want to consider how complete a kit is. Ideally to fit 33's, a 3" suspension lift and 1" body lift will work great. That is the setup I run and the size is just right for me both on and offroad. Additionally, consider:
- front/rear trackbars to recenter the axles.
- bumpstops to prevent too much up travel into your fenders
- adjustable control arms to keep axles in stock location vs shortening the wheelbase with a lift - these add a good chunk of change to a lift, but are well worth it for possible future mods.
- disconnectable sway bar links
I bought mine from DPG-offroad.com. Talk to Dirk. He'll help you with ANY detail questions about what is best for your rig. He has various 'kits' available based on what price point you can afford and how complete of a setup you want.
Another good vendor I've heard great things about is www.northridge4x4.com. Depending on where in the US you are, one may have better shipping.
Other manufacturers to consider:
1. Teraflex.
2. Rough Country's new X-series lifts.
3. Rusty's offroad.
2 and 3 I've heard mixed about, but Teraflex is supposed to be decent. OME or RE are the only kits in the 3" range that I'd consider. RE's kit is the 3.5" kit and not bad at all. Dirk and Northridge carry both.
-Paul
I have a 97 Wrangler with a 6 cyl. engine. When I first purchased it new at 3,000 miles the cam shaft got stuck; exhaust burned up all the censors; cracked the exhaust manifold; burned up the catalytic. Jeep opened the engine up and told me a pin got loose, a gear slipped not turning the camshaft and all the valves stayed open. The damage was caused by me trying to drive down from Vail on a Sunday morning.
Now at 120,000 miles I am having a problem were the engine will not stall but after 5 to 10 minutes I put the pedal down and there is no engine response. The car will not stall but it will not rev-up. It almost feels like it did 12 years ago at the 3,000 mile problem. No engine lights have come on this time. But, I am not keeping the engine on for long. If it is a camshaft problem can I get to it without taking the head off? Or could it be something else. Remember no lights are on and I have connected a computer reader and no codes.
What do you guys think?
Thank you
Yes, you have to remove the push rods and tappets first, then withdraw the camshaft from the front of the engine after removing the timing chain and sprockets.
A compression test, or better still a leakdown test, will diagnose a lack of compression.
Well fast forward to earlier this month. I have a friend with a detached garage, bender, and welder and all kinds of cutting tools. We went to work. Started with this:
Built a grille hoop and stinger combination with reinforcement bracing between them. Also strengthened the base...
Did a lot of bending:
Test fitting:
Welding:
Ended up with this:
it was a lot of fun and a lot of work. My son really enjoyed doing the heavy stuff and gave him some pride in building it.
I got new housings for the IPF lights since the lens housings were intact. They still worked. SWEET! Also picked up a second set of IPF lights to replace my Hella's on the windshield. They have the stoneguards to keep glare down.
Also purchased a new motor housing for the Warn and a bit of work on the cosmetic housing, and it is good as new - still works!
Here are the Hella's at night from the driver seat:
Way too much glare to use safely. I've got some other uses tentatively in mind for the Hella's as well as the OEM fog lights I removed. They are a bit bent up, but still work just fine.
This just illustrates how you can do some damage to your TJ, and with some work (or purchasing aftermarket kits) you can make it better than before. The fender and hood are being replaced this winter (I snagged a free hood, fender, and cowl for FREE - just needs paint), and my 97 TJ will be looking a LOT newer. Even snagged some newer style mirrors (I hope).
The cost of the parts and stick for the welding added up to about $40.00. A comparable kit from Genright and others can run easily $200 to $300. So I saved money by doing it myself and with my son and friend. I learned some more about doing this kind of work, and helped me build confidence in knowing I can do more repairs later if necessary. Amazing what putting some work into a vehicle will do for a child's appreciation of that vehicle.
-Paul
Appreciate your input.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
i've not had the problem on my '98 wrangler, but a couple of the vehicles i owned before were samurai's and there was a valve under the hood on the firewall that opened and closed via a cable connected to the inside control switch... this valved controlled the flow of fluid through the heater core, one way and it went thru, the other way, it bypassed it... i'd guess there is one on the wrangler, somewhere, but i've not looked for it...
all i had to do was WD40 it and work it by hand a few times, it got corroded up and stuck during the summer when it wasn't used, so i made it a point to move it back and forth once in a while, from then on...
here's a wrangler parts diagram that might help...
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/air-conditioning-heating/wrangler-tj.htm
i figure since the other controls in the wrangler work with vacuum, this probably does too, somehow...
it occurred to me... my cruise wasn't working, i rarely use it, but one of my routes allowed me to lock it down at freeway speeds once a week. i first began to notice a significant drop in AC fan speed when i accelerated or climbed a hill, then, the cruise stopped working as well, it would hold the speed for a few seconds then gradually slow down, reminded me of air going out of a baloon...
i was puzzled for several days then it dawned on me that the two had a common link... THE VACUUM!!! i searched around and found a cracked vacuum hose right beside the brake fluid reservoir... in a hurry, i wrapped electrical tape around it several times above and below the crack and over the crack, and its been a looonggg time now and i've no problem...
that could be a solution... i'm thinking water directional valve, vacuum controlled via controls on the dash, valve not working completely? maybe vacuum not strong enuff to open valve all the way...
there're several things i'd look at before i tore out the heater core... i've not done it on a wrangler, but i have on a couple of other vehicles, and it wasn't a picnic, but thats what i like about the wrangler, it appears to me, from what little i've done, to be fairly easy to get to stuff...
If the flow hose to the heater is hot and the return hose is much cooler, then it's highly likely that your twelve year old core has become seriously restricted.
Re the earlier reply, the '97 uses mechanical controls for the HVAC while later model years do use vacuum.
Thanks for the tip...saved me a lot of money.
-Paul
Another thing is it normal that the oil pressure gauge goes up / down with the RPM?
Remove the panel, seperate the connector, tweak each of the connector blades a few degrees so it will make a more positive contact when reinserted, inject a little dielectric grease into each connector socket, reassemble, and you should be good to go.
I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Both front seats slides to the front and back but both seats no longer "roll-over" to allow people to get in (and out of) the backseats. This problem occurred to the driver's seat first a few months ago and it occurred to the front passenger seat just yesterday.
I'm trying to get a sense of what the problem might be and how easy/difficult it is to get it fixed (by me or a repair shop).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I was a very easy fix, (do not remove the seat) under the seat you'll see the cable and and if you work the lever you'll see the cable trying to move the mechanism and you should see that when the lever is in its rest position there will be a bit of excess (stretched cable) between the stopper on the cable and the mechanism. Simply get a cable tie and zip it tight on this excess cable, just before the stopper.
I needed 2 cable ties on mine but it works perfectly and most probably a damn site cheaper and easier than replacing the whole cable
http://www.4x4xplor.com/seattrack.html
-Paul
Also, my windshield wipers have only one speed one speed- fast! even the timing switch doesnt work. easy fix??
The diverter door, which is operated by one of the slide levers on the heater control panel, isn't moving.
Check to see if the cable is seized or detached, or if the door is broken.
Also, my windshield wipers have only one speed one speed- fast! even the timing switch doesnt work.
Bad switch, bad motor, or a detached wire.
On the later models the blower motor is also controlled by a relay.
If it's not the relay that's at fault it could be the fuse that supplies it.
Make sure you actually check the fuses for continuity, don't just look at them.
The full circuit diagrams for the 2000 blower motor, relay fuses and switch are below.
Behind the glovebox on the HVAC housing.
99 Jeep Wrangler heater will not come on
Home office is on the west coast but the forum members (and the hosts) are all over North America ... and beyond. People post and comment on the CarSpace forums 24/7.
Everyone interested in Wranglers will see your questions. The discussions seem to be busiest during the work week and people don't post as much on weekends and holidays.
While waiting for responses, you can set up your CarSpace page (the My CarSpace link above) and post pics of your Jeep. Or just hang out and browse other posts.
And answers can come from anyone. If you track this discussion using the Watch this Discussion link, then you can pick up where you left off using the My Watched Items post. And you can have the system email you whenever a new post is made. Or just log on and click around.
Oh, the Help link is pretty good too. Enjoy.
Two questions first. One, does the blower work at all on any of the speeds?
Two, with the heater controls set to vent (i.e. face level only, no a/c), and the heat set to hot, can you feel warm air coming from the dash vents when travelling at speed?
Finally, and this is not a flame but just a request to make things easier for me, could you post as though you were writing a novel, rather than as if you were jotting down notes in shorthand?
first question--no; i have omhed all fuses& maxie fuses -clear
no blower at all.took blower out; went direct to battery;spins like a top.
2nd question--yes you feel warm air ;guessing off motor when driving at vents and defrost.
put in new fan speed switch;no help. getting 12 volts at selector switch;also no trash in duct at resistor(below fan).replaced it 6 months or longer ago.(no signs of overheating like old one) arrrh 185,000 miles rear end today ! GONING TO NEED MORE HELP HERE TOO.
dropped rear plate ;left, top, bottom spider gears chewed up .left rear made popping sound in left rear that made us look when leaving home this morning.all help greatly appreciate it.
Two possibilities, first is a bad ground at the blower, second is a break in the supply circuit.
Check the blower ground by temporarily adding a wire directly from the negative battery terminal.
Check the supply by first seeing if 12 volts are arriving at the switch, if not then check back towards the battery to find the break, otherwise check onward towards the blower until you find where it stops, Just check at each connector on the way.
In regard to the differential, the spider gears can be replaced if nothing else is damaged, but usually bits of gear tooth get between the ring an pinion and do irreparable damage.
You can rebuild the diff yourself, but it's not for the faint of heart.
-Paul
When I shift it into 4 wheel low or high and accellerate, I hear and feel a couple pops like a gear slipping. It feels like it is coming from right under the shifter. I dont leave it in four wheel because I do not want to cause damage. I have driven it in four wheel a lot and never had this happen.
I suspect something is up with the transfer case. When I look under (from the driver's side) I see a small tube with a metal flange on the end dangling there. It seems to come over the top of the transfer case from the passenger's side. Is it a vacuum tube or something?
It works fine in 2 wheel but who cares
Any help would be greatly appreciated.