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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I have smaller mats, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I'll check into that this weekend while we build a new bumper stinger/grille hoop setup.

    -Paul
  • osirisra32osirisra32 Member Posts: 2
    So I have a Jeep 2006 Golden Eagle Edition. Ive done a few things to it myself...and have been using Quadratec.com for the parts and custom rear bumper and all that.

    It just hit 30k miles and needs new brakes/rotors. Two of the local Jeep/chrysler dealers want around $600 for parts and labor... After a lil research of my own I think I can do it all for around 200 dollars....Wondering what rotors/brakes you all might recommend. Along those same lines....

    In the next 3 months or so I would like to give my jeep a lift as I want to increase my tires from 28 or 29's (cant remember atm) to 33's. After a bit of research Im wondering if going with a lift kit like the skyjacker 4'0/3'5 for about 500$ OR spending about 200$ more and going with OME kit would be better??

    Guess im asking about the quality and rep of skyjacker....Ive heard a lot more things about OME stuff then i have skyjacker. Also i remember reading in one of these pages...that jeeps front brakes are a bit weak once larger tires have been fit...should I worry about that now...or save it for later? (upgrading the brake system that is)

    thanks everyone!!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Go for a good set of EBC Green or Yellowstuff pads for the TJ. Rotors - just get a good quality set - not the cheapos, but a decent set. No need for crossdrilled or slotted.

    I'd stay away from Skyjacker personally. I've heard GREAT things about Rubicon Express, and I know of 3 on here personally that run OME - me, tsjay, and mac24. Great onroad ride and good offroad manners.

    If you DO go with larger tires, your stock brakes are sufficient for 32's. At 33", it is getting questionable depending on how you drive. There is a company called Vanco that makes a dual piston setup for the Wranglers using other parts. It uses larger rotors, stronger steering knuckles, and quality pads/rotors. It is NOT cheap, but we ARE talking about safety here. You need to have some mechanical skills to do it and not be afraid to pull your axleshafts out of your TJ. But I have heard nothing but EXCELLENT reviews about it. I know the guy that developed it and he does NOT take any short cuts in his product development.

    Vanco Big Brake Upgrade

    When you go with a 3" lift of so, you want to consider how complete a kit is. Ideally to fit 33's, a 3" suspension lift and 1" body lift will work great. That is the setup I run and the size is just right for me both on and offroad. Additionally, consider:

    - front/rear trackbars to recenter the axles.
    - bumpstops to prevent too much up travel into your fenders
    - adjustable control arms to keep axles in stock location vs shortening the wheelbase with a lift - these add a good chunk of change to a lift, but are well worth it for possible future mods.
    - disconnectable sway bar links

    I bought mine from DPG-offroad.com. Talk to Dirk. He'll help you with ANY detail questions about what is best for your rig. He has various 'kits' available based on what price point you can afford and how complete of a setup you want.

    Another good vendor I've heard great things about is www.northridge4x4.com. Depending on where in the US you are, one may have better shipping.

    Other manufacturers to consider:
    1. Teraflex.
    2. Rough Country's new X-series lifts.
    3. Rusty's offroad.

    2 and 3 I've heard mixed about, but Teraflex is supposed to be decent. OME or RE are the only kits in the 3" range that I'd consider. RE's kit is the 3.5" kit and not bad at all. Dirk and Northridge carry both.

    -Paul
  • herjeepifixherjeepifix Member Posts: 1
    my 97' staight 6 has lost all dash function no speedo, fuel, water temp, etc, plus no radio, or interior light. I checked all fuses both fuse panel and power distribution center.Has anyone got any ideas?
  • lfsgdlfsgd Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a nice 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Took it for a test drive a few different times before buying it. I've never owned a jeep, but was excited to finally get one. As soon as I was driving it home I noticed a noise coming from underneath. You can hear it when you first start it up, and then when i'm driving it I can hear it as well. Any ideas?? I thought maybe it was the exaust making noise, but it doesn't seem like that is the case. I'm hoping that its something small, because the last thing i want to do already is put a ton of money into it. Any ideas would be great.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    from my experiences, check your grounds... not saying thats the solution to your problem, but it was for me... a ground on a turn signal was my problem... but it didn't knock out all of the equipment you named... i still had fuel and water pumps...
  • bbok2bbbok2b Member Posts: 1
    Jeep Hesitating
    I have a 97 Wrangler with a 6 cyl. engine. When I first purchased it new at 3,000 miles the cam shaft got stuck; exhaust burned up all the censors; cracked the exhaust manifold; burned up the catalytic. Jeep opened the engine up and told me a pin got loose, a gear slipped not turning the camshaft and all the valves stayed open. The damage was caused by me trying to drive down from Vail on a Sunday morning.
    Now at 120,000 miles I am having a problem were the engine will not stall but after 5 to 10 minutes I put the pedal down and there is no engine response. The car will not stall but it will not rev-up. It almost feels like it did 12 years ago at the 3,000 mile problem. No engine lights have come on this time. But, I am not keeping the engine on for long. If it is a camshaft problem can I get to it without taking the head off? Or could it be something else. Remember no lights are on and I have connected a computer reader and no codes.
    What do you guys think?
    Thank you
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If it is a camshaft problem can I get to it without taking the head off?

    Yes, you have to remove the push rods and tappets first, then withdraw the camshaft from the front of the engine after removing the timing chain and sprockets.

    A compression test, or better still a leakdown test, will diagnose a lack of compression.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Well, I GUESS this is kind of a repair item. I was wheeling some time back and messed up my bumper when I rolled into another Jeep. Peeled back my light hoop into my winch, which subsequently bent the winch plate a tiny bit, cracked the winch outer and motor housing and bent my grill a bit too. Also cost me 2 IPF driving lights (ARGH).

    Well fast forward to earlier this month. I have a friend with a detached garage, bender, and welder and all kinds of cutting tools. We went to work. Started with this:

    image

    Built a grille hoop and stinger combination with reinforcement bracing between them. Also strengthened the base...

    image

    Did a lot of bending:

    image

    Test fitting:

    image

    image

    Welding:
    image

    Ended up with this:
    image

    image

    image

    it was a lot of fun and a lot of work. My son really enjoyed doing the heavy stuff and gave him some pride in building it.

    I got new housings for the IPF lights since the lens housings were intact. They still worked. :) SWEET! Also picked up a second set of IPF lights to replace my Hella's on the windshield. They have the stoneguards to keep glare down.

    Also purchased a new motor housing for the Warn and a bit of work on the cosmetic housing, and it is good as new - still works! :)

    Here are the Hella's at night from the driver seat:

    image

    image

    Way too much glare to use safely. I've got some other uses tentatively in mind for the Hella's as well as the OEM fog lights I removed. They are a bit bent up, but still work just fine.

    This just illustrates how you can do some damage to your TJ, and with some work (or purchasing aftermarket kits) you can make it better than before. The fender and hood are being replaced this winter (I snagged a free hood, fender, and cowl for FREE - just needs paint), and my 97 TJ will be looking a LOT newer. Even snagged some newer style mirrors (I hope).

    The cost of the parts and stick for the welding added up to about $40.00. A comparable kit from Genright and others can run easily $200 to $300. So I saved money by doing it myself and with my son and friend. I learned some more about doing this kind of work, and helped me build confidence in knowing I can do more repairs later if necessary. Amazing what putting some work into a vehicle will do for a child's appreciation of that vehicle.

    -Paul
  • kevin213kevin213 Member Posts: 1
    Your description of your surge problem is exactly what is happening to my Jeep Rubicon 2005. Please let me know if you figure it out. Thanks.
  • shaka04shaka04 Member Posts: 2
    Help! I have luke warm heat with the blower and heater control wide open. Temperture gauge shows normal. The top hose from the heater core to the water pump is hot; the other hose is only warm.I suspicion the heater core is bad but there could be a valve in the line blocking the coolant to the heater. I flushed the system and everything was very clean. Before I jump in to replacing the heater core does anyone have any suggestions?
    Appreciate your input.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Great write-up, and good work too!

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i'm by far, NO EXPERT... i'm known in my circle as severely mechanically challenged, but i've a few thoughts on your problem...

    i've not had the problem on my '98 wrangler, but a couple of the vehicles i owned before were samurai's and there was a valve under the hood on the firewall that opened and closed via a cable connected to the inside control switch... this valved controlled the flow of fluid through the heater core, one way and it went thru, the other way, it bypassed it... i'd guess there is one on the wrangler, somewhere, but i've not looked for it...

    all i had to do was WD40 it and work it by hand a few times, it got corroded up and stuck during the summer when it wasn't used, so i made it a point to move it back and forth once in a while, from then on...

    here's a wrangler parts diagram that might help...

    http://www.jeep4x4center.com/air-conditioning-heating/wrangler-tj.htm

    i figure since the other controls in the wrangler work with vacuum, this probably does too, somehow...

    it occurred to me... my cruise wasn't working, i rarely use it, but one of my routes allowed me to lock it down at freeway speeds once a week. i first began to notice a significant drop in AC fan speed when i accelerated or climbed a hill, then, the cruise stopped working as well, it would hold the speed for a few seconds then gradually slow down, reminded me of air going out of a baloon...

    i was puzzled for several days then it dawned on me that the two had a common link... THE VACUUM!!! i searched around and found a cracked vacuum hose right beside the brake fluid reservoir... in a hurry, i wrapped electrical tape around it several times above and below the crack and over the crack, and its been a looonggg time now and i've no problem...

    that could be a solution... i'm thinking water directional valve, vacuum controlled via controls on the dash, valve not working completely? maybe vacuum not strong enuff to open valve all the way...

    there're several things i'd look at before i tore out the heater core... i've not done it on a wrangler, but i have on a couple of other vehicles, and it wasn't a picnic, but thats what i like about the wrangler, it appears to me, from what little i've done, to be fairly easy to get to stuff...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There's no valve in the system, coolant circulates through the heater core all the time. Heat is either excluded from, or directed to, the interior by a blend door in the HVAC housing.

    If the flow hose to the heater is hot and the return hose is much cooler, then it's highly likely that your twelve year old core has become seriously restricted.

    Re the earlier reply, the '97 uses mechanical controls for the HVAC while later model years do use vacuum.
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    I had a 97 wrangler and I think the problem may be the clip that attaches the blend door actuator to the panel slider control. I dont remember exactly what the part looks like but as I recall it was a common problem with the 97-98 wranglers. I think i fixed it with a small Tyrap nylon cable tie. If you move the slider and feel little resistance with the control this is probably the problem. In 99 they redesigned the controls to the rotary type. My 05 wrangler has never had a problem with the "new" style controller Hope this helps.
  • shaka04shaka04 Member Posts: 2
    You were correct; the core was plugged. Good news is spliced into heater hose with garden hos adapter and flushed the [non-permissible content removed] out. Heater works great.
    Thanks for the tip...saved me a lot of money.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Always nice to hear a positive result! :)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    X2. I did that as well to fix mine, and subsequently found out my water pump was bad. :) Replaced it once I saw coolant pouring out of it. :) Also noticed the pulley was darn hard to turn by hand. New one spun easily. Engine actually strains less now. And my heater ROCKS!

    -Paul
  • sbp0102sbp0102 Member Posts: 2
    Hi ! today all my gauges went dead, but the jeep is starting and run fine. The airbag light is on too. Tried swopping cluster fuses with airbag fuses , no luck. Even the RPM/speed are zero! Any good suggestions??
    Another thing is it normal that the oil pressure gauge goes up / down with the RPM?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's probably the round multi-pin connector at the rear of the instrument panel.
    Remove the panel, seperate the connector, tweak each of the connector blades a few degrees so it will make a more positive contact when reinserted, inject a little dielectric grease into each connector socket, reassemble, and you should be good to go.
  • doplee1doplee1 Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Both front seats slides to the front and back but both seats no longer "roll-over" to allow people to get in (and out of) the backseats. This problem occurred to the driver's seat first a few months ago and it occurred to the front passenger seat just yesterday.

    I'm trying to get a sense of what the problem might be and how easy/difficult it is to get it fixed (by me or a repair shop).

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
  • vickyltvickylt Member Posts: 9
    Mine are doing the same thing and I can't figure it out either. Maybe someone will post something to help both of us out. Mine is a 99.
  • mark1981mark1981 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my drivers seat. I found that the cable had stretched, not allowing the mechanism under the seat to release (roll over)
    I was a very easy fix, (do not remove the seat) under the seat you'll see the cable and and if you work the lever you'll see the cable trying to move the mechanism and you should see that when the lever is in its rest position there will be a bit of excess (stretched cable) between the stopper on the cable and the mechanism. Simply get a cable tie and zip it tight on this excess cable, just before the stopper.
    I needed 2 cable ties on mine but it works perfectly and most probably a damn site cheaper and easier than replacing the whole cable
  • frylock287frylock287 Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem but i found out when i redid my seats that it wasn't a stretched cable it was actually a broken cable inside the cable houseing. Still haven't fixed it but on the passanger side if you reach under the seat you will fell and upside down U if you push it down and keep you head clear of the seat you can still get the seat to flip forward. This seems to be a running problem with newer jeeps mine and my brothers both had this happen.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Check this link for how to fix the seat issue.

    http://www.4x4xplor.com/seattrack.html

    -Paul
  • whocares6whocares6 Member Posts: 1
    You may want to check that the front wheel bearings are not loose. I had a chev 4x4 that would shimmy really bad when you are going just at the right speed and hit a bump or dip in the road. My 09 Jeep so far has no problem with this as of yet.
  • anv1190anv1190 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 97 wrangler 6cyl. Only the defrosters work. the 2 front over the radio dont work as well as the larger ones on the side. I have no clue as to where to even start looking. the heat works well out of the defrosters only. any suggestions??

    Also, my windshield wipers have only one speed one speed- fast! even the timing switch doesnt work. easy fix??
  • williefirewilliefire Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 TJ wrangler and trying to get my blower motor to work i have already replace the blower motor and blower motor resistor and check the fuse and i still dont blow is there anymore fuses or resistors that i need to check i put volt meter across the ends to motor and it just has like .003 volts on it and it dont change when i turn the switch im out of things to check PLEASE HELP :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    97 wrangler 6cyl. Only the defrosters work. the 2 front over the radio dont work as well as the larger ones on the side.

    The diverter door, which is operated by one of the slide levers on the heater control panel, isn't moving.
    Check to see if the cable is seized or detached, or if the door is broken.

    Also, my windshield wipers have only one speed one speed- fast! even the timing switch doesnt work.

    Bad switch, bad motor, or a detached wire.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2000 TJ wrangler and trying to get my blower motor to work........

    On the later models the blower motor is also controlled by a relay.
    If it's not the relay that's at fault it could be the fuse that supplies it.
    Make sure you actually check the fuses for continuity, don't just look at them.

    The full circuit diagrams for the 2000 blower motor, relay fuses and switch are below.

    image

    image
  • williefirewilliefire Member Posts: 5
    where is the relay located under the dashboard ???
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    where is the relay located under the dashboard ???

    Behind the glovebox on the HVAC housing.

    image
  • williefirewilliefire Member Posts: 5
    you said on later models does that include my jeep im not having any luck finding that blower motor relay checks fuses under dashboard THANKS :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The illustrations and circuit diagrams are taken from the TJ 2000 Factory Service Manual. The relay is below the level of the fuses.
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    i hope u get this mac24 .have sent other questions to car junkie ,but i don't know how to get back to find info left to me.resisitoor changed before.checked again no trash or burn marks. heater blower will not come on . omhed all fuses.fine,maxie fuses also.that square relay is same as serial ## as one in power box w/maxi fuses are.took blower motor out -put straight to battery spins like new. also replaced fan switch(new).still nothing! 12volts at all fan speed settings w/switch on . please help SOMEONE
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Here's the link to your thread on Edmunds Answers where Karjunkie was helping you out:

    99 Jeep Wrangler heater will not come on
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    i think you hit me up once ? i just need help ol'lady needs heat in jeep! I;ve read so much on this site since last trying to figure out ;i figured they closed it or something. i'll take any suggestions from any.i could never seem to get back to where i was asking questions before . it seems as if this is chat or something .seems easier to navigate to . don't leave me i'm going to try to look up what u give me . thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's all good - just post where you feel comfortable. Mac and the gang will take good care of you here. :-)
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    unless i click ur link i don't know how to get to where i ask karjunkie questions. his last post was dec 31? will others see the questions i've asked to-nite here;;relating to others forums ?by the way are you guys on the west coast--i'm in nc eastern time zone--thanks a bunch
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, there haven't been any follow-ups to your question over on the Edmunds Answers module since 12/31. You should get an email if someone else joins in that thread over there. Answers is more of a one shot deal - ask a question and get an answer. But ask a question here on the forums and the conversation can go on for months.

    Home office is on the west coast but the forum members (and the hosts) are all over North America ... and beyond. People post and comment on the CarSpace forums 24/7.

    Everyone interested in Wranglers will see your questions. The discussions seem to be busiest during the work week and people don't post as much on weekends and holidays.

    While waiting for responses, you can set up your CarSpace page (the My CarSpace link above) and post pics of your Jeep. Or just hang out and browse other posts. :)
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    thanks;tremendously ! ! i just got to get that heat in her jeep or i'll be sleeping w/our bloodhounds--for real ! so i can say come back to say entry #1690 tommorrow and start from there ? also how do you go straight to certain individuals that seem to know more about certain models-makes .can you actually swap info to e-mail or phone. lots of interesting topics on here --i've read & read----thanks again
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    No phone numbers please, and emailing each other would defeat the purpose of an online community. You're not the only person to lose their Jeep heat and others benefit from reading the online posts.

    And answers can come from anyone. If you track this discussion using the Watch this Discussion link, then you can pick up where you left off using the My Watched Items post. And you can have the system email you whenever a new post is made. Or just log on and click around.

    Oh, the Help link is pretty good too. Enjoy. :)
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    anyone on today to help me w/heater problem ?? saw old post of a recall issue. all i got from this is to open up wirining harnness and start tracing the ground. no replacement harnness .
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'll take a shot at it if you like.

    Two questions first. One, does the blower work at all on any of the speeds?
    Two, with the heater controls set to vent (i.e. face level only, no a/c), and the heat set to hot, can you feel warm air coming from the dash vents when travelling at speed?

    Finally, and this is not a flame but just a request to make things easier for me, could you post as though you were writing a novel, rather than as if you were jotting down notes in shorthand? :)
  • tinakattinakat Member Posts: 6
    haven't checked here lately;thanks for responding.

    first question--no; i have omhed all fuses& maxie fuses -clear
    no blower at all.took blower out; went direct to battery;spins like a top.

    2nd question--yes you feel warm air ;guessing off motor when driving at vents and defrost.

    put in new fan speed switch;no help. getting 12 volts at selector switch;also no trash in duct at resistor(below fan).replaced it 6 months or longer ago.(no signs of overheating like old one) arrrh 185,000 miles rear end today ! GONING TO NEED MORE HELP HERE TOO.

    dropped rear plate ;left, top, bottom spider gears chewed up .left rear made popping sound in left rear that made us look when leaving home this morning.all help greatly appreciate it.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Ok, you've established that blower motor works and that the switch is new, and that the fuses are good.
    Two possibilities, first is a bad ground at the blower, second is a break in the supply circuit.
    Check the blower ground by temporarily adding a wire directly from the negative battery terminal.
    Check the supply by first seeing if 12 volts are arriving at the switch, if not then check back towards the battery to find the break, otherwise check onward towards the blower until you find where it stops, Just check at each connector on the way.

    In regard to the differential, the spider gears can be replaced if nothing else is damaged, but usually bits of gear tooth get between the ring an pinion and do irreparable damage.
    You can rebuild the diff yourself, but it's not for the faint of heart.
  • ibwowd2ibwowd2 Member Posts: 2
    I used to have a 95 wrangler with the same engine and same size tires and I was lucky if I could go 80 on the straight way on the freeway. If there was a slight incline I too had to shift down or just slow down but it was really bad. I now have a 92 Jeep Wrangler, same size tires but the 4.0 and it is not as bad. I was told to change out the gears on my 95. Just letting you know.
  • ibwowd2ibwowd2 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 92 Jeep Wrangler and am hearing a lot of noise in the suspension when going in and out of drive ways or large bumps. It is so loud I am embarrassed to drive it. Could it be the bushings or leaf springs? I have sprayed stuff on the bushings and have tried to stand on the bumper to hear where the noise is coming from but I cannot tell. What kind of repair shop would be the best to check this out without charging me an arm and a leg for checking it out?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Shocks, springs, or leaves would be the first places to look. I had a problem on my 97, but it turned out to be the shackles I had attached to my bumper. :)

    -Paul
  • artrogersartrogers Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    I have a 2006 Rubicon.

    When I shift it into 4 wheel low or high and accellerate, I hear and feel a couple pops like a gear slipping. It feels like it is coming from right under the shifter. I dont leave it in four wheel because I do not want to cause damage. I have driven it in four wheel a lot and never had this happen.

    I suspect something is up with the transfer case. When I look under (from the driver's side) I see a small tube with a metal flange on the end dangling there. It seems to come over the top of the transfer case from the passenger's side. Is it a vacuum tube or something?

    It works fine in 2 wheel but who cares :(

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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