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The bigger issue seems to be whether you use tier 1 or tier 2 gasoline. Tier 2 can cause damage that won't be covered, such as sticking valves.
Google "Top Tier Gas" for more information.
In our area we have only two plants that provide gas for all of the stations in the San Francisco Bay area stations. How would one know if the gas from these plants have the necessary additives to qualify. Would one assume that additives are added in the respective delivery trucks?
Would the Chevron additive "Techtron" qualify the gasoline when it is added to the gasoline.
Since "Top Tier" gas is not universally available across the US and there is no way of knowing which gas meets the standards I would think GM and others would have a tought time not honoring the warranty.
Also the new legislation that allows up to 15% alcohol would not meet the requirement of 10% maximum.
It would seem difficult for GM to deny warranty and truly wonder why they did not make this vehicle E85 capable.
All Chevron gasoline contains some Techron and they are listed as top tier. It might help in other brands not meeting specification but because of the other top tier requirements it might not qualify as meeting them.
I assume this is because of the 19" wheels which would have less air (but same pressure) as the smaller wheels. The smaller wheels with wide side walls may absorb more bumps. With the 19" you hit a bump and the air is forced out some place. Does this make sense to others. Does anyone else have this same experience. Never had this problem in the smaller wheels on other cars.
When You think about it and compare mileage driven and decrease in tire pressure it would mean that it looses about a lb. of pressure every thousand miles. For me this would be every 2 to 4 weeks. Not acceptable.
Could one use one of the tire stop leaks to seal things - what would this do to the air pressure system.
I think most tires now have a liner that is to the inside of the tread as an extra precaution to keep from getting air between the carcass and the tread. So your major areas of seepage would have to be the sidewall or bead of tire.
Some tires seem to be much worse than others at losing air.
My last set of new were Khumo Ecsta P235R60/16 and were excellent on Aurora until they got about 4 years old. Rubber was starting to harden and as to air, only added in the fall as temperatures started falling, that is a colder cold inflation temperature.
Although I've seen no reviews for these tires on our vehicle, I'm leaning toward a Continental or Michelin.
I've read a couple of reviews about the RSA on our vehicle. I'm suspicious of the latest review because of timing which did nothing but rave about this tire. The other one rated it as worst tire he ever owned and would not put a free set on anything.
On the other hand, switching to nitrogen might be a better solution to regular air. In my Avalon I used nitrogen and I never had to worry about tire pressure again.
That probably was more a result of the tire brand and construction quality than of the gas inside the tire.
80% of your air now is nitrogen. How is adding another 10% perhaps going to change the permeability factor of the tire carcass? The nitrogen game is a scam to make money. DO some searching online for the machines they sell to the shops that generate, supposedly, a higher nitrogen mixture from normal air for the shop to put into your tire and charge you for it. The ads are based on how much profit the shop can make from making you feel nitrogen in your tire is meaningful.
CR did a study years back of tires and air loss. They stored tires and monitored pressures. The Michelin X-One had the lowest loss of any tire.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On the C5 and G35 they are noticably quieter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26zmv7qG9CQ&feature=related
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Will GM be dropping the 3.9 when the end of Lucerne and Impala occurs? I would have looked more closely at Lucerne if it had the 6 speed which should have helped city MPG significantly and highway some. Also of concern was that 2010 was supposed to be the last of Impala and Lucerne. And they cut option list tremendously on both models.
Word is that Buick will bring a Park Avenue on board and the Impala reinvented around the super Epsilon chassis but that is not slated until at least 2015. That is a long way off and I have to wonder if they will keep building but strip more options.
For 2010, the 3.6L was available in Impala and better mileage than 3.9. But to get the most options, you had to go with top model which only came with 3.9L. Go figure?
It definitely makes me wonder why Buick did not offer 3.6 in Lucerne?
On the good side is that propane is a much larger molecule and if you blew balloons up with helium, air, & propane, the propane would stay inflated longest.
Seems to be more marketing and pricing driven than engineering or performance to this limited view individual with no inside track. The 3.0L with the new 6-speed is great in the 2010 Lacrosse and all reports are the 3.6L is more responsive with more bore size, higher tuning requiring premium fuel like Cadillac, and resulting in faster vehicle for higher priced models and targeted customers with more $ to spend
Rainman, I don't know about you but many buyers cross-shopped the Avalon with the Lacrosse. The 2011 Avalon is a worthy competitor when it comes to ride, sophistication and handling but the exterior styling is too bland...and conveys too much of a granda image. The 2000 - 2004 Avalon XLS (generation 2) was the best Avalon and closest to a Buick, and by extension, the new Lacrosse.
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2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
When I bought, I needed a USA/UAW made (VIN# startinging with a "1"0 car and looked at Ford Taurus. Had to reject and US makes manufactured in Mexico etc. Defineltly no Japanese makes. I transfered/sold a lease on a Mercedes E350.
BTW, if you have HUD, the little covy hole next to the pull open does not exist.
I test drove one, maybe CXL fairly loaded, and it just did not get when I put my foot in. At the time I thought it had less acceleration than Malibu with 4 cylinder. But then that might have just been perception. Anyway it matched what many have said but then I just don't get it. If 3.0 & 3.6 have same stroke, just different bore, then torque should be proportional. Maybe you got one that was intended for Cadillac? Or maybe the one I drove was just doggy.
My experience of driving Malibu Ecotec with 4 speed and 6 speed trannys was like having a very different engine. So, after driving Impala with 3.6 and 4 speed I expected 3.0L with 6 speed to be quite comparable. Not so. And the 3.6 will fly, have you checking speedometer if you put foot in it because you'll end up much faster than you realize. 101 is not an interstate, yet.
I have followed the instructions in the Lacrosse manual (as well as online) but I cannot get Homelink to work. What am I doing wrong?
I have a Genie garage door opener with the so-called rolling code and a two-button remote. I believe the opener was manufactured in 2006 but I’ve never been able to get it to work with my former car and now the Lacrosse. I’ve tried everything but the result is always the same. The garage door stays mum. Even my son-in-law an engineer and tech savvy could do no better.
Bloggers any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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They have programming help and they have FAQs. I assume they have contact by email for phone where you could give your model for Genie along with your car model for additional help.
Homelink:
Process: Program a garage door
Vehicle: 2011 Buick LaCrosse
HomeLink® Location: Visor
Door Opener: Genie CAUTION!
Before programming HomeLink® to a garage door opener or gate operator, make sure that people and objects are out of the way of the device to prevent potential harm or damage. Your motorized garage door or gate will open and close while you are programming HomeLink®. Do not program HomeLink® if people or pets are in the path of the door or gate. A moving garage door or gate can cause serious injury or death to people and pets or damage to objects.
Vehicle exhaust contains carbon monoxide, a dangerous gas. Do not run the vehicle's engine while programming HomeLink®. Exhaust gas can cause serious injury or death. When programming a garage door opener, it is advised to park outside of the garage.
Do not use HomeLink® with any garage door opener that lacks safety stop and reverse features as required by U.S. federal safety standards (this includes any garage door opener model manufactured before April 1, 1982). A garage door that cannot detect an object signaling the door to stop and reverse - does not meet current U.S. federal safety standards.
If programming a garage door opener or gate, it is advised to unplug the device during the HomeLink® programming and also if performing the "cycling" process to prevent possible motor burn-up.
NOTE: Some vehicles may require the ignition to be turned on or to the second (or “accessory” or ACC) position for training and/or operation of HomeLink®. It is also recommended that a new battery be replaced in the hand held transmitter of the device being trained to HomeLink® for quicker training and accurate transmission of the radio frequency.
For first time training, press and hold the two outer HomeLink® buttons, releasing only when the HomeLink® indicator light begins to flash after 20 seconds. (Do not perform this step when training the additional HomeLink® buttons.)
Position the hand-held transmitter 1-3 inches away from the HomeLink® surface (located on your visor), keeping the HomeLink® indicator light in view.
Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the desired HomeLink® button and hand held transmitter button. DO NOT release until the HomeLink® indicator light flashes slowly and then rapidly. When the indicator light flashes rapidly, both buttons may be released. (The rapid flashing indicates successful training.)
Note: Some garage door openers may require you to replace step 3 with the “cycling” procedure noted in the “View Canadian Instructions” section.
Press and hold the trained HomeLink® button and observe the indicator light.
If the indicator light is solid/continuous, training is complete and your device should activate when the HomeLink® button is pressed and released.
If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns a solid/continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device. A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device. Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps.
At the garage door opener receiver (motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the “learn” or “smart” button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener’s manual or contact us.
Press and release the “learn” or “smart” button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer). NOTE: Once the button is pressed, there are 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.
Return to the vehicle and firmly press and hold the trained HomeLink® button for two seconds and release. Repeat the “press/hold/release” sequence up to 3 times to complete the training process.
Retain the original hand-held transmitter of the RF device you are programming for use in other
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Very similar routine to setting up the code on a wireless remote unit to the opener.
The opener has to learn, or pair with the sending device. good luck.
We have tried midgrade and premium in 2010 CXL with 3.0L and the mileage approves marginally with midgrade that offsets the minor cost increase. The top tier fuel advice posted by others is what has really worked for us. The Shell, Exxon and Chevron seem to work best in this and previous GM models, with max mileage and smoother idle and performance. These new engines are great but VERY expensive to repair and service so using inferior fuels is a fools game IMO.
Try Shell midgrade and see what you experience in the 3.6L and let us know.
The new Cadillac SRX and some of the later CTS models have the 3.0/3.6 choice. Methinks the marketing boys wanted V-6's in the Caddys and I-4 in Chevy and lower end Buicks with 3.6 going to higher cost models where drivers are more indifferent to requirement for high test fuels. As we age we have lost the desire to dragrace the other buick drivers HA!
We hope the LT durability hangs in there like the old 3.8L V-6 and 327/350/400 CI GM engines of old that made GM the car we wanted. Enjoy the new car!
The figures shown make me wonder if GM has done another dirty deal with EPA as they did a few years back when making a truck ethanol capable.
2010 shows combined mileage for: 2.4L = 23MPG, 3.0L = 20MPG & 19MPG with AWD, 3.6L = 21MPG
2011 the 3.0L is not shown: 2.4L =23MPG, no difference for AWD, 3.6L = 20MPG.
I have to wonder if these were taken accurately from the EPA or their dart board.
I tried that before and without success. I even went as far as to watch a couple videos but the result is still the same, nada. I will keep on trying though.
So I turn the heat on (raising temp and vent), did not see air coming out from normal air vents, but from two air vents on dash board.
Is that what you are seeing or something wrong with mine?
When you say "set the DIC on mileage and ...reset", do you mean reset the avg mpg (which I've done before) or the odometer/trip1/ trip 2?
Re your comments before on gas brands, I've got a highway jaunt scheduled for Wednesday where there are mainly Sunoco (I use their 91) but when I switch roads, there is a cutoff with a Shell and an Exxon...might try the Shell then.
Comment on fuel choice: Major brands are only logical choice, but exact one may not matter that much. Newer underground tanks with no sand or water or prior fuels (e.g. Diesel, Kerosene, Fuel oil ) are real important to those injectors IMO so we use majors only. Few pennies saves few dollars!
P.S. We also got 29 at 65-75 on 2010 CXL with 3.0. RPM's probably close.
Nonetheless, with each day driving my CXS I am beginning to enjoy it more and more. I feel more confident driving it...in sport, manual or touring mode, bobbing and weaving in and out of morning traffic, able to park in tight spaces and I have become a pro at using the back-up camera. Perhaps it is all perception but the car seems to be running so much more smoothly, no more gear hunting as the transmission shifts are so smooth and gentle.
Everything is holding up well and I have no reportable conditions. Yesterday morning when the temperature dropped to 28 degrees the DIC warned of possible icing and to drive carefully. The heater worked fine in the AUTO mode and was very quiet. So far I have only used the HVAC in the auto mode so I am not sure if the results would the be same in manual mode.
In sum, my CXS gives me undiluted pleasure as I drive to and from work each day. Great car in all respects...and I have no regrets from switching from an Avalon to the Lacrosse.
My thinking is the shifts could be a bit more crisp, that is not so exceedingly smooth. Also it seems they should be a bit earlier with gentle driving, but then that might be negative for this engine.
How much oil life do you have left?
I am a bit surprised at 80% with only 1500 miles. The Ecotec had 10% at 11000 miles, but needed changing because of 1 year requirement.
With colder weather approaching I suspect 0% will be showing before 7K. This engine must be harder on oil than Ecotec?