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Toyota Sienna Transmission Questions

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  • nw_in_xnw_in_x Member Posts: 4
    Since the day I bought my 2007 Sienna in May 2007 I have noticed a knocking noise when the accelerator is pressed. The noise continues until the engine reaches 2,000 RPMs. The noise also stops after the engine is warmed-up.

    The sales person who sold me the vehicle stated that all the 2007 Sienna's make the same noise. A mechanic I know; who owns a 2006 Sienna, stated that it sounds like one of the "lifters is sticking." If I accelerate too quickly, the vehicle almost sounds like a diesel (until I get over 2K RPMs). Not sure if this issue has been addressed in the past (on this board), any feedback is appreciated.
  • nws_readernws_reader Member Posts: 4
    Since the early miles, we noticed hesitation when switching gears. There was evident delay when switching. This got worse and worse and by 600 miles, the car would not go in 'D'. Had to manually switch to 2 and 3 to get it going. Dealer got us a 'new remanufactured' transmission :-) It's running very well now.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My engine doesn't sound like that at all.

    It is a chain-driven camshaft so there may be more noise than the old belt-driven cams on the 3.3l, but definitely no knocking.

    My trans hesitates a little bit, our 2009 Forester's 4EAT is much more responsive.
  • byumikecbyumikec Member Posts: 1
    Mine does the exact same thing. However it only does it when it is cold outside and only for 5 minutes at the most. I had the Toyota dealer look at it and the mechanic said that they all did that and that there was nothing wrong with it. The van had about 30k miles on it when I took it in.
  • karroshakarrosha Member Posts: 1
    Arodory, I got exactly the same issue, but the fluid turned black after 9k miles. The dealer flushed at a little over 30k, and now almost 40k and the color of the fluid is still dirty. I decided not to go to the same dealer ever again. Because when he came back recommending flushing the fluid, I told him it has been done not even a year ago. He goes like oh okay then maybe the technician made a mistake. What a f#$@ed up answer. Have you find the problem yet, please advice. Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You could drain and fill only, not flush, but do so more often. Maybe every 15k miles or so.
  • arodoryarodory Member Posts: 10
    Karrosha, I had it flushed about 7000 miles ago and it still looks good. They flushed and replaced 12 quarts at the time. This machine sucks out the old fluid from the dip stick tube and no detergents are used to clean the transmission so I think it is a safe procedure. Before it gets black again or at 15,000 miles I will just do a drain and refill to keep it clean. Once it gets black, the drain and refill (which is only a few quarts) does nothing...in a few days it is black again as it mixes with the rest of the fluid. Maybe the dealer did not flush all 12 quarts...did you check it after a few thousand miles to see if it was still clean or not. In any case, I think it should be flushed again. I understand the toyota fluid turns black faster then some other brands...but of course you HAVE to use the Toyota fluid.
  • arodoryarodory Member Posts: 10
    The fluid was still black after 2 drain and refills. I did a "safe" flush...12 quarts were sucked out by special machine and replaced (no detergents were used). Now before it gets black (15,000) I will keep up on the drain and refills. I will never let it get black again. Thanks
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    A single, simple, drain and refill (4 qts) will NOT result in anything close to prestine appearing ATF. It takes at least two 5 quart drain and fill procedures to get to decent looking ATF.

    Even my Lexus dealer service did not know that the front diff'l case must be drained separately and has its own drain plug, that's why 5 quarts are required.

    I went through the above procedure, as the ATF was burned and dirty, at only 40,000 miles and am now at close to 80,000 miles and am keeping a close eye on the ATF condition.
  • diesel_powerdiesel_power Member Posts: 16
    Hello experts,

    I have question regarding Toyota sienna 2010 Transmission.

    i Know That 4-D = drive

    what about 3 and 2-L any idea

    Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Those lock out the higher gears.

    So, say you put it in 3 - it will not use 4th and 5th gear. Say you are towing and climbing a steep hill, so you don't want it to shift to 4th and lug the engine.

    4 is actually not Drive, because it locks out overdrive (5th on 09 and prior and 5+6th on the new ones).
  • diesel_powerdiesel_power Member Posts: 16
    edited September 2010
    thanks aterixeira
    that its mean if put in 3. i will be using gear 1,2 and 3 or 3 only
    and if put in 2L. i will be using gear 1 and 2 or 2 only

    i will put in 3 or 2L when the car in total stop.
    or like its kind of shifting gears from 4-D to 3 or 2L when i am driving .?????

    Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's basically how it works, as far as I can tell.
  • john535john535 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Sienna that just had a new $4000 tranmission installed because the mechanics said 1 of the gears was comprised of "bad metal" and basically disintegrated leaving metal shards throughout the transmission. I'm amazed that there is no dealership or corporate interest in backing up thier product. All you hear from them is "your beyond th warranty and did you have it continually serviceda t a dealer. Is their any recourse for the consumers?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The U151E is a good transmission, too, so that's pretty uncommon.

    It's better than the U660E that replaced it. That got complaints about hesitation, especially the year it came out.

    Sorry to hear it.

    I take it no extended warranty? Not in the 5/60 powertrain standard coverage?
  • john535john535 Member Posts: 2
    No extended warranty just a new transmission and no interest whatsoever from the dealer or Toyota. The Trasnmission guy said he never saw anytig like this before based on the damage from the 1 failed gear. He said it was bad metal becasue all the other parts where fine.
  • ehudsehuds Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2007 Sienna. I started hearing a noise every time I took my foot off the gas and then about 7 months ago I went to reverse and it didn't want to reverse for me and then struggled in drive. It freaked me out and I immediately took it to my dealership. The serviceman I took it to experienced the same thing and then when they went to diagnose it, it wouldn't do it anymore. They had my car for two days and said they couldn't find the problem. About a month ago it happened again and again I took it to my dealership and again they said they couldn't find the problem. Now my car won't stay in park unless I have the e brake on. I'm so frustrated! I think its been the transmission the whole time and they never did anything about it! I also had to have the 02 sensor replaced a year after I bought it and the drive shaft also needed to be replaced. I think I was sold a lemon and I'm really upset. :mad:
  • whitbydadwhitbydad Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my 2007 Sienna yet Toyota says there is nothing wrong with the van and that is how it runs.
    I have had the van since new. I know when there is something not working right. The van slows down quicker than it used to and makes a faint grinding/rubbing sound when I remove my foot from the accelerator until it hits about 20mph and then it seems to stop making the noise and coast normally.
    I used to take my foot off of the accelerator when coasting down a hill as I would always end up picking up speed. Now the van slows down when going down a hill as if I'm pulling an anchor.
    Today when I got home and put it in park the van started to roll down my driveway.
    Nothing wrong with Toyota????
    Buyer beware!
  • rumandcokerumandcoke Member Posts: 2
    We are the original owners of a 2008 Sienna Limited. The vehicle has 130,000 miles without a single problem. I just took the vehicle to the dealer for a transmission flush and he told me not to have it done. I've never heard of such a thing! They said the trans would go over 200.000 easily and if I've never had it done it could cause more damage by having the work performed. Has anybody else been told this. Thanks
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Your service manager is correct. Toyota only recommends a true flush as a way of cleansing the system of shrapnel in the event that your transmission self destructs and contaminates the lines and the cooler in the radiator.

    Link to the TSB on my cloud site:
    http://www.mediafire.com/view/?9s6zw96tncvtbh4

    Recommended service is the "4 quarts at a time method".
  • jackriddle2jackriddle2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sienna. I needed a trans pan gasket replacement at 60K miles due to a leak. So, I got a flush and fill by default at that time. Now at 100K miles, it started to really hesitate when shifting - worse than ever. The dealer recommended a flush and fill. 2 days after the flush and fill I have a check engine light (P0500) which the dealer says is the vehicle speed sensor in the trans. They say the next step, if problems continue, is a new trans. I have no way to pin this immediate turn of events to the flush and fill but the timing is really suspicious.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited June 2013
    Well, maybe....

    There are actually two vehicle speed sensors mounted ON your transmission (not INSIDE), so they are relatively easy to test and replace if necessary. They serve several functions including comparison to the wheel speed sensors for stability control operation, they drive the speedometer, and they are used with the transmission control unit to help regulate transmission shifts including valve body pressures to ensure smooth operation. Perhaps your poor shift quality was related to a speed sensor problem all along. I certainly wouldn't jump to replacing the transmission until you know if this is a real mechanical problem or just electronics.

    Is your speedometer working correctly? A dead speedometer is one outcome of a failed sensor(s). If your 2004 has stability control do you have an ABS or TRAC light? How is the transmission working now? Did the flush & fill help? Did something feel different when the code popped up? If everything seems OK, then your sensors probably just had a momentary glitch and are probably fine. Not knowing exactly how they work, I cannot tell you if a dirty system is at play here or not, or if the flush would help or hurt.

    If everything is OK, I'd just reset the code and see if it returns.
  • jhodg927jhodg927 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2007 sienna & my transmission is suppose to be going out. My daughter took it on vacay, it started acting up. They put a fuel treatment in & it ran fine. I did that a couple of times also & it has been fine. Now I have 3 lights on my dash that stay lit up. First they said it needed a sensor when we got the sensor replaced they put it in then took it back out saying the transmission was going out. What to do?? They want $5000 to replace the transmission. I have been driving toyotas for 30 yrs without any problems. This is a first
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