Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
2003 Blazer Battery Problems
dtrevino80
Member Posts: 3
in Chevrolet
I just bought a blazer last week on Tuesday, prior to buying it I test drove it, at that time the battery was dead they jumped it, it ran fine. They replaced the battery prior to me buying it. I got it home and drove it Wed. it ran fine no problems. Thursday morning, no go. Friday I jumped it, had it tested it looked to be the alternator. Replaced the alternator and it ran fine both Friday and Saturday morning. Coming out of work Sat. night, it acted as though the battery was dead, turned the key twice and nothing on the third try, it turned over. Sunday morning, DEAD yet again. I did buy a new battery, it is 720 amps and the old one was 660. My question is, could it have been the amps or am I maybe looking at a new starter or something more serious? Today will be the true test to know whether or not this battery will work.
0
Comments
Now, if everything above is good, try this:
Turn on the head lights. Are they nice a bright? Should be if the battery is reading the 12.6VDC indicated above. Now, try to start the car. The lights should dim slightly when the engine is cranking. If the lights do not dim at all, and the engine doesn't crank, the problem is in the starter circuit. That could be anywhere from the ignition switch to the starter itself, and all power and ground connections in between.
If the lights dim significantly, and do not brighten right back up when you release the key, you either have a bad battery (check the voltage again, should still be above 12VDC) or a bad power or ground connection. The main ground for the battery to engine is on the front drivers side of the block, down by the oil pan. If this ground is not clean and tight, you can get the symptoms you describe. Just follow the big negative ground wire down from the battery and you will see where it connects to the engine.
The big positive wire goes from the battery down to the starter. GM uses an integrated starter solenoid at the starter. You can measure the voltage at the starter and should be the same as at the battery. There will also be a couple of small wires down on the starter. These come from the ignition switch circuit and activate the starter solenoid when you turn the ignition switch to start. With the car securely supported, measure the voltage at these terminals when the ignition switch is turned to start. The voltage should go from zero to something above 11 volts and you should here a distinctive "click" in the starter. Now, if everything decides to work at this moment, that sucker is going to start so make sure you have your hands and other important bodily parts clear!
If you do not get a voltage on the solenoid, there is a problem upstream in the circuit. Could be in the ignition switch itself. If you do get voltage, and nothing happens, the starter needs to be tested. If you hear the loud click, but the starter doesn't do anything else, probably the starter motor. If you get voltage, but nothing clicks, probably the solenoid. Either way, pull the starter and have it tested.
How many miles are on the car?
NAPA parts are among the best rebuilt parts you can buy, They have the highest quality control standards in the industry and their contract rebuilders must follow them. If you will notice, NAPA does not have "discount auto supply" in with their name or advertisements and that is why their prices are slightly higher than the parts from the "discount" auto suppliers" like Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. No, I have no financial interest in NAPA.
You can find the NAPA parts you need on-line (http://www.napaonline.com ). Print and take a copy of the web-page to the NAPA dealer and present it to the counterman. That will help eliminate any ordering mistakes. "Never trust a counterman." .AC Delco replacement parts can be purchased on-line from Rock Auto ( http://www.rockauto.com ) and are about 30% cheaper than the MSRP of AC Delco parts.
The batteries on all computer controlled vehicles have a constant parasitic battery drain due to the radio, digital clock, relays, sensors, ECM, etc., even when the engine. is not running.. With a 50 - 100 ma parasitic battery drain, a weak battery can be dead as a door nail in 24 hours. Example, my so-called " 36 month" Autolite battery was only 13 months old and was dead in two days because of a shorted power door lock relay. I did not fall for the hook by getting a battery adjustment and therefore get another Autolite battery It took me four years to get off the "battery adjustment" merry-go-round from Sears Die Hard batteries. I replaced the power door lock relay and replaced the Autolite battery with a AC Delco 75-60 (60 month) battery. I expect the AC Delco battery to need replacment in about 40 months. Normally a battery will last about 3/4 as long as the warranty. That scam keeps customers coming back for the same brand.
NAPA......"GET THE GOOD STUFF"
Don't be too concerned about fixing a problem by the process of elimination on a vehicle with high milage. Professional auto mechanics sometimes do the same thing.......at your expense.
If one hose is hot, and the other noticeably cooler, the heater core is plugged up. Not an uncommon problem on the S series. Assuming there is no leaking from the heater core (check the carpet on the passengers side footwell) you can disconnect the two hoses from the heater core at the firewall, attach a length of heater hose to each side and use a pair of water hose repair ends (female side) to attach to a water hose. GENTLY run water through the core in the reverse direction and you should be able to flush the blocking sediment out of the core. Assuming the two hoses were of different temperature as described above, the hotter of the two hoses is the input side, the cooler is the return side. So, try flushing with the hose putting water into the return, and catch the water coming from the input side in a large bucket.
Sort of a shade-tree power backflush. Worked for me.