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2009 GRAND CARAVAN/T&C FEED BACK

1246

Comments

  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    It gives you heavy duty cooling and air shocks. If you have the coins // get it.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Trailer Tow Prep Group Close $600
    Includes:
    Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
    Engine Oil Cooler
    Heavy Duty Radiator
    Heavy Duty Transmission Oil Cooler
    Load Leveling and Height Control Suspension
    Trailer Tow Wiring Harness
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Cost certainly won't be an issue; was wondering if it's worth it since I don't plan on towing anything (except my family around town :P ), and if this package had any negative effects concerning how it rode ie too rigid/stiff like the Honda Odyssey.

    Any additional info would be appreciated!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Nope, air shocks might actually ride better as they adjust to your load conditions. If you live in a northern climate then skip this. You do not need the extra cooling.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Are there any concerns regarding this load-leveling suspension in terms of maintenance (adjustments to the system needed to be done by the dealer mechanics) that'll wear/break down/cost more down the road?

    Please forgive my ignorance :blush:
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I think you worry too much. My father in law has a 2000 TC and it still has the original air shocks.
    My old Caddy had them too and were great when I loaded up the trunk. They are not much harder to change than regular shocks as we have done this in the shop many times.
    I would be more worried about the cooling system if you live in a cold climate.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Well since I'm not too familiar with Chrysler products, & their specific options - I'd figure the best policy is to ask you guys here ;) ...Since I live in Wisconsin - you would not reccommend looking into 1 of these vans w/the towing package?...There's quite a few of these available (1 dealer has several of them) in my area; is there a particular reason for your concern?

    Thanks!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Don't get the towing package unless they are giving you a tremendous discount 9-10K. Then it doesn't matter as long as you have a garage. I lived at KI Sawyer for 4 years in the 70s and the extra cooling package would not be something I wanted in that climate. But money talks man. See what kind of deal you can get. I had a block heater and used very thin oil to survive. In this case you would need the use the 0W30 or 0W40 in the winter for sure. This summer just stick to the 10W30 until it breaks in. We even put news paper over the radiator until summer. The heated seats are very nice BTW.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    PS/ I live in hot Fl and that cooling system would have been nice to have and not a single van had it on the lot.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I doubt the added cooling will be an issue in Wisconsin. I have a '98 DGC and live in Fairbanks, AK. That thing actually gets warm enough inside that I have to turn the heat down from full after a short drive, even when ambient temperatures are -50F. It is the only vehicle I have ever owned that will fully heat the interior at those temperatures, and I do not restrict air flow over the radiator.

    Wisconsin does not receive enough weather in the "extreme cold" range to adversely affect the transmission temperatures on a regular basis, but I agree that having the added cooling capacity in that climate is not likely to be of benefit. The shocks, however, could be handy, especially if you have any plan to use the van for cargo hauling. The load leveling shocks are great on my van when I put large loads in it - they prevent the rear end from sagging and giving you that "looking at the sky" sensation. :P

    Regardless of your final choice, if you do find the van feels extremely sluggish in cold temperatures, you can replace the transmission fluid with Amsoil universal ATF for a marked improvement or add a transmission oil pan heater to reduce the effect of cold starts.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    The new cars have synthetic fluid in the transmission. Maybe! That is the rumor anyway.

    Ok, as usual you have two different opinions. At 20 to 40 below zero folks things are much different. We were colder than Anchorage and had more snow at KI Sawyer. Parts of Wisconsin, UP, Minnesota, get very cold for most of the winter.

    But hey, a garage would be nice eh!
    Bottom line is price. For a great deal I would put up with a little pain man.
    Don't put anything in your van the manual doesn't authorize or your local dealer. Hope he still has a job. :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Virtually every Chrysler product with an automatic transmission built since 2000 has come from the factory with ATF+4 which is a "Synthetic" transmission fluid.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Thanks man!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    No worries! ;)
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    OK, I have a minor mileage update.

    Still running 44PSI in all my vehicles.

    My HWY mileage went down 1.3MPG for the last trip to Tampa. Probably gas and the van breaking in. But my beast is on close watch for the next 6 months to see what happens on the MPG (dealer did an alignment and an oil change to 10W30 syn was the only difference). I will slip some 5W30 full syn in shortly at my 6K oil change. Since I have an empty 10W30 jug laying around I should be able to pull this one off at the dealer (TBD).
    Side note is that over the last 50 years I have noticed some new engines get better MPG when there are new and some after 18K. Strange but true! Most of my GMs were that way and my Hondas were the opposite. My Prius kicks butt out of the chocks.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    One more thing. I noticed on two of my Hybrids that it took two oil changes before i noticed any difference with syn oil. That could be caused by anything but I had a mechanic on another forum and the dealer tell me that was normal. Also I get better mileage after the oil has been in 1500 miles.

    Boy the Mobil 1 sure looks better than the Q syn oil.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    As a general rule, engines improve in the fuel economy department after breaking in, and then continue to improve for a goodly amount thereafter. Case in point, our 1998 DGC 3.8 managed 17.9 mpg on its first trip (a trip of just over 500 miles), however, by the 20,000 mile mark the van would deliver just over 20 mpg on that same trip. That said, on a different trip at about the 145,000 mile mark I managed to coax 28.2 mpg out of it and get just over 500 miles on a single tank.

    As for synthetic oil, I've yet to see any scientific evidence that proves that it does anything to improve fuel economy to any measurable degree (and you can bet that if it did, the various manufacturers would be screaming that fact from the top of every mountain).

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Dave, you still alive? Seems to be 3 of us that own a 2009 so far. LOL
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    I would've joined you guys as an owner - however the so called "deals" that were offered a few weeks ago were nothing to be desired ($3,500 off for a T&C - $4,000 off for a GC with no finance deals) so my wife, & I went back to Honda which had considerably better offers on the Odyssey.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    March were the best deals. The Honda is still overpriced for what you get IMHO. Looked at one this weekend/get out your wallet man.

    Side issue, I sent my wife to the dealer to get my my oil changed and they put in 1/2 quart too much They were closed Saturday so I could not get it fixed. Also they over torqued the drain pug so I could not easily get it off on my back with no lift. I hope they used the oil I sent! Otherwise I have no way of knowing if they put in my synthetic oil. Also they convinced my wife she needed a tire rotation at 5300 miles. I was pissed. $20 down the drain and a substandard oil change. At this point if I am not watching them I will change the oil myself regardless if it is free. I have 6 free oil change coupons that I was going to use. ARGH! I still am trying to link my homelink on two new vehicles with "no joy". My garage door opener is only 18 months old and the best one Lowes sells.

    The Van is perfect, the service and parts are suspect at my local dealer. I took it to a Clearwater dealer to install a back up system and they gave me a huge military discount and did a perfect job. Almost 60% cheaper than my dealer.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Is all ATF4 synthetic?
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
    2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.

    WARNING: There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine is running. There is a risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.

    3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
    4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling.

    NOTE: When inserting dipstick special tool 9336, excess insertion force may cause the dipstick to slip past the stop on the bracket in the transmission oil pan. An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.).
    5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.

    NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
    6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
    7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct.
    8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
    9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap
    FLUID CONDITION
    Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.

    MOPAR® ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.

    After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.

    FLUID AND FILTER SERVICE

    FLUID/FILTER SERVICE (RECOMMENDED)

    NOTE: Refer to the maintenance schedules in LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE, or the vehicle owner's manual, for the recommended maintenance (fluid/filter change) intervals for this transaxle.

    NOTE: Only fluids of the type labeled MOPAR® ATF+4 should be used. A filter change should be made at the time of the transmission oil change. The magnet (on the inside of the oil pan) should also be cleaned with a clean, dry cloth.

    NOTE: If the transaxle is disassembled for any reason, the fluid and filter should be changed.
    1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE for proper procedures. Place a drain container with a large opening, under transaxle oil pan.
    2. Loosen pan bolts and tap the pan at one corner to break it loose allowing fluid to drain, then remove the oil pan.
    3. Remove nuts at the oil filter.
    4. Install a new filter and nuts, tighten to 5 N·m (40 in. lbs.).
    5. Install the fluid filter oil pan, use a bead of MOPAR® ATF RTV (MS-GF41).
    6. Clean the oil pan and magnet. Reinstall pan using new MOPAR® Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts to 6 N·m (50 in. lbs.).
    7. Pour four Quarts of MOPAR® ATF+4 through the dipstick opening.
    8. Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied, move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
    9. Check the transaxle fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level to 3 mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick.
    10. Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle has reached normal operating temperature 82° C (180°F). Refer to Fluid Level and Condition Check for the proper fluid fill procedure (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - 62TE/FLUID - Standard Procedure) .
    11. To prevent dirt from entering transaxle, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick opening.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yes, by definition all ATF+4 is a Group III "Synthetic".
  • awawawaw Member Posts: 4
    We have a 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE, 6 cylinder. Thinking seriously
    about taking advantage of the Cash for Clunkers program, if and when
    it becomes law. To qualify, a vehicle's mpg must 18 or less.
    Is there any updated/realistic source to determine average mpg for this vehicle?
    Thank you.
  • awawawaw Member Posts: 4
    I apologize if my message was posted in the wrong discussion thread.
    Still learning how the forum works.
    Thanks again.
  • oldold Member Posts: 13
    A couple weeks ago my wife and I just bought an 09' Dodge SXT 4.0 GC with Nav, DVD and swivel seats and power doors and power rear fold, built in shades, etc, etc.
    this is our first minivan ever.
    Sticker was $38,900something, and we got it for like $32K or so, plus they gave us almost $3K more on our trade then Carmax would have. They did that to cover the taxes, tags, etc, and also to sweeten the deal.
    My goal was to get them to let me have the van for over $10K off MSRP, which they wouldn't do, but after it's all said and done, I think I got us there with the extra they gave us on the trade, so I'm happy.
    Oh yeah, and 0% finance is nice too.

    This is my wife's vehicle. I had her hand calculate the mileages, and the first tank got her about 17.5mpg, of mix.
    2nd tank she said got her 18.6 of mix.

    We just did a 200mile round trip to the beach, so I'm curious what the mileage will be when she fills up.
    I like the sound of the 4.0...it has a nice rumble sound when accellerating.
    her driving is hard accellerations and quick stops in city, but she cruises at 70 to 75 on the highways.
    Acceleration seems pretty decent...she said it doesn't compare to her 05' Accord V6, but that is to be expected considering this is twice the vehicle.

    anyhow, so far we love it. we have 2 small children 4yr old and 8 month old.
    DVD was nice for me...and the 4yr old.

    My friends were all raggin on me at first when I told them I got a minvan...until they saw it...now they're asking me when our next road trip is...LOL.

    One negative, was on the NAV. We had a Honda Accord with Nav (the car we traded in), and I drive an Acura RL with NAV. the NAV on the Dodge does not compare. First, you cannot program it while driving (even if you are the passenger), 2nd, it does not have a scroll knob that allows you to move the map around....you have to touch the screen to do that and it's much harder and more accident prone if you are the driver doing that.
    It seems alot of the simple buttons, like zoom, scroll, etc, are on the screen, which is a pain to work with.

    ps, only problem so far is the driverside power sliding door will open to the max, but the motor will keep clicking, as if it's trying to open the door even further, and then stop. We will take it to the dealer to get that fixed soon, but besides that..thumbs up...
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    We have the same vehicle without the navi. My in town and mixed driving MPG is going up but my freeway MPG is down slightly. I am using 5W30 synthetic and will move to 0W30 on the next oil change. I have 44 PSI in my tires and it rides fine. I love the sound of this 4.0. Sounds tough doesn't it!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    There is a web site at EPA that goes way back. I am not sure if its the combo mileage or city MPG. I have not read the final bill yet. You will get the tax credit reguardless. My son is in the same boat. His city is 15 and combo 18. He may be ok.
  • oldold Member Posts: 13
    Thanks ETP,

    I'll check the tire pressure and will bump it up if it's below 44.
    I'm sure that will help.

    I will probably wait on the Synthetic...probably after it's 4th or 5th oil change...I want to get this engine broken in a little prior to going full Synthetic.
    I am glad to see you are getting great mileage. gives me hope.

    Btw, we purchased a MyGig Lockpick that allows you to control the Nav while driving...just like the Honda/Acura. Just installed it lastnight and it works as advertised :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Keep in mind that these vehicles were not designed to run with pressure any where near as high as 44 psi, and that if you opt to run such pressures, you run the risk of not only losing control of the vehicle in an emergency situation, but to cause premature wear on the suspension. To say that I highly recommend following the factory specification for tire inflation is a gross understatement.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I strongly disagree with that statement. However, do not increase your tire pressure above the max cold inflation on the side wall without doing so at your own risk. I have been running 44-51 PSI for 10 years with out problem on 7 different vehicles. Visit the prius forum if you need the truth on this. It is just the opposite of what shipo said BTW.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/asp/ccr/ccr20030101gm.asp

    Tire Pressure | Back To Top
    The first place to start any mileage self-help program is to purchase a tire gauge, keep it handy, and use it often. Most vehicle manufacturers recommend tire inflation pressures that are a compromise of comfort and safety. In the vehicles owners manual are listed a range of tire inflation pressures usually to compensate for loaded and unloaded conditions. One of the most important changes you can make is to keep your tires inflated at the highest recommended level. If the manual gives only a single inflation pressure, read the information on the sidewall of your tires concerning maximum safe inflation pressure and add 3-5 pounds of air making certain not to exceed the stated maximum inflation pressure noted on the tire. Keep a close eye on your tires for uneven tire wear. Greater tread wear in the center means too much pressure. If this happens, rotate the tires and slightly reduce air pressure.
    Step
    6Tire inflation is the final factor to note. Lower pressure causes increased side wall flexing. Under inflated tires can add 6% to your fuel consumption, which could easily translate into burning an extra gallon of gas with every fill up if you’re getting around 20 MPG. You really notice the effects of tire pressure on energy use when peddling a bicycle. One reason why road bikes have thin high pressure tires is that the rolling resistance is far less than with a mountain bike. In fact, the Malibu Triathlon has different divisions for mountain and road bike riders. Tires tend to lose air pressure more in the winter, 1 pound of pressure for every drop of 10 degrees Fahrenheit so check them more frequently when the air chills. Air Alert makes a set of four self-calibrating tire LED tire valve caps that start to flash when your tire pressure drops 4 pounds per square inch. They are available with free shipping for $29.99 from Amazon.com
    http://www.hybridcars.com/forums/right-tire-pressure-or-overinflation.html
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Mine used oil the first 2K and then not a drop anymore. I just bumped up my prius tires to 50PSI/side wall reads 51PSI. However my Colorado, Civic hybrid, and 3 other Dodge Caravans in the family all run at 44 PSI. Your tires will last longer and run cooler as well as get better MPG. You will also get a little firmer ride but not like my Prius. If you like a soft ride run them at 38-40 PSI.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Disagree all you want, that doesn't mean what I say is incorrect. The following is a link that references a very interesting dissertation written by a tire engineer. As an engineer myself, my opinion is that his words make a huge amount of sense, especially so when compared to a bunch of folks mixing fact and fantasy on a Prius message board. :shades:

    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=13075

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Old, you may want to go to walmart and get two jugs of 0W30 mobil 1//there is a $10 rebate on each jug with a limit of two rebates. The price in the store was $22. Do an online search for the rebate.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Old, we need some more 2009 GC/TC owners as you are. We are getting to many posts by people who don't even own a 2009 or are in the process of buying a 2009. I wanted this to track issues with just the 2009 through all the bankruptcy and government warranty programs. The 4.0/6speed was the best combo on the lot.
    As far as dealer service on our 2009 GCs and TCs it looks as that is very dealer specific so far at 3 different dealerships. My mixed driving MPG continues to move up (23.5) and my great initial MPG on the highway (two long trips) has dropped to around 25 or less ( was 27.3). My Prius is up to 54-58 in mixed driving. AC on really hits my MPG on the Prius. Sold my last Honda on Tue. So just two vehicles in my stable at this time. We definitely prefer the GC for trips as we can load up the grand kids and take them to Disney. If I ever wear these tires out ( before I give it to my son) I will check out the LRR Michelins that just came out.
  • oldold Member Posts: 13
    Hi ETP,

    No, I did buy the 09 4.0/6spd combo. We had it for a couple months now. So far no real major problems. Your mileage is excellent. We are not getting those yet. But we have about 2600 or so miles on it.
    the Van is definately great for long trips to the beach house.
    the 4.0 really has a nice exhaust sound to it and has suprising power to it. Keeping up with fast drivers is no problem.

    A question: In the service book, I believe it states change oil every 6000 or 6500 miles.
    When we turn on the van, it tells us to change oil soon. We called the dealer and they said you need to change every 3000 miles.
    How often do you change your oil? I don't want to mess with the Lifetime powertrain warranty, so I want to make sure we follow the proper maintanence schedule. Thanks
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I try to change mine every 3k but if it slips to 5k no big deal. I also use Mobile1 from Walmart and take the jug in and have then use my oil. I noticed my change warning came on also and it is too early for a change. I think they forgot to reset it at my last change. I believe that 3k is for heavy duty stop and go driving conditions
    I change all my vehicles every 3K but 5K should be ok if you use synthetic.

    Yep this 4.0 is a hot engine to say the least and the 6 speed rocks. My daughter bought the non touring TC and she notices the difference in the ride and handling.

    Did you get the touring GC?
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    ENGINE OIL
    WARNING: New or used engine oil can be irritating to the skin. Avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact with engine oil. Contaminants in used engine oil, caused by internal combustion, can be hazardous to your health. Thoroughly wash exposed skin with soap and water. Do not wash skin with gasoline, diesel fuel, thinner, or solvents, health problems can result. Do not pollute, dispose of used engine oil properly. Contact your dealer or government agency for location of collection center in your area.

    When service is required, Chrysler recommends that only Mopar® brand parts, lubricants and chemicals be used. Mopar® provides the best engineered products for servicing Chrysler vehicles.

    Only lubricants bearing designations defined by the following organization should be used.

    Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
    American Petroleum Institute (API)
    National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI)
    Association des Constructeurs Européens d' Automobiles (European Automobile Manufacturers Association) (ACEA)

    API CERTIFICATION AND LICENSE SYMBOL


    Use an engine oil that is API Certified and Licensed to display the certification mark. MOPAR® provides engine oils that meet or exceed, Material Standard MS-6395 requirement.

    SAE VISCOSITY


    Engine oils are designed to improve low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy. Refer to the engine oil filler cap for the preferred engine oil viscosity grade for each vehicle . SAE viscosity grades are used to specify the correct viscosity oil for an engine. Use only Multi-Viscosity oils. These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indicates the cold (5W) to hot (20, 30) temperature performance range of the oil.

    ACEA CATEGORIES
    For countries that use the ACEA European Oil Categories for service fill oils, use engine oils that meet the requirements of ACEA A1/B1, A2/B2, or A3/B3.

    CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION


    The Engine Oil Certification Mark was developed and trademarked by the API to refer customers to those engine oils preferred by the automobile manufacturers. This symbol means that the oil has been certified and licensed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). This certification mark will only be found on the front of the oil containers . Those oils that do not display the “Mark” on the front of the container should not be used.

    Chrysler only recommends API Certified engine oils that meet the requirements of Material Standard MS-6395. Use Mopar or an equivalent oil meeting the specification MS-6395.

    SYNTHETIC ENGINE OILS
    There are a number of engine oils being promoted as either synthetic or semi-synthetic. If you chose to use such a product, use only those oils that are certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) to display the “Certification Mark” and show SAE viscosity grade recommended for each vehicle. Follow the service schedule that describes your driving type.

    ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES/SUPPLEMENTS
    The manufacturer does not recommend the addition of any engine oil additives/supplements to the specified engine oil. Engine oil additives/supplements should not be used to enhance engine oil performance. Engine oil additives/supplements should not be used to extend engine oil change intervals. No additive is known to be safe for engine durability and can degrade emission components. Additives can contain undesirable materials that harm the long term durability of engines and emission systems by:

    Increasing the level of Phosphorus and Sulfur in the engine oil. The API Certified Engine Oils control the Phosphorus and Sulfur contents of the oil to levels that reduce the contamination effect on the vehicles emission control system.
    Altering the viscosity characteristics of the engine oil so that it no longer meets the requirements of the specified viscosity grade.
    Creating potential for an undesirable additive compatibility interaction in the engine crankcase. The engine oils contain a performance additive system carefully developed to optimize the oils performance in the engine. The addition of supplements may cause the oil to thicken prematurely, cause excessive deposit build-up and potentially shorten engine life.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - NAFTA
    The oil change indicator system will remind you that it is time to take the vehicle in for scheduled maintenance.

    On Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) equipped vehicles “Oil Change Required” will be displayed in the EVIC and a single chime will sound, indicating that an oil change is necessary.

    On Non-EVIC equipped vehicles “Change Oil” will flash in the instrument cluster odometer and a single chime will sound, indicating that an oil change is necessary.

    Based on engine operation conditions the oil change indicator message will illuminate, this means that service is required for the vehicle. Have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, within the next 500 miles (805 km).

    NOTE: The oil change indicator message will not monitor the time since the last oil change. Change the vehicles oil if it has been 6 months since the last oil change even if the oil change indicator message is NOT illuminated.
    Change the engine oil more often if you drive the vehicle off-road for an extended period of time.
    Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 6,000 miles (10,000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first.


    Oil change indicator - Reset
    The vehicle is equipped with an engine oil change indicator system. The “Oil Change Required” message will flash in the EVIC display for approximately 10 seconds after a single chime has sounded to indicate the next scheduled oil change interval. The engine oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style.

    Unless reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. To turn off the message temporarily, press and release the Menu button. To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance) perform the following procedure:

    Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position (Do not start the engine).
    Fully depress the accelerator pedal slowly three times within 10 seconds.
    Turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position.

    NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary repeat this procedure.

    At Each Stop for Fuel
    Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil level while the vehicle is on level ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil only when the level is at or below the SAFE or MIN mark.
    Check the windshield washer solvent and add if required.
    Once a Month
    Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear or damage.
    Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the terminals as required.
    Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake master cylinder, power steering and transmission and add as needed.
    Check all lights and other electrical items for correct operation.
    At Each Oil Change
    Change the engine oil filter.
    Inspect the brake hoses and lines.
    CAUTION: Failure to perform the required maintenance items may result in damage to the vehicle.

    REQUIRED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
    Perform Maintenance Every Maintenance Items
    (Where time and mileage are listed, follow the interval that occurs first.)
    Miles Kilometers Months
    6000 10000 6 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    12000 20000 12 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.
    Inspect the CV Joints. Perform the first inspection at 12,000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months.
    Inspect the exhaust system. Perform the first inspection at 12,000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months.

    18000 30000 18 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    24000 40000 24 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.
    Inspect the CV Joints.
    Inspect the exhaust system.
    Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals, replace if necessary.

    30000 50000 30 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    Replace the engine air cleaner filter.

    36000 60000 36 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.

    42000 70000 42 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    48000 80000 48 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.
    Inspect the CV Joints.
    Inspect the exhaust system.
    Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals, replace if necessary.

    54000 90000 54 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    60000 100000 60 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    Replace the engine air cleaner filter.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.
    Change the automatic transaxle fluid & filter if using the vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet or frequent trailer towing.
    Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60 months if not done at 102,000 miles (170 000 km).

    66000 110000 66 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    72000 120000 72 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.
    Inspect the CV Joints.
    Inspect the exhaust system.
    Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals, replace if necessary.

    78000 130000 78 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.

    84000 140000 84 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    If using the vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary.
    Replace the air conditioning filter.
    Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary.

    90000 150000 90 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.
    Replace t
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    5 YEAR INSPECTION - LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY
    The following steps outline the dealer inspection procedure required every 5 years for vehicles covered under the terms of the Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. Refer to the appropriate warranty information for additional terms and coverages applicable to the Lifetime Powertrain Warranty.

    1. Lift the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
    2. Check all Powertrain components for leaks or physical damage. Note any concerns.
    3. Lower the vehicle and check the level and condition of the engine oil.
    4. Connect a diagnostic scan tool and check for any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS, AND GENUINE PARTS

    ENGINE
    Component Fluid, Lubricant, and Genuine Part
    Engine Coolant MOPAR ® Antifreeze/Coolant Five Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
    Engine Oil (3.3L and 3.8L Engines) Use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395. Refer to your oil filler cap for correct SAE grade
    Engine Oil (4.0L Engine) Use API Certified SAE 10W-30 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395. Refer to your oil filler cap for correct SAE grade
    Oil Filter (3.3L and 3.8L Engines) MOPAR ® Engine Oil Filter (P/N 04105409) or equivalent
    Oil Filter (4.0L Engine) MOPAR ® Engine Oil Filter (P/N 04884899AB) or equivalent
    Spark Plugs (3.3L and 3.8L Engines) RE14PLP5 (Gap 0.050 in [1.27 mm])
    Spark Plugs (4.0L Engine) ZFR5LP-13G (Gap 0.050 in [1.27 mm])
    Fuel Selection (3.3L and 3.8L Engines) 87 Octane
    Fuel Selection (4.0L Engine) 87 Octane Acceptable — 89 Recommended

    ENGINE - EXPORT
    Component Fluid, Lubricant, and Genuine Part
    Engine Coolant MOPAR ® Antifreeze/Coolant Five Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
    Engine Oil - Gasoline (Non ACEA Categories) Use API Certified SAE 5W-20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade. SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to MB 229.31 or MB 229.51 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil is not available.
    Engine Oil - Gasoline (ACEA Categories) For countries that use the ACEA European Oil Categories for Service Fill Oils, use engine oils meeting the requirements of ACEA C3, and approved to MB 229.31 or MB 229.51. SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to MB 229.31 or MB 229.51 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil is not available.
    Engine Oil - Diesel (without Particulate Filter) Use SAE 0W-40 Diesel Engine Oils confirming to API (American Petroleum Institute) Quality CI-4 or CJ-4. For countries that use the ACEA European Oil Categories for Service Fill Oils, use engine oils meeting the requirements of ACEA C3 and approved to MB 229.31 or MB 229.51.
    Engine Oil - Diesel (with Particulate Filter) Use SAE 5W-30 Diesel Engine Oils confirming to API (American Petroleum Institute) Quality CI-4 or CJ-4. For countries that use the ACEA European Oil Categories for Service Fill Oils, use engine oils meeting the requirements of ACEA C3 (LOW ASH) and approved to MB 229.31 or MB 229.51.
    Oil Filter (3.8L Engine) MOPAR ® Engine Oil Filter (P/N 04884899AB) or equivalent
    Oil Filter (2.8L Diesel Engine) MOPAR ® Engine Oil Filter (P/N 5003558AA)
    Spark Plugs (3.8L Engine) RE14PLP5 (Gap 0.050 in [1.27 mm])
    Fuel Selection (3.8L Engine) 91 Octane
    Fuel Selection (2.8L Diesel Engine) 50 Cetane or higher (Less than 15 ppm Sulfur)

    CHASSIS
    Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts.
    Automatic Transmission Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
    Brake Master Cylinder Mopar ® DOT 3, SAE J1703 should be used. If DOT 3, SAE J1703 brake fluid is not available, then DOT 4 is acceptable. Use only recommended brake fluids.
    Power Steering Reservoir Mopar ® Power Steering Fluid +4 or Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid

    CAPACITIES
    Description U.S Metric
    Fuel (approximate)
    All Engines 20 Gallons 76 Liters
    Engine Oil-With Filter
    3.3L and 3.8L Engine (SAE 5W-20, API Certified) 5.0 Quarts 4.7 Liters
    4.0L Engine (SAE 10W-30 API Certified) 5.5 Quarts 5.2 Liters
    Cooling System *
    3.3L, 3.8L, and 4.0L Engine (MOPAR® Engine Coolant/Antifreeze 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) 13.4 Quarts 12.6 Liters
    * Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level. Add 2.9 Qts (2.8 L) if equipped with a rear heater.
    Power Steering System
    Power Steering 2.5 Pints 1.2 Liters
    A/C Refrigerant System
    Front A/C Only 1.75 Pounds 0.79 Kilograms
    Front and Rear A/C 2.44 Pounds 1.11 Kilograms
    Automatic Transmission
    Automatic Transaxle - 4XTE Service Fill 4.0 Quarts 3.8 Liters
    Automatic Transaxle - 4XTE Overhaul Fill 9.7 Quarts 9.2 Liters
    Automatic Transmission 62TE Service Fill 5.5 Quarts 5.2 Liters
    Automatic Transmission 62TE Fill 9.0 Quarts 8.5 Liters

    CAPACITIES - EXPORT
    Description U.S Metric
    Fuel (Approximate) 20 Gallons 76 Liters
    Engine Oil with Filter
    3.8L Engine 5.0 Quarts 4.7 Liters
    2.8L Diesel Engine 7.0 Quarts 6.6 Liters
    Cooling System *
    3.8L Engine (MOPAR® Engine Coolant/Antifreeze 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) 13.4 Quarts 12.6 Liters
    2.8L Diesel Engine (MOPAR® Engine Coolant/Antifreeze 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) 14.5 Quarts 13.8 Liters
    * Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level. Add 2.9 Qts (2.8 L) if equipped with a rear heater.
    Power Steering System
    Power Steering 2.5 Pints 1.2 Liters
    A/C Refrigerant System
    Front A/C Only 1.75 Pounds 0.79 Kilograms
    Front and Rear A/C 2.44 Pounds 1.11 Kilograms
    Automatic Transmission
    Automatic Transaxle - 4XTE Service Fill 4.0 Quarts 3.8 Liters
    Automatic Transaxle - 4XTE Overhaul Fill 9.7 Quarts 9.2 Liters
    Automatic Transmission 62TE Service Fill 5.5 Quarts 5.2 Liters
    Automatic Transmission 62TE Fill 9.0 Quarts 8.5 Liters
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I have the complete service set so if you need anything just ask.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I buy the cheapest gas I can find! That is the first time I noticed 89 octane.
  • oldold Member Posts: 13
    Hi Thanks for your post.

    This line:
    REQUIRED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
    Perform Maintenance Every Maintenance Items
    (Where time and mileage are listed, follow the interval that occurs first.)
    Miles Kilometers Months
    6000 10000 6 Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
    Rotate tires.


    Shows you only need to change the oil every 6000 miles. I'm wondering why it's telling me to change the oil soon at 2600 miles.

    With my Acura, I'm suppose to change every 7500, and the maintenance light comes on at around every 7000 or so.
    Dodge must've forgot to update it..??

    I don't think I've had a car where I had to change the oil every 3K miles in a very long time. It seems they're making em' now-a-days with longer intervals between changes.
    But with that, you still change every 3K to 5K? force of habit maybe? :)

    I'm not sure if I have the Touring or not. It does not say Touring, so I'm guessing it isn't, but it seems to have all the bells and whistles:
    Nav, DVD, auto windshield wipers, side window shades, swivel seats, turn signal warning, power doors, tailgate, leather, power pedals, heated seats, Infinity speakers, that's all I can think of for now. I'm not sure what extra stuff the Touring has.

    and yeah, we only put in 87 Grade and get it at the local Exxon or Costco where it's the cheapest in the area. That's the first I've seen 89 as well...Seems to run fine with the cheap stuff :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Per a number of reports from a different board, it is a fairly common occurrence for the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) to recommend an early oil change for the first service. Beyond that, things settle down and more closely align with the language in the manual.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Old, Most cars companies are reducing their oil change intervals because of problems they want to avoid. Oil gets dirty no matter how good the oil is. As far as the first change at 2600 miles warning that is weird. I changed mine at 2400 because it was convenient to do it at that time and I had a big trip coming up and needed to change it early the first time anyway. Mine came with 6 free change coupons so it is only the synthetic oil I bought that cost me. Check, you may have a free first oil change. My daughter did and did not know it. Call the service manager and sales manager and they will hook you up man. That warning has be wondering though! What is the manufacture date on the sticker or door?
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    http://www.toolsource.com/dipstick-nag1-transmission-p-100198.html

    $59 was ok, just a little miffed that some new vehicles have no way of checking the fluid levels unless you pay the dealer.

    I plan on a dump and fill around 20K.
This discussion has been closed.