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2005 Chevrolet Cobalt
majesticwi
Member Posts: 5
I was wondering if it is possible for the wireless key flob to go out of synch with the vehicle's receiver and if so how to re-synch it?
My key flob worked one day and quit the next. Tested the flob's battery and it was good. Tried another battery, no luck there either. The second key flob is in my daughter's dorm room at college so I can't do a comparision to see if it is the vehicle or flob. The only thing that occurred between the flob working and not was that the vehicle was in for an oil change. In fact the flob was used to unlock the vehicle in order to get to the oil change and wasn't used again till the next morning when it didn't work. I was thinking that possibly a fuse was pulled to reset the oil reminder and the keyless remote was reset by accident.
Any info, much appreciated!
My key flob worked one day and quit the next. Tested the flob's battery and it was good. Tried another battery, no luck there either. The second key flob is in my daughter's dorm room at college so I can't do a comparision to see if it is the vehicle or flob. The only thing that occurred between the flob working and not was that the vehicle was in for an oil change. In fact the flob was used to unlock the vehicle in order to get to the oil change and wasn't used again till the next morning when it didn't work. I was thinking that possibly a fuse was pulled to reset the oil reminder and the keyless remote was reset by accident.
Any info, much appreciated!
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I had the dealer check into the problem and they informed me that the alarm is working as it should. That the alarm will only deactivate when the ignition is turned on if the vehicle is entered using a key. This would indicate that the owner's manual is in error. I contacted a Chevrolet Customer Service Rep for a definative answer, but they weren't much help and they referred me back to the dealer.
I was wondering what experience other 2005 Cobalt owners are having with the alarm deactivation?
That's the way it's suppose to work.
I will assume at this point that the alarm is working as it should and that the owner's manual is in error.
Thanks again for the help!
Thanks in advance for any help!
All the best!
Mikieb
2 - Does he rotate his tires as requested by the manufacturer?
3 - Does he change his tires for "cheap" brands? You get what you pay for.
It's almost unbelievable. 60,000 miles and 6 sets of tires? It's the first time I hear this.
And you say that he doesn't drive fast nor reckless and he does his maintenance service regularly ? Hmmmm!
Something is definitively wrong here.
1. I removed the RADIO fuse and the BCM (SDM) fuse for 1 minute from the interior fuse panel. The fob receiver is tied in with the power to the radio and the BCM is a module that is tied in with the receiver.
2. Re-install the two fuses.
3. Press the UNLOCK and LOCK buttons on the key fob for 15 seconds, then release.
4. The key fob is now in synch and will work. I don't know if you have to do the "unlock/lock" procedure for all the key fobs as I didn't have the second one available to try. Only ill effect is that you will have to reset the radio's clock and any radio stations that were preset.
You can bet the next time the vehicle goes in for an oil change I will tell them if they don't know how to reset the oil reminder then just leave it for me. *!%#&*!@$!#% :mad:
Typically just letting a car parts counter guy check codes and tell you that because a certain code appears it means a certain item is bad and needs replaced usually gets expensive. The cause of the code needs to be determined; often the cause is something somewhere else.
I don't know if the more general forums for Cobalt here have people who know those things for the Cobalt or not: I'd suggest
Cobalt or there are some other internet forums you might try.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0443 EVAP Emission Control System Purge Valve C Fault
I went to get it inspected and the inspection staion told me it failed the test due to the gas cap and i returned the next day with the gas cap and they told me that its not ready for inspection. And when i shut the car off the only codes come up are the P0102 and the P0443.
I changed them and the light is on and i asked the Service Station at the Chevy Dealer and they told me i have to get the codes reset and drive the car around and put any where from 50 to 200 miles on the highway and stop and go traffic area and the computer should be reset itself. Ill let you know how it goes after i get it reset.
I have had several services performed. I have had the transmission flushed of the fluid and new fluid added, the dealer has reflashed my computer and I have had the throttle body replaced but nothing has worked. I took my mechanic for a test ride awhile ago and the is how we replaced the throttle body and I thought that would of fixed the problem, but it didn't.
Also my car has seemed to have lost it's pick-up from this problem. It is hard to go from a complete stop to start again going up a hill or anything that has an incline. This shuttering problem happens when my engine is warm and has been driven for a little while. The way i get it to happen is I apply my foot to the gas pedal very lightly and it will start to shutter and then slam into first gear. What it feels like is the wheels are moving, but the car itself is not ready to drive just yet. The RPM's go up, but the car does not go.
I have had this problem for a long time and I need transmission help from anyone that has any kind of experience with this. If there is someone out there that has had this problem before and got it fixed, please let me know what they did so I can tell my mechanic so it gives us something else to look into. Any suggestions of what to do at this point would be appreciated, but I think I am at the point where it is something internal in the transmission that needs to be fixed. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!! I am tired to taking my car to the shop and not getting this fixed.
I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into your situation further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Anyway, suggest that to your service rep it'll be a good place to continue. How many miles do you have? And what are your thoughts on timing chains?
On the timing chain question I really don't have an answer. I have never really thought about the timing chain at all.
if you could let me know how much a new TCM cost? and if this issue sounds similar to your own? I'd love to know. I don't have money for an expensive fix. :sick: :confuse:
We would be happy to look into your situation further, although we cannot guarantee what the results will be up front. Please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can set up a Service Request: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
The problem with parts, labor and tax, at the dealership came to ~$750.
The next day I was still getting the same issue with the jerking, and the sputtering,
My issue though, is that it's STILL jerking, and shuttering, which is what i put the car in the shop for. :mad: Now I'm being told that they need 5 "certified" hours to be able to look into the sealed Transmission to SEE what the real problem is @ $101/hr. Translating to $505.00 just to SEE what this issue MIGHT be.
As of the moment I haven't had the TMC changed or recoded yet, I did do a flush and it doesn't seem to have helped anything. I'm really not a car person like this, and i feel like those sharks at the dealership know it, and are basically out to rob me blind.
I will Say that i have loved my car for every moment that I've had it except when it's needed fixing, b/c while i think the product wasn't bad, the face of GM that is at the dealership, those uncaring, half-hearted, barley sympathetic folks make me hard pressed to ever want another GM product again.
As it is, I'm honestly looking at the next fix, if that doesn't work I'm now saving for a new car, and I'm pretty sure it wont be another Chevy after all this.
My car is turning out to be a :lemon:
Mileage: 83,300
Previous Repairs(that i've had done): Sunroof Motor (twice), Driver's side window motor, fuses on the driver-side heated seats, taillight's going out about once every 6 months - a year, 1 headlight, had the keyless remote recoded - it broke again and i left it that way, and the recall b/c it could get someone killed; had the power steering column changed out.
Other random issues i had a problem but it never happened again or is just not THAT problematic: break light warning: just randomly comes on - doesn't stay on, just likes to flash a happy little hello :surprise:, for a while my automatic door-locks would play a drumbeat going off and back on before just staying either locked or unlocked, keyless remote finally broke again after having it recoded - that lasted about 6 months before it broke. Something, Not sure what exactly b/c i haven't bothered to have it fixed, is that my key gets stuck in the ignition, making it so that i cant turn my car off. Another reason i hate the dealers is that they told me that i could leave the key in the car, just make sure everything was turned off and that i should be able to make it in, in the morning. This was a bald-faced-lie, as i had a 1 ton paperweight when i woke up the next day. THAT issue i found a fix for online, which is to just use the emergency key release. For anyone with that issue, you can go here:
Was dead. :surprise:
Had to crank it again and it just seemed to be fine as it was, THAT hasn't happened again yet but yeah...
:lemon: !!!
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Sarah, GM Customer Service