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2010 VW Golf
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Comments
I get at least 25 to 26 in town especially when I get to forty.On the Hiway I get 31 -32 @ 60mph w/o Cruise Control the engine going up hill on CC burns gas according to the MFD.
I didn't think I'd like this car but it's fun to drive,.corners greatand no noise from road or weather elements. Why , its insulated under whell wells alot quicker and quieter than my 2008 Mazda. I tried a Mini but bougt the Tht dub.
You might look at the Invisible Bra, I think it uses 3M material. Somewhat expensive, but if you protect the leading edges of the hood, bumper, and maybe the rearview mirrors, they will look as good as the rest of the car after 200k or 300k miles.
Do not buy any aftermarket product paint sealant from the dealership. They will try to sell you something, can't remember what it's called but it's like throwing away $300-500.
You will love the Golf. Mine has almost 310k miles and it's still a wonderful car, as much fun to drive as when it was new -- or maybe better, I've added a few extras over the years.
If you have not joined the TDI Club, you should ASAP. www.tdiclub.com
Don't buy anythinything from dealer is right.($ 500.00)they said they give it back when I buy again and I never have to wax again.
When I bought a 2002 RSX type S that was my first clear mask I did it myself with baby schampoo and a hair dryer, but if I was u go to some tint shop or ask some kid who does it.I did buy from weather tech a cargo liner and front floor mats and saved alot.
Never ever thought I get a V dub again,because of the problems they have had.
However, the TDI has been a good car and it's solid. I tried a Mazda way too noisy and not insulated like the TDI or Golf.We got the Dub for trips to home depot and the thin air in the Rockies as soon as the continental dive and Loveland pass opens again. We are really going to test it. Oh, I forgot 2 of my cars came with clear 3m already on front and rear bumpers. So I sent the Extra back to Texas. :shades:
The TDI is just right though weight and HP. VW has gotten it right. They do go fast off the lot.
I am not privvy to the specific torque-curve for your TDI engine... but I have to assume that 2500 RPM seems WAYYY too high for a TDI engine efficency... sure, it wont hurt the engine, but you would be near the "empty revs" portion of the RPM range.
"empty revs" is a technical-term which means you are spinning the engine faster but not getting any more power out of it. (based on HP and torque curves of the engine)
I am not advocating "lugging" an engine... "lugging" below engine-speed where the turbocharger is stable is not a good thing. However, overrevving beyond the torque-peak is unnecessarry - especially on a TDI engine.
Perhpas you should learn more about the torque-curve of your TDI engine. Using that data, you can adjust your driving-style to acheive best MPG. (Try to stay in the "fat" part of the torque-curve)
I have 2 gassers and the bombTDI. I always look at the tach to check my speed and freewheeling on the road. 35rpm =about 70 on highway.When I down shifted I just try to keep it out of the red.That"s wifes car and mineThe TDI does get the best mpg @ 1800 but it must have a limiter doesn't it? I'll tell you something about that Audi, and we had 3 on the East Coast and 3 in the west, toughest car I ever drove.
Thanks I'll check with service next week. Oh, how many miles a year would you have to drive in justifying the purchase of the TDI? I was ask that, and told my friend I didn't know ,I just bought it cause it suited our needs. We are coming East in 3 weeks and I'm storing the VW until next Oct. thanks
ANSWER: Why does your friend feel that "miles per year" would be a suitable metric for justifying the purchase of the TDI?
I think your answer to him was just right!
I am not sure I have ever met anyone that can "justify" why they purchsed a specific vehicle. (using raw numbers as an answer) I beleive this is because everyones definition of "justify" may be different. One person may like how the seats feel on their [non-permissible content removed]... the next person may like the smell of the exhaust.
If one wishes to use raw numbers... Being an engineer, I have a spreadsheet showing every drop of fuel ever pumped into my TDI. I can give you all kinds of "metrics"... but for me, the SINGLE most useful number is "Cost Per Mile". This is because "Cost Per Mile" can be used to compare ANY 2 vehicles reguardless of fuel-type. (Propane, electricty, gasoline, diesel...etc)
BTW: The "Cost Per Mile" for my 2003 TDI is $0.05 per mile averaged over 100,000 miles. You would be hard-pressed to find another vehicle which comes close to that!!
As a comparison, my 2006 Subaru Baja "Cost Per Mile" is $0.12 per mile. (over double!)
Possibly the point the earlier poster was trying to make was that over 100K miles, that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.
I agree with you that cost/mile is a terrific way to evaluate one car against another, but ALL the costs have to be included to make it a fair comparison. As you pointed out, the relative value one places on CPM vs. having a 700 mile range & bags of torque, vs. driving the flavor of-the-month Pious instead of a sturdy diesel vehicle, etc. is all over the map.
As they say, WMMV.
To each their own. :shades:
Lastly, the extra price at purchase for a VW with a TDI engine is not really a cost of ownership, since the resale value after 3 years or 5 years is equally high. At least in the past, the gas-engine models lost more value than the diesel-engine one. And if you go back around 8-10 years, the gas-engine models are so cheap that they are rarely worth fixing if something serious goes wrong; but the 1998-1999 TDI Jettas, Golf,and NBs, and the 1996-1997 Passat TDIs, are all still worth fixing and owning.
What premium? Here in CA the largest auto market diesel is less than RUG for about half the year. Currently at my local Shell station, RUG is $3.12 and ULSD is $2.99. The highest priced RUG is $3.89 and the highest price for ULSD is $3.39. That makes the RUG burning Golf about 40% more expensive just for gas. For me I would get the GTI if I was to buy a gas burner. That would make the TDI even better against premium. Over the last year ULSD has never been more than Premium gas here in So CA.
As far as initial cost, and depreciation. You will most certainly get a higher rate of depreciation with the Golf gasser. Plus selling the TDI yourself is a lot easier. The demand for used VW oil burners is always high.
What premium?
I was referring to an earlier-referenced premium for the vehicle/engine, not the fuel. Maybe the diesel in the Golf is the same price as the gas engine, but in some vehicles it's hard to get the diesel without significant additional cost, part of which is often an upgraded accessory/feature package.
that was with a 35x2 mile commute, plus lots of kid-shuttling on weekdays & weekends. multiply by 2, because kids' mama was doing almost the same miles/year.
If you really feel the need to factor in the scheduled maintenance... The TDI costs LESS than gasser due to longer OCI and no ignition system to maintain.
If you really feel the need to factor in resale-cost... the TDI ALWAYS holds it value over gasser. I drive my vehicles into the ground till there is very little value left because this is the most economical way to own a vehicle. Hence, I dont give a $%$# about resale value. I simply bank what I would have paid in monthy car-payments. When the time comes, I pay cash for my next Diesel-hybred!!
Heck, I have not even run thru the 12Year/Unlimited milage warrante on my 2003 TDI yet.
The car rides very well, is very quiet, climbed the mountain pass (about 2500 ft) between Vegas and Pahrump without a down shift or drop in speed on cruse, and left me quite satisfied with my choice of this vehicle.
The TDI and DSG auto work well together, keeping the revs low while the torque brings smiles leaving the lights. I haven't used the sport mode yet, but will after another 1000 miles or so.
No complaints. A good, comfortable, sporty vehicle that performs very well and is very economical. I expect to see 50+ mpg highway mileage as the engine breaks in.
Why doesn't everyone drive one of these? :shades:
50 mpg may be achieved by steady cruising for long periods of time when the speed is kept 55 mph to 63 mph. Don't expect 50 mpg, you will likely be disappointed with current TDI as they typically will deliver 40 to 45 mpg highway, even after break in.
TDI engines take a long time to break-in completely; even after 20k miles there will still be gradual improvements in engine performance and fuel economy. If you baby the engine now, it will take longer to achieve all the potential it has to offer. So for at least the first 3k-4k miles, keep track of your fuel mileage but do not drive so as to maximize fuel mileage.
Lastly, the use of cruise control is not recommended with a new TDI engine. On long trips this is unreasonable. So what you can do is, about every 10-15 minutes, when the traffic is clear, drop down a gear, let the car slow, let's say from 70 to 55, then accelerate briskly to 75 or so before putting it back in top gear and resuming cruise control at 70. If you really want to accelerate the break-in process, then there is a method but it will only work if you're traveling alone since it will drive your passenger(s) crazy with constant speed changes.
Real world hills and wind will pull these numbers down, but if you look at the euro spec models mileage ratings, these vehicles are capable of 50+ mpg on the highway.
I'll update in a few weeks... :shades:
The MPG numbers you see from EPA and most magazines are NOT reflective of real-world acheivement. Instead, they are based on engines which are still "tight" and worse, may have been poorly broken-in.
Spend some time reading about the high-MPG folks at TDIclub. com and you will start to understand what I am saying here.
I am extremely confident that I could get 60 mpg with a TDI. It may be my next purchase, but still a lot of life in the Accord so it could be a while.
I couldn't be happier with this car. The ride is quiet and solid with fast pick-up, it feels right at home doing 70, and the sound system is fantastic. My only problem is - I will probably never make it into 6th gear - 5th gear was cruising at 70 mph with plenty of room to spare.
Long highway trips should NOT be undertaken with new engine. Instead, take the back roads with lots of stop-n-go so you can apply the crutial accelleration / decelleration process that seats the rings before the piston-walls glaze.
Expect well above 55 MPG on the highway once the engine is properly toned.
Now about driving in 6th - I'm in the habit of downshifting when the rpms drop below 2000. When I was doing 70 it was running at 2300 in 5th gear. So it sounds like I should be running at lower rpms to get into 6th. What's your lower range of rpms for highway cruising?
The engine computer will put your TDI engine into "limp mode" if you try to do something that will damage the turbo. This is more likely to happen if you stomp on the accelerator at 1500-1800 RPM in a high gear, or try to accelerate briskly if your engine is already under a heavy load at low RPM.
In case of "limp mode", you have to do an engine restart. I have done this a couple times over the years by just pushing in the clutch and doing a quick restart; but of course it is much safer to pull off the road first.
The advice I give here applies for the life of the car. During the break-in period, the driver should not be babying the engine or at least not babying it all the time.
An engine-designer needs to consider a large number of variables when developing a new design. Sure, one of them may be cost... but that is often near the bottom of the list.
A belt-driven cam has a lot of advantages over chain.
*)Less Weight
*)no lubrication required
*) Power-pulses of diesel engine can tear a chain up pretty quick while belt is more forgiving.
*)Belt replacement is 100,000 miles on my TDI...not a big deal.
A chain DOES wear out and WILL need to be replaced at some point. With the beating from a diesel-engine, it may be LESS than 100,000 miles. (even gear-driven may not stand up to the beating.)
Why do you think that Harley Davenson motorcycles use BELT DRIVE to rear wheel instaead of chain?... because the belt lasts longer than chain with a big , pulsing, engine. (the belt soaks up the pulses...a chain would break prematurley)
If the presense of a belt-driven cam is the ONLY reason you are staying away... then I feel your reasoning is flawed.
Let me ask you these things....
Are you aware that the pully on the TDI alternator is specially designed specifically because the diesel engine can decellerate faster than the alternator rotor?
Are you aware that the teeth on the clean-diesel timing-belt pullies have variable-spacing specifically to compensate for the power-pulses from the crankshaft?
Bottom line... you are making a mistake when you second-guess the German engineers who designed the engine. (they know what they are doing)
So visit www.tdiclub.com and check out the "recommended TDI mechanics" sticky thread for a TDI expert near your location. Then ask for a review of the nearby mechanics from club members who have used their services. VW dealerships should be avoided after the warranty period -- this is not just my opinion, despite the efforts of Stefan Jacoby (the president of VWoA) the dealership service departments still suck.
Thanks!
Chains and gear-driven valve-timing systems tend to be found in the more-expensive engines -- not only because they are more expensive to design and manufacture, but because they are more expensive to maintain. The typical middle-class driver cannot afford to buy or maintain the high-priced cars with chain-driven timing systems. That does not mean timing belts are an inferior solution to the problem, however,
Porsche timing belt
I assume you referring only to diesel engines with that comment and this one:
The typical middle-class driver cannot afford to buy or maintain the high-priced cars with chain-driven timing systems.
:confuse:
I've got short legs and need to lower the seat more than I currently can in the Golf. the adjustability of the GTI autobahn seats really work for me and are about the most comfortable seats I've ever driven in.
Any comments, advice?
Thanks,
Bo.
>>40 mpg with TDI no matter what kind of driving I do.
(the passat TDI only got 37 mpg tank after tank).
they amazing/unstoppable in snow/ice with blizzaks, until
the snow gets too deep for the ground clearance.
you haven't driven fwd in 15 years?
you'll probably like FWD in snow but aside from that you might not like it so much!
2010 Volkswagen Golf 4dr HB Auto PZEV - listed at $20,929. What's a fair reasonable price I can get it at?
Invoice is $19,262.00, correct? I'm just trying to find out what deals others have gotten and what is a realistic target price to really counter them with and stand pat on.
Thanks in advance, I apologize if its on the wrong forum, but I've looked around and couldnt find a "I paid this much for my Golf...," thread.
Regards,
Vic
But I remember when the Mk5 Jetta came out, halfway through the 2005 model year, and was designated as the 2005.5 Jetta. The TDI version had lots of extra features which were then made extra-cost options on the 2006 model. So there are some 2005.5's with a particular trim level that are highly sought-after, by those who pay attention to the minutiae.