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Mazda 626 Bad Idle

hunterman3hunterman3 Member Posts: 1
edited August 2014 in Mazda
I have a 2000 626 4 cyl 4 door car. When it is cool outside it runs great. When it gets over 90 deg. outside it runs bad. The check engine light came on and the code was number 2 cyl misfire. Only dose it at idle. The shop said Plugs. I changed the plugs, wires and coil pack. No luck. Next it the fuel injectors. The dealer wants $1200.00 for a new set and that is not installed. Any ideals before I wast that much cash.
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  • blondie0427blondie0427 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used Mazda 626. When I stop, it stalls and seems to have a rough idle. Anyone having these issues and is there a quick fix?
  • johnr16johnr16 Member Posts: 14
    I have 99 626 2 liter ...lousy hot start.. bad idle...Put Bosch premium platinum 2 plugs in it....Not perfect, but a big differnce..You might want to check your fuel pressure regulator..Also if you have the ford cd4e auto trans..JUNK..!! this could be part of the problem.
  • johnr16johnr16 Member Posts: 14
    My 99 626 2L. auto 99000 0n it has been running well but lately if it's warmed up and sitting idling ..like when checking the tranny fld. It will stall but it will start right back up..run for a while and then stall again...also the check engine light comes on and will stay on for a couple of days.. then go back out again.. I'm going to clean the MAF and see if that helps..any ideas.??? Also mileage not great..only about 26 mpg..should be better...Thanks..!!
  • johnr16johnr16 Member Posts: 14
    Replaced the I.A.C.valve on the throttle body...problem solved..car is still junk..getting rid of it as soon as possible...going back to chevy..a new Malibu with a v6 in it..If I had known that this thing was basically a ford probe I never would have bought it..almost a 100k on it and it looks like It's going to nickle and dime me to death..200+ bucks for the iac at auto zone..Too much..!!
  • jefferz71jefferz71 Member Posts: 4
    I bought this 626 a year ago. It has 235000 on it and up until two days ago, still ran like a champ. It all of the sudden started stalling when I would come to a stop at a light or intersection. I could get it started again but would have to give it gas to keep it running. It did this about 5 times then ran fine. The next day I drove to work and it was running fine. On the way home it started stalling again. This time it was harder to get started and when it would start it had a very low idle. I'm going to hook it up to the computer to find the code. Oh the engine light is on too. Anybody have any ideas as to what I need to replace before I go and buy a computer to diagnose it? :sick:
  • motoniwasimotoniwasi Member Posts: 3
    i have developed exactly the same problem with by 1989 626 hatch ..what is an IAC valve
  • jefferz71jefferz71 Member Posts: 4
    I am not sure what the problem is exactly. I drove the car to an autoparts store and plugged in their computer. The result was a "P0443 error....Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit". I asked the guy if it was the pcv and he didn't seem to think so. He said that it would be best to take to a mechanic and have them smoke test it. My best friend is a mechanic and I am taking it to him this coming weekend. I need to add that the problem I have with the car only occurs when it has warmed up. While it is still cool, the car runs great. Keep me posted if you find out anything; I will do the same.
  • jefferz71jefferz71 Member Posts: 4
    Well here is the update. I was convinced that it was the IAC valve. I tested it and tested it and tested it and all things pointed to the IAC. So I started searching for one. Good luck finding one under $325.00. Most places want upwards of $600.00 for it. I was lucky enough to find a guy that was parting out a '96 626 4 cyl 5 sp. I was going to get it from him for $30.00. Before I went to pick up the part, I farted around with the engine some more and the IAC was working. The idle was fine and I couldn't get it to stall on me anymore even when it was warmed up. I did notice some water in the electrical connector and determined that the water was messing up the connection. I drove it for about 30 mins and no stall. Problem solved! I drove the car to work today and the damn thing stalled on me sooner than it normally would have before. I got home and started looking around some more. I decided I was going to pull the IAC off and see if I can get a better test with my meter if it is off. In order to get it off, you need to remove the throttle body. I removed the air intake hose and found coolant in the throttle body pooled up. What the hell?! This car is really starting to piss me off. Anybody know why there is coolant in my throttle body? :mad:
  • motoniwasimotoniwasi Member Posts: 3
    fellas

    I have been following this subject very closely because i have the same problem.
    I have changed the following - Air flow meter, plugs , ignition wires , distributer cap and rotor ( this was very old and carbonised) air filter, oil change( including oil filter) and just this mornng I cleaned the throttle - the list goes on. The engine is very smooth now after all renewed componenets except for the fact that it stops in a few minutes of idling. I have almost given up now ... i will take this for a long drive later today and if that does not help then not sure what next ... but will keep you posted ...
  • jefferz71jefferz71 Member Posts: 4
    So I have been messing around with this car now for 3 weeks. My last post stated that I had found coolant in my throttle body. Well I figured out that it was coming from the IAC. You see, coolant travels from the thermostat into the throttle body and then up into the IAC housing and then returns to the thermostat. There is an oval shaped o-ring that seats between the throttle body housing and the IAC housing. This o-ring had gone bad. I got back in touch with the guy that was parting out that car and he still had the part I needed. So I went up and got the throttle body and the IAC from his parts car for $45.00. I put that on and the idle is a little better but still rough. I am now thinking that it may the purge valve. So does anybody know how to test the purge valve? I can get one for around $85.00 online but don't want to buy one unless thats the problem. Let me know.
  • sexypasrsexypasr Member Posts: 1
    Does any one know where I can get a "FREE" PDF on this subject?

    Thx
  • papagatorpapagator Member Posts: 1
    The car starts right up every time. It will not stay at an even idle once I shift to drive. If I don't give it gas to move it will lope and cut off. Neutral or park and she starts right up.I have to act like a standard shift to keep all things working. It is getting a little worse every day. I am puzzled at the engine running good with hard throttle and cruise speeds. The stop lights give me a lot of difficulty. I don't want to carry my family in the car until this problem is remedied. I would appreciate a little help. Thanks
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