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2010 Chevy Equinox Problems

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Comments

  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I doubt there is a car on the market that don't have a electronic (computer) controled transmission. There are millions and millions of cars on the road and most operate well. You just got a little bad luck. As emissions get stricker and stricker more and more electronics are going to be on cars. Only way around it is getting a old car from the 60's.
  • jrcketjrcket Member Posts: 9
    Well I don't doubt that everything now is electronic and there are alot of bugs that affect the cars. I guess I expected more from the Equinox because I own a 2002 Suburban which is a trouble free car, not one problem on it till today.

    I guess I can chalk this one up to bad luck and wait and see if this will happen again
  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    I bought my '97 Taurus wagon brand new at the beginning of '98. About a year or so later, the transmission started doing some weird shifting while my wife was driving it. Speedometer would drop to zero while cruising on the highway, cruise control wouldn't work, and the car would shift up and down erratically. After a couple of test drives, it happened for me. Check Engine light came on, code showed bad vehicle speed sensor ($35). Changed it myself and the car's been fine for 12 years now.

    Same problem occurred with my Dad's '97 Taurus sedan, so it was a bad batch of sensors. It can happen with any car, but maybe some manufacturers have better quality control over the production of these sensors - any one of which can fail and degrade your vehicle's performance (if not stop it all together).

    That's why I'm not a big fan of all the electronics they're putting in vehicles today. I think they've gone WAY too far already. OK, put the sensors in the engine to make it run more efficiently (if you have to), but what about things like that STUPID electronic touchpad on the liftgate of the Equinox. Now who's the IDIOT designer (or group of designers) who came up with THAT one? Totally unnecessary and doomed to fail. Not to mention that's it's awkward to use! An old-fashioned mechanical latch should've been installed. They last forever with little or no trouble and are easy to replace if they fail. But it MUST'VE been about the money (again)! It must've been less expensive to put the touchpad in (both in terms of part cost and installation time), and if it lasts 5-6 years, that's good enough because most people don't keep their cars longer than that.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    I see there are others who feel the same as I do. Glad to know I'm not alone on this. At least in the examples you just wrote.

    The touch pad will cost less no doubt, but is also lighter which they are also trying to keep tabs on. The hatch on a Kia Forte i checked out a month ago, had something similar by the sounds of things. (I have not seen the Nox one) If you pressed it too lightly or slowly, it would unlatch but only part way! You had to be quite deliberate with the press. Plus they are always in a really dirty place. Who wants to have to get their hands or gloves that dirty to have to touch a pad? At least if they don't dry out in time, and are sealed welled, they may resist corrosion longer than a keyed latch.

    I say bring back the cable pull, or button operated electric solenoid even if they do add some weight. The trunk lid 'pops' and usually u can find a cleaner place to open it the rest of the way with a finger on the inside edge where it is clean.
  • jrcketjrcket Member Posts: 9
    Hahaha colthero, that is exactly how I feel. What the heck the TCM switch fails and I can't open the trunk.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Good idea. Trading cars everytime you have a problem and you may be in debt as much as this country is :-)
  • jrcketjrcket Member Posts: 9
    damthews3,

    Who said I trade cars everytime I have a problem? In fact we have a 1997 E320 that we owned since new and a 2002 Suburban we owned since new. These two cars have been trouble free since we bought them. I mean no out of the ordinary problems, but we kept them up to date with all services.

    Bought a new Equinox and a simple TCM switch going out causes undrivability- the car dosen't even have a limp mode to allow you to drive it to safety. Plus the damn rear hatch won't open and I can't get my tools out of the back.

    So my friend I am sorry if I might contributedto the country's debt because I am considering a trade even at a loss. I believe as long as I pay my bills on time I am golden.

    Joey
  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    edited January 2011
    Seems like with the touchpad on my Equinox, I have to press it twice to get it to unlatch. I haven't completely read the Owner's Manual yet ... maybe that's the way it is, but it's awkward to use. It also says NOT to press on the pad after the liftgate is opened. Well, THAT'S pretty stupid. Your hand is reaching into this "pocket" to open the liftgate. What are you supposed to be doing ... grabbing the liftgate by the bottom lip?

    Here's another stupid one for ya: Unlike the 2010, with the 2011 model they decided to package the power seat with the camera and remote start in what they called the "Driver Convenience Package". Wonderful! I don't want the power seat due to the height difference between my wife and I. Its an inconvenience, a nuisance, and with all the movement back and forth it could fail in a position where one of us could not drive the vehicle. So because of the IDIOTS at GM, I had to forego the camera and remote start.

    The power seat should ALWAYS be a separately-added option. It should NEVER be bundled with other un-related options.

    Still don't like the door lock button in the middle of the dash, either. I also can't stand keyfobs on my keyring - especially the MONSTER-SIZED one for the Equinox. WAY TOO BIG! I'm hoping I can get just a standard key for my keyring, but that'll mean using the center door lock button - which is inconvenient when I have to open the back door to take my things out before locking and closing the doors. Should've put the switches on the doors. That's where everyone expects them to be.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I never said you trade cars everytime you have a problem, my point was if you take your current attitude (getting rid of the E because of one problem) then going forward if you take that same attitude you will be so far in the red as you will never get what you paid for the vehicle so each time you lose more. This could be the only problem you ever have with it. I could see dumping it if you have had problem after problem but you aren't. I hope you keep and enjoy it for many years to come. I know I really like mine. I have had other G.M.'s with problems and one time dumped it after dealer couldn't fix it right but that was way back when they had price increases many times during the year and I got almost as much on trade as I paid for it orginally. I still stay with the Big 3 even though some don't think they are quality cars but I believe in the bigger picture and can't see substadizing another countrys government, schools and roads when ours needs it more.
  • jrcketjrcket Member Posts: 9
    edited January 2011
    Oh ok, yeah I was just venting I love the Nox but I think that from my experience with the Suburban I had high hopes that it would be problem free (maybe too high). Also not being to open and get my tools from the trunk didn't help.

    BTW, its been 4 days now and the part has not yet come in so my car is stranded at the dealership. :mad:
  • tommy312tommy312 Member Posts: 15
    Reading all the blogs is making me second guess buying the enox & rethinking the outback :confuse:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Just remember that most here are here because of a problem of some kind. There are many, many out there just driving their Nox without a worry. I'm sure if you go to a Outback forum you will find unhappy people there.
  • tommy312tommy312 Member Posts: 15
    True
  • jrcketjrcket Member Posts: 9
    Got my Nox back! After 5 days of waiting for the part. They had to replace the Internal Mode Switch (IMS) in the trans. They had to take out the valve body to get to the switch then replaced the fluid. I hope this time this switch dosen't fail right away.
  • calidriver999calidriver999 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2010 Equinox LT2 V6 and am having a recurring problem with the Service Air Bag light and (annoying) chime coming on. I took the car in to the local Chevy dealer 2 months after I got it and they fixed it. Then a month later it went on again (at 4000 miles). They first said it could be wiring under the driver's seat, then they had to order a new part. Now it's happened again, only problem is the original dealer (Bay Bridge in Oakland, CA) is out of business (or rather, bought out by a new owner who is opening back up this month). The Novato dealer (35 miles away) did a diagnostic on it and said I couldn't get a rental car from them because the repair might not take over 6 hours (I told them the first repair took 3 days). I am definitely not happy with the quality issues with this car even though I LOVE the way it drives and is equipped compared with the car it replaced - 2008 Toyota Highlander Ltd. But the problems are a nuisance. I didn't see any other discussions related to this problems... anyone else having the same issues?
  • calidriver999calidriver999 Member Posts: 2
    Oh, I forgot to add that the first dealer wouldn't let me drive the car after bringing it in, saying if the airbag wasn't working properly it was a serious safety issue, and they gave me a loaner car; the Novato dealership told me to come back when it was "convenient" for me and sent me on my merry way with no airbags! So I haven't been driving the car for a month just waiting for the closer dealer to open back up. One of the biggest pains I've noticed is that the dealer closest to my business closed, and so now it is really inconvenient getting this car serviced. I was thinking of getting the new SRX after the lease on this Nox is up, but now I don't think I will. GM has a ways to go to improve both products and customer service. This was the one shot I was giving GM since I haven't had a GM product since 1986, and they pretty much screwed up.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    pachief1,
    I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice. If you have any other questions feel free to email me.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    clebo1,
    Can you please email me with you case number? I would like to look into this for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • 10monoxowner10monoxowner Member Posts: 1
    This past week was driving in the Monster Snow Storm that hit 2/3 of the country. After driving in heavy snow for about 15 minutes, I get a message on the info center in the center of the dash "All Wheel Drive is turned OFF" with a 4 wheel symbol with a line through it. WHAT??? This is why I have ALL WHEEL DRIVE! Called On Star - got some foreign guy who couldn't speak "English" and comes back to tell me to stop and turn off the car and back on. It should reset itslef. WHAT? In the middle of the road in the middle of the biggest snow storm to hit the US and I am supposed to turn off my vehicle. I took it to the dealer and they put it on the computer and could not find any codes and they offered no information as to why it turned "OFF" or how to get it back on. AWD really DOES make a differnce.
    Anyone have any ideas or advice for the next snow storm?
  • kzk8brownkzk8brown Member Posts: 12
    I was thinking one of the best things about the Nox was how wonderful it handles the snowy roads. I am sure you are aware that there is a button that can turn off the AWD and that was not the issue?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    There is NO BUTTON to turn off the AWD. The only button is to turn off the traction control, which is way different.
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    I'm not familiar with the 2011 Nox but I do have an AWD vehicle. I know that on some AWD systems when driving driving in deep snow (or mud or sand) for a period of time the AWD system may automatically switch to FWD to prevent overheating. You might want to check with GM or your Owner's Manual to see if this is the case.
  • hancock33hancock33 Member Posts: 2
    Just got my Equinox back for the second fuel pump replacement. I am told that this is the third redesign of the fuel pump and that this should "fix" the problem. So far out of the 6 months I have had my vehicle it has been at the dealership awaiting parts and getting "fixed" for about 30 days. This is unacceptable. Oh, it still sounds as if the fuel pump is bad but the dealership says they can't hear the problem Go figure!
  • dowopdowop Member Posts: 25
    My backup camera was damaged do to vandalism. I knew it would be not covered under warranty.
    The camera cost $152.00 & the labor was $140.00 with a 10% discount the bill was a $290.00.
    It took the Dealer 30 minutes to replace it.

    Does this seem like a fair charge?
  • rocketentrocketent Member Posts: 60
    Ouch!! For that much, it would seem like you should be able to take videos or at least take pictures. Hmm, actually not a bad idea. If my cam ever goes, I'm going to look into something that records.
  • dowopdowop Member Posts: 25
    I think I might change Dealerships.
    This is probably a stupid question but could I make a complaint to someone other than arguing with the Dealership?
  • rocketentrocketent Member Posts: 60
    Now that I think about it, using GM original parts with dealer markup, that's probably the high end of what those things would go for. Was it only the lens that was damaged? If so, I still think that's high. You might want to take the part(s) number(s) from your receipt and call a few other dealers to get their prices, then average them out. Same with labor, there should be a standard fee for replacing a lens.

    If it turns out that your dealer over charged you, you might want to approach them nicely and ask if they made a mistake, then request a credit with the parts or service department.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    The camera as an option on a brand-new vehicle is worth around $300. It sounds like that's the number the dealership was using to bill you.

    A co-worker installed his own camera on an '09 Traverse LS he bought used. He said it cost him around $70 (from a local store). So $152 for a GM camera sounds about right (double). $140 for labor sounds kind of high for a 30 minute job, but the shop probably charges a minimum time (looks like maybe 2 hours ??).

    You might be able to argue the labor down to one hour, giving you a refund of around $70, but that's probably the best you're going to do.
  • roho1roho1 Member Posts: 318
    It's hard to comment on this issue unless the op tells us exactly what parts were replaced and any other work done since it was vandalism.
  • dowopdowop Member Posts: 25
    edited February 2011
    The only part replaced was the camera & bracket for $152.00 & $140.00 labor charge. The only damage done was the camera bracket was broke due to someone trying to pry the camera out.

    I just returned from the Dealer & the service manager offered me 2 free oil changes & a tire rotation to make up for the high charge.
    I accepted.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    jrcket,
    I apologize for your experience. How did things go at the dealer? Has your issue been resolved. Please feel free to email me.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • roadrunner63roadrunner63 Member Posts: 3
    Gamehawker,

    Did you ever get a resolution to your oil consumption problem? I am having a similar issue with my 2010 Equinox. It is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks. I am now getting the "runaround" from the service group and the GM customer service group saying that this is "normal".

    Thank you.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Oil burning will eventually foul emission devices too. And possibly cause it to not pass annual emission testing if you have that in your state. Their wty is usually 8 years.
    Although, if the oil consumption continues to rise, you will probably be making an emission wty claim before your time runs out.

    My suggestion is to ensure you have the correct dipstick for your engine, so that you can rule out overfilling. Overfilling is also very bad as it puts undue pressure on various engine seals and will cause premature failure. Some though will last the wty period before they seep.
    When you check oil, so as per the owner's manual procedure. Level vehicle. best to check in the morning before the engine has been running since the day before. Waiting upwards of 30 min to an hour if the engine was completely warmed up, will also give you a pretty close indicator that enough has drained back into the sump area where the dipstick goes. But confirm the dipstick. Incorrect ones are more common in new vehicles than many realize. Check the part number, jive it with as many sources as you can working your way back right to the engine builder if need be. If the other poster gets back to you, have them check their build date and location also in case that would be a clue.
  • dhr328dhr328 Member Posts: 1
    I got my 2010 Equinox last July due to the published 32 EPA est values.
    We have driven it over 25K in 7 months due to long work commutes (90 miles each way, with 90% of it on the interstate highway). We put on the cruise while on the highway.
    Our overall MPG are 24.2! I am very disappointed in this performance for our commuter car. Otherwise, it is comfortable and sporty enough, but the reason we purchased it was due to the EPA.
    Any suggestions on how to boost this overall MPG??
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Don't have a nox, but in general from my experiance wih other GM vehicles I get the best milage when temps are above 45 or so. 55 MPH on the interstate is good also. Not sure if the Nox has a tach or not but if it does I think 1500~~> 1900 rpms for the V6 or perhaps 1900~~>2100 for the 4 might be good. Also if you have the instant economy display on D.I.C. you can use that as a guide. Your actual experiance/milage will or course stll vary ;)
  • terexterex Member Posts: 26
    If you have an L4 FWD, published EPA average fuel economy is 26; 23 with AWD. If you have a V6, less. Ambient temperatures, speed, jack-rabbit starts etc impact fuel economy as well. Got to relearn how to drive for better MPG.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I believe the 32 is figured at 55 mph and I'll bet a buck you are going a lot faster than that. Go 55 and I bet you beat the 32 mpg.
  • manda29manda29 Member Posts: 6
    can you please forward me the actual bullentin to dogotcham@yahoo.com.
    thanks
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Member Posts: 166
    Could you please send me the actual TSB as well? wallyuwl@yahoo.com Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2011
    The OP hasn't logged in for a few months; meanwhile the spam harvesters are here all the time sniffing out email addresses that people post.
  • hsports94hsports94 Member Posts: 4
    My 2010 Equinox is burning what I deem to be exceesive oil (and no leaks found). The dealership has found no issues with the engine and now wants me to bring in the car every 1000 miles to monitor the oil usage over the next 5000 miles. I have almost 30000 miles on my car. The first time noticed something wrong was about 20000 when the car started to stall. I brought it to the dealership and they questioned if I put oil in or changed the oil. I had the information from the places that had done the oil changes so the dealership then suggested that the last garage had underfilled the oil. I went to their garage the next time but I had pt in 2 quarts myself before the oilchange because I had a road trip and didn't want any issues. I had to put in anohter 2 quarts after that oil change befor emy latest oil change again as I was going on a road trip. The dealership wouldn't give me the metric to measure if there is a problem. I do commute about 60 miles round trip via highway everyday to work plus a lot of town driving for family errands. Any suggestions on how I should track and handle future situations with the dealership?
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Member Posts: 166
    Keep a log for two or three months, then bring that to the dealer as verification you are losing oil. They will then probably check for leaks, and if they don't find any then the obvious answer is it is consuming it. Then they'll start to look for that, which would be an internal engine issue.

    You might want to go to a different dealer if this one is giving you problems. Also keep an eye out for your mileage. I know the powertrain warranty is 5/100k, but just in case it is something not covered by that be sure that you are within the 36/36 bumper to bumper.
  • hsports94hsports94 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks - good idea. I think I will also check the oil myself to check for consistency against what the dealer says. The dealership isn't giving me any issues, but I want them to be clearer about how they are assessing this problem to determine the next steps. I just grabbed my warranty book to see what I can find.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    hsports94,
    An oil consumption test is the first steps for the dealer to determine the oil consumption to see if it is what is above what is deemed to be standard oil consumption. Please keep me updated on your progress. If you have any questions please feel free to email me.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Wally had some good suggestions I see you have read. This is the type of topic that there are so many variables it is hard to help over the internet. I recommend covering the bases I mentioned in my first post. It is a process of elimination when troubleshooting a suspected ailment. You start with the easiest things first and work your way up the ladder. But don't skip the easy steps. Make sure it has the right dipstick (get a second opinion, so you help rule out the yes-man answer) Then ensure it hasn't been over or underfilled (which sounds like you are trying to be on top of).

    In an effort to zero in on a brand's responsibility with a legit wty claim/repair, it often is as simple as comparing your car to the thousands like it out there. Oil consumption "acceptable parameters" are all pretty liberal. i.e. when they say it meets their guidelines, usually those guidelines are excessive oil usage and if ALL the cars like yours out there, all burned THAT amount of oil, then there would be a big uproar and the mfgr would have to address it. A lone voice is way harder to be heard or taken seriously.

    Regardless of their stated acceptable oil usage guidelines, if your car is using a far greater notable amount of oil, compared to your neighbour who has the same car and engine drivetrain etc. then they need to address it. Engines come off an assembly line all built with the intention of a consistent build quality. But sometimes a bad part is used (a scored ring, or a brittle piston ring that breaks) and if that happens in your car, then yours will be the one using way more oil than someone elses. What I am trying to say here, is emphasis should be on a relatively new car with few miles on it (under 50000) engines that have received the recommended oil change etc maintenance intervals, the engine should not be burning more than about half a quart between changes. Tops. My 4 cyl CRV with 51000 miles on it uses so little oil it is barely down on the stick between changes. (about 250ml). I expect that to maybe increase to 350 or 400 ml when I get to 100000 miles. BUT! Not necessarily. Many engines still only use about 1/4 quart even at 100k.
  • roadrunner63roadrunner63 Member Posts: 3
    gimmestdtranny,

    Thanks for your feedback on my 2010 Equinox oil burning issue.

    The dipstick is the correct version for my vehicle. Also, I have been monitoring the dipstick to see the oil usage. The service group and I agree that my vehicle is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks.

    The problem I am having now is that they are saying that is normal or within their limits; they are stringing me along. In my opionion, a new engine burning this much oil has a defect. Based on the users manual and the oil life gauge, I would have to put in several quarts of oil between oil changes. That is ridicule for a new engine.

    I can understand a factory defect because GM manufactures so many vehicles but the customer service response to my issue has been poor. I figure one more trip to the service department. If they still feel there is no problem, I think my only recourse is to see a lemon law attorney.
  • randyrealtorrandyrealtor Member Posts: 2
    I just had the oil changed at 3k miles (because it's been empty if wait until oil life indicator at 5k) in my 2010 Equinox and the oil didn't even show on the dip stick which he said would be 3 quarts low. 3 quarts in 3000 miles!?!? With no external leaks whatsoever. Ridiculous!

    I wish the Chevy Customer Service person on here would explain this because I can't find in the owners manual anywhere that it should consume a quart of oil every 1k miles.
  • manda29manda29 Member Posts: 6
    I had my 2010 Equinox at the dealership this weekend to install the "official update", and it did take care of the recurring noise upon acceleration, but there is still a rattling noise! It is especially loud with the a/c unit is running, doesn’t matter what speed. I live in the south so I’ve already had my a/c running, I can really hear it when the vehicle is stopped? Is anyone else experiencing this? I just have a hard time believing a new vehicle should sound like this, right?!? :confuse: :lemon:
  • roadrunner63roadrunner63 Member Posts: 3
    From my experience with this oil burning issue (consumption test, etc.), the dip stick reflects approximately 1 quart - what I mean is that on the dip stick from the top crosshatched box to the bottom crosshatched box represents about a quart of oil. If it goes below the dip stick (nothing on dip stick) then you have consumed more than a quart and you cannot tell from the dip stick how much more than a quart has been consumed. You may have a similar problem to what I am experiencing.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    ...says that oil usage of one quart per 1000 miles is within spec..

    Personally, I'd be alarmed if my vehicle used that much.... but, that isn't the dealership's opinion... .it comes straight from Chevy (or Honda, or BMW, etc, etc).

    regards,
    kyfdx

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