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Mitsubishi Endeavor Maintenance and Repair

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  • johnmhartejohnmharte Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    Well, the plug and drain method has held for the past few hours. We'll see how it does on some hwy miles/bumps/ect...

    I've uploaded new photos and a final video. It shows what I used to plug the original A/C drain plug from the inside and how the new drain tube is working. For now of course...

    The final Video: New Drain Pipe - In Action
  • I do the mod today .... hope it works ok with my LS Endeavor. Its yours still holding strong?
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    It's holding up well.

    I'm putting the full carpet back in today. I'll do a very through check then looking for any pools but when I've been looking, no streams, leaks, ect... all dry...and that lovely smell of water/musk is gone from the car...so doing well.

    I was surprise how fast the rust started to form at the top corner of the floor board. I don't think a few months of that leak would be good... :sick:

    Plugging from the inside was the key:
    image

    image

    What it looks like before installing the new drain tube... water flowing out of the new grommet.
    image
  • I do the mod but the water still go out at the part that first start to come in . Is the place were you put the expanded foam that later you cut out. The drain tube is at the same hight you did yours and everything as you posted. What can I do on this matter. I also cut the rubber ad foam that is around that tinny OEM drain piece on crap tube.
  • The key is plugging the original OEM drain hole from the inside.

    The expanded foam is useless. Ignore that hole part. It really isn't needed.

    Plugging the whole from inside using these overflow caps from advanced auto is what I did to stop flow from the original OEM hole.

    See the image above of the black plug that looks like a rubber bullet.
    It's from this kit of overflow/bypass caps at any auto store.
    image

    I used this hanger to push it into the OEM hole, from the inside of the A/C box, using the hole you drill in the side.

    image

    Does that help? Plug from the inside, not using the foam around the outside. The foam round the outside didn't work for me and it wasn't' working for the dealer here in upstate SC.
  • I manage to do everything you post on earlier description. I put a smaller end cap rubber bullet but pass throw the other side of the end of the drainage. On the information you mention the package you show say assortments bypass caps. Witch one (diameter) on your knowledge is the one you used to insert on the hole of the evaporator so I can do the same and it was easy to insert and to pull the hanger out ? Thanks for everything.
  • I used a 3/8 inch end cap. At that size it was hard to get it into the oem hole. It was bigger than the hole diameter.

    I liked that for exactly what happend to you, I didn't want it to go all the way through. I wanted to have the option to pull it back out if it didn't work.
  • Thanks for the reply... So I'll try to insert the 3/8 one on a tip manner to experiment as you did. Another thing did you cut the carpet side of the driver or did you take that hole carpet apart (the big one piece) to drive the car and see if the mod hold dry?
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I actually cut the carpet it was just too cumbersome having it in the way or peeled back. So, under the seat, where the floor vent comes up... you can just snip that little 10-12 inch section there... and then the 6-8in section going to the center console. That way, when the front carpet goes in, it will still be bolted down by the seat and the cut is very small where visible.

    Here's where I cut...in photo form...
    image

    Keep in mind, I took out the one screw in the center console to release the plastic there a little more. Once the carpet was out, I took out the styrofoam and floor vent pieces. There are also foam pieces behind the brake pedal that can come out too. The main firewall foam however, you can't take out. It goes up way to high. You'll see what I mean when the carpet is completely out. That firewall foam goes all the way behind the dash, to the windshield as one large piece. Mine was very wet at the bottom of that large piece. The only way I could dry it out was with the shammy/cloth to absorb the water... the foam just soaked it up like a sponge. Then I came back with a hair dryer (heat gun too much..) to dry it out more... Here in SC it's been in the 100* range too... so cracking the windows at that heat also helps dry out the floor...
  • Men I think that finally nail this problem. I insert the 3/8 end-cap on the main drain and the water as force to go to the new drain... and men it feel nice to have that water out were it belongs. Your help is priceless to me and have a new friend on Riverview FL . I will report on the events prior the road test.
  • Fantastic.

    I've been happy with ours. Today I sat in a parking lot for 20 minutes waiting on my wife. That was a great test... still flowing great.

    So, tonight I'll put the front carpet piece back in. Glad to hear it's repeatable... on at least two Mitsu's...
  • Just put the carpet back in.
    I checked everywhere, all dry. Working as planned.

    Now that it's been in for a bit... time to recap.

    If I had to start all over. I would
    - Just drill the hole and plug from the inside at the start. Saves time...
    - Instead of using just one long tube for the new drain. Get two pieces and form a 90* right angle down to new drain hole location. I think the right angle would make putting back the carpet easier...and allows you to put the new floor hole back further than I did... that way there is more clearance for the carpet. I had to trim the carpet just bit to allow for the tube.

    That's it... I'm signing off. I'll peak if more posts come... have fun.. JH
  • This forum seems very helpful but im having a hard time understanding some stuff.

    My husband recently got me a 2004 mitsubishi endeavor and after a couple of days i noticed the bottom of my pants were always wet after driving. I noticed the drivers side floor was soaked and googled it and came across loads of forums saying how expensive it is to get it fixed. My husband would like to fix it and we just tried checking it out but are totally confused.

    I see the pictures where there has been a hole drilled and a new line has been put in but where does it go from and to?

    Can someone please do a step by step on how to do it? I would really appreciate it.

    Thank you
  • Hi , I'm elnene92003 and john's apprentice here. I manage to do EVERYTHING that john and the pics he took to the same endeavor that my wife have. If your husband study every pic is a no error procedure . Just tell him (your husband) to pull out all the front carpet till the driver sit ( have to remove the sit). Then the hole foam thing that is on the floor board. Drill a hole on the evap pan and place a rubber end-cap (3/8) and insert to the OEM drain hole of the evap with a metal rod (clothing rod) then go to a HOME DEPOT and buy a hose and fitting to seal the hole you drill on the evap. Then drill a hole to the floor vertical to the hole you drill on the evap and I seal that with bathroom silicone beacuse I dill it to fit perfect with no air or heat entry to the driving area and that's IT. Have been waterless on my driver floor for over a month and a half . The dealer quote me an $650 fix plus tax that they still waiting for me by now !!!!!! Thanks to John.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I think the last two pages of this discussion really detail the steps pretty well. elnene has now put it into a step by step thread, I appreciate that. ;)

    I would say the order is this:
    (prep work)
    Disconnect battery, remove the driver's seat. Remove the carpet from the drivers's side. You might be able to avoid this but I don't see how. Removing the seat is pretty easy, 4 bolts and 3 seat electrical connectors.
    image
    I cut the carpet into two sections, a front and back where those lines are.
    I would suggest doing this.

    1) Drill the hole and clean out any debris. Follow this PDF
    TSB 09-55-002

    2) Do not seal up the hole as the TSB says to do.

    3) Part's you'll need.
    Go to HomeDepot/Lowes, get 3/8 inch plastic/PVC/Viynal Tube
    3/8 in tube example

    Get a grommet (x2) for the tube. Grommet for Tube

    Get the bypass cap that will seal the original OEM Hole
    ByPass Cap Assortment, 3/8 cap works well

    4) now that you have all the parts. Get coat hanger, insert the cap.
    image

    5) now that the hole from Mitsu factory is closed. Insert your grommet on the A/C condenser box, aka the some box you have the hole drilled into...
    image

    6) Now, you need to pick the bottom part of the drain, aka where the tube will go though the Mitsu's floor to drain. I have a 2WD endeavor. So my center "hump" that runs to the rear wheels was empty of any drive train components. That's where I drilled my bottom hole of the tube to exit the car. This picture shows where I drilled the bottom exit hole:
    image

    7) Insert your grommets into the holes and then insert the tube into each. Now, this is where you can get creative if you want. You could change up the type of tube... use one that isn't strait and flexible. You could use a hard PVC that does a 90* bend and goes strait down to the floor. I didn't do that b/c I wasn't sure this was going to work. ;)

    8) Optional: you could now seal the tube to grommet connection with silicone caulk. I didn't... but you could.

    9) That's about it. Done...

    At this point I left the carpet out. I put my seat back in with no carpet, none of the floor parts in place...and drove it for a week just to see if it would leak again. It hasn't leaked at all since and it's dumping a ton of water out of the A/C condenser box... which is great! I've done a trip to Atlanta (3hrs) and a couple of 2 hour round trips...it's doing well.

    I would really suggest driving it around without the floor in for a bit. Only b/c there is most likely water all under your carpets...it flowed into the back of our endeavor. So, when I would brake all the water that had made it to the back came flooding to the front driver's footwell. The "sloshing" noise that people say they hear. I don't think it's from the A/C or dahs area. In my case it was the water flowing from the back to the front when pressed the brakes hard or took a sharp turn.
  • britishcupcakebritishcupcake Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    Thank you so much. Im going to show my husband this and hopefully he can do it now. When we looked at it all last weekend i pulled the carpet up with the seat still in and lifted the foam as much as i could and couldnt believe how much water was under there. I dried up as much of it as i could and left the doors open all day to let it dry out as it was starting to stink. I have left the AC off since then and the carpet seems to be dry for now. Hoepfully i can get it fixed soon.

    Thanks for your help!
  • What have you accomplish on the issue of the water on the inside of the endeavor ..... give an update?
  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Posts: 4
    edited September 2011
    Nice job. I have same MITSUBISHI AC DRAIN TUBE issue on an 04 endeavor. I was able to thread a 3ft 1/4" tube all the way through the drain into the engine compartment. I put 1/8" npt hose barb on the 1/4 hose inside of the drain pan. this expands the end of the tube to around 5/16". which i suspect is the drain hole diamter as the 1/4" OD tube can go all the way throgh. I also put a small bead of tank putty around the end of the hose barb. This could work but I suspect that all the effort could be wasted and may end up just drilling the hole in the floor. I will let you know how it works.
  • If you can put some picture of the final product to see your work ....... Thanks
  • After several false starts I have finally finished. This is what I did:

    1... Threaded 4' of 1/4 OD polyethylene tubing over stiff coat hanger

    2... Put a rounded loop on end of the cpat hanger that is going throught the hole.

    3... Threaded the 75% of the length of coat hanger and tube through the hole and into the engine compartment. This takes about 5 minutes of effort as you have pull the assembly back and curve it slightly as it goes in. What you want it the hose/hanger to have slight upward bend as it comes through the hole into the engine compartment.

    (ATTENTION: IT CAN GO ALL THE WAY IN AND NOT COME OUT ON IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THIS IS A RESULT OF IT FOLLOWING THE INTERNAL FRAME, JUST TRY AGAIN WITH DIFFERENT BEND)

    4... go under the car and gentley ucrimp the loop in the running end of the coat hanger

    5... go back into driver side foot well and gentley pull the coat hanger through the tube, leaving tube inplace

    6... insert 1/8" OD hose barb to hose barb coupling into the end of the hose that pulled the coat hanger through

    7... get your epoxy putty that is used for radiator repair and cut off a pinky finger tip size lump and mix it till it gets gray. roll it out into a littel putty snake and wrap around the end of the tube where it connects to the hose barb

    8... push the whole assembly into the evap drain pan, make sure to take very special care not to let the putty come off the hose barb

    9... press the hose/barb/putty assembly into the evap drain hole.

    10... go under car and pull the hose gently from where it exits the hole in the engine compartment fire wall. make sure to pull only lightly so that you can feel it seat in the drain pan

    11... go back to driver side foot well and insert fiber into drain pan and push assembly into the drain hole pay special attention to make sure the epoxy putty seats all around the sides of the hose barb while making sure the actualy hole that water will drain into stays free of putty.

    12... zip tie the hose to keep it away from the engine and heat

    13.. let sit for 2 hours and test...

    will post picture when i figure out how to on this website... if I had time to do one thing different it would be to use a heat resistant tubing, like something you would find in an automobile store... hopefully in this case my haste didnt make waste">
  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Posts: 4
    edited October 2011
    I posted a video of the fix on YOUTUBE, I hope this helps.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-wTJQDol-U
  • I have a mitsubishi endeavor 2006. 95,000 miles. the brake light came on for no reason and my brakes are not making any noises and appear to be working just fine. has this happened to anyone else? i also have the tire pressure light and service engine soon light that go on and off intermittently. is the brake light one of those issues as well?
  • ncattncatt Posts: 3
    Had to have the front end driver side wheel bearing done as well - another major expense - and still the wheel sensor light intermittitly flashing - 106,000km now on this 2005 model
  • ncattncatt Posts: 3
    Brake light doesn't have anything to do with other lights on. Get the sensor light fixed fast before your warranty runs out - they are going to do a diagnositic test on it and say nothing wrong - and it will be ok for a few days (off) and you will think all ok - but it will go on again - This happened to me for over 2 years! so make sure you get them to do it now - I'm sure this is a glitch that is occuring alot - and they don't want to spend the $ to recall to fix these.
  • maxx21maxx21 Posts: 1
    I recently got my 04 Endeavor LS about 2 weeks ago, "new to me" at 127K and it runs like new, I kid you not, so the previous owners took wonderful care of it. I plan to trade the care in later on, however, I'm not here to talk about that.

    1) I accidentally changed to Neutral when I was going up hill and didn't realize this until I pressed on the gas... and I think my car feels differently now. Any fix to this? Like, when I got the car, I wouldn't have to press much on the gas and the car would go? I don't know if that makes any sense.

    2) Do icons for P, R, D, N, +, - light up around the auto-clutch? Because it doesn't on mine?

    Thank You :confuse:
  • waltncwaltnc Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Endeavor that I am having the same water leaking problem with that many others have described. I live in Raleigh,NC and would be interested in talking with someone from this area that could steer me toward some help in getting the problem resolved.
  • dria24dria24 Posts: 32
    I have a Mitsubishi endeavor limited 4dr, recently the sunroof leaks water when i go thru the car wash and when it rains. I opened the sunroof and looked around and cleared any debris from the areas. I'm female and short but want to know what can be done. I was told by a friend that the sunroof has drainage ducts? if so where help .
    much thanks
  • jwiz1jwiz1 Posts: 8
    I had the same thing happen this summer. Got a bit damp in a car wash. The problem was that an adjusting screw for the sunroof mechanism came loose and was creating a small opening in rubber gasket around the sunroof when the sunroff was closed. A few turns of a screw driver and it was fixed.
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