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Jeep Wrangler Modifications



  • Thanks for weighing in Tom. Because of guys like you and Paul I've felt more and more comfortable ripping things off my jeep and adding products I feel better about. I will most likely put on new wheels as well, but I will check out these spacers you are talking about. I am intrigued by the "controversy"... What could be so controversial about them? Do they break easily? Are they expensive?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I've posted a reply, along with a changed title to help future searching, over in the newly re-opened Jeep Wrangler.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Hey, you ain't gonna blame us for ripping into your jeep. :)

    It's the FEVER! :)

    I've been very comfortable with my spacers. I don't see them as any different than a 4.25" backspaced wheel. I've checked the lugnut torque several times and EVERY time, it has been set at what I torqued them to when I last installed them (after a brake job). They've been VERY solid.

    Now that said, working on the brakes with wheel spacers DOES mean I have to remove 2 things to get to the brake drums or rotors. Not really a big deal to me as I have a warm garage I can work in during the winter and a cool garage during the summer (with a fan). :)

    The controversy about wheel spacers, as Mac has mentioned in another thread, is that older spacers were just that - a spacer - that fit on the factory lugs. As a result, you had less thread into the lug nuts holding the wheel on. These Spidertrax spacers that I use attach to the factory lugs. However, they also have lugs of their own to which the wheel actually attaches. You can see in this pic the spacer on with the factory lugs, and 5 separate lugs are available for the wheel to be installed.


    Notice, too, that there is that little lip on the spacers. That helps ensure you have the wheel mounted properly as well. Nice touch. The only 'mod' I had to do to install these spacers was to remove a c-clip that held the brake drum on. It would have led to the spacers not being totally flush and created a wobble. The 5 lugnuts hold it and the drum on pretty well. :)

  • have 6 cyl in my 87 wrangler want 2 put a 350 chevy do i need a adapator for trans
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Most likely.

    Check out Advanced Adapters. If anybody makes an adapter for engine/tranny, AA is the best one out there.

  • pkearpkear Posts: 26
    I have not yet but I have been looking at it. I would think it would be a simple as dropping a carpeted cut out sheet of plywood with legs in place. I also think having the top off (mines a hard top) would facilitate installation. My problem is on my 2007 with the rear subwofer I have yet to decide If I want to lose quality by muffling the sound or removing the speaker. I saw online that bestop (I think) has one for the 2007 designed with a cut out for the speaker but I still bet you lose sound quality. Maybe I will wait for them to make a basket type or better yet head to my uncle's with some steel tubing and expanded metal so I can make one using his pipe benders. Whatever I decide if I make one I will take pictures and do a step by step or at least as good as I can.
  • broombroom Posts: 6
    I am waiting to receive a 2007 Rubicon 2 door that I ordered. I want to put 35 inch tires on it for off road use and switch to the stock ones when taking road trips. I will buy new wheels with very little back spacing. I don't want to drop thousands into a suspension lift. I thought of doing a combination of a spring spacer lift and a small body lift. Does anyone have experience with a spring spacer style lift? Does it change steering and suspension angles to the point that additional parts need to be purchased to correct any changes? I know I will need to get an alignment after the installation, but I wondered if anyone else had experience re. road handling, drive shaft angles, caster angle, sway bar extensions, pitman arm, etc.? I'm looking at a 2 inch puck style lift. Thanks for any advise.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    To fit 35's you won't need much lift on the new JK's. A simple budget boost should work just fine.

    ANY suspension lift, whether it is with springs/coils or spacers, will affect steering geometry. The amount of affect is based upon lift size. A 2" lift shouldn't affect it enough to matter. Your driveline angles will change a bit, but with the new JK's, I don't know if it would be significant enough to induce vibrations. If it is a 4door, probably not.

    Sway bar angles will be changed unless you have aftermarket swaybar links.

  • broombroom Posts: 6
    Paul, Thanks for the info. I think I will install a spring spacer lift kit. If my ride is affected too much, I can buy longer sway bar arms, adjustable track bars, etc. Hopefully, like you mentioned, a 2 inch kit won't require other mods. By the way, the new Rubicon is unstoppable with it's low low range, disconnecting sway bar, and electronic lockers front and rear. With a small lift and 35 inch mud tires, the only thing holding it back should be my unwillingness to get my new Jeep scratched or dented. -Jim
  • boobahboobah Posts: 18
    HELP!!!!!I have an 87 Wrangler, 6 cylinder, which blew the engine 3/9/07! It's in the shop, and I cannot locate a good condition engine for replacement! I'm in Northern,NJ, and am really desperate! Please e-mail
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Consider alternatives...

    V8 comes to mind but you'll need wiring changes for it. :)

    Good luck finding a good donor. Perhaps even a newer 4.0 inline 6.

  • brandontbrandont Posts: 1
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The generally accepted limit is 31x10.5" tires. Any wider and you'll rub at full turn. Any taller and you rub the fenders and flares when you hit a big bump/speedbump.

    Also, please turn off your caps. We don't like being yelled at.

  • I just purchased a 1994 Wrangler - beautiful condition but has what appears to be the standard steel wheels with 225X15 tires in like new shape. I wanted aluminum wheels but not sure if wheels from later model Wranglers fit or what wheel/tire combo would be best. - mostly lite off road and street use! I dont want to lift it but want a fuller look.

    Also anyone know of a good shop in northern NJ area that specializes in jeep parts etc.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Standard pattern is 5x4.5 and the TJ and YJ share the that measurement IIRC, so newer wheels should work. Assuming a stock height, I THINK you can put 31" tires on a YJ, but 30's WILL fit. Mud Terrains will look more aggressive and be louder.

  • thanks for the info.. If I use 8 inch wide rims will that have any adverse side effects such as rubbing or wearing components out.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Possibly. It is more a function of tire width and the backspacing of wheels, sometimes called offset. For example, my stock Canyon wheels have 5.5" of BS. With my 33x12.5" tires, at full turn, I would really rub the frame. However, adding some SpiderTrax wheel spacers, I changed the backspacing to 4.25" so the wheels effectively stick out more. Rubbing at full turn is no longer an issue.

  • Thanks again..appreciate all the info..I think I've got an idea on how to approach it now.

  • I've got a 2005 TJ Unlimited with a hard top, 31" tires and rubicon stock flares. I get some rub when I hit bumps and a lot of rub when enjoying the offroad experience. I also get a little lowrider effect as the hard top weight added to any cargo sinks the back end.
    I look to hit the trail on occasion, but I doubt I'll be doing any crawling and I drive alot.
    So I believe a lift is in order and I've seen kits range from $500-$3000. I was thinking about a 4". Who do you folks recommend? I've read that OME puts together a good riding package as I do drive my Jeep daily... my friend says Rancho is a great package, put he doesn't own one.

    Whaddia say jeep owners?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd personally avoid Rancho. Perhaps for pickups they're okay, but I don't know ANYBODY running a Rancho who likes it.

    OME sounds like a GREAT way to go, but I AM biased. :) Rubicon Express or Rusty's Offroad make good lifts too.

    I'd personally stick to a 3" suspension lift and make up the difference with a 1" BL. The smaller suspension lift affects steering geometries much less than a 4". At 4" you have to start worrying about other things.

    The OME kits from DPG Offroad range from a basic spring/shock type setup to one that include the body and motor lifts, adjustable trackbars for the axle centering after the lift, and adjustable control arms. Prices go from around 700 I think and up, depending on which you want. Dirk will be HAPPY to work with you and determine EXACTLY what you need and he won't sell ya stuff you don't.

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